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JOURNAL 



EXPLORING TOTJK 

BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS 



UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE 



A. B. C. F. M. 



CONTAINING 



A DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOGRAPHY, GEOLOGY, CLIMATE, PRO- 
DUCTIONS OF THE COUNTRY, AND THE NUMBERS, MAN- 
NERS, AND CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES : 



MAP OF OREGON TERRITORY. 



BY BEY. SAMUEL PARKER, A, OT. 



FOURTH EDITION 



ITHACA, N. Y. 



ANDRUS, WOODRUFF, & GAUNTLETT. 

BOSTON : CROCKER & BREWSTER.— NEW YORK : HUNTINGTON & SAVAGE 

ROBINSON, PRATT, & CO.— PHILADELPHIA : THOMAS, COWPER- 

THWAIT, & CO. — LONDON : WILEY & PUTNAM. 

1844. 



OiiiiilGiUH imiBifaid 







F%o 



•fzz*. 



APR 27 J917 



Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1838, by 
Samuel Parker, in the Clerk's office of the District Court ^©f the 
Northern District of New York. 



ANDRUS, WOODRUFF, & GAUNTLETT, PRINTERS, ITHACA. 




RECOMMENDATIONS. 

FROM BENJ. SILLIMAN, LL. D., PROFESSOR OF CHEMISTRY, GEOLOGY, &G., 
YALE COLLEGE. 

I have perused with much satisfaction and instruction, the Rev. 
Samuel Parker's Tour beyond the Rocky Mountains, and have given 
copies of it to scientific friends in Europe, on account of the valuable 
geological facts which it contains. B. SILLIMAN. 

Yale College, Oct. 31st, 1843. 



"This is one of the most authentic and interesting accounts we 
have of the country of Oregon, or waters of the Columbia, and of the 
character of the Indian tribes of that savage country. The author 
brings to the subject all the knowledge, industry, candor, and piety 
becoming his mission and pretensions." — Extract from CHANCEL- 
LOR KENT'S Coarse of Reading, famished at the request of th* 
New York Mercantile Library Association, 



FROM II. HUMPHREY, D. D., PRESIDENT OF AMHERST COLLEGE'. 

I have read Mr. Parker's Exploring Tour beyond the Rocky Moun- 
tains, with uncommon interest. It embodies a great mass of facts and 
many valuable reflections, which cannot fail of making it highly in- 
structive as well as entertaining to every class of readers. I am glad 
to learn that a second edition has been so soon called for. It is not a 
book of lofty pretensions, but of unadorned verity and high intrinsic 
merit. The friends of the missionary cause, and of the aboriginal 
tribes beyond the mountains, who have not yet seen this volume, have 
a rich reversion before them. H. HUMPHREY. 



FROM REV. EDWARD HITCHCOCK, A. M., PROFESSOR OF CHEMISTRY AND 
NATURAL HISTORY, AMHERST COLLEGE. 

I am happ}' to concur in the above views respecting the Exploring 
Tour, of Mr. Parker. • EDWARD HITCHCOCK. 



IV RECOMMENDATIONS. 

FROM NOAH WEBSTER, IX. D. 

New Haven, Nov. 12th, 1839. 
Dear Sir, 

I have read the aecount of your journey over the Rocky Mountains 
to the Pacific, with much satisfaction. It contains much valuable in- 
formation respecting a part of our continent, which is imperfectly ex- 
plored. I hope the publication of the book will amply reward your 
labors. N. WEBSTER. 



44 This is a work of extraordinary merit, and furnishes rich food 
alike to the man of science and the unlearned. It is one of the most 
deeply interesting volumes that has ever issued from the American 
press ; inasmuch as it presents, in a plain and unaffected style, stores 
of knowledge concerning a portion of our country which heretofore 
has been but partially explored. This is a volume which commends 
itself to the careful perusal of men of every class, and, so marvellous 
are its truths, that it needs but the merit of being a work of fiction to 
gain for it universal circulation." — Missionary Herald, Cincinnati. 



44 Mr. Parker's observations on the geology and geography of the 
country through which he passed, are alone richly worth twice the cost 
of his volume. To the friends of the unfortunate Red Man his work 
is a noble weapon ; to the advocates of Foreign Missions an unanswer- 
able evidence of their necessity and value. It is illustrated by a new 
map from actual observation of the territory of the United States west 
of the limits of Missouri."— New Yorker, May 19, 1838. 



Acknowledgements are due to numerous editors of periodicals and 
papers who have given the work a favorable notice. 



m 



PREFACE. 



In presenting to the public the Journal of a Tour beyond 
the Rocky Mountains, the only apology, necessary to offer, 
is the hope of promoting a more extensive and particular 
knowledge, than has hitherto been furnished, of the condi- 
tion of that important section of our country. The author's 
mode of traveling furnished many opportunities for obser- 
vation, being conducted with leisure, through one of the 
most interesting portions of the wide territories of the west. 
It is believed that no defects exist in the work, irrecon- 
cilable with a strict adherence to facts, and this scrupu- 
lous regard to truth is the principal merit claimed for the 
volume. The most of what is narrated came under the 
author's personal observation, and whatever is stated which 
did not, was obtained from gentlemen connected with the 
Hudson Bay Company, whose reputation for honesty and 
candor, as well as capability of judging intelligently, is well 
established. This source of information was made avail- 
able by collecting and comparing the statements of differ- 
ent individuals, retaining what corresponded with his own 
observation, or was well supported by evidence. The be- 
lief is cherished, that the following work contains a greater 

2 



VI PREFACE. 

amount of statistical information in regard to the country, 
and important facts, than is to be found in any production 
furnished by the press. Having gone over a greater ex- 
tent of territory than any traveler who had preceded, and 
with the express object of exploring the condition of the 
aboriginal population, this position cannot be considered as 
assumed. Messrs. Lewis and Clarke passed the Rocky 
Mountains under a governmental appointment to explore 
the country, more than thirty years since, and their pub- 
lished narrative carries with it evidence of candor and in- 
telligence, and contains much valuable information ; yet 
their opportunities for observation were somewhat limited. 
They passed over the great chain of mountains, from the 
head waters of the Missouri, between the 45° and 46° of 
north latitude, and came upon the head waters of the Coos- 
coots-kee, and followed that river to its junction with the 
Lewis or Snake river, and then proceeded by water to the 
Pacific ocean at the mouth of the Columbia river; wintered 
upon the south side of the bay, and early the following 
spring returned to the mountains by the same route which 
they pursued on their outward journey. All other persons 
who have published any history of their travels beyond the 
mountains, were persons engaged in the fur trade, and many 
of their observations upon different sections of the country 
are just, but they are deficient in statistical information, 
and their productions are mostly confined to personal ad- 



PREFACE. Vll 

ventures, anecdotes of battles with Blackfeet or Crow In- 
dians, starvation, and hair-breadth escapes. Justice to the 
public requires fidelity in the historian and traveler. It is 
not their business to originate facts, but to record them. The 
license giyen to poets, or writers of romance, cannot be 
tolerated here, and no flights of a lively imagination, or 
graphic powers in relating passing occurrences, can atone 
for impressions which are not in accordance with truth. 

While it Was a leading object to become acquainted with 
the situation of the remote Indian tribes, and their disposi- 
tion in regard to teachers of Christianity, yet a careful at- 
tention was given to the geography of the country, with its 
productions; the climate and seasons, animals, lakes, rivers, 
and smaller fountains ; forests and prairies, mountains and 
valleys, its mineral and geological structure, and all the va- 
rious aspects of its physical condition. The country here 
described is sui generis : every thing is formed on a large 
scale. Its lofty and perpetual snow-topped mountains rising 
20,000 feet or more above the ocean, the trees of the forest, 
the widely extended prairies, plants of enormous growth, and 
the results of volcanic agency which are met with in almost 
every direction, render the whole an ever increasing scene 
of interest to the traveler ; and if any statements appear 
large, it is because the facts are so in themselves. 

It has been an object in writing this volume to condense 
as much as possible the amount of information, instead of 



Vlll PREFACE. 

unnecessarily extending it, and the hope is indulged, that 
while these facts are perused, the desire may be awakened, 
if it do not already exist, to benefit the original, the rightful 
owners, and with the exception of a few thousand fur tra- 
ders scattered in every direction over this territory, the sole 
occupants of this wide field of uncultivated nature. 

The map which accompanies the work, has been prepared 
with much labor and care ; and though some minute parts 
are omitted, it will be found far more accurate than any 
which has before been published. In addition to my own 
surveys, I have availed myself of those of gentlemen con- 
nected with the Hudson Bay Company, in parts which I did 
not visit, and am especially indebted to Vancouver, and the 
labors of other explorers for much that I have delineated of 
the North-West coast of the Pacific ocean, and the Islands. 



PREFACE TO THE FOURTH EDITION. 



The interest the public have taken in this work, evinced 
by the many highly commendatory reviews and notices, 
which have appeared in numerous periodicals, religious, sci- 
entific, and political, both in this country and in Europe, 
together with the sale of the former editions, has influenced 
the author to publish a fourth edition. Many persons, whose 
judgment, extensive knowledge, and piety, entitle them to= 
be held in high estimation, have encouraged him to believe 
that this work has been interesting to men of science, useful 
in advancing general knowledge, and promoting the spirit 
of missions, and what is not the least to be valued, in awa- 
kening a sympathy for the long neglected Indians of Oregon,, 

As it was an object in preparing the first edition to com- 
press as great an amount of information as possible in the 
compass of a duodecemo volume, so in this — the same object 
has been pursued. Since the publication of the first edi- 
tion, the whole work has been attentively revised, corrected, 
and enlarged. It is hoped that it will contribute its influ- 
ence, however small it may be, in aiding the cause of hu- 
man welfare. I shall be pardoned if I assert the senti- 
ment, that the acquisition of all knowledge should be made 

2* 



X PREFACE TO "THE FOURTH EDITION. 

subservient to this important use, and that the gold from 
any region, if it cannot be refined in this crucible, is of 
no real value, and whatever will not directly or indirect- 
ly, nearly or remotely, concur in this great end, must at 
length endure the ultimate fate of that " Imowledge which 
shall vanish away." 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

The Tour commenced by way of Buffalo, Erie and Pittsburgh ; 
passage to Cincinnati in the steam-boat Ohioan ; the steam- 
boat takes fire ; Cincinnati ; Falls of the Ohio ; the Ohio River ; 
Ohio and Kentucky ; confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi 
rivers ; Point Girardou ; beautiful appearance of fire on the 
prairie ; St. Genevieve, old custom ; Herculaneum ; gambling 
on board the steam-boats; St. Louis ; Dr. M. Whitman ; Mr. 
Fontenelle 1' 



CHAPTER II. 

Leave St. Louis for Liberty ; passage up the Missouri ; snags ; 
a walk on shore ; Jefferson city ; River scenery ; Steam-boat 
Siam ; Sand bars ; Lexington ; Steam-boat disaster ; Liberty ; 
Navahoe Indians ; ride to Cantonment Leavenworth ; amusing 
provincialisms ; Caravan commence their journey ; first en- 
campment ; Iowa Indians ; Blacksnake hills ; Nodaway river ; 
Elk; cross the Neshnabotana; Rich soil ; rapid rise of the north 
branch of Neshnabotana ; mode of living ; mounds of the west ; 
eross the Missouri ; Bellevue : Missionaries. . . .26 



CHAPTER III. 

Continuance at Council Bluffs ; interesting scenery ; Indian curi- 
osity ; information obtained about several Indian tribes ; Spas- 
modic Cholera ; an Indian Chief killed ; leave Bellevue for the 
Black Hills ; storm of rain ; heavy thunder storm ; Elkhorn 
river, the country around ; Loups Fork of the Platte ; manner 
of encamping ; Big Ax, Pawnee Chief; Indian feasting ; fourth 
of July ; Messrs. Dunbar and Allis ; thunder storm ; Indian 
Ornaments ; effects of drunkenness ; bite of a rattle-snake ; buf- 



Xll CONTENTS. 

falo seen ; prairie horse-fly ; forks of the Platte ; want of wood ; 
swiftness of antelopes; climate; thousands of buffalo ; badgers; 
prairie dog ; interesting bluffs ; old castle ; the chimney, or bea- 
con ; an alarm ; Ogallallah Indians, their lodges ; Black Hills. 43 



CHAPTER IV. 

Black Hills ; day of indulgence ; buffalo dance ; the desire of In- 
dians for instruction ; met the chiefs in council ; re-commenced 
our journey for rendezvous ; anthracite coal ; species of worm- 
wood ; Red Bute ; traces of grizzly bears ; geology ; Rock In- 
dependence ; Rocky Mountains ; perpetual snow ; valley 
through the mountains ; " thunder spirits" gone ; an alarm ; 
waters of the Colorado. . ..... ... .. 69 



CHAPTER V. 

Arrive at rendezvous ; trappers and hunters; four Indian nations; 
Flatheads and Mez Percds, no reason why so called ; surgical 
operations ; an interview with the Flathead and Nez Perce' 
chiefs ; their anxiety for religious instruction ; return of Doct. 
Whitman ; Shoshones and Utaws ; mountain life. . . 76 



CHAPTER VI. 

Part with my associate ; arrive at head waters of the Columbia ; 
kindness of the Indians ; narrow defile ; geology ;. Jackson's 
Hole ; wild flax ; trappers go out on a hunt ; mountain pros- 
pect ; Trois Tetons ; danger from affrighted buffalo ; Pierre's 
Hole ; Volcanic chasm ; children on horseback ; interesting 
worship with the Indians ; burial of a child ; scarcity of food ; 
a timely supply ; Salmon river ; expected battle ; geological 
observations : scene of mourning. . . . . .87 

CHAPTER VII. 

Salmon river; mineral salt; chimney; forest trees, new species 
of pine ; geology; sulphur lake; a rare animal; new species 
of squirrels and pheasants ; came to the Lewis branch of the Co- 
lumbia ; ferryman; Basaltic formation; fine climate; arrive 
at Walla Walla 115 



CONTENTS. Xlll 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Description of Walla Walla ; the kind treatment of the Indians 
by the Hudson Bay Company ; leave Walla Walla for fort Van. 
couver ; loquacious orator ; rapids ; introduction to the Cayuse 
Indians; morning prospects; long rapids; Volcanic mountains ; 
trial of Indian generosity ; arrival at the falls of the Columbia 
river ; rousing effects of oratory ; La Dalles ; Boston trading 
company ; remarkable subsidence ; Cascades ; Chenooks are 
the Flatheads and Nez Perces ; dangerous rapids ; Indian bu- 
rying places ; Pillar rock ; interesting waterfall ; sea fowl ; 
arrive at Fort Vancouver 131 



CHAPTER IX. 

Description of Fort Vancouver ; departure for Fort George and 
mouth of the Columbia ; mouths of the Multnomah ; Wappatoo 
Island ; May Dacre ; Coffin Rock ; Cowalitz river ; Indian 
friendship ; Pacific ocean ; Gray's bay ; Astoria. . . . 149 



CHAPTER X. 

Description of Fort George ; mouth of the Columbia ; dangerous 
bar ; mountainous coast ; varieties of timber ; good location for 
a missionary station ; continued rains ; dense forests — excur- 
sion in a canoe down the bay ; view of the coast ; disasters at 
the entrance of the Columbia ; ship William and Anne ; ship 
Isabella ; Tonquin ; Japanese junk ; reflections ; water fowl ; 
return to Fort Vancouver ; the regard Indians show the dead ; 
Indian kindness 156 



CHAPTER XI. 

Review of journeyings ; school ; journey up the Willamette ; walk 
upon the pebbly shores ; falls ; settlement on the Willamette ; 
Methodist mission ; epidemic ; voyage down the river ; hospi-, 
tality of Wanaxka ; construction of his house ; Fort William 
on the Wappatoo island — astonishing thirst for ardent spirits ; 
return to Fort Vancouver. . . . . . . .169 



XIV CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XII. 

Services on the Sabbath ; obstacles to the gospel ; discouraging 
case ; manner of spending time ; description of Vancouver ; fur 
and farming establishment; garden productions; lumber; com- 
merce ; peltries ; system of the Hudson Bay Company ; waste 
of life ; hardships of a hunter's life ; their perseverance ; Chris, 
tian principle ; worldly principle. 183 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Indian population; diseases; mortality; attributed to cultivation 
of the soil; Indians destitute of medical science; holidays; 
customs at home ; customs of the Indians ; resemblance to Jew- 
ish customs in punishment; marriage contracts; condition of 
the females ; slavery ; divisions into tribes ; one point of dissim- 
ilarity, language. 192 



CHAPTER XIV. 

The various animals beyond the Mountains. . . . 201 



CHAPTER XV. 

Fish; description of salmon ; salmon fishery ; ornithology ; den- 
drology ; shrubbery ; nutritive roots ; geography ; mountains ; 
valleys ; plains ; forests ; rivers ; soil ; seasons. . . .216 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Character and condition of the Indians ; Indians of the plains ; 
their persons ; dress ; wealth ; habits ; physical character; man- 
ufactures ; their religion ; wars ; vices ; moral disposition ; su- 
perstitions ; medicine men. 232 



CHAPTER XVII. 

The Indians of the lower country. < 248 



CONTENTS. XV 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

Conversation with an intelligent Indian ; meeting with Indians ; 
early and mild season ; La Dalles Indians ; their anxiety to 
receive the gospel ; Nootka humming bird ; number and loca- 
tion of the Indians in the lower country ; Indians of the north ; 
the agitated question ; solitariness. 260 



CHAPTER XIX. 

Departure for the upper country; American hunters; geology at 
the Cascades ; Indian honesty ; escape in a dangerous gale ; 
the Falls a favorable location for a missionary station ; tender 
sympathy ; famished Indians ; arrival at Walla Walla ; inter, 
esting meeting of Indians ; opportunity to give them religious 
instruction ; a walk ; the nutritious quality of prairie grass. . 273 



CHAPTER XX. 

Journey to the Nez Perce country ; funeral of a child ; natural 
scenery ; worship on the Sabbath ; return to Walla Walla — in- 
dustry of the Indians ; battle ground ; practice of smoking ; 
journey to Colvile. 285 



CHAPTER XXI. 

Paloose Indians ; Pavilion river ; extraordinary excavation ; lost 
on the prairie ; Indian principle; Spokcin woods and country ; 
Indian ferry ; Spokein valley ; granite ; volcanic curiosities ; fer- 
tile valley ; worship with the Spokeins ; IVEill river valley ; ar- 
rival at Fort Colvile ; description of the place ; leave Colvile for 
Fort Okanagan ; a mountain of marble ; Grand Could, or old 
bed of the Columbia ; Okanagan described ; Long rapids ; ar- 
rive at Walla Walla. . . 204 



CHAPTER XXII. 

A summary of the Indians of the Upper country ; names of the 
tribes, their locations and numbers ; leave Walla Walla for Fort 



XVI CONTENTS. 



Vancouver ; swift passage down the river ; run the Falls ; Cas- 
cades ; dangerous eddy ; arrive at Vancouver ; steam-boat ex- 
cursion. - . 313 



CHAPTER XXIII. 
Geology. . . .......... 326 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

General remarks ; passage in the steam-ship Beaver down the riv- 
er ; take passage on board the barque Columbia ; detention in 
Chenook bay ; great cave ; Codfish, the first ever taken in this 
bay 347 



CHAPTER XXV. 

Departure for the Sandwich Islands ; Arrival at the Islands ; wor- 
ship in the native church ; description of Oahu ; the Pari ; the 
valley of Manoa ; description of Honolulu ; of Waititi ; hea- 
then temple ; Eva ; Waialua; Keneohe ; mountains ; salt lake; 
natural productions ; animals; government; tea party of the 
royal family ; dinner to the officers of the Peacock and En- 
terprise ; decrease of population ; unfair negotiations ; foreign 
residents ; charity school ; seamen's chapel ; burying place of 
the royal family ; missionary success 353 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

Departure from Oahu in ship Phoenix for the United States ; call 
at the Society Islands ; brief description of Tahiti and Eimeo; 
re-commence our voyage ; water spout ; severe gales of wind ; 
Magellanic clouds ; Martin Vass Island ; Trinidad ; arrival at 
New London. 372 



PARKER'S TOUR. 



CHAPTER I. 



The Tour commenced by way of Buffalo^ Erie and-Pittsburgh — pas- 
sage to Cincinnati in the steam-boat Ohioan — the steam-boat takes 
fire— Cincinnati— Falls of the Ohio — the Ohio River — Ohio and 
Kentucky — confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers — Point 
Girardou — beautiful appearance of fire on the prairie— St. Gene- 
vieve, old custom — Herculaneum — gambling on board the steam- 
boats — St. Louis — Dr. M. Whitman — Mr. Tontenelle. 

The wide extent of country beyond the Mississippi and 
the Rocky Mountains, with its inhabitants and physical con- 
dition, has been a subject of interesting enquiry for the last 
thirty years. Many things, relating to the possession of 
the country, its future probable importance in a political 
view, its population and trade, have occupied much atten- 
tion. The Christian public have not been inattentive to the 
interests, moral and religious, of those whom the God of 
providence has placed in these remote regions, and who are 
without the blessings of civilization and Christianity. The 
American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions ap- 
pointed an exploring mission to ascertain by personal obser- 
vation, the condition of the country, and the character of the 
Indian nations and tribes, and the facilities for introducing 
the gospel and civilization among them. 



18 PITTSBURGH. 

That difficulties and dangers would be incident to a jour- 
ney through a country of such extent, uninhabited except 
by wandering bands of Indians, where no provisions could 
be obtained besides uncertain game, could not be doubted. 
It was not a consciousness of undaunted courage, or indif- 
ference to suffering, or the love of romance, which fixed my 
purpose ; but it was the importance of the object. Although 
it was painful to bid adieu to family and friends, unapprised 
of the events of the future, yet committing all to the gui- 
dance and protection of an all-wise Providence, the enter- 
prise was undertaken without reluctance, on the 14th of 
March, 1835. Pursuing the journey by the way of Buffalo 
and Erie, I arrived at Pittsburgh on the twenty-fifth. The 
intervening distance to St. Louis, through the great valley 
of the west, had lost much of its novelty, as I had previously 
passed over it, and .long since had it ceased to excite that de- 
gree of interest in the community, with which it was regard- 
ed before the numerous descriptions of the tourist and trav- 
eler had rendered its general features familiar. Only a 
passing notice, therefore, will be given. 

Leaving Pittsburgh, which, from "its multiplied manufac- 
tories, may be styled the Birmingham of America, I took 
passage in the steam-boat Ohioan, for Cincinnati, four hun- 
dred and fifty miles distant, by the river. The scenery of 
the Ohio, as it pursues its meandering course to the Missis- 
sippi, presents a most beautiful variety of forests, and culti- 
vated fields, and flourishing villages. On the 28th, we ar- 
rived at Cincinnati. The steam-boat on that day was disco- 
vered to be on fire in the hold, in which a large quantity of 
combustible goods were deposited. This created great alarm. 
A very strong head wind blew the fire from the furnace down 
the hatchway, which, after removing some goods, had been 



CINCINNATI* 19 

carelessly left -open. The captain immediately rounded the 
boat to the shore, and no sooner was it gained, than there 
was a general rush for safety. Some of the passengers 
threw out their baggage, and many leaped from the upper 
deck to the land. The fire, however, was subdued, and with 
considerable difficulty we disengaged the boat from its 
grounded position, and from the trees among which it was 
entangled, and we were again under way. 

Cincinnati is. a large city for a country so new, and from 
its mature appearance would hardly be thought to have 
been the growth of only half a century. Its population, 
composed of emigrants from New England, the middle, and 
some of the southern states, and from various parts of Eu- 
rope, is consequently not very homogeneous in its character. 
Its schools and institutions of literature, promise much for 
the great interests of science and religion in this interesting 
section of our growing country. 

Here I exchanged my situation on board the Ohioan, for 
the Chien, Captain Reynolds, for St. Louis, which, by water 
is six hundred and ninety miles from Cincinnati. . On the 
3,0th, we passed Louisville, near, whleh.are the. fells of the 
Ohio, twenty-two .feet in height, and 1 passable by boats only 
in high water, about two months in the year. To save the 
expense and, delay of portage around the falls, a canal has 
been constructed on the south side of the river, two miles in? 
length, fifty feet wide, and forty feet deep* 

The water being high, we passed over the falls. It was 
a sublime scene. The water about Louisville moves slowly 
and smoothly ; but as you approach the falls', it increases 
in velocity and power. You soon find yourself in an irre- 
sistible current; and you are anxious to know whether 
your pilots are well skilled in their profession. You look at 



20 THE OHIO RIVER — OHIO AND KENTUCKY. 

them to see if they betray any fear ; you find, that while 
their attention is fixed, their countenances are serene. Your 
fears give way to emotions of the sublime. The boat shoots 
forward with amazing force and velocity, and very soon 
5 r ou find yourself gliding along in the wide-spread calm 
below. 

The Ohio is a noble river, affording in its whole course 
romantic and beautiful prospects. It flows in a smooth and 
easy current, and is diversified on every sid& with rich bot- 
tom land, rolling hills, and precipitous bluffs. These hills 
and bluffs, in many places, rise abruptly from the shore of 
the river, in other places they recede some miles, but in 
every part are in view ; and so varied is the scenery, that 
there is no weariness caused by monotony. No where has 
the hand of industry been wanting to add interest in pass- 
ing through this part of the great western valley. Farms, 
and towns, and villages, exhibit the advantage that has been 
taken of the exuberance of the soil. The many swift-mo^ 
ving, panting steam-boats show that industry furnishes the 
means of wide-extended and profitable commerce. The 
striking difference in the taste and habits of the people in- 
habiting the two sides of the river, was here very apparent. 
Upon the Ohio side, the farms and neatly painted dwellings 
are in the New England style, while on the Kentucky side, 
scattered here and there, you see the large log houses of the 
planters in a grade of architecture considerably above the 
log cabins of their slaves, by which they are surrounded, 
yet log houses still. These are built two stories high, with 
a wide airy hall through the centre, one of the lower rooms 
being the parlor, and the other serves the several purposes 
of a nursery, sleeping and eating room. Open, frank hos- 
pitality characterizes the Kentuckian, which is pleasing to 



CONFLUENCE OF OHIO AND MISSISSIPPI. 21 

a stranger. I offered a lady in one of these mansions 
some tracts, which she at first declined with the enquiry, 
"Do you think we are heathen?" "No, madam; but 
tracts contain much that is interesting to all classes 
of people, and after they are read, can be circulated 
among those who may not be well supplied ' with books." 
I saw but very few houses of worship, except in villa- 
ges. 

On the first of April we passed out of the waters of the 
Ohio into those of the Mississippi. The Ohio spreads out 
into a narrow sea and meets the Mississippi in the same 
form. Both appear to expand themselves into their most 
majestic forms, as though each was making an effort to 
daim the superiority ; and when joined, they move on with 
united grandeur. We should expect, at the confluence of 
these two rivers, to find a business-going village, but instead 
of such a place, there is only a whiskey-selling tavern, sur* 
rounded by a few miserable huts. 

To-day, a boy ten or twelve years old, playing about the 
machinery of the boat, was caught in it by the leg^ and had 
he not been immediately seized and extricated by two men 
standing by, must have been drawn wholly in and crushed 
to pieces. The bones were not broken, but the calf of the 
leg was distressingly mangled. There being no surgeon 
on board, I officiated in dressing his wounds. 

Passed, on the second, Point Girardou, fifty miles above 
the mouth of the Ohio. It is pleasantly situated upon a- 
bluff on the west side of the Mississippi. ; It has a fine 
prospect of the river, and might, under the hand of indus- 
try, become a desirable place ; but the French Catholics- 
are not an enterprising people, and it has the appearance of 

decay. We moved but slowly against the wind and currents 

3* 



22 PRAIRIES ON FIRE. 

The fires of the prairies coming over the bluffs, presented 
a fine scene this evening. These bluffs are two hundred 
feet high, and extend one or two miles along the river. At 
a considerable distance they appeared like an illuminated 
city, but as we approached and had a nearer view, the il- 
lusion was dissipated. The fires had advanced nearly over 
the bluffs, and curtained them with a moderately ascending 
blaze, drawn up on the bluffs and let down in festoons in 
the ravines ; and the counterpart reflected from the smooth 
waters of the broad Mississippi, added much to the beauty 
and grandeur of the prospect. 

We made a short stay on the third, at the landing of St. 
Genevieve. The village is situated a mile back from the 
river on the west side, and is inhabited almost entirely by 
French, who are slow to depart from the customs and man- 
ners established by their forefathers, who have long since 
passed away. To adopt new improvements would be a step 
next to giving up their catholic religion and turning infidel. 
It is amusing to see the manner in which they yoke their 
oxen, and to learn the reason they assign for so doing. The 
yoke is composed of a straight piece of wood, fastened to the 
back side of the horns by straps of leather. They say, that 
in this way, they save the whole power of the animal ; but 
that the yoke, bowed to the neck, and drawn back to the 
shoulder, loses the power of the head and neck. Their rea- 
soning may satisfy themselves, but would not convince the 
thorough New England farmer. 

To-day Herculaneum appeared in sight, which is situated 
on the west side of the river, thirty-five miles below St. Louis. 
It is almost surrounded by high precipitous hills, having 
only a narrow space for a village. There are several shot- 
towers, placed on the brink of high bluffs, in which con- 



GAMBLING. 23 

siderable business is done . Large quantities of lead, brought 
from the mines, are sold and carried to distant markets. 

In traveling upon these waters,, it is painful to see how 
few books of any value there are on board the steam-boats. 
Some novels are found, but the most of them are of a licen- 
tious character. Thousands of those who navigate these 
rivers are going to the judgment, regardless of the interests 
of their souls, and most of them are destitute of the Bible. 
It gave great offence to many, that we should have reli- 
gious worship in the ladies' cabin, as we did by invitation. 
Complaints of obtrusion were made — " Obtruding religion 
— no place for such things." But profanity and gambling 
are no obtrusion ; they are always in time and always in 
place. Christians must keep religion out of sight and hear- 
ing, but the wicked may be as open and obtrusive as they 
please. Gambling is practiced on board the steam-boats 
upon these waters to a very great extent, and is a favorite 
amusement with those whose minds are not sufficiently cul- 
tivated to find satisfaction in reading, or intelligent conver- 
sation. The number of black-legs who make gambling 
their business is great ; they are adepts in their profes- 
sion, and their success depends very much upon their skill 
in deception, and in decoying the inexperienced. 

On the evening of the fourth, we arrived at St. Louis. 
This is a flourishing business place, situated on the west 
side of the Mississippi, two hundred miles above the mouth 
of the Ohio, and twenty miles below the mouth of the Mis- 
souri, and in its local position resembles Albany, N. Y. 
The ground ascends for about a half mile from the river, 
and then spreads out into a widely extended plain, partly 
covered with shrubbery, back of which are open prairies. 

In the parts of the town built by the French, the streets 



24 ST. LOUIS. 

are narrow. This may have been to accommodate their 
propensity to be sociable, by- enabling them to converse from 
the windows across the streets. The French population, 
with few exceptions, are Roman Catholics, noted for their 
indolence and dissipation. Gambling is their favorite 
amusement ; and they have houses devoted to this object, 
with signs up, like those of whiskey venders. As gambling 
does not increase wealth, there are but few rich, enterprising 
men among the French population. Drunkenness is not 
common, and the temperance cause is doing much to remove 
what exists. Eastern enterprise and influence are gaining 
ground since the town has been brought under the laws of 
the United States ; and a new impulse is given to business. 
This is the central place in the west for the fur trade, which 
is carried on by the American Fur Company to a consider- 
able extent; and also much business is done in lead, which 
is obtained at Galena. A great number of steam-boats and 
other water craft, of various descriptions and destinations, are 
seen here at all seasons of the year. Adventurers, of almost 
every description of character and nation, such as trappers, 
hunters, miners, and emigrants, collect here, as a starting 
point from whence to go into the still far west, many of 
whom seek a miserable fortune among the Rocky Moun- 
tains. The local situation of this town is such, that it will 
undoubtedly continue to be one of the first places for trade 
in the great valley of the Mississippi. There are five 
houses of worship, four Protestant and one Roman Catholic. 
The Catholic cathedral is built of a firm light brown sand- 
stone, and is a large expensive building. The Protestant in- 
fluence is increasing, and there are here many active, devo- 
ted Christians, who exert a salutary influence upon the town 
and vicinity. The population is fifteen thousand* 



DR. WHITMAN. 



25 



Doctor Marcus Whitman had already arrived here, who 
is appointed by the American Board of Commissioners for 
Foreign Missions to be my associate. He came through 
the central parts of Ohio, Indiana and Illinois, and arrived 
a few days before me. On the 7th, we had an interview 
with Mr. Fontenelle, who takes charge of the caravan sent 
out by the American Fur Company. The caravan proceeds 
a short distance beyond the Rocky Mountains, for the purpose 
of carrying out goods for the Indian trade, and supplies for 
their men who are engaged in hunting and trapping ; and 
returns with the furs which they have taken during the 
year. There are about three hundred men constantly em- 
ployed in and about the mountains, and more than sixty 
who constitute the caravan. With a much less number it 
would be unsafe to perform this journey, as there are hos- 
tile tribes of Indians on the way, viz : the Arickaras, the 
Crows, and Blackfeet. Having obtained permission of the 
principal agents of the company, Mr. Fontenelle kindly of- 
fered to accommodate us with such advantages as may be 
afforded in his caravan. Finding it necessary to leave this 
place to-day for Liberty, which is one of the most western 
towns in the United States, we were very busily employed 
m making preparation for the journey, and in calling upon 
and bidding farewell to Christian friends. A fire last night 
destroyed a very large livery stable, in which we lost a 
horse, saddle, and bridle. The old cathedral, which was 
used for a store-house, was also burnt, together with a very 
large quantity of crockery which it contained. 



26 ACCIDENT* 



CHAPTER II. 

Leave St. Louis for Liberty — passage up the Missouri — snags — a walk 
on shore— Jefferson city — River scenery — Steam-boat Siam — Sand 
bars — Lexington — Steam-boat disaster — Liberty — Navahoe Indians 
— ride to Cantonment Leavenworth — amusing provincialisms- 
Caravan commence their journey — first encampment — Iowa Indi- 
ans — Blacksnake hills — Nodaway river— Elk-— cross the Neshna- 
botana — Rich soil — rapid rise of the north branch of Neshnabotana 
— mode of living — mounds of the west — cross the Missouri — Belle- 
vue — Missionaries. 

At five o'clock, P. M. we went on board the steam-boat 
St. Charles, Capt. Shellcross, and ascended the river twenty 
miles ; anchored at the confluence of the Missouri and 
Mississippi, and lay by for the night, as it was dangerous to 
proceed, on account of the many snags and sand bars in 
the Missouri. 

On the eighth, proceeding up the Missouri by rather slow 
progress, the first stop was made at St. Charles, which is 
twenty miles above the confluence of this river with the 
Mississippi, and the same distance north-west from St. Louis. 
This is a pleasantly situated village, upon the north side 
of the river. The country around is interesting, and the 
soil of superior quality. An enterprising Christian popula. 
tion would make this one of the most desirable places in 
the west. Soon. after we left- the shore, a boy six years of 
age, fell overboard, but, from the swiftness of the current, 
and as the boat was under full way, there was no opportu- 
nity to save him. He was seen floating a short time, but 
before the yawl could be loosed from its fastening, and 



JEFFERSON CITY. 27 

manned, he sunk, and was seen no more. His mother, a 
widow, and her family, were removing from Kentucky to 
Franklin, Mo. The mother and the children lamented 
greatly and loudly. 

Near the middle of the day, on the ninth, we struck a 
snag or rock, so deep beneath the turbid water, that we 
could not determine which it was, and it became necessary 
to repair one of the wheels of the boat, which was much 
injured. This afforded an opportunity to go on shore. 
Several of my fellow voyagers and myself ascended one of 
those high bluffs, which frequently skirt this river. This 
was accomplished by climbing on our hands and feet up an 
elevation of several hundred feet. Here we had a delight- 
ful view of the surrounding country, with its intermingled 
prairie and wood land, its cultivated spots, and its hills and 
dales. But in attempting to return, a new difficulty inter- 
posed. I said we ascended on our hands and feet — could 
we return in the same way ? We were compelled, by de- 
scending backwards, to use much caution, and letting our- 
selves down by the grass, or sometimes a shrub or tree, and 
assisting each other, we came safely to the shore. We also 
visited a place, some distance below this, where Lewis and 
Clark encamped three days, the state of the river being such 
that they could not ascend with their batteaux. Many wild 
turkeys were seen along upon the uninhabited shores. On 
the tenth, our boat discharged a part of her cargo at Port- 
land, a small newly built village. A fellow passenger, a 
merchant of this place, on landing, immediately put in re- 
quisition some thirty colored men, women, and children, who 
readily, without the aid of horses or carts, transferred his 
merchandize to its destination. 

The boat stopped on the 11th, at Jefferson City, the cap- 



28 SAND BARS. 

ital of the state, situated on the south side of the river, upon 
a high eminence, a little above the Osage river. It has a 
great name for so small a place. The state house is of a 
size which would be decent for a small academy ; and the 
governor's house would do very well for a common farmer's 
house in the country, but is not such as we should expect 
for a governor in Jefferson City. But the state of Missouri 
is comparatively new, and this place may in time support 
its name. 

Sabbath, the 12th, I remained in my state room, and en- 
deavored to observe the day according to the commandment. 

On Monday we passed Boonsville and Franklin, small 
villages, which have a country of rich land around them, 
and when it is brought under good cultivation, they must 
rise in importance. The scenery up this river is sufficiently 
diversified to excite interest and to charm. The trees along 
the shores are mostly oak and cotton- wood, with some hac- 
berry and buckeye, and it is interesting to see how easily 
and how deep they take root in the free rich soil along the 
river. Frequently, where the banks are washing away, the 
roots of the trees are exposed to full view, and generally 
there is only a large central root descending ten or twelve 
feet, with small ones branching out, presenting the appear- 
ance of an inverted cone. The river makes nothing of 
washing away, and forming islands. Sand bars and snags 
are so common, that, becoming accustomed to them, we 
hardly think of danger. 

On the 14th, we found the steam-boat Siam, Captain L., at 
Chariton, on board of which the St. Charles put her freight 
and passengers, and returned, both boats having so far 
discharged their freight, that one could proceed with the 
remainder. When under way, the boat ran upon a sand 



A CONTRAST. 29 

bar, which gave it a sudden whirl about, apparently threat- 
ening a disaster, but the quicksand of which the bar was 
composed, soon washed away, and we went ahead again. 
Running aground in this river is a very different thing from 
what it would be in most waters ; for the bars are so gene- 
rally formed of quicksand, that in most instances the current 
around the boat sets all clear. 

Soon after getting under way, on the 16th, we ran upon 
a bar, where we were detained two and a half hours, and 
so frequently were we upon these obstructions, that we made 
only five miles before one o'clock, P. M. Called at Lex- 
ington, a village pleasantly situated one mile back from the 
landing, and surrounded by a fine country. We made only 
about fifteen miles headway to-day, which is so slow, that it 
would have been far more pleasant traveling by land ; and 
to have been free from imprisonment with shockingly pro- 
fane swearers and gamblers, most of whom are intemperate. 

It was necessary to spend the nineteenth, another Sabbath, 
on board the steam-boat. How great a contrast to the sa- 
credness of the day when it is enjoyed in the Christian fam- 
ily circle ; or in the sanctuary where God is worshiped in 
the great congregation • or in the quiet, unobtrusive sabbath 
school, where attentive minds sit down to study the word of 
God, that they may practice its precepts, and where the 
teachers are heard explaining and enforcing divine truth 
upon the young and tender conscience. 

As we passed along, I saw many children standing on the 
banks of the river, and thought how benevolent persons at 
the east had desired their religious instruction, and how 
much had been done for the enterprise ; but it had failed to 
reach these. I also reflected on the examples of infidelity 
and vice around them, by which they are educated for de- 



30 STEAM-BOAT DISASTER. 

struction, and endeavored to ask the Great Benefactor of 
all, to do that for them which it was not in my power to do, 
I contrasted in my mind the difference between kindred 
souls in sweet communion in the service of God to-day, and 
the unrestrained wickedness of ungodly men, which my eyes 
and ears were witnessing, and said, when will the kingdoms 
of this world become the kingdoms of our Lord and his Christ. 

About the middle of the day, the captain and his men ap- 
peared to be given up to blind infatuation. The Siam was 
a new, well-built boat, had four boilers, and it was her first 
season. They appeared to regard no bounds in raising and 
applying steam. Such was the power under which the boat 
labored, that she more than trembled. For a long time I 
expected some disaster, and looked at the captain to see "if i 
could discover any apprehension of danger. There was 
no want of evidence that there was a free use of ardent 
spirits. SOon the disaster came, though less extensive than 
I had feared ; the main shaft, which was large and made of 
iron, broke, and farther progress was impossible. 

Monday, 20th. The day was spent in endeavoring to find 
some remedy for the disaster, but all to no purpose. It 
only remained to discharge her cargo upon the wilderness 
shore, let her passengers take care of themselves, and return 
with one wheel, like a crippled winged fowl. Two miles 
; above us lay the steam-boat Nelson, upon a sand bar high 
and dry. She ran aground upon the Sabbath, and being left 
by a freshet in the river, is waiting for another, to be libera- 
ted. Our captain remarked at dinner to-day, that most of 
the accidents which happen to steam-boats take place on the 
Sabbath ; and that he did not believe it would be long before 
they would not run on that day. We engaged a man to take 
us in a wagon to Liberty, and towards evening went out into 



LIBERTY. 81 

a small neighborhood of Mormons, where we lodged. They 
had fled from Jackson county, which they call their promised 
land, and to which they say they shall return. They are a 
poor deluded people, and when they speak of their persecu- 
tions, they seem not to possess the spirit of our Saviour, who, 
when he was reviled, reviled not again, and when he suffered, 
threatened not* 

We rode on the 21st, twelve miles to Liberty, through a 
very pleasant and fertile country, thinly inhabited, well 
supplied with woods, and sufficiently undulating and hilly to 
render it healthy. It was at that opening season of the year, 
when nature, arousing itself from the sleep of winter, appears 
with renovated beauty. Not only man, but flowers, and 
trees, and birds, seemed to enjoy the season and the scene. 
I was much charmed with the wood duck, (A. Sponsa) which 
here were numerous ; the variety of their colors were adapted 
to the beauty of the scenery which surrounded us. And 
the sprightly deer did not seem to accelerate its movements 
so much from fear, as from love of flight. 

Liberty is a small village, situated three miles north of 
the* river,- and is the county town- of Clay. R has a court- 
house of brick-^several stores, which do considerable busi- 
ness, a rope- walk, and a number of decent dwelling houses. 

We continued here about three weeks, waiting for the 
caravan to get in readiness. At this place it forms — men, 
horses and mules, and wagons, are collected and put in read- 
iness ; and from this place commences the long journey for 
the west. While we remained here, we had an opportunity 
to collect much information from those who have been to 
and beyond the Rocky Mountains, in regard to the country, 
mode of traveling, and concerning the various Indian tribes 
on the way. Captain Ford and Lieutenant Stein, from Fort 



82 CANTONMENT LEAVENWORTH. 

Leavenworth, were also here. They are both professors of 
religion, and appear to be well acquainted with the Indian 
country. Lieut. S. has been much among the Indians, was 
out with the dragoons the last year — and was among the Paw- 
nee Picts. He gives a very favorable account of them, and 
thinks the way is open to establish a mission among them 
with fair prospects of success. He also thinks the way is 
prepared, or is preparing, for a mission among the Caman- 
ehes, who heretofore have been hostile, but now wish for 
peace and trade with the Americans. I saw also a Mr. 
Vaughn of this place, a Baptist professor, who has made two 
trips to Santa Fe, and has resided two years in that place. 
He gives a very interesting description of the Navahoes, a 
tribe who number about two thousand warriors. Their 
country lies between the Rio Del Norte, and the eastern 
branches of Rio Colorado. They carry on agriculture to 
a very considerable extent; have large herds of cattle and 
horses, and flocks of sheep ; and have many domestic man- 
ufactures, and houses of good construction. They are 
friendly to the Americans, but not to the Spaniards. Mr. 
V. thinks they would readily receive Protestant missiona- 
ries, and would prefer them to Roman Catholics, because of 
their hostility to the Spaniards, He also speaks well of the 
Paches, or Apaches, a small tribe on the Del Norte towards 
old Mexico. These have been at war three years with the 
Spaniards. 

Saturday, May 9th, rode twenty-six miles to Cantonment 
Leavenworth, which is situated on the west side of the Mis* 
souri river, nearly twenty miles out of the United States. 
The way is through a fertile section of country, part of the 
distance is an open prairie, other parts are handsomely wood- 
ed, and all are well adapted to cultivation. I had an intrq. 



SINGULAR VIEWS. 33 

duction to several of the officers, and made my home at 
Lieut. S's, an agreeable and religious family. 

I preached three times on the Sabbath, and most of the 
people of the garrison assembled, and gave good attention. 
There is a very considerable number of professors of reli- 
gion attached to this station, but they have no chaplain 
to teach and lead them in their devotions, which is a defi- 
ciency in our military establishments. Colonel Dodge and 
some of the other officers appear disposed to maintain good 
order, and I should think they exerted a salutary influence. 
I had an opportunity, before I returned to Liberty, to take 
a. view of the fort and the adjacent country. The buildings 
of the fort are situated within an enclosure around a large, 
beautiful square, which is covered with grass, and adorned 
with shade trees. The whole is on an elevation of a few 
hundred feet, and has an interesting prospect of the majestic 
river flowing on silently below. The fertile country around 
presents a wide and fine prospect, and when settled by an 
industrious population, will equal the most favored parts of 
the earth. 

Liberty, and the surrounding country, is inhabited by 
people of considerable enterprise, and when it shall be 
brought under Christian influence, there will be but few 
places more inviting. There is but one Presbyterian min- 
ister in this county, a man of talents and very respectable 
attainments, who is exerting a good influence. The Bap- 
tists in this section of country are unlike those of the east. 
They are opposed to the benevolent operations of the day. 
Elder H. the pastor of the church in this place, invited Rev. 
Mr. Merril, a Baptist missionary, located among the Otoe 
Indians of the Platte, and myself, to preach for him the 

first Sabbath after our arrival. His people objected, ap- 

4* 



34 PROVINCIALISMS. 

prehensive that Mr. Merril would say something about the 
cause of Temperance, or missionary efforts, and Elder H. 
had to withdraw his invitation. They profess to act from 
Christian principles in refusing to give their minister any 
thing for support, lest they should make him a hireling. 

It is amusing to observe the provincialisms which are 
common in this part of the country. If a person intends to 
commence a journey some time in the month, for instance, 
in May ; he says, " I am going in all the month of May." 
For a large assembly of people, they say, " a smart sprinkle 
of people." The word "balance," comes into almost every 
transaction — " will you not have a dessert for the balance 
of your dinner ?" — " to make out the balance of his night's 
rest, he slept until eight in the morning." If your baggage 
is to be carried, it will be asked, "shall I tote your plunder ?" 
This use of the word plunder is said to have originated in 
the early predatory habits of the borderers. They also 
speak of a "mighty pleasant day" — "a mighty beautiful 
flower" — " mighty xveak" A gentleman, with whom I form- 
ed some acquaintance, invited me, when I should make " an 
outing" for exercise, to call at his house ; for his family 
would be " mighty glad" to see me. 

During our continuance at this place, we were hospitably 
entertained at the house of J. Bird, Esq., one of the judges of 
the county court. We were under many obligations to him 
and Mrs. B. not only for their liberality, but also for the 
privilege of retirement in so kind and intelligent a family. 
Nor would we be unmindful of the hospitality shown us by 
Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Yantis. 

May 15th, all things being in readiness, we commenced 
our journey for Council Bluffs, directing our course north- 
west. We did not get to-day beyond the boundaries of the 



INDIAN TRIBES. 3i> 

United States, and for the last time, for a long period to 
come, I lodged in the house of a civilized family. 

The next day, we traveled twenty miles, which brought 
us beyond the limits of civilization, and into the Indian coun- 
try, and encamped on a prairie surrounded with wood. The 
sensations excited by the circumstances of our situation 
were peculiar, and such as I had not before felt ; in a wil- 
derness, inhabited by unseen savages and wild beasts, en- 
gaged in setting our tent, preparing supper with only a few 
articles of furniture, the ground for our chairs, table, and 
bed. But all was conducted in good style ; for I would not 
dispense with attention to decencies, because beyond the 
boundaries of civilization ; and having adjusted every thing 
in good order, and offered up our evening devotions, we re- 
tired to rest. But how to adjust all the anxieties and feel- 
ings of the mind, so as to obtain the desired repose, was a 
more difficult task. 

On the 17th, I crossed over the east, or little Platte, which 
is a very considerable river, and spent the Sabbath with Mr. 
Gilmore, a Methodist professor, and governmental black- 
smith for the Iowa Indians. Saw many Indians of the Iowa, 
Sioux, and 1 Fox tribes. Among these a Fox Indian and his 
wife were noble looking persons, having their faces painted 
with unmixed vermilion ; the former entirely, and the latter 
in stripes. They felt too important to be seen noticing what 
was transpiring around, and seemed to think themselves 
the only objects worthy of notice. 

Here is an excellent, fertile tract of country, and nothing 
discouraging for a missionary station, except the contami- 
nating influence of vicious white men. The natives wish 
to cultivate their land, probably more from necessity than 
on any other account ; for their game is mostly gone. One 



36 BLACKSNAKE HILLS. 

of them came to Mr. Gilmore to get some ploughs, and re- 
marked, "It is hard work to dig up our ground for corn by 
hand." The Sioux here are only a small band, who would 
not join Black Hawk in his war against the United States, 
and who are now afraid to return to their own country. 
Their condition is becoming more and more wretched ; for 
while they have not the knowledge, the means, nor much 
of the inclination necessary to cultivate their lands advan- 
tageously, they have an insatiable thirst for ardent spirits ; 
and there are too many unprincipled men on our frontiers, 
who, for the sake of gain, will supply them with the means 
of drunkenness and destruction. 

Leaving Mr. G., gratefully remembering his hospitality, 
we rode on Monday, 18th, twelve miles to Blacksnake Hills. 
At this place Mr. Rubedoux has a trading post, and an un- 
commonly fine farming establishment on the Missouri river. 
His buildings are on a small elevation of land, having a 
delightful prospect in front of more than a thousand acres 
of open bottom land, lying along down the river; and hills 
on the north and east partially covered with woods. What 
has nature not wrought without the labor of man ? The 
herds of cattle, and other domestic animals, have as wide 
a range as they choose, and fences are necessary only to 
3ecure fields for cultivation. 

The Indians here have a new mode of disposing of their 
dead. A scaffold is raised about eight feet high, upon which 
the dead are placed in rudely constructed coffins overspread 
with skins. 

Having obtained a supply of milk, I encamped out, pre- 
ferring the field to the house, where I might have been sub- 
jected to many kinds of annoyances. 

For several days nothing special occurred.. On the 22d, 



CONSTRUCTION OF A RAFT. 37 

We crossed the Nodaway river with a raft ; the construction 
of which, and transporting our baggage, occupied most of 
the day. To construct a raft, a number of dry logs are 
collected, and secured together, side by side, with barks 
stripped from elm trees; some few men swim across the 
river, taking with them one end of a rope, while the other 
end is fastened to the raft ; it is then shoved off, the men 
upon the other side of the river pulling upon the rope, 
The raft is generally drifted considerably down stream, be- 
fore it is brought to land upon the opposite shore. In this 
manner they crossed and re-crossed, until the baggage was 
carried over. Then followed the swimming over the horses, 
which is attended with noise enough — hallooing of men, 
snorting of the horses, and throwing sticks and stones to 
prevent them, after having gone part the way over, from 
returning. 

We saw many elk, but they were too wary to be ap- 
proached, and too fleet to be chased, and our hunters were 
not sufficiently successful to obtain any. They are very 
large, and when their horns are on, have a very majestic 
appearance. We frequently found their horns on the 
prairie, some of which were four feet long, with large wide 
spreading branches, 

Sabbath, the twenty-fourth, passing over a brook near 
which we had encamped the evening before, my companion 
and myself remained for the day, while the caravan went 
on. The movements of the caravan are so slow, that we 
felt confident we could overtake them without any difficulty, 
and as there was no danger from the hostile Indians, we 
considered it our duty to rest on this holy day. The day 
was very warm for May, the thermometer standing, at two 
in the afternoon, at 88° = 



38 NESHNABOTANA RIVER. 

The next day we overtook the caravan before night, and 
crossed the south branch of the Neshnabotana on" a raft. 
Some of the men of the caravan, if not all, were much dis- 
pleased because we did not travel with them on the Sabbath. 
To express their displeasure, they cut some of the barks, 
with which the raft they had made was bound together, and 
set it adrift. Providentially it did not drift far before it 
lodged against a tree, and without much loss of time, we 
repaired it and passed over. 

After our arrangements were made for the night, one of 
the desperadoes came to our tent with a basin of alcohol, and 
stated to us that they had taken the offence of our refusing 
to travel with them on the Sabbath into consideration, and 
had concluded to pass it over, if we would take a friendly 
drink with them. This of course, we declined. He said 
the men were highly displeased, and he could not say what 
would be the result — giving us to understand that if we re- 
fused their terms of reconciliation, our lives were in danger. 
We still refused. He then said if we would put the basin to 
our lips and wet them, they would accept that as satisfac* 
tion. But his arguments and threats not availing to shake 
our temperance principles, he went away, but as we after- 
wards learned without giving up the purpose of revenge on 
some other occasion. 

On the twenty-sixth, we came to the main branch of the 
Neshnabotana, and commenced making a raft, the finishing 
of which and crossing took most of the following day. The 
soil of this part of the country is rich, and the grass for our 
horses is excellent ; but there are none here to till the ground, 
nor to gather in the ten thousand tons of hay, which might 
be made from the spontaneous growth. This part of the 
country does not yet answer the end for which it was crea* 



UNEXPECTED DIFFICULTIES. 39 

ted. The time will come, when a dense population will 
cover this country, who will render the sacrifice of prayer 
and praise to our God. 

On the 28th, we rode eleven miles, and came to the north 
branch of the above mentioned river. After we had con- 
structed a raft, we had a very difficult time of crossing. 
The water was continually and rapidly rising, and before 
we finished crossing, the banks were overflowed to conside- 
rable depth ; and the alluvial soil was rendered too soft to 
sustain our horses, and they sunk so deep that we could not 
proceed. After searching for a long time, a place was 
found sufficiently hard to bear up our animals when un- 
loaded. We had to cany our baggage upon our shoulders 
about fifteen rods, part of the way in water mid deep, going 
forward and returning until all was carried to better 
ground ; and then we had to ride a mile to the dry prairie 
in water one and two feet deep. We rejoiced to find our- 
selves once more on firm footing. Encamped by a stream 
of clear water, which is rare in this part of the country, and 
especially at this season of the year. The waters of all this 
portion of country, especially of the Missouri river, and its 
large tributaries, are very turbid, owing to the nature of the 
soil over which they pass. A pail full of water, standing 
half an hour at the seasons of freshets, will deposit three- 
eights of an inch of sediment ; and yet the water, when 
settled, appears to be of good quality. 

Our mode of living, from day to day, had already neces- 
sarily become uniform. Dry bread and bacon constituted 
our breakfast, dinner, and supper. The bacon we cooked, 
when we could obtain wood for fire ; but when " out of 
sight of land," that is, when nothing but green grass could 
be seen, we eat our bacon without cooking. Some of the 



40 MOUNDS OF THE WEST. 

simplest articles of furniture were sufficient for our culinary 
purposes. The real wants of life are few, artificial ones are 
numerous. 

30th. We drew near to Council Bluffs, and passed down 
from the high rolling prairie, through a vale two or three 
miles long, and a half mile wide, into the rich alluvial, and 
widely extended valley of the Missouri, through a section of 
country of uncommonly interesting scenery. The mounds, 
which some have called the work of unknown generations 
of men, were scattered here in all varieties of forms and 
magnitudes ; and were thousands in number, and perhaps I 
may say ten thousands. Some of these mounds were coni- 
cal, some eliptical, some square, and others parallelograms. 
One group of these attracted my attention more than any 
others. They were twelve in number, of conical form, with 
their bases joined, and twenty or thirty feet high. They 
formed about two-thirds of a circle, with an area of two 
hundred feet in diameter. If these were isolated, who would 
not say they are artificial ? But when they are only a 
group of ten thousand others, which have as much the ap- 
pearance of being artificial, who will presume to say they 
are the work of man ? But if they are the work of art, 
and attest the number, the genius, and perseverance of de- 
parted nations, whose works have survived the lapse of ages, 
their history is shrouded in darkness. " The mind seeks in 
vain for some clue to assist it in unraveling the mystery. 
Was their industry stimulated by the desire to protect them- 
selves against inroads of invaders, or were they them- 
selves the aggressors V " Are they the monuments of wes- 
tern Pharaohs, and do they conceal treasures which may 
yet be brought to light V There is nothing plainer than 
that they were never designed as works of defence. But 



MOUNDS OF THE WEST. 41 

some, while they admit that these mounds were not designed 
for offensive or defensive operations of belligerent powers, 
have supposed that they were erected as " mausoleums, and 
that the difference in their size was intended to convey an 
idea of the difference m the relative importance of those whose 
bones they cover." If this theory is true, the La Trappe on 
the Mississippi, which I had an opportunity of examining on 
my northern tour, which is as much as one hundred and fifty 
feet high, and covers about six acres, must inclose mighty 
bones, or the bones of a mighty monarch. I would not be 
understood to dissent from the belief, that there are artificial 
mounds in the great valley of the west, but I believe there 
are great mistakes in the theories upon this subject. It is 
said, by those who advocate the belief that they are the work 
of ancient nations, that they present plain evidence of this, 
from the fact that they contain human bones, articles of pot- 
tery, and the like, which evince that they were constructed 
for burying places of the dead. That some of them have 
been used for burying places is undoubtedly true ; but may 
it not be questionable whether they were constructed, or only 
selected for burying places. Besides, if these mounds were 
works of human art, I confess myself wholly at a loss to dis- 
cover the traces of design, which are always characteristic of 
every human effort. The absence of every other vestige of a 
race extinct, such as monuments, walls, cities, or ruins of 
any description, lead us to believe, that such a people must 
have lived only to burrow in the earth, as these mounds are 
the only traces they have left of their existence. Depopulate 
any portion of the world, with which we are acquainted, and 
save the savages who roam the desert or the prairie, many 
centuries must elapse, before all monuments would en- 
tirely cease to exist. No one, who has ever seen the im- 



42 PAWNEE MISSION. 

mense number of mounds scattered through the valley of the 
Mississippi, will ever be so credulous as to believe, that a 
five hundredth part of them are the work of man. 

We crossed the Maragine river, which, though very deep, 
was not so wide but that we constructed a bridge over it. 
Proceeding many miles through the rich bottom lands of the 
Missouri, we crossed this noble river over against Bellevue, 
in a large canoe, and swam our horses and mules across, 
which, on account of the width of the river, and the strength 
of the current, required much effort. I went Jo the 
agency house, where I was happy to find brethren Dun- 
bar and Allis, missionaries to the Pawnees, under the 
direction of the American Board of Commissioners for For- 
eign Missions. There is a Baptist mission here, composed 
of Rev. Moses MeFril and wife, Miss Brown, and a Chris- 
tian Indian woman, a descendant of Rev. D. Brainard's In- 
dians. They are appointed by the Baptist Board to labor 
among the Otoe Indians, about twenty-five miles from this 
place, on the river Platte- These Indians are away from 
their intended residence about half the time, on hunting 
excursions. 

A little more than a half mile below the agency, the 
American Fur Company have a fort, and in connexion 
they have a farming establishment and large numbers of 
cattle and horses, and a horse power mill for grinding corn. 



BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. 43 



CHAPTER III. 

Continuance at Council Bluffs — interesting scenery — Indian curiosity 
— information obtained about several Indian tribes — Spasmodic 
Cholera — an Indian Chief killed — leave Bellevue for the Black Hills 
— storm of rain — heavy thunder storm — Elkhorn river, the country 
around — Loups Fork of the Platte — manner of encamping — Big Ax, 
Pawnee Chief — Indian feasting — fourth of July — Messrs. Dunbar 
and Allis — thunder storm — Indian Ornaments — effects of drunken, 
ness — bite of a rattlesnake — buffalo seen — prairie horse-fly — forks 
of the Platte — want of wood — swiftness of antelopes — climate — thou- 
sands of buffalo — badgers — prairie dog— interesting bluffs— old cas- 
tle — the chimney, or beacon— an alarm — Ogallallah Indians, their 
lodges — Black Hills. 

We continued in this place three weeks, waiting the move- 
ments of the caravan, who made slow progress in preparing 
their packages for the mountains.- During our detention 
here, F frequently walked over the hills bordering upon the 
west of the valley of the Missouri, to enjoy the pure air of 
the rolling prairies, and to view the magnificent prospects 
unfolded in the vale below. From the summit of those pro- 
minences, the valley of the Missouri may be traced until 
lost in its far winding course among the bluffs. Three miles 
below, is seen the Papillon, a considerable stream from the 
north-west, winding its way round to the east, and uniting 
with the Missouri, six miles above the confluence of the 
Platte coming from the west. These flow through a rich 
alluvial plain, opening to the south and south-west as far 
as the eye can reach. Upon these meadows are seen feed- 
ing some few hundreds of horses and mules, and a herd of 



44 MISSIONARY PROSPECTS. 

cattle ; and some fields of corn diversified the scenery. The 
north is covered with woods, which are not less valua- 
ble than the rich vales. But few places can present a pros- 
pect more interesting, and when a civilized population shall 
add the fruits of their industry, but few can be more desi- 
rable. 

In respect to efforts for the religious instruction and con- 
version of the Indians, I am convinced, from all I can learn 
of their native character, that the first impressions which 
the missionary makes upon them, are altogether important 
in their bearings on successful labors afterwards. In things 
about which they are conversant, they are men ; but about 
other things they are children ; and like children, the an- 
nouncement of a new subject awakens their attention, their 
curiosity, and their energies; and it has been remarked by 
a Methodist missionary who Has labored among the Indians, 
tii at many seemed to embrace the gospel on its first being 
offered, and that those among the adults, who failed to do so, 
were rarely converted. If, from any motives, or from any 
cause, instruction is delayed, and their expectations are dis- 
appointed, they relapse into their native apathy, from which 
it is difficult to arouse them. 

We had an opportunity, whilst we continued in this place, 
to collect much information relating to the Indians in the Si- 
oux country, from Major P., the agent appointed by govern- 
ment to the Yanktons, a band of the Sioux. He appears to be 
not only intelligent and candid, but also well disposed to-' 
wards Indian improvement. The following is the substance 
of the information which he gave us in regard to several 
tribes to the north and north-west of this place : that the 
Omahaws are situated upon the Missouri, about one hundred 
and fifty miles above this place, and number about two 



SIOUX INDIANS. 45 

thousand. They have been well disposed towards the 
whites, but, owing to their intercourse with traders and 
trappers, and abuses which they have received from them, 
they are becoming more vicious in their habits, and less 
friendly. Yet, kind treatment would conciliate their favor, 
so that there would be no reason to fear but that a mission 
might be established among them with fair prospects of suc- 



The Yanktons are an interesting band of the Sioux, of 
about two thousand people. Their village is to be located on 
the Vermilion river, where it unites with the Missouri from 
the north. Maj. P. thinks this will be a very eligible place 
for a missionary station, and says he will do all in his power 
to aid such an enterprise. 

The Ponca Indians, on the south side of the Missouri, at 
the confluence of the L'eau qui coure, number six or eight 
hundred, and speak the same language as the Omahaws. 

The region of country, from the mouth of the Big Sioux 
river and that on the south of the L'eau qui coure, as high as 
the country of the Mandan Indians, may be classed under the 
general head of the Sioux country ; and is inhabited by the 
following bands of Sioux, viz : the Yanktons, already men- 
tioned, Santas, Yanktonas, Tetons, Ogallallahs, Siones,.and 
the Hankpapes, who course east and west from the Missis- 
sippi to the Black Hills, and sometimes as far south as the 
river Platte. The real number of the several bands cannot 
be correctly ascertained, but probably it is from forty to sixty 
thousand. Their habits are wandering, and they rely ex- 
clusively upon the chase for subsistence. Their principal 
trade is in buffalo robes. The traders have for many years 
maintained a friendly intercourse with them, and generally 

speaking, they are much attached to white men. 

5* 



46 THE SPASMODIC CHOLERA. 

The Mandans are a much more stationary people than 
almost any other tribe in this whole region of country, and 
the opportunity to establish missionaries among them is 
good ; but on account of repeated ill treatment, which they 
have experienced, they are beginning to grow suspicious, 
and are losing confidence in white men. 

Our stay in this place has been protracted much beyond 
our expectations. Two weeks after our arrival, the spas- 
modic cholera broke out with a great degree of malignity. 
The weather was very warm, and there were showers from 
day to day. The intemperate habits of the men, and their 
manner of living, probably had a tendency to induce the 
disease. Three of the company died ; and several others 
barely survived, through the blessing of God upon the as- 
siduous attentions of Doct. Whitman, my associate, and the 
free use of powerful medicines. And, had it not been for 
his successful practice, the men would have dispersed, and 
the caravan would have failed of going to the place of ren- 
dezvous. This was plainly seen and frankly acknowledged . 
This alarming disease was the means of effecting our de- 
parture sooner than it otherwise would have taken place. 
It was necessary to hasten to the higher prairies, as the 
only prospect of escaping the farther ravages of the dis- 
ease. Not a single new case occurred after we recom- 
menced our journey. This afflictive scourge, so far as it 
respected Dr. W. and myself, was providential. The as- 
sistance we rendered the sick, and the medical skill of the 
Doctor, converted those into permanent friends, who had so 
disliked the restraints which our presence imposed upon 
them, that, as they afterwards confessed, they had plotted 
our death, and intended on the first convenient occasion to 
put their purpose in execution. 



MURDER OF A CHIEF. 47- 

Whilst at Bellevue, a man by the name of Garrio, a half 
blood Indian chief of the Arickara nation, was shot under 
very aggravated circumstances. Garrio and his family 
were residing in a log cabin on the Papillon river. Six or 
seven men, half intoxicated, went down to his house in the 
night, called him up, took him away a half mile, and shot 
him with six balls, scalped him, and left him unburied. 
The reason they assigned for doing so, was, that he was a 
bad man, and had killed white men. If he was guilty, who 
authorized them to take his life ? The Arickara nation will 
remember this, and probably take revenge on some inno- 
cent persons. This, I apprehend, is the way Indian wars are 
often produced. While we charge the Indians with invete- 
rate ferociousness and inhuman brutality, we forget the too 
numerous wrongs and outrages committed upon them, which 
incite them to revenge. They cannot apprehend and do 
justice to such offenders. Or if they could, would it not be 
published as a gross Indian murder and aggression, and a 
war of extermination be commenced against them ? When 
Indian offences are proclaimed, we hear only one side of the 
story, and the other will not be heard until the last great day. 

Monday, June 22d. After so long delay, we re-com- 
menced our journey for the " far west." The Black Hills 
are to be our next stopping place. The caravan started 
yesterday. We passed over a rich extensive prairie, but 
so poorly watered, that we did not find a stream through 
the whole day. In the afternoon we had to ride in a heavy, 
cold rain, in consequence of which I became much chilled. 
Overtook the caravan, and encamped before night on a high 
prairie, where we could find but little wood, and it was dif- 
ficult to make a fire. We had for supper coarse bread made 
of corn, and some bacon. The change from the comforts to 



48 A STORM. 

the bare necessaries of life was trying ; but when I had 
wrapped myself in my blankets and laid down upon the 
ground to repose for the night, I felt thankful to God for his 
goodness. 

Being now beyond all white inhabitants, in an Indian 
country, and not knowing what the eventful future may 
unfold, I thought I could give up all my private interests 
for the good of the perishing heathen, if I could be instru- 
mental of their temporal and eternal welfare. Come life 
or death, I could say, " thy will be done." I felt strong con- 
fidence that God would protect and provide for us> and de- 
rived great consolation from* the promise, "Lo, I ' am with 
you always." The very pelting of the storm upon our tent 
had something in it soothing, and calculated to awaken the 
feeling that God was near. 

On the 23d, the storm still continued, and we did not re- 
move our encampment. 

Towards- noon on the 24th, went forward on our way and 
crossed the Papillon river, which occasioned much delay to 
get the baggage, wagons, and animals over. We did not 
find a suitable place for encamping where we could be ac- 
commodated with wood and water until about sunset ; and 
before we could pitch our tent, a thunder storm, which had 
been gathering for a long time, came down upon us with 
great violence, accompanied with wind and' hail. The ani- 
mals of the caravan fled" in different directions, some packed 
and some unpacked. I had only time to unpack my mule 
and let him go, and it was with much difficulty I could hold 
my horse, which had become almost frantic under the beat- 
ing hail, nor did I escape without some contusions. The 
lightning was very frequent, and the thunder was almost 
one continual roar. After a while the fury of the storm 



A FRIENDLY MEETING. 49 

abated, and in the dark we pitched our tent and got our 
baggage into it, but were not able to make a fire. We took 
such supper as we could provide with our coarse bread and 
bacon, without light and without fire, and laid ourselves 
down to rest. During the night there were several showers 
which created rivulets, some of which found their way un- 
der our tent. Towards morning we slept, and arose some- 
what refreshed. 

The morning of the 25th was very pleasant, and afforded 
a good opportunity to dry our baggage, and for the caravan 
to collect together their packs of goods, which were scat- 
tered over the prairie. After having spent the forenoon in 
drying and adjusting them, we went forward and arrived at 
the Elkhorn, a very considerable river. For conveyance 
over this river, we constructed a boat of a wagon body, so 
covered with undressed skins as to make it nearly water 
tight. The method was very good, and we commenced 
crossing, but night came on before we finished, and there- 
fore we encamped on the east side. The country here is 
excellent, and tolerably supplied with wood. 

On the 26th, we continued carrying over our baggage, 
and finished crossing at half after twelve, after which we 
traveled ten miles up the Elkhorn, and stopped for the night. 

On the 27th, arose very early and pursued our journey, 
and made good progress until three, P. M. when we met 
Messrs. Campbell and Sublette with a small caravan, re- 
turning from the Black Hills. When mountain traders 
meet under such circumstances there must be mutual ex- 
changes of friendship, more ceremonious and complicated 
than can be gone through with in the passing " how do you 
do." The two caravans encamped, in due form, and at a 
respectful distance from each other. 



50 FUTURE PROSPECTS. 

Sabbath, 28th. The caravans continued here through the 
day. This gave us an opportunity to rest, and to attend to 
devotional exercises in our tent. 

On the 29th, passed over and traveled a good distance up 
Shell creek. As a traveler, I should be guilty of neglect 
of duty, if I did not give a description of this section of 
country, belonging to the Otoes on the east, and the Pawnees 
on the west. For about twenty-five miles since we crossed 
the Elkhorn, between this river and the Platte, which are 
here about ten miles apart, there is not a single hill. It is rich 
bottom land, covered with a luxuriant growth of grass. No 
country could be more inviting to the farmer, with only one 
exception, the want of wood land. The latitude is sufficient- 
ly high to be healthy ; and as the climate grows warmer as 
we travel west, until we approach the snow-topped moun- 
tains, there is a degree of mildness, not experienced east of 
the Alleghany mountains. The time will come, and proba- 
bly is not far distant, when this country will be covered with 
a dense population. The earth was created for the habita* 
tion of man, and for a theatre, on which God will manifest 
his perfections in his moral government among his moral 
creatures, and therefore the earth, according to divine pre- 
diction, shall be given to the people of God. Although in- 
fidels may sneer, and scoffers mock, yet God will accom- 
plish his designs, and fulfil every promise contained in his 
word. Then this amazing extent of most fertile land will 
not continue to be the wandering ground of a few thousand 
Indians, with only a very few acres under cultivation; nor 
will millions of tons of grass grow up to rot upon the ground 
or to be burned up with the fire enkindled to^ sweep over the 
prairie, to disencumber it of its spontaneous- burden. The 
herds of buffalo which once fattened upon these meadows 



LOUPS FORK OF THE PLATTE 51 

are gone; and the 4eer which once cropped the grass have 
disappeared ; and the antelopes have fled away ; and shall 
solitude reign here till the end of time ? No : here shall 
be heard the din of business, and the church-going bell shall 
sound far and wide. The question is, by whom shall this 
region of country be inhabited ? It is plain that the Indi- 
ans under their present circumstances will never multiply 
and fill this land. They must be brought under the influ- 
ence of civilization and Christianity, or they will continue 
to melt away, until nothing will remain of them but the rel- 
ics found in museums, and some historical records. Phi- 
lanthropy and the mercy of God plead in their behalf. 

We were awakened on the 30th, at the first breaking of 
the day, by the usual call, " out, out ; gear up your mules ;" 
We traveled until one o'clock, P. M. more than eight hours, 
when we halted and breakfasted. We went again on our 
way, and came to the Loups fork of the Platte, and stopped 
for the .night. Most of the country -over which we traveled 
to-day was a rolling prairie. There is nothing in this sec- 
tion of country to interest the geologist. I did not see a 
single stone, after passing the Papillon to this place, except- 
ing a few small ones in the place where we crossed that 
stream, and which on that account is called Rockford. It 
is one of the peculiarities of the dialect of the people in the 
westernmost states, to call small stones, rocks. And there- 
fore they speak of throwing a rock at a bird, or at a man. 
There are no forests in these western regions. The mead- 
ows spread out almost without bounds. There are only 
here and there some clumps of trees ; and the rivers and 
smaller streams are skirted with cotton wood, elms and wil- 
lows. Whatever propriety there once was, there is none 
now, in calling the Indians, children of the forest. 



52 MANNER OF ENCAMPING. 

The thermometer stood to-day, at noon, at 81°. 

Wednesday, July 1st. I rested the last night as quietly 
as I should have done upon a good bed, in a civilized 
country ; and was cheerful in committing myself to God, to 
awake in this, or in the eternal world, as he should direct. 

We have a small tent made of coarse cotton cloth, form- 
ing a cone. After setting this, we stow away our baggage 
so as to leave a space in the centre for our lodgings. My 
bed is made by first spreading down a buffalo skin, upon 
this a bear skin, then two or three Mackinaw blankets, and 
my portmanteau constitutes my pillow. 

We proceeded to-day a few miles up the Loups fork, and 
unexpectedly found a good fording place, where we crossed 
the river, which in this place is nearly a mile wide. After 
going a few miles up the river, we halted for the night. 
The manner of our encamping, is to form a large hollow 
square, encompassing an area of about an acre, having the 
river on one side ; three wagons forming a part of another 
side, coming down to the river ; and three more in the same 
manner on the opposite side ; and the packages so arranged 
in parcels, about three rods apart, as to fill up the rear, and 
the sides not occupied by the wagons. The horses and 
mules, near the middle of the day, are turned out under 
guard, to feed for two hours ; and the same again towards 
night, until after sunset, when they are taken up and brought 
into the hollow square, and fastened with ropes twelve feet 
long, to pickets driven firmly into the ground. The men 
are divided into small companies, stationed at the several 
parcels of goods and wagons, where they wrap themselves 
in their blankets and rest for the night ; the whole, how- 
ever, are formed into six divisions to keep guard, relieving 
each other every two hours. This is to prevent hostile 



PAWNEE FEASTS. 53 

Indians from falling upon us by surprise, or coming into the 
camp by stealth and taking away either horses or package.* 
of goods. We were permitted, by favor, to pitch our tent 
next to the river, half way between the two wings, which 
made our situation a little more retired. 

Nothing of special interest occurred on the second. On 
the third, we passed the villages of the Tapage and Republi- 
can Pawnee Indians. These Indians have dwellings which 
appear substantial and somewhat adapted to comfort. Many 
of the Pawnee Loups came to us, and received us with 
great civility and kindness. Big Ax, their second chief, had 
charge of this party. He is a man of dignified appearance, 
and his countenance is expressive of intelligence and benev- 
olence. He is very friendly to white men. These Indians 
were going out upon their summer hunt, by the same route 
we were pursuing, and were not willing we should go on be- 
fore them, lest we should frighten away the buffalo. 

They manifested their friendship by inviting us to feasts ; 
and as we may attend half a dozen in a day without being 
surfeited, an explanation may not be out of place. Big Ax 
gave the first invitation; and as it is not customary for 
those who provide the feast to sit down with their guests, ho 
and his associates sat in dignified silence on one side of the 
lodge, while those of us who partook of the feast, occupied the 
centre. The daughters of Big -Ax served us on the occasion, 
and bountifully helped us to boiled corn and beans. Such 
are their customs, that to avoid giving offence, we must eat 
all that is set before us, or take it away ; and Mr. Fomtenetie 
took what remained. In the evening we were invited to two 
others. The first consisted of boiled com and dried pump- 
kins, and the other of boiled buffalo meat. l The next morn- 
ing we also a;ave the principal chiefs a feast, settiftg be fee 

6 



54 CHANGES OF THE RIVER. 

them all the variety which our bacon and coarse bread 
could furnish, having it in our power to add a dish of coffee , 
of which luxury we partook for this once on our whole 
journey. 

Amidst the uniformity of prairie scenery, there is yet 
some variety. It was curious to mark the alterations which 
time and flood have made in the channel of this river. 
Formerly, perhaps not a few centuries ago, the river ran a 
hundred feet higher than at present, and it is owing to the 
yielding nature of the soil that its waters are so very tur- 
bid. The water of the LoupsFork, however, comparative- 
ly speaking, is quite clear. This section of country offers 
an interesting field for botanical research. Since crossing 
the Elkhorn, I have noticed nine different species of grass, 
most of which are entirely new. The flowering plants are 
very numerous and beautiful, and especially the rose, which 
is found of almost every hue. Thermometer, at noon, 90°. 

July 4th. This is a day of great noise and bustle in the 
states. Orators speak of the deeds and achievements of our 
forefathers: their audiences catch the spirit of patriotism. 
Not so with our company. Having almost expatriated 
themselves, they had forgotten their nation's birth-day ; and 
knowing that their days of indulgence would be seasons 
of reveling, I forbore to remind them of it. How suitable 
would be a rational religious expression of gratitude to 
Heaven, instead of the confusion and riot, which are the 
common demonstrations of joy on such occasions. Ther. 
mometer at 96° at noon. 

On the fifth, which was the Sabbath, the caravan went 
forward a few miles and then encamped. The Indians were 
constantly calling at our tent through the day. It was pain- 
ful to witness their poor degraded condition, ignorant of God 



MISSIONARIES. 55 

and salvation, and, for want of a knowledge of their lan- 
guage, to be unable to point them to the Savior, or teach 
them their obligations to their Maker, and their duty to turn 
to him with their whole heart. I hope and pray that the 
Pawnee mission may prosper ; that the disposition which 
Messrs. Dunbar and Allis manifest to go with the Indians 
and live as they live, may be followed up, until their teach- 
ing and influence are felt, and the Indians shall locate them- 
selves upon their lands, under the influence of Christianity 
and civilization. The mode which Messrs. D. and A. have 
adopted of going with the Indians where they go, appears to 
be the right one, and must be generally adopted to bring the 
numerous wandering nations and tribes to the knowledge of 
Christ. 

It is all important that the missionary should be able to 
speak to the heathen in the language in which they were 
born. It is also important that the Indians settle down and 
cultivate the soil ; but how can they be induced to do this 
before they are taught ? An interpreter may be employed 
for awhile, but the missionary must become, as soon as pos- 
sible, his own interpreter. And why can he not learn the 
Indian language as well as the trader and hunter? He can, 
if he will exercise as much self-denial. 

On the sixth, we left the Loups Fork, very early in the 
morning, in company with the Pawnees, and directed our 
course south-west for the Platte river. Towards evening, 
we had a thunder storm with heavy rains, which continued 
through most of the night ; but, protected by our tent, we 
slept so soundly, that our meat was stolen from us ; and in 
our circumstances, though only about six pounds, it was a 
sensible loss. 

After we came to the Platte, we pursued our way up the 



56 BIG AX, A PAWNEE CHIEF. 

river, which is broad, but not very deep, as its name indi- 
cates. The country begins to diminish in its fertility, but 
still is very good. We were prevented from making the 
progress we might have done, if the Indians would have 
permitted us to go on and leave them. The men of the cara- 
van began to complain of the delay, and had reason to do so, 
having nothing to eat but boiled corn, and no way to obtain 
any thing more before finding buffalo. 

The intellectual powers of these Indians are very good, 
but need cultivation. They are fond of ornaments, and not 
having the same means of gratifying their vanity as civilized 
people have, they resort to almost any thing to decorate their 
persons ; such as porcupine quills, beads, wreaths of grass 
and flowers, brass rings upon their wrists, birds' feathers, 
and claws of wild beasts. The clavrs of a grizzly bear are 
an ornament of the first order, and the tails of white wolves 
a.re in high estimation. But their favorite and almost uni- 
versal ornament is painting their faces with vermilion. 

These heathen, like all others, are ignorant of the benign 
influence of the gospel, and therefore, while they have many 
interesting traits of character, are cruel to their old men and 
women. The women are compelled to do all the work — 
the men only hunt and go to war. Having but few horses, 
when they journey, they place burdens upon the old men and 
women, and even upon the blind and lame — and upon their 
dogs. I did not see among these Indians a single person 
having any natural deformity, nor any one who appeared to 
be deficient in common sense. 

July 9th. To-day Big Ax came to my tent and sat by 
me a long time. Never did I so much wish to converse with 
any man and tell him about the Savior, and, from the ex- 
pression of his countenance, I thought he desired to be in- 



ATTEMPT TO MURDER. 57 

structed. But the gift of tongues was not imparted to me, 
and we could only converse with the language of signs, 
which is far more intelligible than I had anticipated. 

Capt. Fontenelle, by a large present, purchased of the In- 
dians the privilege of going on to-morrow without them. 
Our men could hardly have been kept in subordination, if 
they had not consented. 

Towards the night of the 10th we had an uncommon 
storm of thunder, hail, rain, and wind. The horses and 
mules could not be controlled, and turned and fled in all di- 
rections before the storm. The whole caravan was scatter- 
ed over the prairie ; but when the storm abated, they were 
again collected without much difficulty, and nothing was 
lost. If any hostile band of Indians had been about us, it 
would have been easy for them to have made us a prey. 
But the Lord not only rode upon the storm, but was also near 
for our defense. The scene was alarming, and yet grand 
and truly sublime. 

Sabbath,. 12th. We are in a land of dangers, but God is 
our preserver, and how desirable it is, that his mercies-should 
be had in grateful remembrance, and that the portion of time, 
which he has set apart as holy, should be observed. as .such. 
The caravan traveled a part of the day, but were under the 
necessity of stopping in consequence of rain, which wet their 
packages. It is worthy of notice, that there have been vari- 
ous providences, which have thus far prevented them from 
traveling much upon the Sabbath. But this day has been 
one of great confusion and wickedness. In consequence of 
the men being drenched with rain, whiskey was dealt out 
freely, to keep them from taking cold. Most of them became 
much excited, and one, who took an active part in killing 

Garrio, stabbed a man, with full intent to have pierced his 
6* 



58 MEDICINAL PLANT. 

heart ; but the knife, by striking a rib, turned aside and 
only made a deep flesh wound. 

I think I know the feelings of David, when he expressed 
a strong desire after the sanctuary of God, and to dwell in 
his tabernacle. 

July 13th. We are not traveling through forests, nor a 
solitary desert, but through almost boundless meadows, that 
have the appearance of being under good cultivation. We 
see no fields of grain, nor habitations of civilized men, but 
meadows adorned with a great variety of plants, some of 
which appeared to be gregarious. Often some acres are 
diversified with great variety of colors and species. 

There are two species of plants which are said to be a 
sovereign remedy for the poison of the rattle-snake, the 
virtues of one of which we had an opportunity of testing. 
One of our men was bitten in the foot, and before we knew 
it the poison had so far progressed, that both the foot and 
leg had become much inflamed and very painful. One of 
these plants was applied to the parts affected, and at once 
the man was convalescent, and in a few hours was well. 
The leaves of the plant resemble those of the blue flag, 
except that they are serrated. The healing properties are 
contained in the roots, which are bruised and applied to the 
affected parts. Rattle-snakes are not numerous. These 
and other reptiles are prevented from multiplying, by the 
fires which every year run over the prairies. 

On the 14th, the announcement of buffalo spread cheer- 
fulness and animation through the whole caravan, and to 
men whose very life depended on the circumstance, it was 
no indifferent event. From the immense herds of these wild 
animals, dispersed over these beautiful fields of nature, we 
were to derive our subsistence. Although several were 



BUFFALO. 59 

seen to-day, yet our hunters were not successful in obtain- 
ing many. 

I had heard of the prairie horse-fly, but was not aware 
that it would be so very annoying and even tormenting to 
our horses. Its bite is like the thrust of the point of a lan- 
cet, and when the fly is surfeited, or is brushed off, the blood 
immediately gushes out. When the caravan is in close 
company, there being about two hundred horses and mules, 
the number of the flies are so divided that they are more 
tolerable ; but when for any purpose a horse is separated 
from the company, he is severely bitten by them. On one 
occasion, when I rode forward to find a crossing place over 
a deep muddy stream of water, they came around my horse 
in such swarms that he became frantic, and I was obliged 
to return in full speed. I have no doubt that a horse left 
alone in the season of these flies would be killed by them. 

The next day, we journeyed as usual, and about noon 
arrived at the Forks of the Platte. We saw a large herd of 
buffalo, from which we obtained a good supply of excellent 
meat. These animals, with their shaggy shoulders, neck,, 
and heads, make a very majestic appearance, and if their 
natures were unknown, would be terrific. But they are 
timid and inoffensive, showing no disposition to injure any 
person, except in self-defense when wounded and closely 
pursued. Their strength is great ; and, although they look 
clumsy, they run very swiftly. It requires a horse of more 
than ordinary speed, to outrun them for any considerable time . 

The section of country about the Forks of the Platte is 
very pleasant, without any high mountains in sight ; but at 
a distance beyond the widely extended rich bottom lands, 
bluffs of various forms present a picturesque scenery. The 
entire absence of forests in the large space of country around, 



00 DEFENSIVE PREPARATIONS. 

is a deficiency which cannot be easily remedied ; but prob- 
ably forest trees might be cultivated to advantage. Is it not 
highly probable that mineral coal will be found here as well 
as upon the prairies in the western states ? We found no 
wood yesterday, nor to-day, and probably shall not for some 
days to come ; and therefore we have been under the neces- 
sity of making our fires with the dry dung of the buffalo. 
The most thoroughly weather-beaten is selected, and proves 
to be a better substitute for common fuel than we had anti- 
cipated. Although we are now where we had fears of find- 
ing the Arickara Indians, the death of whose chief has been 
mentioned, and who have been residing near this place for 
several months past, yet we have seen no Indians since we 
left the Pawnees. It is supposed they have gone far up the 
south Fork of the Platte, to avoid the United States dragoons, 
under the command of Col. Dodge, who are on their way to 
call them to account for their conduct towards white men, 
and to form with them a treaty of peace, although they are 
not fond of treaties when peace is to be observed by only one 
of the parties. They intend to keep out of the way of the 
dragoons, and therefore we hope to pass unmolested. 

We took our course up the north- west Fork of the Platte, 
and towards night encamped upon its bank in our usual 
form, using particular caution to be prepared for an attack 
of the Arickaras, should any of their war parties be about us. 
Every man was required to see that his rifle was in order, 
and to have a good supply of powder and balls. We all 
slept with our clothes on, so that, if called by the sentinel's 
fire, we might in less than a moment be ready for action ; 
but the night passed away in quietude, and at the first break- 
ing of the day we were awakened by the customary call of 
the guide. 



ANTELOPES. 61 

Saw, on the 16th, the buffalo in greater numbers, and 
nearer than previously. They are less shy than those we 
first found. They are more majestic than the elk, but less 
beautiful. The antelopes, some of which we have seen for 
several days past, are becoming very numerous, and their 
speed exceeds that of any animal I have ever seen. Our 
hounds can do nothing in giving them the chase ; for the 
dogs are so soon left far in the rear, that they do not follow 
more than ten or twenty rods, before they return, looking 
ashamed of their defeat. Our hunters occasionally take 
some by coming upon them by stealth. When they are 
surprised,' they start forward a very small space, then turn, 
and with high lifted heads, stare for a few seconds at the 
object which has alarmed them, and then, with a half whis- 
tling snuff, bound off, seeming to be as much upon wings as 
upon feet. They resemble the goat, but are far more beau- 
tiful. Though they are of different colors, yet they are 
generally red, and have a large, fine, prominent eye. Their 
flesh is good for food, and about equal to venison. 

July 17th. We did not go on our way as early this 
morning as usual, having been detained by breaking an 
axle-tree of one of our wagons. The country is becoming 
more hilly, and the bluffs in some places come down to the 
river. Herds of buffalo are seen in almost every direction, 
and they are so numerous, that our animals find scanty pas- 
ture. The thermometer stood at noon at 88°. Encamped 
a little below Cedar bluffs, so called from the few cedars 
scattered over them, which promise a better supply of fuel. 

Commenced our journey on the 18th, at our usual early 
hour, to travel on until near noon before breakfast. From 
the change of vegetation of various kinds, and birds, &c. 
it is evident we are ascending into higher regions of coun- 



62 SHOOTING BUFFALO. 

try, and an atmosphere more resembling that of the New 
England States. As we advance, the flowering plants are 
becoming less numerous ; and although the middle of the 
day is very warm, yet the nights and mornings are more 
cool. The ascent is so gradual, that the change is not per- 
ceptible. Rocks begin to appear, and still we are far from 
the Rocky Mountains. Limestone of light brown color is 
found in the bluffs, laying in horizontal strata, which might 
be easily worked and to any extent. ■ Very small black 
gnats, hardly discernible by the naked eye, have been nu- 
merous and very annoying, and for several days we rode 
with silk handkerchiefs closely tied over our faces to pro- 
tect us from their poisonous bite. 

July 20th. Thousands of buffalo were seen to-day, and 
our men amused themselves with chasing and shooting at 
them ; but it was well for the buffalo that they made poor 
shots. I can hardly reconcile it with a good conscience, to 
trifle with the life even of the most insignificant animals, yet, 
for once, I felt myself powerfully inclined to try my horse 
in the chase. The noble creature enjoyed the sport, and 
would have rushed fearlessly into the midst of them, had I 
not held him in check. At that time, not being sufliciently 
acquainted with this species of amusement, and intending 
to make sure of my victim, I dismounted in order to take a 
more steady aim than I could otherwise have done ; and by so 
doing, as our guide afterwards informed me, placed myself 
in imminent danger ; for the animal, when wounded, often 
turns upon his antagonist to retaliate his injuries. Fortu- 
nately, though I wounded one, he did not rise upon me, and 
I returned to the caravan unconscious of danger. 

Badgers inhabit this part of the country, and from the 
many holes, which they dig in the ground for their dwell- 



BADGERS PRAIRIE DOGS. G3 

ings, they must be very numerous, though we have seen 
only a few, and have killed but one. They keep near their 
burrows, and run into them on the least approach of danger. 
The badger is of the genus ursus, about the size of the mar- 
mot, or what is often called the woodchuck, of a silvery gray 
color, with short legs, and its whole aspect is interesting. I 
did not have an opportunity to learn many of its habits. A 
small animal called the prairie dog, abounds in this section of 
country. It takes its name, not from its appearance, but from 
its barking, which is like that of a very small dog. It is of a 
brown color, and its fur is of superior fineness. It is very shy 
and difficult to be taken. Was it not for this last circum- 
stance, I should think it might be an important article of traffic. 

We passed, on the 21st, many uncommonly interesting 
bluffs composed of indurated clay, situated on a wide spread 
plain ; many of them very high, with perpendicular sides, 
and of almost every imaginable form. Some appeared like 
strong fortifications with high citadels ; some like stately ed- 
ifices with lofty towers. I had never before seen any thing 
like them of clay formation. And what adds to their beau- 
ty is, that the clay of which they are composed, is nearly 
white. Such is the smoothness and whiteness of the perpen- 
dicular sides and offsets ; and such the regularity of their 
straight and curved lines, that one can hardly believe that 
they are not the work of art. 

It was a very warm day. The thermometer stood at noon, 
at 90°, and at 5 o'clock, P. M. at 100°. There were no 
prairie winds as usual. Almost every day winds blow over 
the prairies like sea breezes, or trade winds. They gene- 
rally commence about eight in the morning, and continue 
through the day. These winds render the traveling com- 
fortable, although the thermometer may range high. 



64 THE OLD CASTLE. 

We encamped to-day in the neighborhood of a great nat- 
ural curiosity, which, for the sake of a name, I shall call 
the old castle. It is situated upon the south side of the 
Rlatte, on a plain, some miles distant from any elevated 
land, and covers more than an acre of ground, and is more 
than fifty feet high. It has, at the distance of the width of 
the river, all the appearance of an old enormous building, 
somewhat dilapidated ; but still you see the standing walls, 
the roof, the turrets, embrasures, the dome, and almost the 
very windows ; and large guard-houses, standing some rods 
in front of the main building. You unconsciously look 
around for the enclosures, but they are all swept away by the 
lapse of time — for the inhabitants, but they have disap- 
peared ; all is silent and solitary. Although you correct 
your imagination, and call to remembrance, that you are 
beholding the work of nature, yet, before you are aware, 
the illusion takes you again, and your curiosity is excited to 
know who built this fabric, and what has become of the 
by-gone generations. I found it impossible to divest myself 
of such impressions. The longer and the more minutely I 
examined it, the more I saw to admire ; and it reminded me 
of those descriptions of power and grandeur in ruins, of 
which we read of ancient times and nations. 

Encamped at noon of the 22d, near another of nature's 
wonders. It has been called the chimney ; but I should 
say, it ought to be called beacon hill, from its resemblance 
to what was beacon hill in Boston. Being anxious to have 
a near view, although in a land of dangers, I concluded to 
take an assistant and pass over the river to it. The river 
where we crossed was about a mile wide, shallow and full 
of quicksand, but we passed it without any difficulties. We 
rode about three miles over a level plain, and came to tho 



AN ALARM. 65 

base. The distance from the other side of the river did not 
appear more than a mile, so deceptive are distances over 
plains without any landmarks. This beacon hill has a con- 
ical formed base of about half a mile in circumference, and 
is one hundred and fifty feet in height ; and above this is a 
perpendicular column, twelve feet square, and eighty feet 
high ; making the whole height about two hundred and 
thirty feet. We left our horses at the base, and ascended 
to the perpendicular. It is formed of indurated clay or marl, 
and in some parts is petrified. It is of a light chocolate, or 
rufous color, in some parts white. Near the top were hand- 
some stalactites, at which my assistant shot, and broke oiF 
some pieces, of which I have tak^n a small specimen. We 
descended, and having finished my survey, had just mounted 
; our horses, when we saw two bands of buffalo, six or eight 
hundred in number, coming full speed towards us, taking 
their course down the river. We knew somebody must be 
pursuing them, and as, from indications for two days past, 
we had suspected Indians near, we thought it would be the 
safest for us to make and secure a speedy retreat to the car- 
- avan, and set off in haste for the river, which at the nearest 
point was two miles distant. Very soon we saw a man on 
horseback coming rapidly towards us — he stopped and gave 
a signal for others behind him to hasten on, and at once we 
saw a band of men coming full rush. We put our horses 
to their utmost speed, and when we thought our retreat to 
the river fully secured, we stopped and took an observation 
with a large spy-glass, which we had taken the precaution 
to have with us, and found they were white men, who had 
come from a fort of the American Fur Company at the Black 
Hills, to meet the caravan. Mr. Fontenelle, the comman- 
der of the caravan, saw the movement, was alarmed for 

7 



66 SCOTT 'S BLUFFS. 

our safety, and came out in all haste, with a number of 
armed men to our assistance. But all resulted in friends 
meeting friends. There were some Ogallallah Indians 
near us, who came to our camp in the evening. Thermom- 
eter 90°. 

On the 23d, after traveling a few miles, we encamped 
near Scott's bluffs. These are the termination of a high 
range of land running from south to north. They are very 
near the river, high and abrupt, and what is worthy of notice, 
there is a pass through the range a short distance back from 
the river, the width of a common road, with perpendicular 
sides two or three hundred feet high. It appears as though 
a part of the bluffs had been cut off, and moved a few rods to 
the north. Instead of journeying, the naturalist would de- 
sire weeks to examine the interesting scenery of this section 
of country, and the more minute his examination, the more 
would he find to gratify his curiosity. 

This whole country appears to abound in magnesia, so 
that epsom salts are found in almost every part ; in some 
places in large quantities in a crystalized state. Our hor- 
ses and mules were disposed to make these a substitute for 
common salt. Thermometer to-day stood at 90°. 

While we were encamped at noon of the 24th, and our 
horses and mules were turned out under guard, and we were 
preparing our breakfast, or what should be dinner, we were 
alarmed with the call, "Secure your animals! secure your 
animals !" I looked around to discover the cause of the 
alarm, and saw, at about a mile and a half distance, some 
thirty or forty Indians coming on horseback at full speed. 
We had not more than half secured our animals and pre- 
pared for defense, when the Indians were close upon us ; 
whether friends or foes we could not tell, until they were 



THE OGALLALLAHS. 67 

nearly within rifle shot, when, according to the customary 
expression of friendship, they fired their guns into the air, 
and then rushed into" our camp, and exchanged salutations 
of peace. They were Ogallallahs, headed by eight of their 
chiefs, clad in their war habiliments, and presenting some- 
what of a terrific appearance. The chiefs dined with us, 
and were very talkative among themselves ; for, not hav- 
ing any good interpreter, we could not join in conversation 
with them. Every thing, however, went on pleasantly, and 
to mutual satisfaction. They told us their whole village 
was only a few hours' travel ahead of us, going to the Black 
Hills for the purpose of trading. 

On the 25th, the heat was very oppressive in the middle 
of the day, there not being as much wind as usual. Ther- 
mometer 92°. Towards evening, we came to the main vil- 
lage of the Ogallallahs, consisting of more than two thou- 
sand persons. These villages are not stationary, but move 
from place to place, as inclination or convenience may dic- 
tate. Their lodges are comfortable, and easily transported. 
They are constructed of eight or ten poles about eighteen 
feet long, set up in a circular form, the small ends fastened 
together, making an apex, and the large ends are spread 
out, so as to enclose an area of about twenty feet in diame- 
ter. The whole is covered with their coarse skins, which 
are elk, or buffalo, taken when they are not good for robes. 
A fire is made in the centre, a hole being left in the top of 
the lodge for the smoke to pass out. All that they have for 
household furniture, clothing, and skins for beds, is deposi- 
ted around according to their ideas of propriety and conve- 
nience. Generally not more than one family occupies a 
lodge. These are the finest looking Indians I have ever 
seen. The men are generally tall and well proportioned ; 



68 A SABBATH AMONG THEM. 

the women are trim, and less pendulous than is common 
among Indian women, and all were well dressed and cleanly. 
They came around us in multitudes, and manifested great 
curiosity to see whatever we had. I did not know why, but 
my boots were particularly examined ; probably they had 
never seen any before, as moccasons are worn, not only by 
Indians, but also by traders and hunters. 

Sabbath, 26th. The caravan moved on a little way to 
the crossing place of the Platte, near Larama's fork in the 
Black Hills, and encamped for the day. This gave us an 
opportunity for reading and devotion. Some of the Ogal- 
lallahs came to my tent while I was reading the Bible, and 
observed me attentively, as though enquiring the reason 
why I was differently employed from others. I endeavored 
to make them understand by the language of signs, that I 
was reading the book of God , which teaches us how to wor- 
ship him. After spending some time in teaching them to 
read, and how God is to be worshiped, I sung a hymn, 
which greatly interested them. They took me by the hand, 
and the expression of their countenance seemed to say, we 
want to know what all this means. My spirit was pained 
within me, and I anxiously desired to understand their lan- 
guage, that I might tell them about Christ, the only Savior. 
The enquiry arose forcibly in my mind, why will not some 
of the many Christian young men of the east, exercise so 
much self-denial, as to come and teach them the way of sal- 
vation ? What Christian would not glory in such labor ? 
And if there should be any tribulations attendant on the enter- 
prise, would they not, like St. Paul, glory in tribulations ? 

At evening, we passed over the Platte, and went a mile 
and a half up to the fort of the Black Hills, and encamped 
near the fort in our usual form. 



BLACK HILLS. 69 



CHAPTER IV. 

Black Hills — day of indulgence — buffalo dance — the desire of Indians 
for instruction — met the chiefs in council — re-commenced our jour- 
ney for rendezvous — anthracite coal — species of wormwood — Red 
Bute- -traces of grizzly bears — geology — Rock Independence — 
Rocky Mountains — perpetual snow — valley through the mountains 
— " thunder spirits" gone — an alarm — waters of the Colorado. 

The Black Hills do not derive their name from any thing 
peculiar in the color of the soil and rocks of which they are 
composed, but are so called from being covered with shrubby 
cedars, which give them a dark appearance when seen * at 
a distance. The alluvial soil upon the rivers and in tKe 
valleys is very good, but upon the higher lands and hills, 
it is thin and rather barren, and in many parts full of stones, 
which are worn smooth by the action of water, and are of 
various kinds and forms. One spur of the Rocky Moun- 
tains is seen from -this pluce, which is forty or fifty miles 
distant, and is probably five thousand feet high. 

At this place the caravan halted, and according to imme--- 
morial usage, the men were allowed a "day of indulgence," 
as it is called, in which they drink ardent spirits as much as 
they please, and conduct as they choose. Not unfrequently 
the day terminates with a catastrophe of some kind, and 
to-day one of the company shot another with the full inten- 
tion to have killed him. The ball entered the back, and 
came out at the side. The wounded man exclaimed, " I am 
a dead man ;" but after a pause, said, " No, I am not hurt.'' 

The other immediately seized a rifle to finish the work, but 

7* 



70 BUFFALO DANCE. 

was prevented by the bystanders, who wrested it from him 
and discharged it into the air. 

July 28th. The day of indulgence being past, a quiet 
day succeeded. The exhilaration was followed by conse- 
quent relaxation, and the tide of spirits which arose so high 
yesterday, ebbed to-day proportionally low. The men were 
seen lounging about in listless idleness, and could scarcely 
be roused to the business of making repairs and arrange- 
ments for the long journey yet before us. The Indians were 
active, and manifested a disposition to be sociable and kind, 
and also to open a trade with us in various articles, such as 
moccasons, belts, and dressed skins ; and desired in return, 
knives, awls, combs, vermilion, &c. 

Although the nights were cool, yet the thermometer stood 
in the middle of the day at 98°, but the heat was relieved by 
the usual prairie winds. 

On the 29th, the Ogallallah Indians who accompanied us, 
had a buffalo and a dog dance, the real object of which I 
could not satisfactorily ascertain. Whether it was from 
some superstitious notion that their success in hunting de- 
pended on these rites, or whether the custom originated in 
the gratitude of their hearts for past successes, or more pro- 
bably as an amusement, or neither, I cannot tell. I wit- 
nessed the first mentioned ceremony, and was content to 
dispense with the latter. In the buffalo dance, a large num- 
ber of young men, dressed with the skins of the neck and 
head of buffalos with their horns on, moved round in a dan- 
cing march. They shook their heads, imitated the low bel- 
lowing of the buffalo, wheeled, and jumped. At the same 
time men and women sung a song, accompanied with the 
beating of a sort of drum. I cannot say I was much amused 
to see how well they could imitate brute beasts, while 



THE OGALLALLAHS. 71 

ignorant of God and salvation. The impressive enquiry 
was constantly on my mind, what will become of their 
immortal spirits ? Rational men imitating beasts, and old 
gray-headed men marshaling the dance ! and enlightened 
white men encouraging it by giving them intoxicating 
spirits, as a reward for their good performance. I soon 
retired, and was pleased to find that only a small number 
of the Indians took any part in the dance. 

An Indian whom I attempted to teach last Sabbath, came 
to me again to-day, and manifested that he wished me to 
instruct him. I endeavored to communicate to his mind 
some ideas of God, and sang the hymn, " Watchman, tell 
us of the night." He and those with him, shook hands with 
me as a token of their satisfaction, and left me. He soon 
returned, however, bringing others, that they too, might 
hear what he had heard with so much apparent pleasure, 
and they again shook hands with me. This was several 
times repeated. These Indians appear not only friendly to 
white men, but kind in their intercourse with each other, 
and in no instance did I witness any quarrels among them. 
Their minds are uncommonly gifted and noble, their per- 
sons are finely formed, and many of them are truly " na- 
ture's grenadiers." The women are graceful, and their 
voices are soft and expressive. I was agreeably surprised 
to see tall young chiefs, well dressed in their own mode, 
walking arm in arm with their ladies. This is what I 
had not expected to see among those whom we term 
" savages." It is true that they are heathen, in all the 
guilt of sin and destitute of the knowledge of God, and 
the hopes of the gospel, but in politeness and decency, as 
well as in many other respects, they are very unlike 
the frontier Indians, who have been corrupted and degra- 



7*2 COUNCIL WITH THE SIOtTX. 

ded by their acquaintance with ardent spirits, and wicked 
white men. 

On the 30th, I met in council with the chiefs of this tribe, 
to lay before them the object of our tour, and to know if 
they would wish to have missionaries sent among them to 
teach them to read and write, and especially how to worship 
God. They expressed much satisfaction with the proposal, 
and said they would do all they cOuld to make their condi- 
tion comfortable. There can be no doubt, that this commu- 
nity of the Sioux would be a promising field for laborers. 
They are inquisitive, and their language is distinct and 
sonorous. 

On the 31st, thermometer stood at 81°- 

August 1st. At half past eight in the morning, we re- 
commenced our journey, and the next point to which we di- 
rect our course is across the Rocky Mountains, where the 
general rendezvous will be held. Our wagons were left at 
the fort of the Black Hills, and all our goods were packed 
upon mules. Several of our company went out into various 
parts of the country to hunt and trap, but as many more 
joined us for the mountains, so that our number is not di- 
minished. Mr. Fontenelle stopped at the fort, and Mr. Fitz 
Patrick took his place in charge of the caravan. We had 
received during our journey to this place, many kind atten- 
tions from Mr. F. as well as the privilege of traveling un- 
der his protection, for which we offered him a remuneration, 
but he declined it, saying, "If any one is indebted, it is my- 
self, for you have saved my life, and the lives of my men." 
We shall gratefully remember their kindness. 

Sabbath, 2nd. I enjoyed some opportunities for devo- 
tional exercises, but felt the loss of the privileges of God's 
house: 



ANTHRACITE COAL. 73 

We found on the 3d but very little grass for our horses 
and mules, owing to three causes ; the sterility of the soil, 
the proximity of the snow-topped mountains, and the grazing 
of numerous herds of buffalos and antelopes. To save dis- 
tance in following the bends of the river, we passed to-day 
over rough and somewhat dangerous precipices. I had 
found, before I arrived at the Black Hills, some loose speci- 
mens of anthracite coal on the banks of streams, but to-day 
I found a regular " cropping out" of coal, the same to all 
appearances as I have seen in the coal basins of Pennsylva- 
nia. The existence of a coal basin here is also confirmed by 
indications of iron ore. Certainly an invaluable substance, 
should it prove abundant, to-the future inhabitants of a coun- 
try so destitute of other fuel. This was the first discovery of 
coal in this region. A range of mountains, a spur of which 
is seen from Larama's fork in the Black Hills, runs paral- 
lel with the river, ten or fifteen miles distant, and some of 
the peaks are very high. 

August 4th. The country was more level and fertile. 
I discovered more anthracite, indicating large quantities : 
also, in one place, yellow sand stone of remarkably fine tex- 
ture. It undoubtedly would answer an excellent purpose 
for polishing metals. A species of wormwood grows in 
great quantities in this region, where the soil is gravelly 
and barren. Some of it grows eight or ten feet high, and 
four or five inches in diameter, and is an obstruction to 
traveling. It is generally called wild sage. Scarcely any 
animal will taste it, unless compelled by extreme hunger. 
The prairie hen, however, crops the buds or leaves, which 
render its flesh bitter and unpalatable for food. I saw some 
granite to-day of a dark gray color, like the granite in parts 
of the Atlantic states. What I had seen before in boulders 



74 GRIZZLY BEARS. 

was of the red cast, like that which is found about Lake 
Superior. 

On the 5th, we arose at the first breaking of the day, and 
proceeded on our route, making forced marches through this 
barren region. Encamped towards night at a place called 
the Red Bute, which is a high bluff of land, resembling red 
ochre in color, but composed of clay somewhat indurated. 
This is a central place for Indians traveling east or west, 
north or south. Here the north-west branch of the Platte, 
along which we have been traveling, comes from a southern 
direction, the head of which is about one hundred and fifty 
miles distant. From the Red Bute we pass over to the Sweet- 
water, a branch of the Platte, which comes from the west. 
We saw to-day tracks of grizzly bears, which were perfect- 
ly fresh, and were indicative of their formidable size and 
strength. One with two large cubs passed out of some 
gooseberry and currant bushes near the river, as we pro- 
ceeded around to an open spot of ground for an encamping 
place. Lieut. S. of the dragoons, a man of undoubted ve- 
racity, told me he saw several buffalos passing near some 
bushes, where a grizzly bear lay concealed, and the bear 
with one stroke tore three ribs from a buffalo and laid it 
dead. It has been said, if you meet one of these bears, 
you must either kill him, or be killed ; but this is not true, 
unless you come upon them suddenly, or wound them. If 
you let them pass off unmolested, they will, in most cases, 
withdraw, showing that the fear of man is upon them as 
well as upon other beasts. 

August 6th. The geology of these regions is becoming 
more interesting, as we approach the mountains. I saw to- 
day, not only granite in situ, but also a quantity of the most 
beautiful serpentine I ever beheld. It was semi-transparent 



ROCK INDEPENDENCE. 75 

and of a deep green hue, very much resembling specimens 
of emerald which I saw in the mineralogical cabinet at 
New Haven. I regretted the necessity which a long jour- 
ney? yet before me, imposed of passing by opportunities for 
making collections. 

Passed Rock Independence, on the 7th. This is the first 
massive rock of that stupendous chain of mountains, which 
divides North America, and forms, together with its barrens 
on each side, a natural division. This rock takes its name 
from the circumstance of a company of fur traders suspend- 
ing their journey, and here observing, in due form, the an- 
niversary of our national freedom. It is an immensely huge 
rock of solid granite, entirely bare, and covering several 
acres. Advancing a little distance, we came to a stream 
of no inconsiderable size, which has its origin in the moun- 
tains, and to which the name of Sweetwater has been 
given on account of its purity. We followed up the course 
of this river for several days. In one place it passes a 
small branch of the mountains, through a narrow chasm 
only thirty or forty feet wide, and more than three hundred 
feet high. The caravan passed around the point of this 
mountain, and to obtain a better prospect of this natural 
curiosity, I left them and rode to it. A deep-toned roar 
is heard as the river dashes its way through the rocky pas- 
sage. The sight is soon intercepted by its winding course, 
and the darkness caused by the narrowness and deepness 
of the avenue. 

Passed to-day, several small lakes of crystalized epsom 
salt, from which the water in the drouth of summer is evap- 
orated. I rode into one of them to examine the quality and 
depth, but finding my horse sinking as in quicksand, I was 
glad to make a safe retreat. Whatever may be beneath, 



76 APPROACH TO THE MOUNTAINS. 

whether salt in a less solid state than on the surface, or 
quicksand, yet large quantities of good quality might be 
easily collected. 

The mountains are indeed rocky mountains. They are 
rocks heaped upon rocks, with no vegetation, excepting a few 
cedars growing out of the crevices near their base. Their 
tops are covered with perpetual snow, which are seen on 
our left and before us. As we advanced, the atmosphere 
was increasingly more chilling through the night and most 
of the day, excepting the middle, which to-day was very 
warm ; the thermometer standing at 84°. 

Sabbath, 9th. I endeavored to supply the absence of the 
privileges of the sanctuary and its ordinances, as well as I 
could by reading, and recalling to mind portions of the 
scriptures, hymns, and the doctrines of our excellent, but 
neglected catechism. One needs to be on heathen ground 
to realize the solitariness of absence from the social wor- 
ship, where 

11 The cheerful songs and solemn vows 
Make their communion sweet." 

On the 10th, cold winds were felt from the snow-topped 
mountains to an uncomfortable degree. The passage 
through these mountains is in a valley, so gradual in the 
ascent and descent, that I should not have known that we 
were passing them, had it not been that as we advanced the 
atmosphere gradually became cooler, and at length we saw 
the perpetual snows upon our right hand and upon our left, 
elevated many thousand feet above us — in some places ten 
or twelve thousand. The highest part of these mountains 
are found by measurement, to be eighteen thousand feet 
above the level of the sea. This valley was not discovered 
until some years since. Mr. Hunt and his party, more than 



THUNDER SPIRITS DEPARTED. 77 

twenty years ago, went near but did not find it, though in 
search of some favorable passage. It varies in width from 
two to fifteen miles ; and following its course, the distance 
through the mountains is from eighty to one hundred miles, 
or four days' journey. Though there are some elevations 
and depressions in this valley, yet comparatively speaking, 
it is level. There w r ould be no difficulty in the way of 
constructing a rail road from the Atlantic to the Pacific 
ocean ; and probably the time may not be very far distant, 
when trips will be made across the continent, as they have 
been made to the Niagara Falls, to see nature's wonders. 

In passing the Black Hills and the Rocky Mountains we 
heard none of those " successive reports resembling the 
discharge of several pieces of artillery," mentioned by 
some authors as common " in the most calm and serene 
weather, at all times of the day or night :" nor did we wit- 
ness " lightning and thunder, pealing from clouds gathering 
round the summits of the hills" or mountains. " The thun- 
der spirits, who fabricate storms and tempests," appear to 
have closed their labors, and the Indian tribes no longer 
" hang offerings on the trees to propitiate the invisible lords 
of the mountains." 

The geology presents some variety ; for while the main 
ridge of the mountains is granite, yet to-day parallel ridges 
of red secondary Sandstone have abounded. They appear 
to have been affected by heat ; and some elevating force 
has broken them into dyke-like ridges at different distances 
from each other, running from east north-east to west south- 
west. The strata are mostly vertical, but some have a 
slight dip to the south. 

We had an alarm, while we were encamped for noon, 
and the men were called to arms. They all rushed forth 



78 BIG SANDY RIVER. 

full of courage, rather stimulated than appalled by danger. 
Only one Indian made his appearance upon the hill, at the 
foot of which we were encamped. This was taken as an 
indication that others were near, which was the fact ; but 
he and they retreated. 

August 11th. The last night was very cold — we had a 
heavy frost with ice. A little before sunrise, the thermo- 
meter stood at 24°. Our early morning ride was not very 
comfortable for myself, and less so for some of our men 
who were not furnished with over-coats. Our horses and 
mules began to show that constant labor, without sufficient 
food, was not favorable to strength, and some of them failed . 
To-day we came to the Big Sandy river, one of the upper 
branches of the Colorado, which empties into the gulf of 
California. Along its banks are some Norway and pitch 
pine, and a very few small white pines, and clumps of com- 
mon poplar. In some of the low vales, there were beautiful 
little fresh roses, which bloomed amidst the desolations 
around. " How ornamental are the works of nature ! She 
seems to decorate them all, as if each spot was a garden, in 
which God might perchance walk, as once in Eden." 



THE RENDEZVOUS. 79 



CHAPTER V. 

Arrive at rendezvous — trappers and hunters — four Indian nations — ■ 
Flatheads and Nez Percys, no reason why so called — surgical ope- 
rations — an interview with the Flathead and Nez Perce" chiefs — 
their anxiety for religious instruction — return of Doct. Whitman — 
Shoshones and Utaws — mountain life. 

After stopping for the night upon the New Fork, a 
branch of Green river, we arose on the 12th, at the first 
breaking of the day, and continued our forced marches. 
Although we were emerging from the mountains, yet peaks 
covered with perpetual snow were seen in almost every di- 
rection, and the temperature of the air was uncomfortably 
cold. I found to-day some beautiful calcedony, of which I 
took a specimen, and also green stone, quartz, and trap in 
large quantities. In the afternoon, we came to the Green 
river, a branch of the Colorado, in latitude 42°, where the 
caravan hold their rendezvous. This is a widely extended 
valley, which is pleasant, with a soil sufficiently fertile for 
cultivation, if the climate was not so cold. Like the coun- 
try we have passed through, it is , almost entirely prairie, 
with some woods skirting the streams of water. 

The American Fur Company have between two and three 
hundred men constantly in and about the mountains, enga- 
ged in trading, hunting and trapping. These all assemble 
at rendezvous upon the arrival of the caravan, bring in their 
furs, and take new supplies for the coming year, of clothing, 
ammunition, and goods for trade with the Indians. But few of 



80 SURGICAL OPERATIONS. 

these men ever return to their country and friends. Most 
of them are constantly in debt to the company, and are un- 
willing to return without a fortune ; and year after year 
passes away, while they are hoping in vain for better success. 

Here were assembled many Indians belonging to four dif- 
ferent nations ; the Utaws, Shoshones, Nez Perces, and 
Flatheads, who were waiting for the caravan, to exchange 
furs, horses, and dressed skins, for various articles of mer- 
chandise. I was disappointed to see nothing peculiar in the 
Flathead Indians to give them their name. Who gave it 
them, or for what reason, is not known. The name given 
them by the Nez Perces, which is Sailep, does not signify 
flathead. Some suppose it was given them in derision for 
not flattening their heads, as the Chenooks and some other 
nations do, near the shores of the Pacific. It may be so, 
but how will those who indulge this imagination, account 
for the Nez Perces being so called, since they do not 
pierce their noses ? This name could not be given them 
in derision, because those near the Pacific, who flatten 
their heads, also pierce their noses. That those names 
have been given by white men, is evident, since they do 
not call each other by the names which signify either flat- 
head or pierced nose. 

While we continued in this place, Doct. Whitman was 
called to perform some very important surgical operations. 
He extracted an iron arrow, three inches long, from the 
back of Capt. Bridger, which was received in a skirmish, 
three years before, with the Blackfeet Indians. It was a 
difficult operation, because the arrow was hooked at the 
point by striking a large bone, and a cartilaginous substance 
had grown around it. The Doctor pursued the operation 
with great self-possession and perseverance; and his pa- 



AN INTERVIEW WITH THE CHIEFS. 81 

tient manifested equal firmness. The Indians looked on 
meanwhile, with countenances indicating wonder, and in 
their own peculiar manner expressed great astonishment 
when it was extracted. The Doctor also extracted another 
arrow from the shoulder of one of the hunters, which had 
been there two years and a half. His reputation becoming 
favorably established, calls for medical and surgical aid 
were almost incessant. 

After spending a few days in collecting and digesting in- 
formation in regard to this country and the condition of the 
people, we had an interesting interview with the chiefs of 
the Nez Perces and Flatheads, and- laid before them the ob* 
ject of our appointment, and explained to them the benevo^ 
lent desires of Christians concerning them. We then en- 
quired whether they wished to have teachers come among 
them and instruct them<-in<the knowledge of God, his wor- 
ship, and the way to be saved ; and what they would do to 
aid them in their labors. The oldest chief of the Flatheads 
arose, and said, " he was old, and did not- expect to know 
much more ; he was deaf and could not hear, but his heart 
was made glad, very glad* to see what he had never seen 
before, a man near to God," (meaning a minister of the 
gospel.) Next arose Insala, the most influential chief among" 
the Flathead nation, and said, " he had heard, that a 
man near to God was coming to visit them, and he, with 
some of his people, together with some white men, went 
out three days' journey to meet him, but failed of find- 
ing the caravan. A war party of Crow Indians came 
upon them in the night, and, after a short battle, though 
no lives were lost, they took away some of their horses, 

and one from him which he greatly loved, but now he 

8* 



82 dr. whitman's proposal. 

forgets all, his heart is made so glad to see a man near 
to God." 

The first chief of the Nez Perces, Tai-quin-su-watish, 
arose, and said, "he had heard from white men a little 
about God, which had only gone into his ears ; he wished to 
know enough to have it go down into his heart, to influence 
his life, and to teach his people." Others spoke to the same 
impojt, and they all made as many promises as we could 
desire. 

The Nez Perces and Flathead Indians present a promi- 
sing field for missionary labor, which is white for the har- 
vest, and the indications of divine providence in regard to 
it are plain, by their anxiety to obtain Christian knowledge- 
Taking the various circumstances under deliberate and 
prayerful consideration, in regard to these Indians, we came 
to the conclusion, that, though many other important sta- 
tions might be found, this would be one. So desirable did 
this object appear, that Dr. Whitman proposed to return 
with the caravan, and obtain associates to come out with him 
the next year, with the then returning caravan, and establish 
a mission among these people, and by so doing, save at least 
a year, in bringing the gospel among them. In view of the 
importance of the object, I readily consented to the proposal, 
and to go alone with the Indians the remainder of the explor- 
ing tour. Dr. Whitman, on further consideration, felt some 
misgivings about leaving me, lest, if any calamity should 
befall me, he should be blamed by the Christian public. It 
was my desire that no disquietude should be felt for me, for 
we could not safely go together without divine protection, 
and with it I was secure in any situation. This confidence 
inspired me with all the courage I needed, and composed my 



SHOSHONES. 83 

mind in regard to coming dangers, as it had sustained me 
under those that were past. 

Met with the chiefs again by appointment, and I stated to 
them the contemplated return of Dr. Whitman. They were 
much pleased, and promised to assist me, and to send a con- 
voy with me from their country to Fort Walla Walla, on 
the Columbia River. They selected one of their principal 
young men for my particular assistant, as long as I should 
have need of him, who was called Kentuc ; and I engaged 
a voyageur, who understood English, and also the Nez 
Perce language sufficiently well to interpret common busi- 
ness, and some of the plain truths of our holy religion, to go 
with me while I should continue with these tribes. 

We did not call together the chiefs of the Shoshones and 
Utaws, to propose to them the subject of missions, lest we 
should excite expectations which would not soon be fulfilled. 
We were the more cautious upon this subject, because it is 
difficult to make an Indian understand the difference be- 
tween a proposal and a promise. The Shoshones are a very 
numerous nation, and appear friendly. They are probably 
the most destitute of the necessaries of life of any Indians 
west of the mountains. Their country lies south-west of the 
south-east branch of the Columbia, and is said to be the most 
barren of any part of the country in these western regions. 
They are often called Snakes and Root Diggers, from being 
driven to these resorts to sustain life ; and parts of the year 
they suffer greatly from hunger and cold. They are more 
squalid than any Indians I have seen ; but their poverty 
does not lessen their need of salvation through Christ. 
The Utaws are decent in appearance, and their country, 
which is toward Santa Fe, is said to be tolerably good. 



84 MOUNTAIN LIFE. 

A few days after our arrival at the place of rendezvous, 
and when all the mountain men had assembled, another day 
of indulgence was granted to them, in which all restraint 
was laid aside. These days are the climax of the hunter's 
happiness. I will relate an occurrence which took place 
near evening, as a specimen of mountain life. A hunter, 
who goes technically by the name of the great bully of the 
mountains, mounted his horse with a loaded rifle, and chal- 
lenged any Frenchman, American, Spaniard, or Dutchman, 
to fight him in single combat. Kit Carson, an American, 
told him if he wished to die, he would accept the challenge. 
Shunar defied him. C. mounted his horse, and with a load- 
ed pistol, rushed into close contact, and both almost at the 
same instant fired. C's ball entered S's hand, came out at 
the wrist, and passed through the arm above the elbow. 
Shunar's ball passed over the head of Carson ; and while 
he went for another pistol, Shunar begged that his life might 
be spared. Such scenes, sometimes from passion,. and some- 
times for amusement, make the pastime of their wild and 
wandering life. They appear to have sought for a place 
where, as they would say, human nature is not oppressed 
by the tyranny of religion, and pleasure is not awed by the 
frown of virtue. The fruits are visible in all the varied 
forms to which human nature, without the restraints of civil 
government, and cultivated and polished society, may be 
supposed to yield. In the absence of all those motives, 
which they would feel in moral and religious society, re- 
finement, pride, a sense of the worth of character, and even 
conscience, give place to unrestrained dissoluteness. Their 
toils and privations are so great, that they more readily com- 
pensate themselves by plunging into such excesses, as in 






DEMORALIZING INFLUENCES. 85 

their mistaken judgment of things, seem most adapted to give 
them pleasure. They disdain the common-place phrases of 
profanity which prevail among the impious vulgar in civil- 
ized countries, and have many set phrases, which they ap- 
pear to have manufactured among themselves, and which, 
in their imprecations, they bring into almost every sentence 
and on all occasions. By varying the tones of their voices, 
they make them expressive of joy, hope, grief, and anger. 
In their broils among themselves, which do not happen every 
day, they would not be ungenerous. They would see " fair 
play/' and would "spare the last eye \" and would not tole- 
rate murder, unless drunkenness or great provocation could 
be pleaded in extenuation. 

Their demoralizing influence with the Indians has been 
lamentable, and they have practiced impositions upon them, 
in all the ways that sinful propensities dictate. It is said 
they have sold them packs of cards at high prices, calling 
them the Bible ; and have told them, if they should refuse 
to give white men wives, God would be angry with them 
and punish them eternally ; and on almost any occasion 
when their wishes have been resisted, they have threatened 
them with the wrath of God. If these things are true in 
many instances, yet from personal observation, I should be- 
lieve, their more common mode of accomplishing their wish- 
es has been by flattery and presents ; for the most of them 
squander away their wages in ornaments for their women 
and children. 

During our stay, I witnessed a scene of mourning among 
the Shoshones, on the occasion of the death of a chief 
who was killed by the Rapahoes, the news of which had 
but just arrived. The women made loud lamentations, 



86 FROSTY NIGHTS. 

cut and disfigured . themselves, until the blood ran down 
their faces and scantily clad bodies. 

The Indians, with whom I am to travel, having appoint- 
ed the 21st to commence the journey for their country, a 
few days were occupied in writing to my family, the Amer- 
ican Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, and 
other friends ; and also in making preparations for my jour- 
ney to Walla Walla. While we continued in this place, 
though in the middle of the day it was warm, yet the nights 
were frosty, and ice was frequently formed. 



DEPARTURE OF D0CT. WHITMAN. 87 



CHAPTER VI. 

Part with my associate — arrive at head waters of the Columbia — kind, 
ness of the Indians — narrow defile — geology — Jackson's Hole — wild 
flax — trappers go out on a hunt — mountain prospect — Trois Tetons 
— danger from affrighted buffalo — Pierre's Hole — Volcanic chasm — 
children on horseback — interesting worship with the Indians — bu- 
rial of a child — scarcity of food — a timely supply — Salmon river — 
expected battle — geological observations — scene of mourning. 

August 21st, commenced our journey in company with 
Capt. Bridger, who goes with about fifty men, six or eight 
days' journey on our route. Instead of going down on the 
south-west side of Lewis' river, we concluded to take our 
course northerly for the Trois Tetons, which are three very 
high mountains, covered with perpetual snow, separated 
from the main chain of the Rocky Mountains, and are seen 
at a very great distance ; and from thence to Salmon river. 
Went only about three miles from the place of rendezvous, 
and encamped. 

On the 22d, I parted with Doct. Whitman, who returned 
to the caravan, and with them to the United States. My 
anxious desire was, that the Lord would go with him and 
make his way prosperous, and make him steadfast to the 
object of his return, until it should be accomplished ; and 
that, with next year's caravan, he might come with asso- 
ciates into this promising field, and with them reap a plen- 
tiful harvest. To-day we traveled twenty miles, through 
a somewhat barren country, and down several steep de- 
scents, and arrived at what is called Jackson's Hole, and 



88 PUBLIC WORSHIP. 

encamped upon a small stream of water, one of the upper 
branches of the Columbia river. It was interesting to find 
myself, for the first time, upon the waters of this noble river . 
The Indians were very attentive to all my wants — took the 
entire care of my packed animals, cooking, &c. They pre- 
serve particular order in their movements. The first chief 
leads the way, the next chiefs follow, then the common men, 
and after these the women and children. The place assign- 
ed me was with the first chief. 

Found some buffalo to-day, of which our men killed a 
small number. These furnished a timely supply, as our 
provisions were becoming scarce. The principal chief of 
the Flatheads kindly furnished me with a horse to relieve 
mine. 

Sabbath, 23d. Had an opportunity for rest and devotion- 
al exercises. In the afternoon we had public worship with 
those of the company who understood English. The men 
conducted with great propriety, and listened with attention. 
I did not feel any disposition to upbraid them for their sins, 
but endeavored affectionately to show them, that they are 
unfit for heaven, and that they could not be happy in the em- 
ployments of that holy place, unless they should first expe- 
rience a great moral change of heart by the grace of God, 
since the only source of happiness in heaven consists in 
serving and glorifying God forever. The place of our en- 
campment was such as would naturally fill the mind with 
solemnity — just above a very deep and narrow defile which 
we had to pass, called by the hunters Kenyan. So high 
were the mountains, that some of them were tipped with 
perpetual snow, and so narrow the passage, that twilight 
shades obscured the view. The distance through must oc- 
cupy more than a half day's journey. 



A DANGEROUS PASS GEOLOGY. 89 

Arose very early on the 24th, and commenced our way 
through the narrow defile, frequently crossing and re-cross- 
ing a large stream of water which flows into the Snake river. 
The scenery is wild and in many parts sublime—moun- 
tains of rock, almost perpendicular, shooting their heads up 
into the regions of perpetual snow, and in one place project- 
ing over our path, if a zigzag trail can be called a path. 
Often we had to pass over the sides of mountains, which in- 
clined at an angle of 45° towards the stream of water below, 
and down which packed mules have fallen, and been dashed 
upon the rocks. I endeavored to guide my Indian horse so 
cautiously that he became unmanageable, being resolved to 
have his own method of choosing the way. I was under the 
necessity of dismounting and making the best of my way. 
But on farther acquaintance with Indian horses, I learned 
that their dashing mode of going ahead, even in dangerous 
places, was preferable to the most cautious management of 
the American. 

For some miles there was Sandstone in ridges at equal 
distances of six or eight rods apart, and from six to ten feet 
wide, rising a little above the surface of the earth, running 
from south-east to north-west ; laying in strata dipping to 
the west at an angle of 60°. At some distance I observed 
?c mountain of red earth of similar character, excepting that 
the strata dipped to the east at an angle of 40°. In one 
place where the strata of rocks and earth were in waves 
nearly horizontal, a section a few rods wide, of a wedge 
form, had its waving strata in a perpendicular position, as 
though the mountain had been rent asunder, and the chasm 
filled with the perpendicular wedge. A great diversity of 
the strata of rocks and earth prevailed in every part. To- 
wards the last of the way through this narrow defile we 



92 M MOUNTAIN PROSPECT. 

would find their graves in the mountains, my heart was 
pained for them, and especially at their thoughtlessness 
about the great things of the eternal world. I gave each of 

DO O 

them a few tracts, for which they appeared grateful, and 
said they would be company for them in their lonely hours ; 
and as they rode away, I could only pray for their safety 
and salvation. 

During our continuance here, I took an Indian for an as- 
sistant, and ascended one of the highest mountains in the 
vicinity, to view the surrounding country. The prospect 
was as extensive as the eye could peach, diversified with 
mountains, hills, plains, and valleys. Most of the mountains 
were covered with woods ; but the plains and valleys were 
covered with grass, presenting less of bright green, however, 
than might be expected where the summer is favored with 
dews and rains. But the whole was a scene of perfect en- 
chantment. About sixty miles to the east the Rocky moun- 
tains lay stretched through the whole extent of vision, spread 
out like luminous clouds in the horizon ; their summits so 
elevated, that no soil ever rises to sully the pure whiteness 
of their everlasting snows, and tinged and mellowed with a 
golden hue by the rays of the sun. Not very far to the 
north, the Trois Tetons, a cluster of high pointed mountains, 
covered with perpetual snow, rising ten thousand feet almost 
perpendicularly, were distinctly visible, with two others of 
the same form, but of less magnitude. Only three of the 
cluster are so high as to be seen at a very great distance. 
Here I spent much time in looking over the widely extended 
and varied scenery, sometimes filled with emotions of the 
sublime, in beholding the towering mountains ; sometimes 
with pleasure in tracing the windings of the streams in the 
vale below; and these sensations frequently gave place to 



A MOUNTAIN PROSPECT. 93 

astonishment, in viewing the courses in which the rivers flow 
on their way, unobstructed by mountain barriers. After 
some hours occupied in this excursion, I descended to the 
encampment much gratified with what I had seen of the 
works of God. The soil in this valley and upon the hills, 
is black and rich, and the time will come, when the solitude 
which now prevails will be lost in the lowing of herds and 
bleating of flocks, and the plough will cleave the clods of these 
hills and vales ; and from many altars will ascend the in- 
cense of prayer and praise. After I returned, Tai-quin-su- 
wa-tish took me to his company of horses and gave me one 
in token of his friendship, and probably not without the mo- 
tive to enlist me in his favor. The horse was finely made, 
and of the beautiful color of intermixed cream and white. 

On the 28th, we pursued our journey and passed over a 
mountain so high, that banks of snow were but a short 
distance from our trail. When we had ascended two-.thirds 
of the way, a number of buffalo, which were pursued by our 
Indians, came rushing down the side of the mountain through 
the midst of our company. One ran over a horse, on the 
back of which was a child, and threw the child far down 
the descent, but providentially it was not materially injured, 
Another ran over a packed horse, and wounded it deeply hi' 
the shoulder. The buffalo are naturally timid, yet when 
they have laid their course, and being affrighted are run- 
ning at full speed, it is seldom they change their direction., 
whatever obstacles may be in their way. 

I noticed nothing particularly new in geology, excepting 
upon the higher parts of these mountains, granite of very 
light color. Our descent was through woods more dense 
than those on the other side, and the most dense of any for- 
ests since we left the waters of the Missouri. Many parts. 

9* 



94 Pierre's hole. 

of the descent were of almost impassable steepness; and 
part of the way down a rough deep ravine, a stream of 
water commences, and increasing from springs and rivulets 
to considerable magnitude, winds its way through the valley 
of Pierre's Hole ; in the upper part of which we made our 
encampment among willows, in the prairie vale. 

On the 29th, we removed our -encampment, and traveled 
five hours along this valley to the place, where two years 
before, two fur companies held their rendezvous. Pierre's 
Hole is an extensive level country, of rich soil, weir water- 
ed by branches of Lewis' river, and is less frosty than any 
part we have passed this side the rocky chain of mountains. 
The valley is well covered with grass, but is deficient in 
woodland, having only a scanty supply of cotton-wood and 
willows scattered along the streams. It extends around to 
the north-west, as far as the eye can reach. We expected 
to hare found buffalo here, but saw none. As parties of 
Blackfeet warriors often range this way, it was probable 
they had lately been here and frightened them away. Be- 
tween this and our last encampment, I was shown the place 
where the men of the fur companies, at the time of their 
rendezvous two years before, had a battle with the Black- 
feet Indians. Of the Blackfeet party there were about sixty 
men, and more than the same number of women and chil- 
dren ; of the white men in the valley, there were some few 
hundred who could be called into action. From the infor- 
mation given me, it appeared that these Indians were on 
their way through this valley, and unexpectedly met about 
forty hunters and trappers going out from rendezvous to the 
south-west on their fall and; winter hunt. These Indians 
manifested an unwillingness to fight, and presented tokens 
of peace ; but they were not reciprocated. Those who came 






THE" BATTLE OF PIERRE'S HOLE. 95 

forward to stipulate terms of peace were fired upon and 
killed. When the Indians saw their danger, they fled to 
the cotton-wood trees and willows which were scattered 
along the stream of water, and, taking advantage of some 
fallen trees, constructed as good" defense as time and cir- 
cumstances would permit. They were poorly provided with 
guns, and were still more destitute of ammunition. The 
trappers keeping out of the reach of their arrows, and being 
well armed with the best of rifles, made the contest unequal ; 
and it became still more unequal, when, by an express sent 
to rendezvous, they were reinforced by veterans in moun- 
tain life. The hunters keeping at a safe distance, in the 
course of a few hours killed several of the Indians, and al- 
most all their horses, which, in their situation, could not be 
protected, while they themselves suffered but small loss. 
Those killed, on both sides, have been differently stated, but 
considering the numbers engaged, and the length of time the 
skirmishing continued, it could not have been a bloody bat- 
tle ; and not much to' the honor of civilized Americans. 
The excuse made for forcing the Blackfeet into battle is, 
that if they had come upon a small party of trappers, they 
would have butchered them and seized upon the plunder. 
If heathen Blackfeet would have done so, civilized white 
men should not. What a noble opportunity was here af- 
forded for our American citizens to have set an example of 
humanity. 

When night approached, the hunters retired to their en- 
campment at the place of rendezvous, and the Indians made 
their escape. Thus the famous battle of Pierre's Hole 
began and ended.* 

* Since my return, I have seen an account of this battle, written by 
a graphic hand, in all the fascinating style of romance, representing 



96 THE TEN COMMANDMENTS* 

I attended worship this evening with the chiefs, and as 
many as could assemble in one of their lodges, and explain- 
ed to them the ten commandments — and after showing them 
their sin in their transgression of God's" holy law, pointed 
them to the Savior, and endeavored to make them under- 
stand the way of salvation. My method of instructing 
them was to give the first chief the first commandment, by 
repeating it, until he could repeat it ; and the second com- 
mandment to another chief in the same way, and so on 
through the ten, with directions for them to retain what was 
given to each, and to teach their people ; and the same 
manner was pursued with other parts of divine truth ; in- 
forming them, that at our next assembling, I shall examine 
them to see if they rightly understood, and retained what I 
committed to each. And on examination, in no case did I 
find more than one material mistake. I also found that 
they took much pains to communicate instruction to each 
other. 

the Indians as having entrenched themselves in a swamp, so densely 
wooded as to be almost impenetrable ; and there they kept the trap- 
pers at bay, until they were reinforced from rendezvous. When the 
Blackfeet saw the whole valley alive with horsemen, rushing to the 
field of action, they withdrew into the dark tangled wood. When the 
leaders of the several hunting parties came into the field, they urged 
their men to enter the swamp, but they hung back in awe of the dis- 
mal honors of the place, regarding it impenetrable and full of danger. 
But the leaders would not be turned from their purpose — made their 
wills — appointed their executors — grasped their rifles, and urged their 
way through the woods, A brisk fire was opened, and the Blackfeet 
were completely overmatched, but would not leave their fort, nor offer 
to surrender. The numerous veteran mountaineers, well equipped, did 
not storm the breastwork, even when the Blackfeet had spent their 
powder and balls, but only kept up the bloody battle by occasional firing 
during the day. The Blackfeet in the night effected their retreat ; 
and the brave mountaineers assembled their forces in the morning, 
and entered the fort without opposition. 

With those who have seen the field of battle, the glowing descrip- 
tion, drawn out in long detail, loses its interest ; for although I saw 
it, yet I did not see dense woods, nor a swamp of any magnitude any 
where near. 



VOLCANIC CHASM. 97 

In this place I parted with Captain Bridger and his party, 
who went north-east into the mountains to their hunting 
ground, which the Blackfeet claim, and for which they will 
contend. The first chief of the Flatheads and his family, 
with a few of his people, went with Captain Bridger, that 
they might continue within the range of buffalo through the 
coming winter. 

The Nez Perces, and the Flatheads, with whom I go, 
take a north-west direction for Salmon river, beyond which 
is their country. Our encampment for the Sabbath was 
well chosen for safety against any war parties of Blackfeet 
Indians, near a small stream of water running through a 
volcanic chasm, one hundred feet deep, and in most places 
perpendicular. We were on the west side of the chasm, 
with a narrow strip of wood on every other side. Here 
was a passage made for the water by fire. The courses, 
which are formed for the rivers, as forcibly prove the cre- 
ating and directing hand of God, as the design manifested 
in the organic part of creation ; and I would as unwillingly 
account for the positions of mountains, and valleys, and the 
channels of rivers, by natural phenomena, without inclu- 
ding the power and design of God, as for the formation of 
plants and animals. It is true, there is more minute and 
curious organization in the one than in the other, but in 
both the wisdom and power of God are manifest. 

This day of rest, to a weary traveler, is peculiarly re- 
freshing, and it seemed as though the Sabbath was designed 
especially for persons in such circumstances. It was, to 
my mind, a type of the final rest of the spirit when it shall 
return to God, after the toils of its present brief existence 
are done. I read with new satisfaction, the Epistle to the 
Hebrews, and committed again myself and family, the 



98 CHILDREN ON HORSEBACK. 

church, and the world of mankind, to God. It was pleas- 
ant to reflect on the promise of the scriptures, that the king- 
doms of this world shall become the kingdoms of the Lord 
and of his Christ, and he shall reign forever ; and that the 
time will come, when all shall know the Lord, and God 
shall be merciful to their unrighteousness, and their sins 
and iniquities he will remember no more. 

Monday, 31st. While the Indians were packing and pre- 
paring to leave this encampment, I went and examined the 
volcanic chasm. It is many miles in length, and narrow, 
in proportion to its depth ; formed of basaltic colums in 
many places, and in others of amygdaloid. I found many 
large and fine specimens of pure obsidian, or volcanic glass 
— much lava and vitrified stones. I took some small speci- 
mens. In the vicinity around, there was clinkstone in great 
abundance, which, when struck by the horses hoofs, gave 
a metallic sound. The soil is black, and appears to be 
formed of decomposed lava, and is covered with a nutritious 
grass. 

The Indians are very kind to ea/m other, and if one meets 
with any disaster, the others will wait and assist him. 
Their horses often turn their packs, and run, plunge and 
kick, until they free themselves from their burdens. Yes- 
terday a horse turned his saddle under him upon which a 
child was fastened, and started to run, but those near hover- 
ed at once around with their horses so as to enclose him, 
and the child was extricated without injury. When I saw 
the condition of the child, I had no expectation that it could 
be saved alive. This was the second case of the kind which 
had occurred since I had been traveling with these Indians. 
They are so well supplied with horses, that every mam 
woman, and child, is mounted on horseback, and all their 



CHILDREN ON HORSEBACK. 99 

possessions are packed upon horses. Small children, not 
more than three years old, are mounted alone, and gene- 
rally upon colts. They are lashed upon the saddle to keep 
them from falling when they sleep, which they often do 
when they become fatigued. They then recline upon the 
horses shoulders ; and when they awake, lay hold of the 
whip, which is fastened to the wrist of their right hand, and 
apply it smartly to their horses ; and it is astonishing to 
see how these little creatures will guide and run them. 
Children which are still younger, are put into an encase- 
ment made with a board at the back and a wicker work 
around the other parts, covered with cloth within and with- 
out, or, more generally, with dressed skins : and are carried 
upon the mothers' back, 01 suspended from a high knob upon 
the fore part of their saddles. 

As we recede from the mountains the climate becomes 
warmer. We encamped upon another tributary of the Co- 
lumbia. Tai-quin-su-wa-tish, the principal chief of the 
Nez Perces, came to me and requested me to meet in his 
lodge a number of his people who had separated, husbands 
from their wives, and wives from their husbands, and ex- 
plain to them what God had said upon the subject. I rea- 
dily consented, and was the more pleased with the proposal 
as it was without any suggestion from myself, but the result 
of his own reflections upon what I had before said in explain- 
ing the ten commandments. When they were assembled, 
I read to them about the relative duties of husbands and 
wives, and of parents and children. I commented upon the 
subject, and told them that when they marry it must be for 
life. All but two agreed to go back to their former hus- 
bands and wives. It was interesting to see that they are rea- 
dy to practice instructions as soon as received. The chief 



100 FEARS OF BLACKFEET. 

said they desired me to instruct them in all that God has 
commanded ; for they wish to do right. After I left them, 
they stayed a long time in the lodge of the chief, whieh was 
near my tent, and I heard them conversing on the subject 
until I went to sleep, which was at a late hour. They all 
shook hands with me when I left them, and said my words 
were " tois" (good.) 

Tuesday, September 1st. We pursued our journey to- 
day only about four hours. Crossed Henry's Fork, another 
branch of Lewis' river, which is itself a river of some mag- 
nitude, about twenty rods wide in this place, and fordable 
only when the water is low. After proceeding a few miles 
down on the north side, we encamped at an early hour in 
a spot upon the bank of the river, surrounded by cotton- 
wood with a dense growth of shrubbery. Our fears of 
meeting a war party of Blackfeet Indians, were increased 
by seeing three Indians pass who were strangers to us. 
Some of the chiefs went through our encampment and ha- 
rangued the people, the object of which was to be prepared 
for defending themselves against an attack, should any en- 
emies appear. We were preserved in safety through the 
night, and arose on the morning of the second and went on 
our way, and performed a journey of twenty-two miles over 
a barren section of country. The surface is composed of 
quartose sand, intermixed with disintegrated amygdaloid, 
basalt, and obsidian. In some places were large excava- 
tions, plainly indicative of ancient volcanoes, which had 
spread out their melted contents in a level plain of hard 
lava, or amygdaloid, without forming cones. In other pla- 
ces there were conical rocks of different magnitudes at the 
base, and of different height — none perhaps over the diame- 
ter of three rods at the base and sixty feet high. They 



INVITATION TO FORT HALL. 101 

were universally divided in the centre, as though an explo- 
sion had taken place after they were hardened. At some 
distance from us were several hills, rising in high cones 
some hundred feet — two of them I should judge to be not 
far from three thousand feet high. I did not have an oppor- 
tunity of examining their geological formation. 

We arrived at evening at a small branch of the Salmon 
river, which was the first water we had found through the 
day, and upon which was good grass for our horses. Here 
Kentuc, my Indian, caught some excellent trout, which was 
a very grateful change of food. 

Our progress during the next day was through a barren 
tract, as yesterday, where there is no vegetation except 
wormwood, which grows very large. A sluggish stream 
bordered with willows, afforded us some conveniences for 
stopping at night. Thermometer, at noon, 65°. 

We traveled on the fourth, five hours, and encamped by 
a stream of water, in Cote's defile, which comes out of the 
mountains and is lost in the barren plains below. Cote's 
defile passes through a range of high mountains, and some 
of their summits are covered with snow. Most of the day 
was uncomfortably cold with snow-squalls. Thermometer, 
at noon, 54°. 

Friday, 4th. To-day I received a letter from Fort Hall, 
containing an invitation from Mr. A. Baker to spend the 
winter with him ; but the object for which I had passed 
the Rocky Mountains required me to pursue my tour, and 
if possible to reach the Pacific Ocean, and to return to Fort 
Vancouver before winter. We providentially learned that 
a large band of Nez Perces was a few miles below us, and 
would come to us to-morrow. We had become almost des- 
titute of provisions, but to-day killed a few buffalo. 

10 



102 CHARLIE, A NEZ PERCE CHIEF 

The morning of the 5th was very cold. We continued 
in our encampment, to give the band of Nez Perces an op- 
portunity to join us, and about the middle of the day they 
came ; the principal chief marching in front with his aid, 
carrying an American flag by his side. They all sung a 
march, while a, few beat a sort of drum. As they drew 
near they displayed columns, and made quite an imposing 
appearance. The women and children followed in the rear. 
Tai-quin-su-wa-tish, and other chiefs, arranged their people 
in the same order and went out to meet them ; and when 
we had approached within ten rods of each other, all halted, 
and a salute was fired, in which I had to take the lead. 
They then dismounted, and both bands formed into single 
file, and meeting, shook hands with me and each other in 
token of friendship, and to express their joy to see one come 
among them to teach them respecting God and salvation. 
The principal chief of the other band who is called Charlie, 
and is the first chief of the Nez Perce nation, is a good look- 
ing man, his countenance rather stern, intelligent, and ex- 
pressive of much decision of character. I never saw joy 
expressed in a more dignified manner, than when he took 
me firmly by the hand and welcomed me. 

In the afternoon I took Kentuc and rode five miles to see 
a prominence of interesting appearance. It is detached 
from the main mountain, stands on a plain upon the east side 
of Cote's defile, is about a half mile in circumference at the 
base, and rises up abruptly, having most of its west side 
perpendicular. It is more than two hundred feet high, and 
has a level horizontal summit of eighty rods long, north 
and south, and twenty rods wide. The large quantities of 
lava and amygdaloid which mainly compose it, furnish 



A SANCTUARY IN THE WILDERNESS. 105 

plain evidence of its having been fused and thrown up by- 
subterranean fires. 

In the evening I met the chiefs, and as many as could 
assemble in the lodge, and explained to those whom I had 
not seen before, the object of my mission. Charlie, the first 
chief, arose and spoke with much good sense for some time 
— mentioned his ignorance, his desire to know more about 
God, and his gladness of heart to see one who can teach 
him ; and said, " I have been like a little child, uneasy, 
feeling about in the dark after something, not knowing 
what ; but now I hope to learn something which will be 
substantial, and which will help me to teach my people to 
do right." I told them to-morrow would be the Sabbath ; 
and explained to them the nature of the institution, and their 
obligation to remember and keep it holy. They expressed 
their desire to obey, and said they would not remove camp, 
but attend to the worship of God. Providentially there 
came to us this afternoon a good interpreter from Fort Hall, 
who was willing to remain with us over Sabbath, so that 
to-morrow I shall be able to preach to the people. 

Sabbath, 6th. Early this morning one of the oldest 
chiefs went about among the people, and with a loud voice 
explained to them the instructions given last evening ; told 
them it was the Sabbath, and they must prepare for public 
worship. About eight in the morning, some of the chiefs 
came to me and asked where they should assemble. 1 en- 
quired if they could not be accommodated under the shade 
of the willows, which skirted the stream of water on which 
we were encamped. They thought they could not on ac- 
count of their numbers. I then enquired if they could not 
take the poles of some of their lodges and construct a shade ; 
and without any other directions they went and made pre- 



104 AN INTERESTING AUDIENCE. 

paration, and before eleven o'clock came and said they 
were ready for worship. I found them all assembled, men, 
women, and children, between four and five hundred, in 
what I would call a sanctuary of God, constructed with 
their lodges, nearly one hundred feet long and about twenty 
feet wide ; and all were arranged in rows, through the 
length of the building upon their knees, with a narrow space 
in the middle, lengthwise, resembling an aisle. The whole 
area within was carpeted with their dressed skins, and they 
were all in their best attire. The chiefs were arranged in 
a semicircle at the end which I was to occupy. I could 
not have believed they had the means, or could have known 
how to erect so convenient and so decent a place for wor- 
ship, and especially as it was the first time they had ever 
had public worship. The whole sight affected me, and 
filled me with admiration ; and I felt as though it was the 
douse of God and the gate of heaven. 

They all continued in a kneeling position during singing 
and prayer, and when I closed prayer with Amen, they all 
said what was equivalent in their language, to Amen. And 
when I commenced sermon, they seated themselves back 
upon their heels. I stated to them the original condition of 
man when first created, his fall, and the ruined and sinful 
condition of all mankind ; the law of God, and that all are 
Transgressors of this law and as such are exposed to the 
wrath of God, both in this life and the life to come ; and 
then told them of the mercy of God in giving his Son to die 
for us, and of the love of the Savior, and that though he de- 
sires our salvation, he will not save us unless we hate sin 
and put our trust in him, and love and obey him with all 
our heart. I also endeavored to show them the necessity 
of renovation of heart by the power and grace of the Holv 



AN INDIAN BURIAL. 105 

Spirit. Told them they must pray to God for the forgive- 
ness of their sins and for salvation. They gave the utmost 
attention, and entire stillness prevailed, excepting, when 
some truth arrested their minds forcibly, a little humming 
sound passed through the whole assembly, occupying two 
or three seconds. 

I never spoke to a more interesting assembly, and would 
not have changed my audience for any other upon earth ; 
and I felt that it was worth a journey across the Rocky 
Mountains, to enjoy this one opportunity with these heathen 
who are so anxious to obtain a knowledge of God. I hope 
that in the last day it will be found that good was done in 
the name of Jesus. If Christians could have witnessed this 
day's service, it would have enlisted their sympathies, and 
they would be willing to do something adequate to the con- 
version of these perishing souls* 

An Indian boy about sixteen years old, who belonged to 
the band which joined us yesterday, died this morning. He 
was speechless when he was brought here. We attended 
his funeral in the afternoon. They buried him in a very 
decent manner, without any heathen rites, excepting that 
they buried with him all his clothes and blankets. I ad- 
dressed the people at the grave upon the subject of the re- 
surrection and of the judgment. This was entirely new 
to them and very interesting. Tai-quin-su-wa-tish came to 
my tent towards evening, and said, what I had said was 
" tois" it was spiritual, and now he knew more about God. 
So deep was the interest awakened by the few ideas their 
benighted minds had obtained of this most precious truth of 
our religion, that they came to my tent after I had retired 
to rest, and awakened me, to go and converse still farther 

with them on the subject. 

10* 



106 INDIAN HOSPITALITY, 

Monday, 7th. We traveled five hours to-day. The In- 
dians make slow progress in traveling with their village ; 
for it takes them a long time to pack and unpack, to set up 
• and take down their lodges. This is, however, of little 

consequence to them ; for wherever they are, that place is 
their home. 

They are very kind, and manifest their kindness in anti- 
cipating all, and more than all my wants, which they have 
the power to supply. They consult me upon all their im- 
portant business, and are ready to follow my counsels. 
They are attentive to furnish little comforts. If the sun 
shines with much warmth into my tent, they will cut green 
bushes and set them up for shade. A few days since, 
we encamped where there were some fragrant plants of a 
species of mint, and the wife of Tai-quin-su-wa-tish, with a 
few other women, collected a quantity, and strewed them 
in my tent. 

We passed to-day mountains of volcanic rocks, and over 
a more rich, black soil, where we found a good supply of 
grass for our horses at night. 

Our route, on the 8th, was continued as usual. My health 
hitherto, since I commenced my journey, has been uninter- 
ruptedly good until to-day, when I suffered a slight attack 
of inflammation of the lungs, in consequence of a cold. 

The Indian mode of living is very precarious, and yet 
they are seldom anxious about the future. When they have 
a plenty, they are not sparing ; and when they are in want, 
they do not complain. The Indians at this time were al- 
most destitute of provisions, and we were approaching the 
Salmon river mountains, to pass over which occupies be- 
tween twelve and fifteen days, and where there are no buf- 
falo and scarcely any other game. I felt a prayerful con- 



SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS TIMELY SUPPLY. 10? 

cern for them, that God would send a supply before we 
should get beyond the range of buffalo, and was confident 
that we should experience the truth of His word, that he 
provides for all their meat in due season ; and as the cattle 
upon the thousand hills are his, he would not withhold his 
providential care from us. 

We continued to pass basaltic mountains; and also 
passed some very white marl clay, which the Indians use 
for cleansing their robes and other garments made of dress- 
ed skins. 

Their mode of doing this is to make the clay into a paste, 
and rub it upon the garments, and when it becomes dry 
they rub it off, which process leaves the garment soft, clean, 
and white. We encamped to-day where the Indians had 
before made an encampment, a little below a steep bank. 
Near night I was alarmed by shouts of Indians and a gen- 
eral rush up the bank. I hastened up and saw great num- 
bers running towards our camp. It proved to be a foot 
race, such as they frequently exercise themselves in, for 
the purpose of improving their agility. 

September 9th, I was more unwell. To-day we unex- 
pectedly saw before us a large band of buffalo, and halted 
to make preparation for the chase. The young men and 
all the good hunters prepared themselves, selected the 
swiftest horses, examined the few guns they had, and took 
a supply of arrows with their bows. Our condition was 
such, that it seemed that our lives almost depended upon 
their success. And while they were preparing, I could not 
but offer prayer to God, that he would in mercy give them 
judgment, skill, and success. They advanced towards the 
herd of buffalo with great caution, lest they should frighten 
them before they could make a near approach ; and also to 



106 INDIAN HOSPITALITY. 

Monday, 7th. We traveled five hours to-day. The In- 
dians make slow progress in traveling with their village ; 
for it takes them a long time to pack and unpack, to set up 
and take down their lodges. This is, however, of little 
consequence to them ; for wherever they are, that place is 
their home. 

They are very kind, and manifest their kindness in anti- 
cipating all, and more than all my wants, which they have 
the power to supply. They consult me upon all their im- 
portant business, and are ready to follow my counsels. 
They are attentive to furnish little comforts. If the sun 
shines with much warmth into my tent, they will cut green 
bushes and set them up for shade. A few days since, 
we encamped where there were some fragrant plants of a 
species of mint, and the wife of Tai-quin-su-wa-tish, with a 
few other women, collected a quantity, and strewed them 
in my tent. 

We passed to-day mountains of volcanic rocks, and over 
a more rich, black soil, where we found a good supply of 
grass for our horses at night. 

Our route, on the 8th, was continued as usual. My health 
hitherto, since I commenced my journey, has been uninter- 
ruptedly good until to-day, when I suffered a slight attack 
of inflammation of the lungs, in consequence of a cold. 

The Indian mode of living is very precarious, and yet 
they are seldom anxious about the future. When they have 
a plenty, they are not sparing ; and when they are in want, 
they do not complain. The Indians at this time were al- 
most destitute of provisions, and we were approaching the 
Salmon river mountains, to pass over which occupies be- 
tween twelve and fifteen days, and where there are no buf- 
falo and scarcely any other game. I felt a prayerful con- 



SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS TIMELY SUPPLY. 107 

cern for them, that God would send a supply before we 
should get beyond the range of buffalo, and was confident 
that we should experience the truth of His word, that he 
provides for all their meat in due season ; and as the cattle 
upon the thousand hills are his, he would not withhold his 
providential care from us. 

We continued to pass basaltic mountains; and also 
passed some very white marl clay, which the Indians use 
for cleansing their robes and other garments made of dress- 
ed skins. 

Their mode of doing this is to make the clay into a paste, 
and rub it upon the garments, and when it becomes dry 
they rub it off, which process leaves the garment soft, clean, 
and white. We encamped to-day where the Indians had 
before made an encampment, a little below a steep bank. 
Near night I was alarmed by shouts of Indians and a gen- 
eral rush up the bank. I hastened up and saw great num- 
bers running towards our camp. It proved to be a foot 
race, such as they frequently exercise themselves in, for 
the purpose of improving their agility. 

September 9th, I was more unwell. To-day we unex- 
pectedly saw before us a large band of buffalo, and halted 
to make preparation for the chase. The young men and 
all the good hunters prepared themselves, selected the 
swiftest horses, examined the few guns they had, and took 
a supply of arrows with their bows. Our condition was 
such, that it seemed that our lives almost depended upon 
their success. And while they were preparing, I could not 
but offer prayer to God, that he would in mercy give them 
judgment, skill, and success. They advanced towards the 
herd of buffalo with great caution, lest they should frighten 
them before they could make a near approach ; and also to 



108 THE CHAS£. 

reserve the power of their horses for the chase, when it should 
be necessary to bring it into full requisition. When the 
buffalo took the alarm and fled, the rush was made, each 
Indian selecting for himself a cow with which he happened 
to come into the nearest contact. All were in swift motion, 
scouring the valley — a cloud of dust began to arise — the 
firing of guns and the shooting of arrows followed in close 
succession — soon here and there buffalo was seen pros- 
trated ; and the women, who followed close in the rear, 
began the work of securing the valuable acquisition ; and 
the men were away again in pursuit of the fleeing herd. 
Those in the chase, when they come abreast of the buffalo 
and at the distance of two rods, shoot and wheel, expecting 
the wounded animal to turn upon them. The horses ap- 
peared to understand the way to avoid danger. As soon as 
the wounded buffalo flies again, the chase is renewed, and 
such is the alternate wheeling and chasing until the buffalo 
sinks beneath its wounds. They obtained between fifty 
and sixty. 

I was interested to see how expertly the Indians used the 
bow and arrow, and how well the women followed up the 
chase, and performed their part in dressing the buffalo which 
were slain. After traveling six hours to-day, we encamped 
on the eastern branch of Salmon river, where it is of con- 
siderable magnitude. The pain in my breast changed and 
seated in my head, on the right side. 

On the 10th, my health was no better, and I was obliged 
to bleed myself and resort to medicine. I could say with 
the Psalmist, " I laid me down and slept; for thou art with 
me." We did not remove to-day, for it was necessary for 
the Indians to dry their meat by a process which is called 
"jerking." The meat is cut into pieces, an inch thick, and 



SALMON RIVER. 100 

spread out on a fixture made with stakes, upon which are 
laid poles, and upon these cross sticks ; and then a moder- 
ate fire is placed beneath, which partly smokes, cooks, and 
dries it, until it is so well freed from moisture, that it can 
be packed, and then it will keep without injury almost any 
length of time. Here we made preparation for the remain- 
der of my journey to Walla Walla, which will probably 
occupy about twenty days. 

September 11th. To-day most of the Nez Perces and 
Flatheads left us to continue within the range of buffalo, 
that they might secure a larger store of provisions before 
winter, leaving, however, about one hundred and fifty to go 
with me towards Walla Walla. Before they left us, I ex- 
perienced another token of their regard in a very valuable 
present of twenty fine buffalo tongues, which are a great 
delicacy, together with a large quantity of dried meat. I 
reciprocated their kindness by making such presents as were 
in my power to bestow — among which was a britania cup, 
to the first chief, which he highly valued. And I gave him 
some writing paper, requesting him to present it to the mis- 
sionaries whom I had encouraged him to expect next year. 

After traveling three hours, we encamped upon the same 
branch of the Salmon river, to give the Indians an oppor- 
tunity to dry their meat more thoroughly. 

We continued our journey, on the 12th, down the eastern 
branch of Salmon river. The valley through which this 
river runs is generally fertile, and varies from one to three 
or four miles in width, but as we advanced toward the Sal- 
mon river mountains, the mountains upon each side in- 
creased in height and converged towards each other. They 
presented some noble prospects. It is a custom with Indians 
to send out numbers of their best hunters and warriors, in 



110 DANGER APPREHENDED. 

different directions, to reconnoiter, and especially when they 
are apprehensive that enemies may be near. We had evi- 
dence, from tracks recently made, that Indians of some other 
nation, or tribe, were about us ; and therefore more than 
usual numbers of our men were flanking and ahead. On 
the banks of the river down which we were traveling, there 
was a dense growth of willows extending, however, only a 
few rods into the bottom-lands. About two in the afternoon, 
we were all very much alarmed to see our men, who were 
Out as hunters and guards upon the hills, running their horses 
at full speed, in an oblique direction towards us. Two of 
them were "our principal chiefs. We knew that they had 
discovered something more than ordinary, but what we 
could not conjecture. Being in a country where war par- 
ties of Blackfeet Indians often range, our thoughts were 
turned upon danger ; and soon our fears were increased by 
seeing clouds of dust arise on the sides of the mountains at 
our left, and in the obscure distance, men descending as 
swiftly as their horses could run. They were so far off 
that we could not determine who they were. At the same 
time our two chiefs on the hills halted and made signals 
which we did not understand. In addition to this, some of 
the Indians said they saw Blackfeet Indians in the willows, 
not far off, between us and the chiefs ; and our belief that 
it was so, was confirmed, when two deer rushed from the 
willows towards us, and when they saw us, instead of return- 
ing, only declined a little to the left, and passed before us. 
These enquiries arose in my mind — Why have the chiefs 
halted 1 Do they see enemies between us and themselves ? 
Are their signals to give us warning of danger ? What so 
frightened the deer that they rushed out towards us ? We 
had all halted, and made what preparation we could for bat- 



BUFFALO. Ill 

tie. As we did not know in what part of the willows to 
make the attack, we were waiting for our enemies to com- 
mence the fire, and were expecting every instant to have 
their balls poured in upon us. It was a moment of awful 
suspense. We sent out a few men, on an eminence to our 
right, to see what they could discover, and they soon return- 
ed without having seen any enemies. The two chiefs upon 
the hills, who were now joined by those who rushed down 
the mountains, and who proved to be some of our own men, 
applied their whips to their horses, and in full speed came 
to us ; and Charlie, the first chief, rode up to me, and smil- 
ing reached out his hand and said, " cocoil, cocoil" (buffalo, 
buffalo.) Thus ended the battle ; and the remainder of the 
day was spent in killing and dressing buffalo, which was 
far more pleasant than fighting Blackfeet Indians. This 
made a desirable addition to their stock of provisions We 
encamped in this place, which supplied a plenty of good 
grass for our horses, and where there was no want of fuel. 

The inflammation in my head still continued with throb- 
bing, pain, and fever — my pulse one hundred a minute. 
Bled myself again and took medicine. Thermometer, at 
noon, 73°. 

Sabbath, 13th. My health was no better, and my strength 
was failing. I felt that all was right, and that I needed this 
trial to lead me to an examination of my spiritual condition, 
my motives in engaging in this mission, and whether I could 
give up all for Christ to promote his kingdom in the world. 
I thought I could surrender all into the hands of God, my 
soul to my Redeemer, and my body to be buried by these 
Indians in this desert land. I felt as though it was desira- 
ble to finish my tour, and return and make my report, and 
urge the sending of missionaries into this field, which is 



** 



112 GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 

white for the harvest ; and again to meet my family and 
friends; but still I wished not to have any will of my own, 
but say, the will of the Lord be done. These Indians per- 
severe in their kindness, and are very respectful, and ready 
to obey as fast as I can impart instruction ; and they say 
that what I tell them is different from any thing they have 
ever heard, being spiritual, and that they wish to have 
Sueapo (American) teachers. If the American churches 
will not send them teachers, criminality must rest upon 
them for disobedience to Christ's authority. Are there any 
heathen more anxious than these to be taught the way of 
salvation, where there are so few obstacles to the introduc- 
tion of the gospel ? Here are no idols, no sacrifices, no 
power of caste to combat ; nor, as yet, the destructive influ- 
ence which exists upon the frontiers. 

September 14th. Re-commenced our journey, and pro- 
ceeded five hours down the river, and stopped a few miles 
above the main branch of Salmon river, which comes from 
the south, and has its source in two small lakes, in the 
mountains north of Henry's fork. 

For some distance on our way, on the 15th, the moun- 
tains come down near the river, rendering the valley through 
which it runs, narrow. Some of these mountains terminate 
in high bluffs, which in many places present uncommonly 
interesting strata. The lowest stratum was white marly 
earth, about twenty feet in depth, nearly horizontal, and 
somewhat indurated ; upon this a green stratum of about 
four feet in thickness ; next a stratum of brown of about 
ten feet ; upon this a stratum of red of about the same depth 
of the green ; over this a mould of decomposed lava. This 
marly earth slightly effervesces with acid. The rocks in 
most places are basalt — in some places very fine granular 



•% 



PETRIFIED STUMP. 113 

quartz. Noticing some unusual appearances near the foot 
of the mountains, on the left, I rode to the place, and found 
a cluster of volcanic eruptions, which, though ancient, ap- 
peared more recent than any I had previously seen. A little 
way down the descent into one of.the craters, I found a pet- 
rified stump, standing in its natural position ; its roots and 
the grain of the wood entire. I think it was cedar, and 
about eighteen inches in diameter. This stood undoubtedly, 
upon what was the nalural surface of the earth, and the 
mound above and around was thrown up by volcanic fires. 
While time is mouldering the lava into dust, the wind is 
scattering it over the country around, to renew the soil 
which was destroyed by the great conflagration, which once 
fused this whole region of the setting sun. This petrified 
stump, found in this position, proves that this country, which 
is now so destitute of wood, was once supplied if not covered 
with forests. From various sources of evidence, it is plain 
that these prairie regions were formerly better supplied with 
wood than at present, and also that the present supply is 
constantly diminishing. 

We passed, to-day, a place where two years ago thirty 
Nez Perce" young men were buried, who were killed by 
the Blackfeet. They were all active young men, going out 
upon some expedition, the nature of which I could not learn. 
They had gone but a little distance from the village, which 
encamped here, when passing through a very narrow defile 
on a small stream of water, walled up on both sides with 
perpendicular rocks, the Blackfeet Indians, who had way- 
laid them, attacked them from before and behind, and killed 
all but one, who mounted a horse belonging to the Black 
feet, and rushed through the opposing enemy. After the 

Blackfeet Indians had retired from the place of slaughter, 

11 



114 SCENE OF MOURNING. 

the Nez Percys brought away the dead bodies and buried 
them in this place. According to their mode, they buried 
with them their clothes, blankets, and buffalo robes, in graves 
about three feet deep, putting five or six bodies into a grave. 
Some time after this, the Blackfeet Indians came and dug 
them up, and made plunder of their blankets and whatever 
they thought worth taking. The Nez Perces afterward 
came this way and collected their bones and buried them 
again. The graves in which they were first buried were 
open when we passed, and fragments of garments were lying 
about. Here my Indians halted, and mourned in silence 
over their murdered sons and brothers. The whole scene 
was affecting, and I could not but long for the time to come 
when they shall settle down in a Christian community, and 
cease from their dangerous wanderings ; and when the gos- 
pel shall be sent to the Blackfeet Indians, that they may 
imbibe its spirit of peace on earth and good will toward men. 
After some time spent in reflections and solemn mourning, 
we left the place and proceeded down the river, and en. 
camped near Bonneville's Fort, which he has abandoned, 
and which is situated in a small pleasant valley. This 
place would be favorable for fur business, was it not on the 
ground where conflicting tribes often meet. 



SALMON RIVER. 115 



CHAPTER VII. 

Salmon river — mineral salt — -chimneys— forest trees, new species of 
pine — geology— sulphur lake — -a rare animal — new species of squir- 
rels and pheasants— came to the Lewis branch of the Columbia — fer- 
ryman — Basaltic formation— fine-climate- — arrive at Walla Walla. 

Salmon river is a beautiful transparent stream, and takes 
its name from the immense number of salmon found in its 
waters. The shores are covered with pebbles of primitive 
formation. 

I took an observation of latitude, and found it 44° 41'. 

September 16th. Passing a mile down the river, we 
came to a location of mineral salt. It crops out of the 
mountain near its base, on the south side of the river. On 
account of the impaired state of my health, and having no 
facilities for exploring the mine, I was under the necessity 
of passing it with an examination of such specimens only as 
the Indians procured. The salt is pure and white, contain- 
ing less of the water of crystalization than our common 
salt. I took a quantity to replenish my nearly exhausted 
store. That the mine may be extensive is probable from 
the circumstance, that the geological formations around are 
like those about the mines in Poland, and besides it is in the 
vicinity of the great Salt Lake, whose waters are so strongly 
saturated, that crystals form upon the shores. 

After passing down the river two hours in a north-west 
direction, we entered into the mountains, leaving Salmon 
river. The river literally passed into the mountains ; for 



116 THE CHIMNEYS. 

the opening in the perpendicular rocks, two or three hun- 
dred feet high, and through these mountains several thou- 
sand feet high, was wide enough only for the river to find a 
passage. It flowed into the dark chasm, and we saw it no 
more. During the two hours' ride, before we entered the 
mountains, the scenery was grand. While there was some 
level bottom-land along the river, in every direction moun- 
tains were rising above mountains, and peaks above peaks, 
up to the regions of perpetual snow. These mountains are 
not so much in chains, as of conical forms, with bases in 
most instances small in proportion to their height. So 
much sublimity and grandeur, combined with so much va- 
riety, is rarely presented to view. Horizontal strata, with 
interchanges of white, green, red, and brown, were similar 
to those seen yesterday ; and in one place, for more than a 
mile, a vertical front was presented, facing the south-west, of 
one hundred and fifty, and two hundred feet high, resting 
upon a base of conglomerated rock, composed of round 
stones of primitive origin, cemented with marly clay of tha 
various colors already mentioned. The opposite side of th§ 
river is studded with dark basalt. 

After leaving Salmon river we traversed a dreary, nar- 
row, and winding course for several hours, until an open 
space spread out before us. Here I beheld what appeared 
at a distance like a village of thirty or forty houses which 
the fire had desolated, leaving the decayed, broken, and 
tottering chimneys yet standing. On a nearer approach 
they proved to be masses of slaty rock, ten, twenty, and 
even forty feet in height. The firm and durable texture of 
their material preserves them from being crumbled to a 
level with the earth around them. 

From this place we turned more westerly, and passed a 



THE ELASTIC PINE. 11 7 

high, mountain, parts of which are very steep, and encamped 
in a valley by a stream of crystal water. 

On the 17th, we pursued our journey over high moun- 
tains, which, in some places were intersected by deep ra- 
vines, very difficult to be passed. Encamped on a small 
plain in a grove of large Norway pines. 

September 18th. The villages of Indians make slow pro- 
gress in traveling, and being desirous to expedite my jour- 
ney to some of the posts of the Hudson Bay Company, I 
took ten Indians and went forward, leaving the remainder 
to follow at their leisure. We passed over a mountain six 
thousand feet high, occupying more than half a day to 
arrive at the summit. These mountains are covered with 
woods, excepting small portions, which are open and furnish 
grass for our horses. The woods are composed mainly of 
fir, spruce, Norway pine, and a new species of pine. The 
leaves of this new species resemble those of pitch pine, 
growing in bunches at the ends of the limbs, but are shorter 
and smaller ; the bark and the body of the tree resemble 
the larch ; the wood is firm and very elastic. "On experi- 
ments which I made, I found it difficult to break sticks an 
inch in diameter. On account of this last and peculiar 
property, I have called it the elastic pine. It grows very 
tall and straight, and without branches except near the top.. 
These pines would undoubtedly make excellent masts and! 
spars for shipping. After passing part of the way down this 
mountain, we stopped for the night. 

We arose early on the 19th, and commenced our day's 
labor, and by diligence went more than twice the distance' 
than when we were with the village. We were much an- 
noyed by trees that had fallen across the trail. Encamped 

upon the south-east side of a high mountain, where there 

11* 



118 REFLFXTIONS. 

was a large opening, a spring of water, and a good supply 
of grass for our horses. 

Sabbath, 20th. We continued in the same encampment. 
I expressed my wish to the chief, that the da"y should be 
spent religiously, and that he should communicate to his 
men, as well as he was able, the scripture truths he had 
learned. This was faithfully done on his part, and he 
prayed with them with much apparent devotion. I was 
interested to see how readily they were disposed to obey' to 
the extent of their knowledge, and I was affected with the 
thought that so few were Milling to come and teach these 
benighted minds. After they had closed their worship, I 
sang a hymn and prayed, and conversed with them. 

The inflammation in my head continuing, I bled myself 
copiously, which reduced my pulse for awhile, but increased 
my weakness, so that I could walk only a few rods without 
much fatigue. 

Sometimes, amidst all the evidences of God's mercy to 
me, I found my heart sinking in despondency, and was 
ready to say, I shall perish in these wild, cold mountains. 
It seemed, that such was my loss of strength, and I was be- 
coming so emaciated, that I could not endure the fatigue of 
traveling eight days longer over these mountains, which 
are on an average about six thousand feet high ; and as 
they range north and south, with only very narrow valleys 
between, and as our course was only a little north of west, 
we were constantly ascending and descending ; and we could 
not discontinue our journey for the want of provisions. 
The thought that I must fail of accomplishing the object of 
rny mission, and close my life without a sympathising friend 
with whom I could converse and pray ; and be buried in 
these solitary mountains, filled me with a gloom which I 



A CURIOSITY. 119 

knew was wrong. My judgment was clear, but I could 
not make it influence the feelings of my heart. At night I 
sometimes thought a pillow desirable, upon which to lay my 
aching, throbbing head, but my portmanteau was my only 
substitute, and I rested quietly upon the ground, and every 
morning arose refreshed by sleep. 

Monday, 21st. At an early hour we resumed our jour- 
ney, and our horses being recruited with the rest and good 
fare they had yesterday, made a long day's journey. I 
had noticed the mountain over which we passed to-day, 
which is about seven thousand feet high, two days before 
we arrived at the top ; and queried in my mind whether* 
Charlie, my guide, would not depart in this instance from 
the common custom of the Indians, which is to pass over 
the highest parts of mountains, and to descend into the low- 
est valleys. But we passed the highest point, excepting 
one peak, which is nearly perpendicular, and rises like 
an immense castle or pyramid. It is composed of basalt; 
and around it volcanic rocks lie scattered in great profu- 
sion. At the base there are also excavations, around and 
below which there is a large quantity of lava. There is a 
granite mountain, most of which is in its natural state. 
The way by which I calculated the height of these moun- 
tains is, that some of them are tipped with perpetual snow : 
and as eight thousand feet, in latitude 42°, is the region of 
perpetual snow, there can be no doubt, as these do not 
vary greatly from each other, that they average six thous- 
and feet. 

I was much interested with a curiosity upon this moun- 
tain, which was two granite rocks, each weighing many 
tons, placed one upon the other, like the parts of an hour 
glass. It was wonderful, how nicely the uppermost one 



1*20 INDIAN SIMPLICITY. 

was balanced upon the other. It would seem that a puff 
of wind would blow it off its centre. Charlie, the chief, 
seeing me one day examining minerals, with a magnifying 
glass, said, " these white men know every thing. They 
know what rocks are made of, they know how to make iron, 
and how to make watches, and how to make the needle al- 
ways point to the north." They had seen a compass be- 
fore, and when I showed them mine, they said, " that would 
keep me from getting lost." A waterfall was seen de- 
scending down a high point of this mountain, which, by its 
continual foaming, looked like a white belt girding its side. 
We left our encampment, on the 22d, at an early hour 
and continued our mountainous journey. Parts of the way 
the ascent and descent was at an angle of 45°, and in 
some places even more steep ; sometimes on the verge of 
dizzy precipices ; sometimes down shelves of rocks where 
my Indian horse would jump from one to another, and in 
other places would brace himself upon all fours and slide 
down. I had become so weak that I could not walk on 
foot, but was obliged to keep upon his back. Frequently 
between the mountains there would be only space enough 
for a rushing stream of the purest water to find its way ; 
the bank on one side of which would terminate the descent 
of one mountain ; and the other bank commence the ascent 
of another. The question often aiose in my mind, can this 
section of country ever be inhabited, unless these mountains 
shall be brought low, and these valleys shall be exalted ? 
But they may be designed to perpetuate a supply of wood 
for the wide-spread prairies ; and they may contain mines 
of treasures, which, when wrought, will need these forests 
for fuel, and these rushing streams for water power. Roads 
may be constructed running north and south, so that trans- 



MOUNTAIN LAKES. 121 

portations may be made south to the Salmon river, and north 
to the Coos-coots-ke.* 

After a fatiguing day's march, we encamped in a low 
stony place where there was but little grass, for the want of 
which some of our horses strayed away. Our men killed a 
deer, which was a very agreeable exchange for dried buffalo. 

The mountains, over which we made our way on the 23d, 
were of primitive formation, with the exception of some parts 
which were volcanic. Granite and mica slate predomina- 
ted. In one place there were immense quantities of granite, 
covering more than a hundred acres, in a broken state, as 
though prepared for making walls, mostly in cubic forms. 
In some places, the change from granite, in its natural state, 
to amygdaloid, was so gradual, that it would be difficult to 
say where the one ended and the other began ; like the 
change from day to night. While riding along upon a nar- 
row ridge of this mountain, I saw two small lakes a little 
down the sides ; one on the right hand, which appeared to 
be very black, and the other upon the left was very yellow 
with sulphur, issuing from a spring in the mountain side. 
These two lakes were directly opposite each other, and not 
far distant. I should have examined them more minutely, 
had my strength permitted me to go down to them, and again 
ascend to where I must have left my horse. There was 
also much in the scenery around to admire ; mountain rising 
above mountain, and precipice above precipice. 

We spent the night in a valley, where there was a small 
meadow, well supplied with grass. The woods around 



* The name of this river in the journal of Clark and Lewis, and in 
all other writings I have seen, is written Coos-coos-kee. This signi- 
fies the water water. But Coos-coots-ke signifies the little water. 
Coos, water ; coots, little ; ke, the. The little river. 



VJ'2 new species of trees. 

were very dense, composed mostly of the new species of pine, 
which here were very tall and straight, not however very 
lar^e in diameter. The neighborhood of beaver was indi- 
cated by the mud dam, and by the barked willows on the 
stream. The Indians brought in a wolverine which they 
killed. 

Took an early departure, on the 24th, from our encamp- 
ment, and made good progress through the day. About the 
middle of the day, we came where we could look forward 
without having the sight obstructed by mountains, and it 
was pleasant to have a prospect opening into the wide world. 
We continued to descend, until we came into a valley of 
considersble extent, through which flows a laro;e branch of 
the Coos-coots-ke. Found to-day a new r species of elde^ 
which grows five or six inches in diameter, and from ten to 
twenty feet high, bearing berries which are blue and pleas- 
ant to the taste. Kentuc caught some fine trout. 

Here was a band of horses, belonging to the Nez Perces, 
which they left last spring. They were in fine order. It 
is remarkable that their horses do not wander far from 
where they are left, although there are no fences to inclose 
them. Here some of the Indians changed their horses and 
took fresh on<?s, relieving those which were worn down with 
journeying. 

On the 25th, we pursued our course down .this fertile val- 
ley, until one in the afternoon, when, contrary to my ex- 
pectations, we left this branch of the Coos-coots-ke, which 
was too much of a northerly direction, and ascended another 
high mountain, densely covered with woods. Among the 
largest trees is a new species of fir, single leafed, the bark 
thick and rough like the bark of hemloc, but the balsam is 
the same as the common fir. I saw more birds in this val- 



A RARE ANIMAL. 123 

ley, than in all the country through which I had passed 
west of the Rocky Mountains ; robins in great numbers, 
the magpie, and with them a new species of bird about as 
large as the magpie, its color uniformly a dull red, some- 
what resembling chocolate. Thermometer stood at 54°. 

On the 26th, we proceeded but about four hours on our 
way, and encamped on the side of a mountain near its sum- 
mit ; the distance to another suitable place for our horses 
over Sabbath, being too great. Saw to-day a new species 
of animal, such as I never saw before. It was about as 
large as a martin, and probably of that genus. Its color 
was a bright orange red, resembling a live coal of fire ; its 
fur appeared to be fine ; its head was round and large ; its 
eyes black, prominent, and very piercing. I was forward 
of my Indians, and when it saw me, it sprang about eight 
feet Up a tree, ran part of the way up, but appeared afraid 
to ascend higher. Attempts were made to obtain it, but 
without success. An Indian hit it with an arrow, but did 
not kill it, and it came down and escaped. I saw in these 
mountains, a new variety of striped squirrel, only about half 
as large as those found in the United States ; and another 
kind, in every respect resembling the red squirrel, but in 
color. It is nearly black, excepting its under parts, which 
are rufous, or reddish yellow. Also a new species of pheas- 
ant, if it may be called a pheasant. It is much smaller 
than the common species ; somewhat lighter colored and 
more spotted; it is gregarious like the common quail. It 
was remarkably tame, as if unacquainted with enemies ; 
and when assailed with stones by the Indians, appeared to 
be amazed, and made scarcely any effort to escape. Its 
flesh was very good, and furnished an additional supply to 
our waning stock of provisions. 



124 a chief's anxiety. 

Sabbath, 27th. We continued in our encampment. My 
health was no better — sweat profusely last night, and yet 
the inflammation was increasing — took from my arm a pint 
of blood, which, while it weakened, gave me relief. 

We had religious services both in the morning and after- 
noon of this day, as last Sabbath. Charlie prays every 
morning and evening with his men, and asks a blessing 
when they eat. In the afternoon, he, with Compo, my in- 
terpreter, came and sat by me, and said, " we are now near 
our country, and when we come into it, I wish you to look 
over it and jsee if it is good for missionaries to live in. I 
know but little about God — my people know but little — I 
wish my people to know more about God." He said he 
wished to talk with me much more, and was sorry I had 
not a better qualified interpreter. 

Monday, 28th, my health was improved, and we made a 
long day's march and emerged from the mountains about 
two o'clock in the afternoon. Not finding water as we ex- 
pected, we were obliged to travel on until near night, when 
we came to another branch of the Coos-coots-ke, at which we 
found several lodges of Nez Perce Indians. A salute was 
fired, and then we were welcomed with a ceremonious, but 
hearty shaking of hands. They feasted us with excellent 
dried salmon, for which I made them some small presents. 
I was rejoiced to find myself safely through the Salmon 
river mountains, and convalescent. These mountains were 
far more difficult to pass than the Rocky Mountains, as we 
could not take advantage of any valley, but one in which 
we journeyed only two-thirds of a day. Excepting in the 
middle of the days, the atmosphere was cold, and frequently 
ice was formed during the night. It was a favor that we 
had no snow, which often falls upon the tops of these moun- 



MEETING WITH INDIANS. 125 

tains very early in the autumn ; nor had we any storms, or 
unpleasant weather in our passage. Frequently heavy 
gales of winds sweep through these mountains, and pros- 
trate parts of the forest ; but we had none to endanger us. 

On the 29th, we proceeded down this branch more than 
half the day, and found the soil black and good, well cov- 
ered with grass, but dried into hay by the summer drouth. 
Here, as on most prairies, there is much want of wood, 
there being but little besides what is found along the streams 
of water. This country continues to be volcanic, as is 
evinced by the abundance of lava and basalt. Came at 
noon to six lodges of Indians, who welcomed us with the 
same friendly expressions, as those did where we encamped 
last night. We left the branch of the Coos-coots-ke and 
ascended westerly to the upper prairies, which are as fertile 
as the lower, and do not suffer more with the drouth. After 
a long and fatiguing ride over these prairies, we descended 
into a deep gulf, almost enclosed with perpendicular walls 
of basalt ; in the bottom of which, we found a large spring 
of water, where we encamped. 

Arose very early on the 30th, set forward, and made good 
progress, considering the exhausted state of our horses. 
Most of the streams were dried up, and one, which is gen- 
erally large, and where we intended to have arrived last 
night, was wholly destitute of water and grass. Ascend- 
ing out of this gulf, we found toward the summit of the 
high prairie, a good spring of water, with sufficiency of 
grass, where we refreshed ourselves at noon. The horses, 
contrary to my expectations, preferred the dried grass to 
the green. In the afternoon, we went through a section of 
country well supplied with woods, chiefly made up of yellow 

pine and white oak ; where much of the soil appeared to 

12 



126 LEWIS RIVER. 

be very good. Towards night we came to a stream of 
water running west where we encamped. Thermometer 
82° at noon. 

Thursday, October 1st. Arose early with substantially 
better health, for which I cannot be too thankful. After 
traveling a few miles, we came to several lodges of Nez 
Perces, who gave us their kind welcome, and seemed, as 
at the other lodges, much pleased to see their first chief. 
They manifested the same feelings on learning who I was, 
and the object of my coming into their country, as their 
countrymen did whom we met at the rendezvous. With 
these Indians, I left two of my horses, which were too much 
exhausted with the fatigues of our long journey to proceed 
any farther. I had fears that they would not endure the 
deprivations of the coming winter, without any shelter from 
the cold and storms, and with nothing to eat except what 
they could find upon the prairies. 

We arrived, two o'clock in the afternoon, at the Lewis 
branch of the Columbia river, near the confluence of the 
Coos-coots-ke. Though this is a large river, yet on account 
of the summer's drouth there is less water flowing down 
its channel than I anticipated. 

A squalid looking Indian took us over the ferry in a ca- 
noe, which appeared as weather-beaten as himself, and re- 
minded me of fabled Charon and his cerulean boat. 

The country differs much from what I had expected ; 
for while the soil is generally good, and furnishes a supply 
for grazing, yet so great is the destitution of summer rains, 
that some kinds of grain cannot flourish, especially Indian 
corn. The crops sown in the fall of the year, or very early 
in the spring, would probably be so far advanced before the 
severity of the drouth, that they would do well. In general 



GEOLOGY. 127 

there is a great want of wood for building, fencing and 
fuel ; but at the confluence of these rivers a supply may 
be brought down the Coos-coots-ke. This place combines 
many advantages for a missionary station. 

I began to doubt the correctness of the statements of some 
travelers, in regard to the great numbers of wild horses, and 
the immense multitudes of wolves, which they say they saw 
this side the Rocky Mountains ; for as yet I had seen no 
wild horses, and only a very few wolves. We passed the 
night upon the west bank of Lewis river, or as it is more 
commonly called, the Snake river. 

On the 2d, we arose early, but were detained some time, 
before all our horses could be found. We started about 
eight, and proceeded three hours down the river to a place 
where it takes a northerly bend, through a section of moun- 
tains which are difficult to be passed. Our direct course to 
Walla Walla being west north-west, we here left the river 
and followed a small stream up a valley nearly to its source. 
The section of country through which we journeyed to-day 
was mountainous. One part of the river along which we 
traveled was walled up with volcanic rocks. The lowest 
part was amygdaloid, about thirty feet high and very cellu- 
lar, terminating in a narrow horizontal plain. Above this 
is superimposed columnar basalt ; the columns of which 
are regular pentagons, varying from two to four feet in di- 
ameter, rising forty feet high, perpendicular excepting in 
one place, where they were a little inclined. Above this 
formation of columns there was a stratum of volcanic stones 
and disintegrated basalt, of some six or eight feet thickness, 
lying in a confused state. Then upon this another section 
of basalt and amygdaloid of fifty feet depth, and so on to 
the height of three hundred feet, nearly perpendicular. 



128 CAMMAS ROOT. 

The pentagons are as regularly formed, and have much 
the same appearance, as those composing the Giant's cause- 
way in Ireland. From the best observations I could make, 
I was led to conclude that the different sections were raised, 
at different periods of time, by widely extended subterranean 
fires. The basalt in this place, and also in almost all other 
places, which I have yet seen, is of very dark color, contain- 
ing augite, or black oxyd of iron ; and is what Clarke and 
Lewis, and those who have copied from -them, have called 
black rocks. 

Saturday, 3d. We took an early departure from our en- 
campment, and had through the day, an uncommonly high 
wind from the west, but a pleasant sun and serene atmos- 
phere. We have had no rain since the 12th of July, while 
on the east side of the mountains, and not more than five 
cloudy days. The water this side the Rocky Mountains 
is excellent, and no country can possess a climate more 
conducive to health. After passing over a somewhat hilly 
country well covered with grass, we encamped for the 
night, and for the Sabbath, in a fertile vale upon an upper 
branch of the Walla Walla river. Here we found three 
lodges of Nez Perces who were out on a hunt for deer, and 
the women were gathering cammas roots. This root in 
some degree resembles in taste and nutritive properties the 
sweet potato, and constitutes a large item of food for the In- 
dians throughout a considerable section of country, on this 
side of Salmon river and the Salmon river mountains. The 
common tokens of friendship were interchanged, and they 
presented us a share of such food as they themselves had. 

Sabbath, Oct. 4th. We had public worship, at which all 
the men, women and children of three lodges attended. 
What there was of a truly spiritual nature in our worship, 



VALLEY OF THE WALLA WALLA. 129 

was known to the Searcher of hearts, but there was the ap- 
pearance of devotion, and good attention was paid to what 
was said. It is affecting to see the anxiety these Indians 
manifest to know what they must do to please God, and to 
obtain salvation. 

I employed part of the day in reading Vincent's Expla- 
nation of the catechism. This is an excellent compendium 
of divinity, and is too much neglected in families and Sab- 
bath Schools. 

Early, on the 5th, we pursued our journey down the 
Walla Walla river, through a beautiful valley of thirty 
miles in extent, parts of which are overgrown with the com- 
mon trees and shrubs of such locations, interspersed with 
wild roses. The prairie hen, the avoset, the robin, and va- 
rieties of smaller birds, seem to have selected this as a fa= 
vorite retreat ; while the animals, which we have been seek- 
ing for game, desert this delightful place and find their 
dwellings on more rugged tracts. This spot impressed' me 
favorably as the situation for the missionaries who should' 
succeed me, and in every thing but its populousness would- 
furnish advantages beyond any I have as yet seen. Indi- 
ans of different tribes border on, and around, this valley, 
and the location is therefore less central for any one of 
them. They might, however, be brought by degrees to 
collect and settle down around a mission station, when once 
it should be established. 

October 6th. We arose early and commenced our jour- 
ney with the animating hope of reaching Walla Walla, and; 
of seeing civilized people before noon. Ascended the bluffs 
and passed over an undulating prairie of good soil, leaving 
the Walla Walla river to our left. As we drew near the 

Columbia river the soil became more and more sandy. 

12* 



130 FRIENDLY RECEPTION. 

Before we arrived at the fort, my attention was arrested by 
seeing cows and other cattle, in fine order, feeding upon the 
bottom land ; and the sight was not only novel, after having 
been so long absent from civilized life, but was the more in- 
teresting because unexpected. As we came near the fort, the 
Indians fired their customary salute, and then rushed for- 
ward to the gate. Mr. P. C. Pambrun, the superintendent, 
met us, and gave me a kind welcome. I never felt more 
joy in entering a habitation of civilized men, whose lan- 
guage was not strange. I felt that I had cause of thank- 
fulness, that God, in his great mercy, and by his watchful 
providence, had brought me in safety and with restored 
health to this place. Soon I was invited into another apart- 
ment to breakfast; and it was truly pleasant again to sit in 
a chair, at a table spread with furniture, and such luxuries 
as bread and butter, sugar and milk, of which I had been 
deprived for about three months. 

I arrived here in six months and twenty-three days after 
leaving home — forty-five days from Rendezvous — and twen- 
ty from entering the Salmon river mountains. 



FORT WALLA WALLA, 131 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Description of Walla Walla — the kind treatment of the Indians by the 
Hudson Bay company — -leave Walla Walla for fort Vancouver — lo- 
quacious orator — rapids— introduction to the Cayuse Indians — morn- 
ing prospects— long rapids — Volcanic mountains— trial of Indian 
generosity — arrival at the falls of the Columbia river — rousing ef- 
fects of oratory — La Dalles — Boston trading company — remarkable 
subsidence-- Cascades — Chenooks are the Flatheads and Nez Percys 
— dangerous rapids — Indian burying places — Pillar rock—interest. 
ing waterfall — sea fowl — arrive at Fort Vancouver. 

Fort Walla Walla is situated on the south side of the 
Columbia river, ten miles below the confluence of the Co- 
lumbia and Lewis' river, which last is commonly called, 
by the people belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, Nez 
Perce river ; and one mile above the Walla Walla river, 
in latitude 46° 2', longitude 119° 30'. The fort is built of 
logs, and is internally arranged to answer the purposes of 
trade and domestic comfort, and externally for defense, hav- 
ing two bastions, and is surrounded by a stoccade. Two 
miles below the fort there is a range of mountains running 
north and south, which, though not high, are yet of consid- 
erable magnitude ; and where the Columbia passes through, 
it is walled up on both sides with basalt, in many places 
three hundred feet perpendicular height. The soil, for con- 
siderable distance around, with the exception of some strips 
of bottom-land, is sandy, and for the want of summer rains 
is not productive. This establishment is not only supplied 
with the necessaries of life, but also with many of its con- 



132 HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 

veniences. They have cows, horses, hogs, fowls, dec. and 
cultivate corn, potatoes, and a variety of garden vegetables ; 
and might enlarge these and other productions to a great 
extent. They also keep on hand dry goods and hardware, 
not only for their own convenience, but also for Indian 
trade. During most of the year they have a good supply 
offish, and an abundance of salmon of the first quality. 

Wednesday, 7th. Continued in this place. Settled with 
my interpreter, gave presents to my Indians, and made ar- 
rangements for leaving to-morrow, in a canoe propelled by 
Indians belonging to the Walla Walla tribe, for Fort Van- 
couver, which is two hundred miles down the Columbia. 

Thus I am putting myself, without fear, into the hands of 
Indians, where a few years ago an escort of fifty men was 
necessary for safety, and shall have to pass places which 
have been battle grounds between traders and Indians. 

The gentlemen belonging to the Hudson Bay Company 
are worthy of commendation for their good treatment of 
the Indians, by which they have obtained their friendship 
and confidence, and also for the efforts, which some few of 
them have made to instruct those about them in the first 
principles of our holy religion ; especially in regard to 
equity, humanity, and morality. This company is of long 
standing, have become rich in the fur trade, and intend to 
perpetuate the business ; therefore they consult the prosper- 
ity of the Indians as intimately connected with their own. 
I have not heard, as yet, of a single instance of any Indians 
being wantonly killed by any of the men belonging to this 
company. Nor have I heard any boasting among them of 
the satisfaction taken in killing or abusing Indians, that I 
have elsewhere heard. 

Thursday, 8th. My three Walla Walla Indians having 



A VOYAGE COMMENCED. 133 

got all things in readiness, mats, provisions, &c. furnished 
by the kindness of Mr. Pambrun, and he having given them 
their instructions, I went on board the canoe at nine o'clock 
in the morning, and having passed the usual salutations, 
we shoved off, and gently glided down the river, which here 
is three-fourths of a mile wide. I felt myself in a new 
situation — my horses dismissed — in a frail canoe upon the 
wide waters of the Columbia, subject to winds, and with 
rapids and falls on the way, and among stranger Indians, 
two hundred miles by water before I could expect to find 
any white men ; to pass through several nations whose Ian- 
guages are entirely different; yet the change from horse- 
back, for months over mountains and plains, through defiles 
and ravines, was anticipated with satisfaction. 

My three Indians were well acquainted with the river and 
with the art of managing the canoe. One of them under- 
stood the Nez Perce language tolerably well, was very lo- 
quacious and vain, and wished to be thought a man of im- 
portance. He told me he was to do the talking, and the 
other two were to do as he should direct. On account of his 
importance and loquacious habits I called him my orator. 
One of the other two, who took the stern and steered the 
canoe, was a stout, brawny, savage looking man, excepting 
the expression of his countenance, which was indicative of 
intelligence and good nature. The third, who took the bow, 
was an able and well disposed young man. The channel 
through the volcanic mountain, a little below the fort, is one 
of the wonders of nature ; how it was formed through these 
immensely hard basaltic rocks to the depth of about three 
hundred feet, and for the distance of two or three miles, 
remains unexplained. But my attention was so much 
taken up with the boiling eddies and the varying currents, 



134 CAYUSE INDIANS. 

that I did not take these observations which under different 
circumstances might have been made, and which the scenery 
and phenomena demanded. In one place, as we passed out 
of the mountain channel, the river ran so rapidly over a 
rocky bed, and the water was so broken, that I thought it 
unsafe to continue in the canoe, and requested my Indians 
to put me ashore. My talking Indian said, " tois," (good.) 
I told him, waiitu tois, kapseis, (not good, but bad.) But still 
he said, tois, tois, and I concluded, that they would not de- 
cline putting me on shore, if there was any particular dan- 
ger. The man at the stern put off into the middle of the 
river, where the water was the smoothest, but where the 
current was equally strong, and with his keen eye fixed upon 
the varying eddies, applied his brawny arms to the work ; 
and whenever a change of his paddle from one side of the 
canoe was necessary, it was done in the twinkling of an eye. 
Any failure of right management would have been disas- 
trous ; but they kept the canoe in the right direction, and 
we shot down with such velocity, as, together with the 
breaking in of some water, to cause solicitude. But this 
served to make the smooth parts, when we arrived at them, 
more pleasant, and to render my mind more tranquil in re- 
gard to future dangers. 

At two o'clock in the afternoon, we called at an encamp- 
ment of Cayuse Indians of about a dozen lodges. When 
we had come within hearing, my orator announced our 
approach and informed them who I was, and the object of 
my tour, and that they must prepare to receive me with 
all due respect — that I was not a trader, and that I had not 
come with goods, but to teach them how to worship God. 
They arranged themselves in single file, the chiefs and 
principal men forward, then the more common men, next 



MORNING PROSPECT. 135 

the women, according to their rank, the wives of chiefs, 
the old women, the young — and then the children accor- 
ding to age. All things being made ready, the salute was 
fired, and I landed and shook hands with all, even the 
youngest children, many of whom, when they presented 
the hand, would turn away their faces through fear. I 
made them some presents, and bought of them some dried 
salmon and cranberries. These were the first cranber- 
ries I had seen west of the Rocky Mountains, and they 
were a grateful acid. The Indians expressed much satis- 
faction in seeing me, and the object of my coming among 
them. I told them I could not explain to them all I wished, 
but they must meet me next spring at Walla Walla, where 
I should have an interpreter, and then I would tell them 
about God. After again shaking hands with them, we went 
on our way. 

At five o'clock we landed upon the north shore, and en- 
camped near a large number of Nez Perce Indians, who 
came about me with the tokens of friendship and kindness, 
which characterize their nation. Among their acts of kind- 
ness they brought me wood, which in this section of the 
country is scarce ; and gathered small bushes and grass to 
make my bed upon. 

October 9th. We arose before day, and as soon as any 
light appeared, resumed our voyage down the river. The 
morning was pleasant, the country around open and diver- 
sified with rolling prairies, and the distant mountain tops 
were mellowed with the opening beams of the rising sun. 
It was a time for pleasing contemplations, such as ban- 
ished all feelings of solitude, although no sound broke upon 
the ear, except the regularly timed strokes of the paddles 
of my Indians, who were urging forward the canoe with 



136 RAPIDS. 

an accelerated velocity, greater than the current of the 
river would have carried us. 

About the middle of the day, the silence was interrupted 
by the roar of a distant rapid, the sound of which continued 
to increase, until the white breaking water was presented 
to view. For several miles the bed of the river was filled 
with rocks, and several rocky islands and shoals, among 
which the whirling and foaming water was forcing its way. 
The only part of the river, which presented any appearance 
of safety, was along near the south shore. This had some- 
what the appearance of a wake. My Indians made no 
movement for landing, but kept near the middle of the river. 
On my expressing some apprehensions of danger, they point- 
ed toward the wake and said, " tois." I pointed forward 
and toward the north shore, and said, kapseis, (bad.) They 
answered, " ai, kapseis;" and with the language of signs 
accompanying their words, told me they would keep the 
canoe in the good water, and it would not fill, nor be drawn 
into the breakers. My confidence in their skill of manage- 
ment being well established, I made no objection to their 
going forward, and in a very short time we had passed the 
apparent danger, and were gliding along over the smooth 
surface on the south side of a large island, about six miles 
long. 

During the day, the country around was comparatively 
level, covered with a black soil, which appears to have been 
formed by atmospheric agents decomposing the volcanic 
substances, which so generally abound. This section of 
the country is well supplied with grass, which during the 
summer drouth is converted into hay. Who can calculate 
the multitudes of cattle and sheep, which might, be kept 
here summer and winter, with no other labor than the care 



HEAD WIND. 137 

of a few herdsmen and shepherds. We encamped upon the 
north side of the river among some sand hills, a little below 
several lodges of the Walla Walla Indians, to whom I had 
the usual and formal introduction. 

I was pleased to find Indians belonging to different tribes 
scattered along this river, living in harmony without any 
feuds or jealousies. It speaks much in favor of their kind 
and peaceable dispositions. 

On the 10th, we arose before day, after a night's com- 
fortable rest, and by the first breaking light had our bag- 
gage on board and were under way. Towards the middle 
of the day we came to a more mountainous tract of country, 
and at a place where the mountains crossed the river, were 
very rocky rapids, but by winding our way among islands 
near the north shore, we made a safe descent. About noon 
a head wind, which commenced in the forepart of the 
day, had become fresh, and the waves began to multiply 
their white caps, so that it was dangerous navigation for 
our canoe, and we had to land and wait for a more favora- 
ble time. We encamped on the north side of the river, 
under a very high and romantic basaltic mountain ; in 
some parts near us the rocky walls were more than two 
hundred feet in perpendicular height — in one place hanging 
over. In some places, and at different altitudes of this im- 
mense wall, there were cavities of considerable magnitude, 
and in others, wide and deep fissures ; through one of which 
passes the road traveled by pedestrians and those on horse- 
back. This place is ten miles above the falls of the Co- 
lumbia, which the Indians call the ium turn, the same ex- 
pression they use for the beating of the heart. 

About a mile above us, some Walla Wallas were en- 
camped, many of whom came to my tent and wished to en- 

13 



138 TRIAL OF INDIAN GENEROSITY. 

ter into trade with me, offering beaver at a low price. I told 
them to trade was not my business, any farther than to buy 
salmon, &c, for food. My orator told me one of them was 
a Meohot, a chief, and would expect a present. As a trial 
of their disposition, I told him they had not brought me any 
wood for a fire, and I would not give them any thing until 
they showed their kindness. But he said I must make the 
chief a present and buy of them wood. I replied, waiitu, 
if he is a chief let him show the generosity of a chief. 
Very soon they brought wood, and a fire was made, which 
I followed with some presents. 

Sabbath, 11th. We continued in the same encampment, 
and my heart's desire was much excited for the salvation 
of these poor heathen. There was a sufficient number 
here to have made a decent congregation if I had possessed 
any medium of communication. Their language differs 
from the Nez Perces, so that I could have no communica- 
tion with them except through my orator, who asked me if 
he should teach these Indians what he had learned about 
God and his worship. I gave him permission, though I 
feared he was influenced more by love of distinction than 
any higher motive ; but still, I would rejoice, if any true 
light should be imparted to them. 

I arose the latter part of the night of the 12th, and the 
weather being calm, and the moon shining pleasantly, we 
took our departure for the Falls, where we arrived some 
time before day. Above the Falls there is a large island, 
on the south side of which is a commodious bay, near which 
and upon the river De Shutes, which here unites with the 
Columbia, there is a village of the Fall Indians of about 
thirty lodges. Here we landed, and my talker raised his 
oratorical voice to such a note as aroused the whole village, 



LA DALLES. 139 

calling upon the chiefs to arise, and with their people re- 
ceive the personage with him in due form. It was but a 
short time before their line was formed, the first chief lead- 
ing the way, and others according to their rank and age 
following, and the ceremony of shaking hands was per- 
formed ; and all retired to their lodges again. 

There is a great want of neatness among Indians in gen- 
eral, but more especially among those on this river, who 
live by fishing. 

Here we left our canoe, and took horses and proceeded 
by land, upon the south side of the river, passing by the Falls, 
and down the La Dalles, six miles. From the lower end 
of the island where the rapids begin, to the perpendicular 
fall, is about two miles ; and here the river contracts, when 
the water is low, to a very narrow space, and with only a 
short distance of swift water, it makes its plunge twenty feet 
or more perpendicular ; and then, after a short distance of 
rapids, dashing against the rocks, moves on in a narrow 
passage, filled with rapids and eddies, among volcanic rocks, 
called the La Dalles, four miles ; and then spreads out into 
a gentle broad channel. At the Falls and the La Dalles 
below, there are several portages, where boats and canoes, 
as well as baggage, have to be transported. The geolog- 
ical formation along this distance is singular. With the 
exception of a few high hills and bluffs, the shore and 
lands around are but little above the river in the freshet 
rise ; and yet the channel of the river is through the hard- 
est basalt and amygdaloid. Has this channel worn this 
solid rock formation ? If so, at what time ? There is no 
appearance of the channel having worn perceptibly deeper, 
since the rocks, from their melted state, were spread out 
into their present condition, which must have taken place 



140 BOSTON TRADING COMPANY. 

centuries and centuries ago. As I have no confidence in 
theories founded upon conjecture, nor in Indian traditions, I 
leav.e the subject for others to tell us how these things took 
place. Former visiters, among whom I name Doct. Gard- 
ner, a learned English naturalist whom I saw at Oahu, 
Sandwich Islands, expressed his entire inability satisfactor- 
ily to account for this peculiar phenomenon. Nor does the 
Indian tradition, that the Great Wolf made this, together 
with all the scenery that delighted my eye as I passed down 
the river, relieve the mind of its irrepressible curiosity. 
This is one of the best locations for salmon fishing, and 
great numbers of Indians collect in the season of taking 
them, which commences the last of April, or the first of 
May, and continues several months. 

At the lower part of the La Dalles, I found Capt. Wyeth, 
from Boston, with a small company of men going up the 
river to Fort Hall. Capt. Wyeth, who is an intelligent and 
sociable man, had the charge of the business of a company 
formed in Boston, for salmon fishing on the Columbia, and 
for trade and trapping in the region of the mountains. Tho 
plan of the company was to send a ship annually around 
Cape Horn into Columbia river, to bring out goods for trade, 
and to take home the salmon and furs which should be ob- 
tained during the year. It was expected that the profits on 
the salmon would defray all common expenses, and that 
the profits on the furs would be clear, and yield a handsome 
income. But thus far the enterprise has been attended with 
many disasters, and the loss of many lives — several of the 
men were drowned, and others killed by Indians. 

Here I dismissed my Walla Walla Indiansto return, and 
TilkT, the first chief of the La Dalles Indians, engaged to 
furnish me with a canoe and men to carry me to Fort Van- 



UNUSUAL PHENOMENON. 141 

eouver. I spent the night with Capt. Wyeth, and obtained 
from him a short vocabulary of the Chenook language, to 
enable me to do common business with the Indians residing 
along on the lower part of this river. 

Tuesday, 13th. I left at nine o'clock in the morning, in 
the canoe with three men furnished by Tilkl, and made 
good progress down the river, which here flows in a wide 
and gentle current. Many parts of the way, the river is 
walled up with high and perpendicular basalt. At the La 
Dalles commences a wooded country, which becomes more 
and more dense as we descend, and more broken with high 
hills and precipices. I observed a remarkable phenome- 
non — trees standing in their natural position in the river, 
in many places where the water is twenty feet deep, and 
rising to high or freshet water mark, which is fifteen feet 
above the low water. Above the freshet rise, the tops of the 
trees are decayed and gone. I deferred forming an opinion 
in regard to the cause, until I should collect more data. 
About the middle of the day a south wind began to blow, 
and continued to increase until it became necessary to 
go on shore and encamp, which we did about four in the 
afternoon. 

On the 14th, we did not make much progress on account 
of wind and rain. We encamped in a cavern under a 
large projecting rock, the upper part of which was formed 
of basalt, the lower of conglomerate. Although this was 
at least six miles from the Cascades, yet the roar of the wa- 
ter could be distinctly heard. The same phenomenon of 
the trees continued. 1 paid particular attention to the con- 
dition of the shores of the river, and the adjacent hills and 
mountains, to see if there were any escarpments presenting 

such condition, as would furnish evidence of their having 
13* 



142 REMARKABLE SUBSIDENCE. 

descended by landslips ; but as there were no such appear- 
ances, and the condition of the trees was the same where 
there were no hills and mountains near, I was led to con- 
jecture, that I should find the river at the Cascades dammed 
up with volcanic productions ; and I was induced to be- 
lieve it would be found so, from the fact, that the river, the 
whole distance from the La Dalles, is wide and deep, and 
moves with a sluggish current. 

On the loth, the wind and rain continuing through the 
morning, I did not leave my encampment until noon, when 
we set forward and arrived at the Cascades at two o'clock 
in the afternoon. The trees, to-day, were still more nu* 
merous, in many places standing in deep water, and we had 
to pick our way with the canoe in some places, as through 
a forest. The water of the river is so clear, that I had an 
opportunity of examining their position down to the spread- 
ing roots, and found them in the same condition as when 
standing in the natural forest. As I approached the Cas- 
cades, instead of finding an embankment formed from vol- 
canic eruptions, the shores above the falls were low, and the 
velocity of the water began to accelerate two-thirds of a 
mile above the main rapid. On a full examination, it is 
plainly evident that here has- been a subsidence of a tract of 
land, more than twenty miles in length, and about a mile in 
width. The trees standing in the water are found mostly 
towards and near the north shore, and yet, from the depth 
of the river and its sluggish movement, I should conclude 
the subsidence affected the whole bed. That the trees are 
not wholly decayed down to low water mark, proves that 
the subsidence is comparatively of recent date ; and their 
undisturbed, natural position, proves that it took place in a 
tranquil manner, not by any tremendous convulsion of na- 



THE CASCADES. 143 

ture. The cause lies concealed, but the fact is plain. 
That parts of forests may in this way submerge, is evident 
from similar facts. The noted one on the eastern coast of 
Yorkshire and Lincolnshire, England, is about fifteen feet 
below low water mark, extending eastward a considerable 
distance from the shore, in which stumps and roots of trees 
are seen in their natural position. So manifest is the evi- 
dence of great changes having taken place by volcanic 
power, in these regions west of the Rocky Mountains, both 
by upheaving and subsidence, that we are led to enquire 
whether there are not now such agents in operation, and 
upon such materials, that the valleys shall be literally ex- 
alted, and the mountains be made low, and waters spring up 
in the deserts. 

The Cascades, so called to distinguish them from the 
Falls, do not differ materially from them, except in tha 
wild romantic scenery around. There is no perpendicular 
fall, but the water concentrates, from its wide spread form, 
to a very narrow compass, and then rushes with great im- 
petuosity down an almost perpendicular precipice twenty 
or thirty feet, and continues in a foaming and whirling de- 
scent most of the way five miles farther, where it meets the 
tide waters from the Pacific ocean. Above the falls, in the 
river, there are many islands, but none of them are very 
large — some are only volcanic rocks. The country about 
the Cascades, and many miles below, is very mountainous, 
especially on the south side. The volcanic peaks are as 
diversified in their shapes as they are numerous, being con- 
ical, denticulated, and needle-pointed, rising from one to 
fifteen hundred feet. While imagination generally over- 
draws her pictures, nature here has furnished abundant 
scope for all her powers. 



144 THE PORTAGE. 

A little above the Cascades, upon the north shore, there 
is a small village of Chenooks. These Indians are the only 
real Flatheads and Nez Perces, or pierced noses, I have 
found. They both flatten their heads and pierce their 
noses. The flattening of their heads is not so great a de- 
formity as is generally supposed. From a little above the 
eyes to the apex or crown of the head, there is a depression, 
but not generally in adult persons very noticeable. The 
piercing of the nose is a greater deformity, and is done by 
inserting two small tapering white shells, about two inches 
long, through the lower part of the cartilaginous division of 
the nose. These shells are of the genus dentalium, they 
inhabit the Pacific shore, and are an article of traffic among 
the natives. I called at this village to obtain men to carry 
our canoe by the portage of the Cascades. They wished to 
engage in trade with me in several articles of small value, 
which I declined, informing them that my business was of 
a different nature. While detained, the daughter of the 
chief, fancifully decked out in ornaments, and in all her 
pride and native haughtiness, walked to and fro to exhibit, 
to the best advantage, her fine, erect, and stately person. 

After considerable delay, I obtained four Indians to carry 
the canoe about one hundred rods by the principal rapids, 
or falls, for which I gave each five charges of powder and 
balls ; and an additional reward to one to carry a part of 
my baggage a mile and a half past the most dangerous 
rapids, to a basin just below another rapid, formed by 
large rocks confining the river to a very narrow passage, 
through which it rushes with great impetuosity. My Indians 
ran the canoe over this rapid. I was much concerned for 
their safety ; but they chose to do it. Two years before, 
the men of the Hudson Bay Company cordelled several 



INDIAN BURYING PLACES. 145 

batteaux down this rapid — part of the men going in the 
boats, and part on the shore cordelling. The rope of one 
broke, and the batteau, in spite of the efforts of the men in 
it, was hurried out into the surging and whirling waves 
among the rocks — capsized and all were lost. 

I walked about four miles, until I had passed all the rap- 
ids of any special danger. About three-fourths of a mile 
below the uppermost cascade, following an Indian path, I 
came to a pleasant rise of ground, upon which were several 
houses of a village, inhabited only in time of taking salmon. 
They were both larger and far better constructed than any I 
had seen in any Indian country. They were about sixty feet 
long, and thirty-five wide, the frame- work very well con- 
structed and covered with split planks and cedar bark. A 
little back of these houses a small beautiful lake spreads it- 
self out, on the surface of which some dozens of wild ducks 
were enjoying the quietness of its solitude. As I continued 
down the Indian path, at no great distance from the village, 
I came to several depositories of their dead. They were 
built of plank split from balsam fir and cedar, about eight 
feet long, six wide, and five high, and well covered. At 
one end is what may be called a door, upon which are 
paintings of various devices, which do not appear to be de- 
signed for any other purpose than for ornament. Some had 
painting upon the sides as well as upon the doors. I had 
with me two Indians who paid no particular attention to 
them, more than we should in passing a burying ground. 
They pointed me to them, and made a short, solemn pause, 
without any actions which would indicate their paying hom- 
mage to the pictures or any other object. The number of 
these depositories I did not ascertain, as many of them were 
so far decayed, as to be hardly distinguishable ; but there 



146 BEAUTIFUL WATERFALL. 

were eight or ten in good condition. Below this we passed 
several houses of less magnitude than those above ; and 
while the floors of those were on a level with the surface 
of the ground, these were sunk about four feet below, and 
the walls rose only about three feet above the ground. It 
would seem that these were designed for winter habitations, 
but at this time their occupants were all absent. At the 
distance of four miles below the main cataract, the coun- 
try, on the north side, spreads out into a level fertile plain, 
which near the river is a prairie, a little distance back 
covered with dense forests ; while on the south side of the 
river it is very mountainous. 

Toward the lower part of Brant island I re-embarked, 
and we proceeded a few miles farther and encamped below 
Pillar rock, over against an extraordinary cascade of water 
which descends the mountain from the south. Pillar rock 
is of basaltic formation, situated on the north side of the 
river, a few rods from the shore, on a narrow strip of rich 
bottom-land, wholly isolated, rising five hundred feet on 
the river side perpendicular, and on the others nearly so. 
Upon all, except the river side, there are narrow offsets 
upon which grow some cedars, and also a few upon the 
highest point. The base in proportion to the height, is 
very small, giving the whole the appearance of an enor- 
mous pillar. This is one of the astonishing wonders of 
volcanic operations. 

The cascade upon the south side of the river first strikes 
the view at an elevation of not less than a thousand feet ; 
and by several offsets the water descends in a white foaming 
sheet, at an angle of sixty or eighty degrees, presenting the 
appearance of a belt laid upon the side of the mountain. 
In two places the descent is perpendicular, the lowest is 



CIVILIZATION. 147 

i 

probably not less than two hundred feet, and before the 
stream reaches the bottom, it is dissipated into spray and 
disappears, until you see it again collecting itself at the 
foot of the mountain, and after wending its way a short dis- 
tance, it unites with the Columbia. The whole scene, com- 
bining the ruggedness_and wildness of nature's most roman- 
tic forms, with its most magnificent, filled my mind with 
admiration both of the work and its Author. 

On the morning of the 16th, I arose before day, called 
my Indians, and as soon as any light appeared, we again 
launched into the broad river, in our frail canoe. For 
about ten miles, the surrounding country was mountainous, 
forming bold shores, after which the mountains recede, 
and the river spreads out in some places from one to three 
miles wide, and an extensive region around presents the 
appearance of a rich soil well adapted to agriculture. 
There are some fine prairies, but the greatest part is 
thickly wooded. In this part of the river are many fer- 
tile islands, some of which are large ; the current moves 
on gently, and the whole scenery around is fascinating. 
As I descended towards the Pacific ocean, water fowl, such 
as geese, swans, and a very great variety of ducks, began 
to multiply ; also every now and then seals made their 
appearance, so that I became cheered with the increasing 
exhibitions of animated nature, greater than I had witness- 
ed since leaving the buffalo country. Unexpectedly, about 
the middle of the day, on the north shore in a thick grove 
of large firs, I saw two white men, with a yoke of oxen, 
drawing logs for sawing. I hailed them, and enquired of 
them the distance to Fort Vancouver. They replied, 
u only seven miles around yonder point, down that prai- 
rie." Soon we came to a large saw-mill, around which 



148 PROVIDENCE. 

were large piles of lumber and several cottages. This 
looked like business upon a much larger scale than I had 
expected. I called a short time at this establishment, 
where I found several Scotch laborers belonging to the 
Hudson Bay Company, with their Indian families. Al- 
though it was then about noon, they offered me a break- 
fast of peas and fish, taking it for granted that men who 
travel these western regions, eat only when they can get 
an opportunity. At two in the afternoon, we arrived at 
Fort Vancouver, and never did I feel more joyful to set 
my feet on shore, where I expected to find a hospitable 
people and the comforts of life. Doct. J. McLaughlin, a 
chief factor and the superintendent of this fort, and of the 
business of the Company west of the Rocky Mountains, 
received me with many expressions of kindness, and invited 
me to make his residence my home for the winter, and as 
long as it would suit my convenience. Never could such 
an invitation be more thankfully received. 

It was now seven months and two days since I left my 
home, and during that time, excepting a few delays, I had 
been constantly journeying, and the last fifty-six days, with 
Indians only. I felt that I had great reason for gratitude 
to God for his merciful providences toward me, in defend- 
ing and so providing for me, that I had not greatly suffered 
a single day for the want of food. For months I had no 
bread nor scarcely any vegetables, and I often felt that a 
change and a variety would have been agreeable, but in no 
instance did I suffer, nor in any case was I brought to the 
necessity of eating dogs or horseflesh. In every exigency 
something wholesome and palatable was provided. 



FORT VANCOUVER. 149 



CHAPTER IX. 

Description of Fort Vancouver^-departurefor Fort George and mouth 
of the Columbia — mouths of the Multnomah — Wappatoo island — 
May Dacre — Coffin rock- — Cowalitz river— Indian friendship— Pa- 
cific ocean — Gray's bay — Astoria. 

Fort Vancouver is situated on the north side of the Co- 
lumbia river, about sixty rods from the shore, upon a prairie 
of some few hundred acres, surrounded with dense woods. 
The country around, for a great distance, is generally level 
and of good soil, covered with heavy forests, excepting 
some prairies interspersed, and has a pleasant aspect. It 
is in north latitude 45° 37', and longitude 122° 50', west 
from Greenwich — one hundred miles from the Pacific 
ocean. The enclosure is strongly stoccaded, thirty-seven 
rods long, and eighteen rods wide, facing the south. There 
are about one hundred white persons belonging to this es- 
tablishment, and an Indian population of three hundred in 
a small compass contiguous. There are eight substantial 
buildings within the enclosure, and a great number o^ 
email ones without. 

October 17th. After a night's rest in this fort, I left for 
Fort George, situated ninety-one miles below, near the con- 
fluence of the Columbia with the Pacific, known in the 
United States by the name of Astoria. I took this early 
departure that I might visit the lower part of the river and 
the sea coast, and return before the rainy season should 
commence ; and also to avail myself of a passage in the 

May Dacre, from Boston, Capt. Lambert, a brig belonging 

14 



150 WAPPATOO ISLAND. 

to Captain Wyeth and Company, which was lying twenty- 
three miles below, at the lowest mouth of the Multnomah. 
Mr. J. K. Townsend, an ornithologist from Philadelphia, 
accompanied me to the brig. Our canoe was large and pro- 
pelled by Sandwich Islanders, of whom there are many 
in this country, who have come here as sailors and laborers. 
Five miles below the fort, we passed the main branch of the 
Multnomah. It is a large river, coming from the south, and 
is divided by islands into four branches at its confluence 
with the Columbia. Here commences the Wappatoo island, 
so called from a nutritive root found in the small lakes 
in the interior, which is much sought for by Indians as 
an article of food. This island is about eighteen miles 
long, and five miles wide, formed by a part of the Multno- 
mah, branching off* about six miles up the main river, run- 
ning in a westerly and north-westerly direction, and uni- 
ting with the Columbia eighteen miles below the main 
branch. The branch which flows around and forms the 
island, is about fifteen rods wide, and of sufficient depth for 
small shipping most of the year. It was upon this island 
the Multnomah Indians formerly resided, but they have 
become as a tribe extinct. The land is very fertile, and 
most of it sufficiently high to be free from injury by the 
June freshet. Some parts of it are prairie, but the greatest 
part is well wooded with oak, ash, balsam fir, and the spe- 
cies of poplar often called balm of Gilead, and by most 
travelers, cotton-wood. At the south-west of this island, 
there is a range of mountains which render a space of the 
country broken, but beyond these, it is said by hunters, that 
there is an extensive valley well adapted to agriculture. 

We arrived at the landing place of the May Dacre, at 
five o'clock in the afternoon, and were politely received on 



MAY DACRE. 151 

board by Capt. Lambert. The brig was moored alongside 
a natural wharf of basalt. 

Sabbath, October 18th. Part of the day I retired to a 
small prairie back from the river, to be free from the noise 
of labor in which the men were engaged in preparing for 
their voyage ; and part of it I passed in the state room 
which was assigned me. There is much reason to lament 
the entire disregard manifested by many towards God's 
holy Sabbath. His justice will not always be deferred. 
Those who will not submit to divine authority, must reap 
the fruit of theii disobedience. None can slight and abuse 
the mercy of God with impunity. 

Monday, 19th. The brig fell down the river with the 
tide, about three miles, but for the want of wind anchored. 
In the afternoon, I went on shore for exercise, taking with 
me a kanaka, that is, a Sandwich islander, for assistance in 
any danger. I made a long excursion through woods and 
over prairies, and found the country pleasant and fertile. 
The grass on the prairies was green, and might furnish 
subsistence for herds of cattle. When will this immensely 
extended and fertile country be brought under cultivation, 
and be filled with an industrious population 1 From time 
immemorial, the natives have not stretched forth a hand to 
till the ground, nor made an effort to cause the earth to 
yield a single article of produce, more than springs up 
spontaneously ; nor will they, until their minds are enligh- 
tened by divine truth. No philanthropist, who is not under 
the influence of Christian principles, will ever engage in 
the self-denying work of enlightening their minds, and 
arousing them from their indolence. As on our frontiers, 
so on these western shores, the work of destruction, intro- 
duced by those who would be called the friends of man, is 



152 DEER ISLAND COFFIN ROCK. 

going forward. The Indians in this lower country, that is, 
below the Cascades, are only the remnants of once numer- 
ous and powerful nations. 

The evening was clear and pleasant, which gave us an 
opportunity to see the comet which was observed by Hal- 
ley in the year 1682, and which was seen again in 1759, 
and now in 1835, proving its time of revolution to be about 
seventy-six and a half years. Its train of light was very 
perceptible and about twelve degrees in length. 

We had a favorable wind on the 20th, which, with the 
current of the river, enabled us to make good progress on 
our way. Among the many islands, with which the lower 
part of this river abounds, Deer Island, thirty-three miles 
below Fort Vancouver, is worthy of notice. It is large, and 
while it is sufficiently wooded along the shores, the interior 
is chiefly a prairie covered with an exuberant growth of 
grass and vines of different kinds, excepting the grape, of 
which there is no indigenous species west of the Rocky 
Mountains. In the interior of this island there are several 
small lakes, the resort of swans, geese and ducks. This 
island was formerly the residence of many Indians, but they 
are gone, and nothing is left except the remains of a large 
village. 

Among some interesting islands of basalt, there is one 
called Coffin Rock, twenty-three miles below Deer island, 
situated in the middle of the river, rising ten or fifteen feet 
above high freshet water. It is almost entirely covered 
with canoes, in which the dead are deposited, which circum- 
stance gives it its name. In the section of country from 
Wappatoo island to the Pacific ocean, the Indians, instead 
of committing the dead to the earth, deposit them in ca- 
noes, and these are placed in such situations as are most 



CAPT. LAMBERT AND THE SKILLOOT CHIEF. 153 

secure from beasts of prey ; upon such precipices as this 
island, upon branches of trees, or upon scaffolds made for 
the purpose. The bodies of the dead are covered with mats, 
and split planks are placed over them. The head of the 
canoe is a little raised, and at the foot there is a hole made 
for water to escape. 

A few miles below Coffin island, the Cowalitz, a river 
coming from the north-east, flows into the Columbia, which 
is about thirty rods wide, deep, and navigable for boats a 
very considerable distance. The country up this river is 
said to equal, in richness of soil, any part of the Oregon 
Territory, and to be so diversified with woods and prairies, 
that the farmer could at once reap the fruits of his labor. 

On account of numerous sand-bars and windings of the 
navigable channel, we anchored for the night. The evening 
was cloudy, and there was the appearance of a gathering 
storm ; but we were so surrounded with high hills, that the 
situation was considered safe. 

The wind, on the 21st, was light, and our progress, there- 
fore was slow. This section of the country is mountain- 
ous, the ranges running nearly from the south-east to the 
north-west, and covered with a very dense and heavy 
growth of wood, mostly fir and oak. A chief of the Skil- 
loots with a few of his people came on board. He was very 
talkative and sportive. When he was about to leave, he 
told Capt. L. that as they had been good friends, and were 
now about to separate, he wished a present. Capt. L. told 
his steward to give him a shirt The chief took it and 
put it on, and then saidj " how much better would a new pair 
of pantaloons look with this shirt." The captain ordered 
him the article asked for. Now, said the chief, "a vest 

would become me, and increase my influence with m y peo- 

14* 



154 PILLAR ROCK. 

pie." This was also given. Then he added, " well, Tie,* 
I suppose we shall not see each other again, can you see me 
go away without a clean blanket, which would make me a 
full dress." The captain answered, "go about your busi- 
ness ; for there is no end to your asking so long as I con- 
tinue to give." Then the chief brought forward a little son, 
and said, " he is a good boy ; will you not make him a pres- 
ent ?" Capt. L. gave him a few small articles, and they 
went away rejoicing over the presents which they had re- 
ceived, instead of regretting the departure of the May Da- 
cre. We passed to-day Pillar rock, which stands in the 
river, isolated, more than half a mile from the north shore, 
composed of basalt, and* is about forty feet high and fifteen 
in diameter. We anchored a few miles below. 

On the morning of the 22d, we waited for a favorable 
tide until nine o'clock, when we got under way with a brisk 
wind from the east. Here the river begins to spread out 
into a bay, but owing to many shoals, the navigation is 
difficult. We ran aground, but the increase of the tide set 
us afloat again, and soon the great Pacific ocean opened to 
our view. This boundary of the "far west" was to me an 
object of great interest ; and when I looked upon the dark 
rolling waves, and reflected upon the vast expanse of five 
thousand miles, without an intervening island until you ar- 
rive at the Japan coast, a stretch of thought was required, 
like contemplating infinity. Like the vanishing lines of 
perspective, so is contemplation lost in tbis extent of ocean. 

As we proceeded on our way, we left Gray's bay at the 
right, extending inland to the north some few miles, in which 
on a voyage of discovery, the ship Columbia anchored, and 

*.Chief, or gentleman. 



ASTORIA. 155 

from whose commander the bay took its name. Nearly- 
opposite we passed Tongue Point, which extends about two 
miles into the bay or river, from the south. It is consider- 
ably elevated, rocky, and covered with woods. Soon after 
this, Astoria was announced. My curiosity was excited. I 
looked, but could not discover what to all on board was so 
plainly seen — I blamed my powers of vision — and reluc- 
tantly asked the captain, where is Astoria? "Why," he 
replied, " right down there — that is Astoria !" I saw two 
log cabins, and said within myself, is that the far-famed 
"New York of the west ?" 



156 FORT GEORGE. 



CHAPTER X. 

Description of Fort George — mouth of the Columbia — dangerous bar 
— mountainous coast — varieties of timber — good location for a mis- 
sionary station — continued rains — dense forests — exeursion in a 
canoe down the bay — view of the coast — disasters at the entrance 
of the Columbia — ship William and Anne — ship Isabella — Tonquin 
— Japanescjunk — reflections — water fowl — return to'Fort Vancou- 
ver — the regard Indians show the dead — Indian kindness. 

When we arrived in the small bay, upon which Fort 
George (Astoria) is situated, Captain L. manned a boat to 
take me on shore, in which he also embarked to pay his 
respects to the governor, who had the politeness to meet us 
at the landing, and invited us, with hearty welcome, to his 
dwelling. After having interchanged the customary salu- 
tations and made a short stay, the captain re-embarked and 
made his way for Cape Disappointment ; and the wind and 
tide being favorable, he passed the dangerous bar without 
any delay, and shaped his course for Boston. Fort George 
is situated on the south side of the bay, ten miles from Cape 
Disappointment, is without any fortifications, has only two 
small buildings made of hewed logs ; about two acres 
cleared, a part of which is cultivated with potatoes and 
garden vegetables. It is occupied by two white men of the 
Hudson Bay Company, for the purpose of trade with the 
few remaining Indians who reside about these shores. 
Though this is the present condition of Astoria, yet the 
time must come, when at the mouth of this noble river there 
will be a commercial city, and especially may this be ex- 



MOUTH OF THE COLUMBIA. 157 

pected, as this bay affords the only good harbor for a long 
distance on this coast. I should think the north side of the 
bay, a little above the cape, adjoining what is called Ba- 
ker's bay, would be the most desirable location for a town, 
as that is the safest place for ships to ride at anchor ; and 
on that side of the Columbia bay, the country is more open 
and pleasant for a commercial town. On the south side, 
where Astoria was located, the mountains or high hills come 
down very near the shore, are rocky and precipitous, pre- 
venting a southern prospect, and in the short winter days of 
a north latitude of 46° 17' they almost exclude the sun. 

A difficulty, of a nature that is not easily overcome, exists 
in regard to the navigation of this river, namely, the sand- 
bar at its entrance. It is about five miles across the bar 
from Cape Disappointment out to sea. In no part of that 
distance is the water upon the bar over eight fathoms deep, 
in one place only five, and the channel is only about half 
a mile wide. And so wide and open is the ocean, that there 
is always a heavy swell, and when the wind is above a 
gentle breeze, there are breakers quite across the bar, so 
that there is no passing it except when the wind and tide are 
both very favorable. Without the bar there is no anchor- 
age, and there have been instances, in the winter season, of 
ships laying off and on, thirty days, waiting for an opportu- 
nity to pass ; a good pilot is always needed. Perhaps there 
have been more lives lost here, in proportion to the number 
of those who have entered this river, than in entering almost 
any other harbor in the world. But the calamities have been 
less frequent for some years past, than formerly ; and should 
a steam-boat be stationed at the cape, to tow vessels over, 
when business shall be sufficiently multiplied to warrant the 
expense, the delays and dangers would be greatly diminished . 



158 VARIETIES OF TIMBER. 

The main bay is four miles wide at the mouth of the 
river, between Cape Disappointment and Point Adams ; 
extends sixteen miles up the river ; is nine miles wide be- 
tween Chenook bay on the north and Young's bay on the 
south ; and seven miles wide between Fort George and 
Chenook point. It is filled with many sand-bars, and one, 
which is called Sand Island, a little within the capes, seen 
only when the tide is down, is dangerous to ships when not 
in the charge of skilful pilots. 

The section of country about the sea coast is rough and 
mountainous, and covered with the most heavy and dense 
forest of any part of America of which I have any knowl- 
edge. The trees are almost all of the genus pinus, but I 
saw none of the species commonly called pine, any where 
below the Cascades. The balsam fir, of which there are 
three species, constitute the greatest part of the forest trees. 
White cedar, spruce, hemloc, and yew, are interspersed. 
Three species of oak, of which the white is most common, 
prevail in both sections; and in some low bottom-lands, 
the species of poplar, called the balm of Gilead, or bitter 
cotton wood, predominates. The balsam fir grows very 
large ; not unfrequently four and six feet in diameter, and 
two hundred feet high. I measured one which was eight 
feet in diameter, and about two hundred and fifty feet high. 
As I do not here intend to enter upon the dendrology of this 
country, I omit farther remarks upon this subject for the 
present. 

The quality of the land is good ; and some tracts of this 
mountainous, iron bound coast might easily be brought un- 
der cultivation. One section lies about Young's bay, ex-, 
tending to and about Point Adams. This would be a favor- 
able location for a missionary station, where access could 



LAND EXCURSION. 



159 



be had to the Clatsop and Killamook Indians, who are said 
to be numerous. 

At this season of the year, there are but few Indians 
who reside, about this trading post, finding it more for their 
comfort to retire into the forests during the rainy season of 
the winter, locating themselves upon small prairies along 
rivers and streams, where fuel is easily obtained, and where 
some game is found to add to their winter's stock of pro- 
visions. 

During my continuance in this place it was my inten- 
tion to cross the bay over to Chenook point, and from 
thence down to Cape Disappointment, which it is said affords 
a very extensive and interesting prospect. But from day 
to day it rained, and the high winds created such a sea 
in the whole bay, that it was not safe to attempt a pas- 
sage. 

On the 24th, the wind was high, and the weather very 
uncomfortable, and in the afternoon the storm increased, 
accompanied with snow, which, however, melted as fast as 
it fell. The sea fowl appeared to be alarmed by the sever- 
ity of so early and unexpected a storm of snow, and came 
in from the ocean in great numbers, flying and screaming, 
as if in search of a safe retreat. 

The storm being somewhat abated, on the 26th, Mr. 
Dunn, the superintendent of the fort, and myself, took our 
rifles to go back into the woods to hunt deer for exercise. 
But so dense was the forest, so filled and interwoven with 
various vines and shrubbery, that it was next to impossible 
to make any progress, and we did not penetrate the woods 
more than a mile, before we gave up the object, and turned 
our course back, but our return, with diligent efforts, occu- 
pied some hours. If a luxuriant growth of trees and shrub- 



160 A WATER EXCURSlOxN. 

bery is indicative of a rich soil, no part of the world can 
surpass the country around these shores. 

The morning of the 27th was pleasant and inviting for a 
water excursion ; yet in view of the sudden changes of 
weather, which are common at this season of the year, I 
did not think best to cross the wide bay, but took four Che- 
nook Indians, and a half breed named Thos. Pish Kiplin, 
who could speak English, and we went in a large canoe 
down to Clatsop and Point Adams, nine miles from the fort. 
There was a gentle wind from the east, which favored hois- 
ting a small sail. This gave us a pleasant sail until it in- 
creased to the rate of eight miles an hour ; by this time the 
waves had become so high, and the white caps were so nu- 
merous, that, to one not acquainted with nautical adventures, 
the danger in a canoe appeared imminent. We could only 
run before the wind, and when we were upon the top of one 
wave, it seemed the next plunge would be fatal. Fears 
were of no avail in this situation, and I therefore kept up 
such conversation as was calculated to suppress any which 
might arise in the minds of the men. It was interesting to 
see how the Indians would take the waves with their pad- 
dles so as to favor the safety of the canoe. But our rapid 
progress soon brought us to the shore near Point Adams. 
Here a new and unexpected difficulty presented itself, and 
this was the almost utter impracticability of effecting a land- 
ing in the high surf; but my skilful mariners watched an 
opportunity to shoot the canoe forward as far as possible on 
a flowing wave, and as soon as it broke, they leaped into 
the water, seized the canoe, lightened it over the returning 
surge, and drew it up beyond the reach of the waves. This 
management was an occular demonstration of the skill of 
Indians on dangerous seas. I took Kiplin with me and 



LOSS OF THE WILLIAM AND ANNE. 161 

walked several miles on the hard and smooth sandy beach, 
so far around to the south, that I had a view of the coast 
north and south, as far as the eye could reach. High ba- 
saltic rocks, in most parts perpendicular, lined the shores. 
Who reared these volcanic walls but that Being, who sets 
bounds to the sea, and has said, " hitherto shalt thou come, 
but no farther, and here shall thy proud waves be stayed." 
This vast expanse of ocean and these stupendous works of 
God fill the mind with awe. 

In returning, I walked several miles beyond the place 
where we landed, along the shore towards Young's bay, and 
went on board the brig Lama, Captain McNeil, which was 
on its way up to the fort. In my excursion about Clatsop 
and Point Adams, I saw several canoes containing the dead, 
deposited as I have already described. 

I have mentioned the bar at the mouth of the Columbia, 
and Sand Island, as dangerous to those who were not well 
acquainted with the entrance into this river. In the year 
1838, the ship William and Anne was cast away a little 
within the bar. All on board, twenty-six in number, were 
lost, and it could not be ascertained what were the circum- 
stances of the lamentable catastrophe, as no one was left to 
tell the story. There were conjectures that after the ship 
had run aground, the Indians, for the sake of plunder, killed 
the crew. This is only conjecture ; but it is very strange 
thai none escaped, as they were not far from the shore, 
and the beach was sandy. The Indians carried off and se- 
creted whatever of the goods they could find. The men of 
the Hudson Bay Company sent to the chiefs to deliver up 
what they had taken away. They sent to Dr. McLaughlin 
at Fort Vancouver two small articles of no value. Dr. M. 

with an armed force went down to the Chenooks and de- 

15 



162 ISABELLA AND TONQUIN. 

manded a surrender of the goods. The chief, with his war- 
riors, put himself in an attitude of resistance, and fired 
upon the men of the Hudson Bay Company. They re- 
turned the fire with a swivel, not to injure them, but to let 
them know with what force they had to contend, if they 
persisted in their resistance. On this the Indians all fled 
into the woods. Dr. McLaughlin with his men landed and 
searched for the goods, many of which they found. Whilst 
they were searching, the chief was seen skulking and 
drawing near, and cocked his gun, but before he had time 
to fire, one of the white men shot him down. None besides 
were hurt. This was done, as the Hudson Bay Company 
say, not so much for saving the value of the property, as to 
teach the Indians not to expect profit from such disasters, 
and to take away temptation to murder white men for the 
sake of plunder. 

On the 23d of May, 1830, the ship Isabella was cast 
away upon a sand-bar projecting frorn^ Sand Island, which 
is a little within the capes. As soon as she struck, the men 
all deserted her, and without stopping at Fort George, made 
their way to Fort Vancouver. It is thought, that if they 
had remained on board and waited the tide, she might have 
been preserved. The cargo was mostly saved. 

In 1811, the Tonquin, sent out from New York by Mr. 
Astor, to form a fur trading establishment at or near the 
mouth of this river, lost eight men in crossing the bar. 
The calamity resulted from the ignorance of Captain Thorn 
of the dangers, and his great want of prudence. 

About thirty miles south of this river, are the remains of 
a ship sunk not far from the shore. It is not known by 
whom she was owned, nor from what part of the world she 
came, nor when cast away. The Indians frequently get 



JAPANESE. 163 

beeswax from her, and it is highly probable that she was 
from some part of Asia* 

A Japanese junk was cast away, fifteen miles south of 
Cape Flattery in March, 1833. Out of seventeen men only 
three were saved. In the following May, Captain McNeil, 
of the Lama, brought the three survivors to Fort Vancouver, 
where they were kindly treated by the gentlemen of the 
Hudson Bay Company, and in the following October, were 
sent to England, to be forwarded to their own country and 
home.* This junk was loaded with rich China ware, cot- 
ton cloths, and rice. In the same year eleven Japanese, in 
distress, were drifted in a junk to Oahu, Sandwich Islands. 
It is not very uncommon that junks and other craft have 
been found by whale ships in the great Pacific ocean, the 
crews in a state of starvation, without the nautical instru- 
ments and skill necessary to enable them to find their way 
to any port of safety. Undoubtedly many are entirely 
lost, while others drift to unknown shores. 

May not such facts throw light upon the question of the 
original peopling of America, which has engaged the atten- 
tion of men for a long period. While one man demonstrates 
to his own satisfaction, that the first inhabitants of this 



* From documents which have come to hand, since the publication 
of the first edition of this work, I have been led to admire the wisdom 
of Providence, as developed in the case of these three Japanese. On 
their way to their country, they were brought to Macao. It is a well 
known fact that the missionaries have been endeavoring to gain ac- 
cess to the Island of Japan, and to obtain the means of acquiring the 
language of the inhabitants. These three Japanese, having been so 
long in foreign countries, were afraid to go to their own country, with- 
out permission from their government, and therefore Mr. GutzlafF was 
enabled to obtain them as teachers, and to assist him in translating 
the Scriptures, and tracts, for distribution among the otherwise inac- 
cessible population of Japan, and thus to impart to them the riches of 
the Gospel of Jesus Christ. 



164 DIFFERENT THEORIES. 

continent must have crossed from the north-east part of Asia, 
because of the resemblance of the people to each othe r, and 
the ease with which the strait is passed in canoes ; another, 
with no less certainty, proves from the diversity of langua- 
ges, from the impossibility of tracing their origin, and from 
other reasons, that an equatorial union of Africa and Amer- 
ica must have existed in some age of the world since the 
universal deluge, and that some violent convulsion of na- 
ture has since dissevered them. Others would recognize in 
the aborigines of this continent the descendants of the Jews, 
and industriously trace in their customs, the ancient wor- 
ship and rites of God's peculiar people. But from whatever 
single or numerical causes they have had their origin, 
their own traditions, and the histories of more civilized na- 
tions, seem alike unable to inform us. Physical causes 
alone, we think, are adequate to account for the many fea- 
tures of resemblance which they possess, though they might, 
at different and distant periods of time have been drifted, 
or in some manner found their way, from remote countries. 
Some see in the aborigines of this country the confirmation 
of their favorite theory, that human institutions and states, 
like human and vegetable nature, have their birth, growth, 
maturity, and decay ; and believe that, as it respects these 
tribes, these tendencies have already, for centuries, been in 
operation to produce their extinction. 

About this time of the year, water fowl of various genera 
and species begin to visit the bays and lagoons, and as the 
season advances, they gradually proceed into the interior of 
the country, where the rivers and lakes abound with them. 
Geese, swans, ducks, and gulls, wing their way over us, and 
their screams, particularly those of the swans, are at times 
almost deafening. The swan is not of the species common 



RETURN TO FORT VANCOUVER. 165 

in the United States. It is the Bewick's swan, and is char- 
acterized by the same unsullied" plumage ; its attitudes and 
motions, while sailing over its liquid element, are equally 
graceful, and its voice is even louder and more sonorous. 
Of the geese there are four kinds ; the white, white fronted, 
the Canada, and Hutchins. Of the ducks, there are the 
black or surf duck, the canvass-back, the blue-bill, the long- 
tailed, the harlequin, the pin-tail, and the golden-eyed. 
The number of these water fowl is immense, and they may 
be seen on the wing, swimming upon the waters, or search- 
ing for food along the shores. They constitute a large item 
of Indian living and trade, and find a conspicuous place up- 
on the tables of the gentlemen engaged in the fur business., 
Wednesday, October 28th. I took passage on board a 
oanoe, going to Fort Vancouver on an express from the La- 
ma, recently arrived from a northern voyage to and about 
Queen Charlotte's Island. The canoe was large, carrying 
about fifteen hundred weight including men and baggage,. 
manned by three white men and three Indians. The day 
was more pleasant than for some time past, a favorable cir- 
cumstance for passing through the bay, and around Tongue 
Point, where the current was so strong that it required the 
full exertion of the men to double it. Ten miles further 
we passed Pillar Rock, a few miles above which we en- 
camped on the north side, where the mountains came down 
so close to the shore, that I hardly found space to pitch my 
tent above high tide water. The men made a large fire r 
which was cheering and most welcome, and the supper 
which they prepared was eaten with a keener appetite 
than many an one amidst all the appliances of wealth and 
luxury. 

On the 29th, we arose before day, and were willing to 
15* 



166 REGARD FOR THE DEAD. 

take an early departure from a place where tide and moun- 
tains disputed the territory. By diligently pursuing our 
way until eight in the evening, we made forty-five miles. 
This was a great day's work in going up the river against 
the current, which is strong when the tide is setting out. 
I noticed on my return a singular rocky point on the north 
shore, a short distance below the Cowalitz, rising nearly 
perpendicular about one hundred feet, separated from the 
adjacent high hills, and very much in the form of Coffin 
Rock. It was covered with canoes containing the dead. 
These depositories are held in great veneration by the In- 
dians. They are not chosen for convenience, but for secu- 
rity against ravenous beasts ; and are often examined by 
the friends of the deceased, to see if the remains of the dead 
repose in undisturbed quiet. And such is their watchful 
care, that the anatomist could rarely make depredations 
without detection, or with impunity. And if they have 
such regard for the dead, are they without affection for their 
living relatives and friends? Are they " callous to all the 
passions but rage ?" Are they " steeled against sympathy 
and feeling ?" And have they no happiness except what 
" exists in the visionary dreaming of those, who never con- 
templated their actual condition V Have those, who charge 
upon the Indian character " sullen gloom, want of curiosity 
and surprise at what is new or striking," had extensive per- 
sonal acquaintance with many different Indian nations and 
tribes ? and have they gained their familiar friendship and 
confidence ? I am firm in the belief, that the character of 
unabused and uncontaminated Indians will not lose in com- 
parison with any other nation that can be named ; and the 
only material difference between man and man, is produced 
by the imbibed principles of the Christian religion. 



INDIAN KINDNESS. . 167 

Wishing to avail ourselves of calm weather and a favor- 
able moon, we kept on our way in the evening until thick- 
ening clouds and descending rain admonished us of the 
necessity of finding an encamping place ; and while doing 
this, we ran upon a log, which came very near upsetting us 
in deep water. But by two men getting out upon the log 
and lifting the canoe, with much exertion we got off safely. 
After passing round a point, we saw a light on the north 
shore, to which we directed our course and landed, where 
we found a small company of Indians encamped under a 
large projecting rock, giving shelter from the storm. They 
kindly shared their accommodations with us, and my tent 
was pitched under the concavity of the rocks ; and mats, 
skins, and blankets, though spread upon small stones, made 
me a comfortable bed. A good fire and a refreshing sup- 
per obliviscited the labors of the day and the dangers of the 
evening. 

We arose on the 30th before day, and although the morn- 
ing was rainy, yet it was sufficiently calm for the express 
to prosecute their voyage. I arranged my mats and skins 
so as to shield myself and baggage from the rain : but the 
men, whose business it was to propel the canoe, were exposed 
to the storm. After a few hours' labor and exposure, we 
arrived at the place where the May Dacre had made her 
harbor, near which the southern section of the Willamette 
discharges its waters into the Columbia. We brought our 
canoe into a small bay indented in the basaltic rocks, and 
drew it" so far upon the shore, that it was thought safe with- 
out any other security ; and all hastened to kindle a fire in 
a thatched building, which was constructed by some Kana- 
kas for the accommodation of the May Dacre. This shel- 
ter was very desirable to protect us from the storm, and to 



168 ARRIVAL AT VANCOUVER. 

give the men an opportunity to dry their clothes. Whilst 
we were preparing and eating our breakfast, the flowing 
tide, which swells the river and slackens the current, but 
does not stop it, took our canoe from its moorings, and 
drifted it a considerable distance down the river. Some 
Indians whose residence was far up the Cowalitz, and who 
were descending the river in their canoes, saw it and re- 
turned with it before we knew that it was gone. This act 
proved them to be susceptible of kindness, and increased 
my confidence in their integrity. The canoe contained 
valuable baggage, and we should have been left without any 
means of going on our way. We could not have crossed 
the Willamette nor the Columbia riverj and if this had 
been accomplished, still to have attempted a return by land 
would have been an almost hopeless undertaking, as the 
forest had an undergrowth which rendered it quite impas- 
sable. The Indians are so much accustomed to travel in 
canoes, that even the poor accommodation of a trail was not 
to be found here, and we should have been compelled to 
dispute every inch of the way with our hatchets. Before 
the middle of the day, the storm abated, and the remainder 
of our way to Fort Vancouver was pleasant, at which 
place we arrived before evening. We were less than three 
days in accomplishing the passage from one fort to the 
other, and these were the only three calm days- for a 
long time before and after. 



WINTER QUARTERS, 169 



CHAPTER XI. 

Review of journeyings — sehool — journey up the Willamette — walk 
upon the pebbly shores — falls — settlement on the Willamette — Me. 
thodist mission — epidemic — voyage down the river-— hospitality of 
Wanaxka — construction of his house— Fort William on the Wap- 
patoo island — astonishing thirst for ardent spirits — return to Fort 
Vancouver, 

Here, by the kind invitation of Dr. McLaughlin, and 
welcomed by the other gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Com- 
pany, I took up my residence for the winter, intending to 
make such excursions as the season will admit and the ob- 
jects of my tour demand. As this is the principal trading 
post of the company, west of the Rocky Mountains, it may 
be expected, that many Indians from different parts of the 
country for considerable distance around, will be seen here 
during winter, and more information may be obtained of 
their character and condition than in any other course I 
could pursue. Here also traders from different stations 
west of the mountains will come in for new supplies, of 
whose personal acquaintance with Indians I may avail 
myself. 

Sabbath, November 1st. By invitation, I preached to a 
congregation of those belonging to this establishment who 
understand English. Many of the laborers are French Ca- 
nadians, who are Roman Catholics, and understand only 
the French language. 

This trading post presents an important field of labor, 
»nd if a Christian influence can be exerted here, it may be 



170 REVIEW OF JOTJRNEYINGS. 

of incalculable benefit to the surrounding Indian popula- 
tion. Let a branch of Christ's kingdom be established here, 
with its concomitant expansive benevolence exerted and 
diffused, and this place would be a centre, from which di- 
vine light would shine out, and illumine this region of 
darkness. This is an object of so much importance, that 
all my powers, and energies, and time, must be employed 
for its accomplishment ; so that I do not feel that I have a 
winter of idle confinement before me. 

Monday, 2d. In taking a review of my journeyings 
since I left my home, I can say, though long in time and 
distance, yet they have been pleasant and full of interest. 
So diversified has been the country through which I have 
passed, and so varied the incidents, and so few real hard- 
ships, that the time and distance have both appeared short. 
Although this mission was thought to be one which would 
probably be attended with as great, if not greater dangers 
and deprivations than any which had been sent into any 
part of the world, yet my sufferings have been so small, 
and my mercies so great, that I can say, if this is taking 
up the cross, let none be dismayed ; for surely Christ's 
yoke is easy and his burden light. I had thought much 
on the prospect of having an opportunity to see whether I 
could " rejoice in sufferings" for the heathen, "and fill up 
that which is behind of the afflictions of Christ in my flesh 
for his body's sake, which is the church," but the protect- 
ing providence of God was so conspicuous and his mer- 
cies so constant, that the opportunity did not appear to 
be presented. As to want, I experienced only enough 
to teach me more sensibly the meaning of the petition, 
"give us this day our daily bread;" and the truth was 
comforting, that " the Lord giveth to all their meat in 



SCHOOL. 171 

due season." I can truly say, " hitherto the Lord hath 
helped me." 

I am very agreeably situated in this place. Rooms in a 
new house are assigned me, well furnished, and all the at- 
tendance which I can wish, with access to as many valu- 
able books as I have time to read ; and opportunities to ride 
out for exercise, and to see the adjoining country ; and in 
addition to all these, the society of gentlemen, enlightened, 
polished, and sociable. These comforts and privileges 
were not anticipated, and are therefore the more grateful. 
There is a school connected with this establishment for 
the benefit of the children of the traders and common labor- 
ers, some of whom are orphans whose parents were attach- 
ed to the Company ; and also some Indian children, who 
are provided for by the generosity of the resident gentle- 
men. They are instructed in the common branches of the 
English language, such as reading, writing, arithmetic, 
grammar and geography ; and together with these, in reli- 
gion and morality. The exercises of the school are closed 
with singing a hymn ; after which, they are taken by their 
teacher to a garden assigned them, in which they labor. 
Finding them deficient in sacred music, I instructed them 
in singing, in which they made good proficiency, and de- 
veloped excellent voices. Among them was an Indian boy, 
who had the most flexible and melodious voice I ever heard. 

It is worthy of notice, how little of the Indian complexion 
is seen in the half breed children. Generally they have 
fair skin, often flaxen hair and blue eyes. The children of 
the school were punctual in their attendance on the three 
services of the Sabbath, and were our choir. 

Monday, Nov. 23d. The weather being pleasant, though 
generally very rainy at this season of the year, as I wished 



172 - JOURNEY UP THE WILLAMETTE. 

to explore the country up the Willamette river, I embraced 
an opportunity of going with Mr. Lucier and family, who 
were returning in a canoe to their residence about fifty 
miles up that river. Doctor McLaughlin furnished and 
sent on board a stock of provisions, three or four times more 
than I should need, if nothing should occur to delay us, but 
such a precaution in this country, is always wise. We 
left Fort Vancouver about one o'clock in the afternoon, 
and proceeded five miles down the Columbia to the en- 
trance of the Multnomah, and about fifteen up the Willam- 
ette before we encamped. The name Multnomah is giv- 
en to a small section of this river, from the name of a tribe 
of Indians who once resided about six miles on both sides 
from its confluence with the Columbia, to the branch which 
flows down the southern side of the Wappatoo island. 
Above this it is called the Willamette. The tide sets up 
this river about thirty miles, to within a few miles of the 
falls, and through this distance the river is wide and deep, 
affording good navigation for shipping. 

The country about the Multnomah, and also some miles 
up the Willamette, is low, and much of it is overflowed in 
the June freshet; but as we ascend, the banks become 
higher, and are more generally covered with woods. The 
country around contains fine tracts of rich prairie, suffi- 
ciently interspersed with woods for all the purposes of fuel, 
fencing and lumber. 

A chain of mountains running from the south south-cast 
to the north north-west, and through which the Columbia 
river passes below Deer Island, extends along the west shore 
of this river for some distance near and below the falls. 

There are probably as many Indians who navigate this 
river with their canoes, as any of the rivers in the lower 



WALK ON SHORE. 173 

country ; many of whom I had an opportunity of observing 
to-day in their busy pursuits, the strokes of whose paddles 
broke in upon the general silence. One company overtook 
us towards evening, and encamped with us upon the eleva- 
ted shore on the east side of the river. Owing to the damp- 
ness of the day, and previous rains, we had some difficulty 
in making a fire, but at lengthit was accomplished, and the 
wood was unsparingly applied. With my tent pitched be- 
fore a large fire, under the canopy of wide branching trees, 
I partook of the stores of my large wicker basket with as 
much satisfaction as could be felt in any splendid mansion. 
The blaze of dry crackling fir threw brilliancy around, 
softened by the dark forest, like the light of the astral 
lamp ; and the burning balsam perfumed the air. The 
latter part of the night, I suffered more with the cold than 
at any time in all my journeying, not having taken with 
me as many blankets as the season required. 

The morning of the 24th was overcast with clouds, and 
rendered chilly by a mist settled near the surface of the 
river, which collecting in a beautiful frosting upon the sur- 
rounding trees, exhibited one of those picturesque fancies, 
which works of art may imitate, but which only nature can 
perfect. Soon after resuming the labor of the day, we 
passed several basaltic islands, some of them of sufficient 
magnitude to enclose a few acres, others only rocky points, 
between which the current was strong, requiring much ef- 
fort for us to make headway. Part of the way from our 
last encampment to the falls, which was six miles, I walked 
along upon the pebbled shore, where I found calcedony, 
agate, jasper, and cornelian of good quality. Two miles 
below the falls, a large, stream comes in from the south-east, 

called Pudding river. Its entrance makes a strong current, 

16 



174 FALLS OF THE WILLAMETTE. 

which we found difficult to stem, so that we were drifted 
back in spite of all our efforts ; but in the second attempt 
we succeeded. We arrived at the falls of the Willamette 
at two o'clock in the afternoon and hired eight Clough-e-wall- 
hah Indians to carry the canoe by the falls, the distance of 
half a mile, and proceeded about five miles farther before 
evening. These falls with the scenery around have much 
to charm and interest. The river above spreads out into a 
wide, deep basin, and runs slowly and smoothly until within 
a half mile of the falls, when its velocity increases, its 
width diminishes, eddies are formed in which the water turns 
back as if loth to make the plunge, but is forced forward by 
the water in the rear, and when still nearer it breaks upon 
the volcanic rocks scattered across the channel ; then, as if 
resigned to its fate, smooths its agitated surges, and precip- 
itates down an almost perpendicular of twenty-five feet, pre - 
senting a somewhat whitened column. It was a pleasant 
day, and the rising mist formed in the rays of the sun a 
beautiful bow ; and the grass about the falls, irrigated by 
the descending mist, was in fresh green. The rocks over 
which the water falls, and along the adjacent shores, are 
amygdaloid and basalt. The opportunities here for water 
power are equal to any that can be found. There cannot 
be a better situation for a factory village than on the east 
side of the river, where a dry wide-spread level extends 
some distance, and the basaltic shores form natural wharves 
for shipping. The whole country around, particularly the 
east side, is pleasant and fertile. And can the period be far 
distant, when there will be here a busy population ? I could 
hardly persuade myself that this river had for many thou- 
sand years, poured its waters constantly down these falls 
without having facilitated the labor of man. Absorbed in 



SETTLEMENT ON THE WILLAMETTE. 175 

these contemplations, I took out my watch to see if it was 
not the hour for the ringing of the bells. It was two o'clock? 
and all was still, except the roar of the falling water. I 
called to recollection, that in the year 1809 I stood by the 
falls of the Genesee river, and all was silence except the roar 
of the cataract. But it is not so now ; for Rochester stands 
where I then stood. 

Wednesday, 25th. As soon as the day dawned, we went 
on board the canoe and pursued our way up the river, which 
for thirty miles runs from a westerly direction, and at half 
past One, we arrived at McKey's settlement. This and Jar- 
vis' settlement, twelve miles above, contain about twenty 
families. The settlers are mostly Canadian Frenchmen 
with Indian wives. There are a very few Americans. 
The Frenchmen were laborers belonging to the Hudson Bay 
Company, but have left that service, and having families, 
they have commenced farming in this fertile section of coun- 
try, which is the best of the Oregon Territory that I have as 
yet seen. It is well diversified with woods and prairies, the 
soil is rich and sufficiently dry for cultivation, and at the 
same time well watered with small streams and springs. 
These hunters, recently turned to farmers, cultivate the 
most common useful productions — wheat of the first quality 
to as great an extent as their wants require. A small grist 
mill is just finished, which adds to their comforts. They 
have a common school in each settlement, instructed by 
American young men who are competent to the business. 

An opinion extensively prevails, that an American colo- 
ny is located somewhere in this Territory, but these two 
settlements are the only farming establishments which exist 
here, if we except those connected with the trading posts of 
the Hudson Bay Company. The attempt which was made 



176 MISLETOE METHODIST MISSION. 

some few years since by a company of men from the United 
States, was an entire failure, and only a few individuals of 
whom I obtained any knowledge, have found their way back 
to the States. 

The forest trees are mostly oak and fir, the latter grow- 
ing remarkably tall. The misletoe, attached to the body 
and large branches of the oak, is very common. Beautiful 
dark green bunches of this plant, seen upon the leafless 
trees of winter, excite admiration that its verdure should 
continue, when the trees, from which it derives its life and 
support, are not able to sustain their own foliage. 

I rode, on Thursday the 26th, twelve miles to Jarvis' 
settlement, and was delighted with the country. For rich- 
ness of soil and other local advantages, I should not know 
where to find a spot in the valley of the Mississippi superior 
to this. I saw on the way a large number of horses, lately 
brought from California, fattening upon the fresh, luxuriant 
grass of the prairies. 

Near this upper settlement, a short distance up the river, 
the Methodist church of the United States have established 
a mission among the Calapooah Indians, of whom there are 
but few remaining. Rev. Messrs. Jason Lee and Daniel 
Lee are the ordained missionaries, and Mr. Shepard teacher. 

Their principal mode of instruction, for the present, is by 
means of schools. They have at this time fourteen Indian 
children in their school, supported in their family, and the 
prospect of obtaining others as fast as. they can accommo- 
date them. Their facilities for providing for their school 
are good, having an opportunity to cultivate as much excel- 
lent land as they wish, and to raise the necessaries of life 
in great abundance, with little more labor than what the 
scholars can perform, for their support. The missionaries 



EPIDEMIC. 177 

have an additional opportunity of usefulness, which is- to 
establish a Christian influence among the people of these 
infant settlements. Mr. J. Lee preaches to- them on the 
Sabbath, and they have a very interesting Sabbath school 
among the half-breed children. These children generally 
have fair complexions, active minds, and make a fine ap- 
pearance. The prospect is, that this mission may lay a 
foundation for extensive usefulness. There is as yet one 
important desideratum — these missionaries have no wives. 
Christian white women are very much needed to exert an 
influence over Indian females. The female character must 
be elevated, and until this is done but little is accomplished ; 
and females can. have access to, and influence over females 
in many departments of instruction, to much better advan- 
tage than men. And the model, which is furnished by an 
intelligent and pious family circle, is that kind of practical 
instruction, whether at home or abroad, which never fails 
to recommend the gospel.. 

At the time of my continuance in this place, a singular 
epidemic prevailed among the Indians, of which several 
persons died. The subjects of the complaint were attacked' 
with a severe pain in the ear almost instantaneously, which 
soon spread through the whole head, with great heat in the 
part affected:; at the same time the pulse became very fee- 
ble and not very frequent — soon the extremities became cold, 
and a general torpor spread through the whole system^ ex- 
cept the head — -soon they were senseless, and in a short pe- 
riod died. In some cases the attack was less severe, and 
the patient lingered, and after some days convalesced, or 
continued to sink until death closed his earthly existence. 

Friday, Nov. 27th. I rode with Mr. J. Lee several 

miles south to see more of the country. The same rich,. 
16* 



178 HOSPITALITY OF WANAXKA. 

black soil continued, furnishing nutritive grass in abun- 
dance ; and also the same diversity of wood and prairie. 
This valley is generally about fifty miles wide east and 
west, and far more extended north and south. 

Towards evening, we attended the funeral of an Indian 
boy, who belonged to the school, and who died last night 
with the epidemic. Most of the children of the school and 
the Sabbath school attended, and conducted with propriety. 

On Saturday I returned to McKey's settlement, to fulfil 
an appointment to preach to the inhabitants on the Sabbath. 
I stopped with Mr. Edwards, who is temporarily attached 
to the mission, but now teaching school in this settlement. 

Almost the whole of the inhabitants of this settlement 
assembled on the Sabbath, and made a very decent con- 
gregation, but not more than half of them could understand 
English. 

After service I was called to visit a Mr. Cathre, who 
was taken severely with the epidemic. I bled him, which 
gave him immediate relief, and applied a blister, and, as I 
afterward learned, he recovered. 

Early on Monday morning, the 30th, McKey furnished 
me with two young Indians to take me in a canoe to the 
falls, where we arrived safely at three o'clock in the after- 
noon. Here I engaged two Indians belonging to a small 
village of the Clough-e-wall-hah tribe, who have a perma- 
nent residence a little below the falls, to carry me in a ca- 
noe to Fort Vancouver. Wanaxka, the chief, came up to 
the falls, where I was about to encamp alone for the night, 
and invited me to share the hospitality of his house. I hes- 
itated, not that I would undervalue his kindness, but feared 
such annoyances as might prevent my rest. On the other 
hand there was every appearance of a cold, heavy storm, 



CONSTRUCTION OF HIS HOUSE. 179 

and very little wood near, which I could procure for a fire 
with my hatchet only, and I should be alone, exposed to 
ravenous wild beasts — the latter consideration, however, I 
scarcely regarded. But believing it would gratify the 
chief, should I accept his invitation, I went with him to his 
dwelling, which was a long permanent building on the west 
side of the river, upon an elevation of one hundred feet, 
and near which were several other buildings of nearly the 
same dimensions. Besides the family of the chief, there 
were two other families in the same building, in sections of 
about twenty feet, separated from each other by mats hung 
up for partitions. Their houses are built of logs split into 
thick plank. These Indians do not sink any part of their 
buildings below the surface of the earth, as some of the In- 
dians do about and below the Cascades. The walls of the 
chief's house were about seven feet high, with the roof 
more steeply elevated than what is common in the United 
States, made of the same materials with the walls, except 
that the planks were of less thickness. They have only 
one door to the house, and this is in the centre of the front 
side. They have no chimneys to carry off the smoke, but 
a hole is left open above the fire place, which is in the cen- 
tre of each family's apartment. This answers very well 
in calm weather, but when there is much wind, the whole 
building becomes a smoke house. The fire place of the 
chief's apartment was sunk a foot below the surface of the 
earth, eight feet square, secured by a frame around, and 
mats were spread upon the floor for the family to sit upon. 
Their dormitories are on the sides of the apartment, raised 
four feet above the floor, with moveable ladders for ascent ; 
and under them they stow away their dried fish, roots, 
berries, and other effects. There was not an excess of 



180 A MORNING VOYAGE. 

neatness within, and still less without. The Indians in 
the lower country who follow fishing and fowling for a live- 
lihood are far from being as neat as those in the upper coun- 
try, who depend more upon the chase. The latter live in 
moveable lodges and frequently change their habitations. 
But these Indians were also kind. They gave me most of 
one side of the fire-place, spread down clean new mats, re- 
plenished their fire, and were ready to perform any service 
I should wish. They filled my tea-kettle, after which I 
spread out the stores so bountifully provided by Doct. Mc- 
Laughlin, and performed my own cooking. During the 
evening, the chief manifested a disposition to be sociable, 
but we had very little language common to us both, besides 
the language of signs. The next thing, when the hour of 
rest arrived, was to fortify myself against a numerous and 
insidious enemy. I first spread down the cloth of my tent, 
then my blankets, and wrapped myself up as" securely as I 
could, and should have slept comfortably, had I not too fully 
realized my apprehensions. 

December 1st. As soon as daylight appeared, I left 
the hospitable habitation of Wanaxka, and with my two 
Indians proceeded down the Willamette about sixteen miles 
before we landed for breakfast. I find a great difference 
in going with or against the current of these rivers. Since 
going up this river, the number of swans and geese had 
greatly multiplied upon the waters and along the shores. 
Their noise, and especially that of the swans, echoed 
through the woods and prairies. The swan is a beautiful 
and majestic bird ; its large body, long neck, clear white 
color, and graceful movements place it among the very first 
of the winged tribe. The common seal are numerous in 
this river. It is very difficult to shoot them, even with the 



LOVE OF ARDENT SPIRITS. 181 

best rifles, on account of their diving with extreme sudden- 
ness at the flash. I had a fair opportunity to shoot one to- 
day, but with one splash he was out of sight and did not 
again appear. When I came to the north-western branch 
of the Multnomah, I proceeded down four miles to Fort 
William, on the Wappatoo Island, an establishment which 
belongs to Captain Wyeth and Company. The location is 
pleasant, and the land around is of the first quality. 

Some months ago, a tragical occurrence took place here 
between two men from the United States. The subject of 
their dispute was an Indian woman. Thornburgh was de- 
termined to take her from Hubbard, even at the risk of his 
own life. He entered Hubbard's cabin in the night, armed 
with a loaded rifle, but H. saw him and shot him through 
the breast, and violently thrust him through the door. Poor 
T. fell and expired. In the absence of any judicial tribu- 
nal, a self-created jury of inquest, on examination into the 
circumstances of the case, brought in a verdict of "justifia- 
ble homicide." 

In Thornburgh, was an instance of a most insatiable ap- 
petite for ardent spirits. Mr. Townsend, the ornithologist, 
whom I have before mentioned, told me he had encamped 
out for several days, some miles from Fort William, at- 
tending to the business of his profession ; and that in addi- 
tion to collecting birds, he had collected rare specimens 
of reptiles, which he preserved in a keg of spirits. Sev- 
eral days after he was in this encampment, he went to his 
keg to deposite another reptile, and found the spirits gone. 
Mr. Townsend, knowing that Thornburgh had been several 
times loitering about, charged him with having drank off 
the spirits. He confessed it, and pleaded his thirst as an 
apology. 



182 RETURN TO FORT VANCOUVER. 

On Wednesday, the 2d, I returned to Fort Vancouver, 
well pleased with my excursion. The weather was gen- 
erally pleasant, free from winds and heavy storms. The 
whole country is adapted by nature to yield to the hand of 
cultivation, and ere long, I may say, without claiming to 
be prophetic, will be filled, through the whole extent of the 
valley of the Willamette, with farms spread out in rich 
luxuriance, and inhabitants, whose character will depend 
upon the religious advantages or disadvantages which be- 
nevolent and philanthropic individuals give or withhold. I 
found the people of the fort in their usual active business 
pursuits, and received a renewed and cordial welcome. 



SERVICES ON THE SABBATH. 183 



CHAPTER XII. 

Services on the Sabbath — obstacles to the gospel — discouraging case- 
manner of spending time — description of Vancouver — fur and farm- 
ing establishment — garden productions — lumber — commerce — pel- 
tries — system of the Hudson Bay Company — waste of life — hard, 
ships of a hunter's life — their perseverance — Christian principle — 
worldly principle. 

Sabbath, Dec. the 6th. I have attended three services 
— morning, afternoon, and evening, and expect to continue 
them during my residence in this place. Through the 
week there will be but few opportunities to do much for the 
spiritual benefit of the common laborers ; for in this high 
northern latitude, the days in the winter are so short that 
the men are called out to their work before daylight, and 
continue their labor until near dark; and as their families 
do not understand English, I have no direct means of ben- 
efiting them. 

There is another circumstance which operates against 
the prospects of benefiting many of the population here — 
the common practice of living in families without being 
married. They do not call the women with whom they live, 
their wives, but their women. They know they are living 
in the constant violation of divine prohibition, and acknow- 
ledge it, by asking how they can, with any consistency, at- 
tend to their salvation, while they are living in sin. I urged 
the duty of entering into the marriage relation. They have 
two reasons for not doing so. One is, that if they may 
wish to return to their former homes and friends, they can- 



184 DIFFICULTIES. 

not take their families with them. The other is, that these 
Indian women do not understand the obligations of the mar- 
riage covenant, and if they, as husbands, should wish to 
fulfil their duties, yet their wives might, through caprice, 
leave them, and they should be bound by obligations, which 
their wives would disregard. 

There is no doubt, but that this subject is attended with 
real difficulties, but are they insurmountable ? Has God 
given a law, which if obeyed would not secure our greatest 
and best good ? Can a rational mind balance for a moment 
the pleasures of a sinful life against interests which stand 
connected inseparably with permanent happiness, and with 
a duration, compared to which, the whole of this mortal life 
is but a speck, a nothing. My heart is pained when I wit- 
ness the things which are seen and temporal preferred to 
those that are unseen and pure, and which are commensu- 
rate with existence itself. I cannot believe, that if these 
men should marry the women with whom they live, and do 
all they could to instruct them, and treat them with tender- 
ness and respect, that there would be many cases of their 
leaving their husbands. And whatever might be the results, 
it is always better to suffer wrong, than do wrong. But their 
social comforts are so strongly bound with the cords of sin, 
that they feel, as they express their own case, that it is use- 
less to make any efforts to obtain spiritual freedom, until 
they shall be placed in different circumstances. 

As much of my time, through the week, was occupied 
in study, and in digesting facts connected with the natural 
history of the country west of the Rocky Mountains, and 
the character and condition of the Indians, which came 
under my observation at different times and places ; and 
also that which I obtained from persons whose testimony 



THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 185 

could be relied upon, and which came under their personal 
observation, I shall give them without particular dates. 

I have already mentioned my agreeable disappointment, 
in finding so many of the comforts of life, at different trad- 
ing posts of the Hudson Bay Company ; I have also given 
a brief description of the local situation of Fort Vancouver. 
This was taken from such observations as I could make in 
a hasty view, as I was prosecuting my journey to the shores 
of the Pacific ocean. This establishment was commenced 
in the year 1824. ft being necessary that the gentlemen, 
who are engaged in transacting the business of the Compa- 
ny west of the mountains, and their laborers, should be 
better and less precariously supplied with the necessaries of 
life, than what game furnishes ; and the expense of trans- 
porting suitable supplies from England being too great, it 
was thought important to connect the business of farming 
with that of fur, to an extent equal to their necessary de- 
mands, and as this fort is the central place of business to 
which shipping come, and from which they depart for dif- 
ferent parts of the north-west coast, and to which, and from 
which, brigades of hunting parties come and go ; the prin- 
cipal farming business was established here, and has been 
progressing until provisions are furnished in great abund- 
ance. There are large fertile prairies, which they occupy 
for tillage and pasture, and forests for fencing materials and 
other purposes. In the year 1835, at this post, there were 
four hundred and fifty neat cattle, one hundred horses, two 
hundred sheep, forty goats, and three hundred hogs. They 
had raised the same year five thousand bushels of wheat, of 
the best quality I ever saw ; one thousand three hundred 
bushels of potatoes ; one thousand of barley, one thousand 

of oats, two thousand of peas, and a large variety of garden 

17 



186 HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 

vegetables. This estimate does not include the horses, 
horned cattle, &c. and produce raised at other stations. 
But little, however, is done at any of the others, excepting 
Colvile, the uppermost post on the northern branch of the 
Columbia. The garden of this station, enclosing about five 
acres, is laid out with regularity and good taste. While a 
large part is appropriated to the common esculent vegeta- 
bles, ornamental plants and flowers are not neglected. Fruit 
of various kinds, such as apples, peaches, grapes, and straw- 
berries, for the time they have been introduced, flourish and 
prove that the climate and soil are well adapted to the pur- 
poses of horticulture. Various tropical fruits, such as figs, 
oranges, and lemons, have also been introduced, and grow 
with about the same care that they would require in the 
latitude of Philadelphia. 

In connection with this business and farming establish- 
ment, the Company have a flour-mill worked by ox-power, 
which is kept in constant operation and produces flour of 
excellent quality. Six miles up the Columbia, at the con- 
fluence of a stream coming from the north-east, they have 
a saw-mill with several saws, which is kept in operation 
most of the year. This mill though large, does not furnish 
more lumber than a common mill would, with one saw, in 
the United States. There being no pine below the Cas- 
cades, and but very little within five hundred miles of the 
mouth of the Columbia river, the only timber sawed in this 
mill is fir and oak. Besides what lumber is used in the 
common business about this station, one, and sometimes two 
ship loads are sent annually to Oahu, Sandwich Islands, and 
it is there called pine of the north-west coast, and sells for 
about fifty dollars the thousand feet. Spars and timber for 
shipping are also sent to that market. Boards of fir are not 



HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 187 

so durable when exposed to the weather, as those of pine, 
nor so easily worked. One half of the grain of each an- 
nual growth is very hard, and the other half soft and spungy, 
which easily absorbs moisture and causes speedy decay. 
There is a bakery here, in which two or three men are in 
constant employment, which furnishes bread for daily use 
in the fort, and a large supply of sea biscuit for the ship- 
ping and trading stations along the north-west coast. There 
are also shops for blacksmiths, joiners, carpenters, and a 
tinner. 

Here is a well regulated medical department, and a hos- 
pital for the accommodation of the sick laborers, in which 
Indians who are laboring under any difficult and dangerous 
diseases are received, and in most cases have gratuitous 
attendance. 

Among the large buildings, there are four for the trading 
department. One for the Indian trade, in which are depos- 
ited their peltries ; one for provisions ; one for goods open- 
ed for the current year's business ; and another for storing 
goods in a )< ear's advance. Not less than a ship load of 
goods is brought from England annually, and always at 
least one in advance of their present use, so that if any dis- 
aster should befall their ship on her passage, the business of 
the Company would not have to be suspended. By this 
mode of management, there is rarely less than two ship 
loads of goods on hand. The annual ship arrives in the 
spring, takes a trip to Oahu during the summer, freighted 
with lumber to that island, and bringing back to Vancouver 
salt and other commodities, but generally not enough for 
ballast ; and in the last of September, or in the first of Oc- 
tober, she sails for England with the peltries obtained du- 
ring the preceding year. 



188 HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 

The fur business about and west of the Rocky Mountains, 
is becoming far less lucrative than in years past ; for so 
extensively and constantly have every nook and corner 
been searched out, that beaver and other valuable fur an- 
imals are becoming scarce. It is rational to conclude, that 
it will not be many years before this business will not be 
worth pursuing in the prairie country, south of the 50° of 
north latitude ; north of this, in the colder and more densely 
wooded regions, the business will not probably vary in any 
important degree. 

But very few Americans who have engaged in the fur 
business beyond the Rocky Mountains, have ever succeeded 
in making it profitable. Several companies have sustained 
great loss, or entire failure, owing generally to their igno- 
rance of the country, and the best mode of procedure- 
The conductors of these enterprises, mainly, were inexpe- 
rienced in Indian trade, and, like Americans generally, 
they perhaps expected the golden fruits of their labor and 
industry, without the time and patience requisite to ensure 
it. Hence the results have frequently been disappointment. 
The Hudson Bay Company have reduced their business to 
such a system, that no one can have the charge of any 
important transactions, without having passed through the 
inferior grades, which constitute several years' apprentice- 
ship. Their lowest order are what they call servants, 
(common laborers.) All above these are called gentlemen, 
but of different orders. The lowest class are clerks ; then 
chief-clerks ; next traders, and chief-traders ; factors, and 
chief- factors ; and the highest, governors. Of the last 
named officers there are only two ; one resides in London, 
who is at the head of the whole business of the Company, 
and the other resides in Montreal, Lower Canada. There 



THE LIFE OF THE HUNTER. 189 

are only two chief- factors west of the Mountains, John Mc- 
Laughlin, Esq. and Duncan Finlayson, Esq. and with them 
are associated in business several chief-traders and traders, 
and chief-clerks and clerks. The salaries of the gentle- 
men are proportioned to the stations they occupy. This 
being their system of business, no important enterprise is 
ever intrusted to any inexperienced person. 

It is worthy of remark, that comparatively few of all 
those who engage in the fur business about, and west of the 
Rocky Mountains, ever return to their native land, and to 
their homes and friends. Mr. P. of Fort Walla Walla, 
told me, that to keep up their number of trappers and hunt- 
ers near, but west of the mountains, they were under the 
necessity of sending out recruits annually, about one third 
of the whole number. Captain W. has said, that of more 
than two hundred who had been in his employment in less 
than three years, only between thirty and forty were known 
to be alive. From this data it may be seen that the life 
of hunters in these far western regions averages about 
three years. And with these known facts, still hundreds 
and hundreds are willing to engage in the hunter's life, and 
expose themselves to hardships, famine, dangers, and death,. 
The estimate has been made from sources of correct infor- 
mation, that there are nine thousand white men in the north 
and in the great west, engaged in the various departments 
of trading, trapping and hunting, including Americans, 
Britons, Frenchmen, and Russians. It is more than one 
hundred and fifty years since white men penetrated far into 
the forests, in their canoes freighted with goods, coasting 
the shores of the remote lakes, and following up the stilf 
more remote rivers, to traffic with the Indians for their furs, 

not regarding hunger, toils, and dangers. These enterpri- 

17* 



190 CHRISTIAN PRINCIPLE. 

ses have been extended and pursued with avidity, until 
every Indian nation and tribe have been visited by the trader. 
What is the power of that principle which draws these 
thousands from their country, and their homes, and all the 
ties of kindred ? Is the love of gain and hope of wealth 
the motive by which courage and daring are roused, and 
dangers defied ? And shall Christianity be a less powerful 
principle ? Has it only furnished twenty or thirty mission- 
aries, whose sole motive is to carry the gospel to the many 
ten thousand Indians in the widely extended country, over 
which are ranging nine thousand traders, trappers, and 
hunters ? Are these the only evidences the church of God 
can give of sincerity in her professions of attachment to 
Christ, and to the interests of the immortal soul ? If so, 
then Christians surely must suffer in comparison with 
worldly men, and our heaven-descended religion, if judged 
of by its restricted fruits, must be deemed unworthy of its 
name and origin. But this want of Christian enterprise, 
characterized by the late period in which it is begun, and 
carried forward with such slow and faltering steps, is not 
only to be lamented as a blot upon the Christian name, but 
incomparably more is it to be lamented, that in consequence, 
generation after generation of the heathen, to say nothing 
of the thousands who are trafficking among them, are left in 
their ignorance of the Savior to perish eternally. How 
long shall it be, that when an adventurous man forms a 
plan for traffic in far distant wilds, in a short time a com- 
pany is formed with a capital of fifty thousand dollars, and 
a hundred men are found to face hardships and dangers, 
and they are away ? But when a Christian heart is stir- 
red up to go and carry the gospel to some far distant Indian 
nation, he may plead and plead for four men and two 



CHRISTIAN PRINCIPLE. 191 

thousand dollars, and perhaps in vain. But it is said, a 
great deal is now doing for the heathen world. How much ? 
As much as to-give Jive ministers to the United States. All 
that is doing for the conversion of the heathen is not more 
than it would cost to build, and man, and defray the expen- 
ses of one ship of war. 



192 INDIAN POPULATION. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Indian population — diseases — mortality — attributed to cultivation of 
the soil — destitute of medical science — holidays — customs at home — 
customs of the Indians — resemblance to Jewish customs in punish, 
ment — marriage contracts — condition of the females — slavery — 
divisions into tribes — one point of dissimilarity — language. 

I have found the Indian population in the lower coun- 
try, that is, below the falls of the Columbia, far less than I 
had expected, or what it was when Lewis and Clarke made 
their tour. Since the year 1829, probably seven-eighths, 
if not as Dr. McLaughlin believes, nine-tenths, have been 
swept away by disease, principally by fever and ague. The 
malignancy of this disease may have been increased by 
predisposing causes, such as intemperance, and the influ- 
ence of intercourse with sailors. But a more direct cause 
of the great mortality, was their mode of treatment. In 
the burning stage of the fever they plunged themselves into 
the river, and continued in the water until the heat was 
allayed, and rarely survived the cold stage which followed. 
So many and so sudden were the deaths which occurred, 
that the shores were strewed with the unburied dead. 
Whole and large villages were depopulated ; and some en- 
tire tribes have disappeared, but where there were any re- 
maining persons, they united with other tribes. This great 
mortality extended not only from the vicinity of the Cas- 
cades to the shores of the Pacific, but far north and south ; 
it is said as far south as California. The fever and ague 



HOLIDAYS. 193 

was never known in this country before the year 1829, and 
Dr. McLaughlin mentioned it as a singular circumstance, 
that this was the year in which fields were ploughed for 
the first time. He thought there must have been some 
connexion between breaking up the soil and the fever. I 
informed him that the same fever prevailed in the United 
States, about the same time, and in places which had not 
before been subject to the complaint.. The mortality, after 
one or two seasons, abated, partly from the want of subjects, 
and partly from medical assistance obtained from the hos- 
pital at Fort Vancouver. The mortality of Indians and 
their sufferings under diseases are far greater than they 
would be, if they were furnished with a knowledge of med- 
icine. Indian doctors are only Indian conjurers. But I 
shall have occasion to say more upon this subject when I 
describe Indian customs. 

December 25th. The holidays are not forgotten in these 
far distant regions. From Christmas until after the New 
Year, all labor is suspended, and a general time of in- 
dulgence and festivity commences. Only this once in the 
whole year are ardent spirits given to the laborers, when 
they have a free allowance, furnishing them the opportu- 
nity to exhibit fully what they would do, if spirits were 
easily and always accessible. On Christmas morning they 
dress themselves in their best attire — accelerated movements 
are seen in every direction, and preparation is made for din- 
ners, which are sure to be furnished in their first style, and 
greatest profusion ; and the day passes in mirth and hilar- 
ity. But it does not end with the day ; for the passions and 
appetites pampered through the day, prepare the way for 
the night to be spent in dancing ; and loud and boisterous 
laughter, shouts, and revelry, consume the hours designed 



194 CUSTOMS AT HOME. 

for rest. They continue these high-strung convivialities 
until they pass the portals of the new year, when labor and 
toil resume their place. 

Such are often the customs of those who profess to be 
wiser and better. The expiring year vanishes, amidst the 
noise and revels of many, who pretend by such methods 
to honor the birth of our Savior, and the introduction of 
that only religion, which requires perfect purity and perfect 
order. And too many give as they profess, but a decent 
honor and respect to those festival days, when from house 
to house of their best or indifferent friends, the wine is cir- 
culated until they become genteelly inebriated. And is it 
so, that these days are baptized with the name of holy days ? 
The piety of primitive Christians undoubtedly led them 
to observe the supposed anniversary of our Savior's birth, 
but whenever such uncommanded observances are greatly 
abused, the same piety will exert itself to bring about a ref- 
ormation ; and if this cannot be done, then to abolish the 
custom altogether. Hezekiah, king of Judah, in the case 
of the brazen serpent, which was preserved as a memorial 
of the salvation wrought instrumentally by it, for those who 
were bitten by the fiery serpents, destroyed it when the peo- 
ple idolized and burned incense to it. 

The question whether there is any evidence that the In- 
dians are descended from the ten lost tribes of Israel, though 
frequently and largely discussed, has not been satisfactorily 
answered. From all the personal observations I could 
make, and efforts at examination, I could not obtain any 
thing conclusive upon the subject, but am induced to be- 
lieve that their origin will remain as problematical in fu- 
ture, as it has been in time past. But we know enough of 
their origin for all practical purposes, since we know that 



RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS. 195 

they are a part of the fallen family of man, and therefore 
need to know the way of salvation through Jesus Christ. 
There are some things in their belief and customs which 
favor the idea that they are of Israelitish descent. Their 
entire freedom from idolatry is a peculiar characteristic, by 
which they are distinguished from all other heathen. Where 
can another heathen nation be found, who have no idols or 
idol worship ? It will be remembered that this propensity 
of the Jews to idolatry was entirely subdued from the time of 
their captivity in Babylon. Among the Indians beyond the 
mountains, I found no idols, nor any appearance of idola- 
try. They believe in only one God, and all their worship, 
so far as they have any, is offered to Him. They believe 
in the immortality of the soul, and future rewards and pun- 
ishments. It was predicted by the prophet Hosea of the 
children of Israel, that " they should abide many days with- 
out a king, and without a prince, and without a sacrifice." 
They have no sacrifices, no kings, and no prince. Their 
knowledge of these important truths is very inadequate and 
imperfect, as might be supposed, since they are destitute of 
the light of divine revelation. Their government is invest- 
ed entirely in their chiefs, no one of whom has any spe- 
cial control over the others, or over the people, but they al- 
ways act in united councils. Their minds are perfectly 
open to receive any truth in regard to the character and 
worship of God. They have many traditions and super- 
stitions ; and some persons can hardly see the distinction be- 
tween a reverence for these, and idol worship — for instance, 
though they may believe, that the Great Wolf and the Gray 
Bear scrambled together the mountains in a fight, yet they 
do not worship either. 

Their custom of punishing the crime of murder, if it does 



106 RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS. 

not differ from that of all other heathen nations, yet coin- 
cides with what was the custom of the Jews. The nearest 
relatives of the murdered person are the " avengers of 
blood," the executioners, or " pursuers of blood." They 
kill the murderer, if they can find him ; and in their own 
tribe or nation, they do not extend the punishment to any 
other person, so that " the fathers are not put to death for 
the children, neither are the children put to death for the 
fathers; every man is put to death for his own sin." As 
the Jews did not regard other nations with the same benev- 
olence as their own, so the Indians make a distinction be- 
tween their own tribe or nation, and others. If one is kill- 
ed by a person belonging to another nation, if they cannot 
obtain and put the murderer to death, they will take the life 
of some of the relatives of the murderer ; or, if they fail 
of this, some one of the nation must atone for the crime. 
And if this cannot be done immediately, the debt of blood 
will still be demanded, though years may pass away before 
it is cancelled. 

There is also some resemblance in their marriage con- 
tracts. The negotiation is commenced, if not completed, 
with the parents of the intended bride, as in the case of 
Isaac's marrying Rebekah. Abraham directed his servant 
to go to his kindred and take a wife for his son Isaac. He 
went, and when God had shown him that Rebekah was the 
appointed person, he first consulted her father and brother, 
and when their approbation was obtained, Rebekah's ap- 
proval closed the contract, and presents were made to the 
several members of the family. The customs of the In- 
dians are substantially the same. The bridegroom negoti- 
ates with the parents, and the approbation of the daughter 
being obtained, the stipulated commodities are paid and the 






RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS. 197 

man takes his wife. But as much or more is given in dow- 
ry to the daughter. The presents and dowry are propor- 
tioned to th» rank and wealth of the contracting parties. 
Wanaxka, the first chief of the Clough-e-wall-lah Indians, 
has refused more than one hundred dollars for a beautiful 
daughter, whom I saw when I shared the hospitality of his 
house. A chief at the La Dalles refused two horses and six 
blankets, together with several other articles of smaller val- 
ue. It is not to be understood, that marriage is a mere 
mercenary transaction ; for fancy and choice have their in- 
fluence with them, as well as among more refined people. 

Another resemblance between the Indians and the Jews 
may be traced in the estimation in which the females are 
held. No doubt the degradation of Indian women is to be 
attributed in a large degree to heathenism, and that unciv- 
ilized and savage state in which we find them ; yet in their 
respective occupations we find some features which are 
not dissimilar. Among those nations and tribes who do 
not possess slaves, the women cut and gather wood for fire, 
as well as prepare food for their families, they pack and 
unpack the horses, set up and take down lodges, gather 
roots and berries for food, dress the skins for clothing, and 
make them into garments. So the Jewish women drew 
water for flocks and camels, and watched over them ; they 
gleaned the fields in harvest ; they also performed the 
work of grinding in the mill. Our Savior refers to this, 
when he foretold the dstruction of Jerusalem. " Two wo- 
men shall be grinding at the mill, one shall be taken and 
the other left." 

Slavery was suffered among the Jews, and undoubtedly 

for the same reasons that polygamy was, and the putting 

away their wives by writing a bill of divorcement. While 

18 



198 RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS. 

the Great law-giver did not at once abolish the practice, he 
brought it under modified restrictions. The stealing and 
selling a man was punishable with death. If a man bought 
a Hebrew servant, the time of his service was not to exceed 
six years. Intermarriages took place between these ser- 
vants and the families of their masters ; and the betrothed 
maid was to be treated like a daughter. The same restric- 
tions were not, however, enjoined in relation to those bond- 
men who were bought of the heathen, until the days of the 
prophets, when they were commanded to break every yoke 
and let the oppressed go free. So also slavery exists in a 
modified form among the Indians west of the mountains, 
not generally, but only among the nations in the lower 
country. They are bought ; taken prisoners in war ; taken 
in payment of debts, if they are orphans of the debtor ; 
and sell themselves in pledges. They are put to the same 
service which women perform among those Indians who 
have no slaves. They are generally treated with kind- 
ness ; live in the same dwelling with their masters, and 
often intermarry with those who are free. They are ex- 
empt from one cruel practice which their masters inflict 
upon their own children, the flattening of their heads. The 
reason, which those who possess slaves assign for flatten- 
ing their own heads, is, that they may be distinguished 
from their slaves who have round heads. 

Polygamy is practiced among the Indians, and with near- 
ly the same regulations with which it was practiced among 
the Jews. Though they do not write bills of divorcement 
and put away their wives, yet they send them away on 
slight occasions. But this brings no disgrace on the wo- 
man's character, and generally she is soon married to an- 
other, and often as advantageously. 



RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS. 199 

Another resemblance between the Jews and the Indians, 
is the division of their nations into, tribes. The tribes of 
the children of Israel were the descendants of distinguished 
families, and their government was patriarchal. The tribes 
among the Indians are constituted much in the same way. 
Some important personage gains an influence, numbers be- 
come attached to him ; and though they do not separate 
from their nation, nor at once become a distinct tribe, yet 
they are denominated a band, and these bands in many 
cases grow up into tribes. 

How much allusion there may be to the ancient Jewish 
custom of wearing " fringes to the borders of their gar- 
ments," I am not able to determine by eliciting any facts 
from Indian tradition, but the practice is universal among 
the tribes west of the mountains, as far as my observation 
extended — and so fond are they of this ornament to their 
dress, that every seam in their garments is furnished with it. 

There is one consideration which should not be passed 
over, and which may appear to be against the evidences 
that the Indians are of Israelitish origin. 

Every different nation has an entirely distinct language. 
These languages are more distinct than the different lan- 
guages of Europe ; for in all the different languages of Eu- 
rope there are words derived from Latin, common to each, 
which prove a common relation. Now, if the Indians are 
descended from the Jews, and of course once had a common 
language, viz. the Hebrew, notwithstanding their departure 
by different dialects from their original, might it not be ex- 
pected that there would still remain words and idioms indi- 
cative of their common origin. But it is not so, as may be 
seen in a vocabulary of a few languages which I shall sub- 
join. They have some words in common with Latin, 



200 RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS. 

Greek, and Hebrew, but these are used in an entirely differ- 
ent sense from that in which they are used in those langua- 
ges. As far as it respects language, the proof of a Jewish, 
or even of a common origin, is not only doubtful but highly 
improbable. 



ANIMALS. 201 



CHAPTER XIV. 

The various animals beyond the Mountains. 

It is generally supposed that wild animals, in all Indian 
countries, and especially in the far regions beyond the moun- 
tains, are very numerous ; but, excepting buffalo within 
their range, which is becoming more and more circum- 
scribed, game is scarce. In giving an account of animals 
beyond the mountains, I shall not go into a minute descrip- 
tion of those which are familiar to all classes of persons. 

Among the animals of the genus cervus, the elk is the 
largest and most majestic. It exists in considerable num- 
bers east of the Rocky Mountains, but is less numerous on 
the west side. It combines beauty with magnitude and 
strength, and its large towering horns give it an imposing 
appearance. Its senses are so keen, in apprehension, that 
it is difficult to be approached ; and its speed in flight is so 
great that it mocks the chase. Its flesh resembles beef, 
though less highly flavored, and is much sought for by the 
Indians and hunters. Its skin is esteemed, and much used 
in articles of clothing and for moccasons; 

I did not see the moose ; they are said to be found farther 
north, in the colder and woody regions. 

There are three species of deer ; the red,- the black-tailed, 
and the common American deer. Like those found in other 
countries, they are of a mild, innocent, timid aspect ; ele- 
gant in form, with . slender, nervous limbs. When any 

object or noise alarms them, they throw up their heads, 

18* 



202 ANIMALS. - 

erect and move their ears in every direction to catch the 
sounds ; snuff up the wind, and bound off with great celer- 
ity. The deer west of the mountains are more lean, and 
the flesh is less inviting than those found in the United 
States. This may arise from the nature of the food to 
which they are confined, having less opportunity for brows- 
ing, especially upon such shrubbery as is congenial to their 
natures, there being but very few of the sacchariferous kinds 
found in their country. 

The red deer are generally found about the Rocky Moun- 
tains and upon the head waters of the Columbia. 

The black-tailed deer, while they are of a dusky sallow 
color, like the common American deer, are somewhat dark- 
er, and their tails are larger and nearly black, which gives 
them their name. Their eyes are large and prominent, 
their ears are also large and long, and judging from those 1 
saw, they are smaller than the common deer. When they 
move faster than a walk, they bound. 

The antelope, which I have already described, page 61st, 
are numerous in the upper and prairie country. They are 
a species of the gazelle, but differ at least in variety, from 
any described by zoologists as inhabiting the eastern conti- 
nent. These are said to be brown upon the head, back, and 
outside of their limbs- — the breast, belly, and inside of the 
limbs, are white— and their horns are sixteen inches long. 
But the antelopes of this country are of different colors, of- 
ten red, or red and white in irregular patches. Their horns 
are similar to those of the goat in size and length, but are 
recurved, and are not deciduous. Like all the varieties of 
their genus, they are beautifully formed, and are charac- 
terized by a prominent, mild and beautiful eye ; exceeding 
swiftness in running, and agility in all their motions. Their 



ANIMALS. 203 

feet are cloven, and their limbs are slender and delicate. 
They are gregarious and are often seen feeding in flocks of 
twenty or more, or sporting upon the hills and in the val- 
leys. They seem to take a middle place between the goat 
and the deer, though entirely distinct from either. 

In enumerating the animals beyond the Rocky Moun- 
tains, I am not able, as might be expected, to describe the 
Rocky Mountain, or big-horn sheep. I am unwilling to 
state, as facts, the descriptions of others, especially as there 
are so many wrong statements made in natural history. I 
did not see any of these animals, which probably I should 
have done, if they were as numerous as travelers have said 
they are. I saw their horns, which are enormously large, 
if, as it is said, their bodies are not much larger than a com- 
mon deer. A horn which I measured, was five inches in 
diameter at its juncture with the head, and eighteen long. 
Its flesh, of which I had an opportunity to eat, was far pref- 
erable to the best mutton. They inhabit the mountains, 
and are said to select the most rough and precipitous parts 
where grass is found. They are not covered with wool, 
but with hair so bordering upon wool as to render their coat 
warm in the winter. 

The mountain goat, and sheep, did not come under my 
observation. I was anxious to obtain specimens of them 
for description, but succeeded in obtaining only small parts 
of their skins. 

It is hardly necessary to say that the beaver, so noted for 
its valuable fur, for its activity and perseverance — its so- 
cial habits, its sagacity and skill in constructing its village, 
and preparing its neat and comfortable dwellings, is an in- 
habitant of this country. It has been sought with avidity, 
and has been a source of wealth to many, but to multitudes, 



204 ANIMALS. 

of poverty, misery, and death. It would be difficult to sum 
up the woes of the last class of adventurers. Its flesh is 
very good for food, and the trapper and hunter depend al- 
most entirely upon it for subsistence, while in its pursuit. 
Although I ate several times the flesh of the beaver, yet I 
discovered no evidence of the truth of the assertion often 
made, that while the flesh of the fore parts is of the quality 
of land animals, its hind parts are in smell and taste like 
fish. I should think it would require much assistance from 
imagination to discover the fish taste. 

Here also the land otter is found, and is somewhat numer- 
ous, and next to the beaver is sought with avidity by the 
hunter and trader. The shades of its color vary from a light, 
to a deep, beautiful brown. The fur is rich and in great 
demand, and there is none found in any country of better 
quality than the skins I saw at different trading posts of the 
Hudson Bay Company. Its formation is adapted to land 
and water, having short and muscular legs, so articulated 
that it can bring them horizontal with its body, and use 
them as fins in the water ; and its- toes are webbed like wa- 
ter fowl. It subsists principally upon fish, frogs and other 
aquatic animals. It has a peculiar habit, which seems to 
be its pastime, for we know of no motive it can have, un- 
less it be the love of amusement, which is to ascend a high 
ridge of snow, and with its legs thrown back, slide down 
head foremost upon its breast. When there is no snow, it 
will in the same manner slide down steep, smooth, grassy 
banks. 

The sea otter, so highly and justly valued for its rich fur, 
is found only along the American coast and adjacent islands, 
from opposite Kamschatka, to Upper California. They vary 
in size, are generally about four feet long when full grown, 



ANIMALS. 205 

and nine inches in diameter. Its legs are very short, and 
its feet are webbed. Its fur is of the first quality, long 
and glossy, extremely fine, intermixed with some hairs ; 
the outside is black, sometimes, however, dusky, and the 
inside a cinerous brown. They are amphibious, sportive, 
and often bask upon the shore for repose, and when asleep, 
the Indians approach and slay them. They have been so 
much hunted for their valuable fur, that they are rapidly 
diminishing in numbers. 

The hair seal is very frequently seen in the waters of 
Columbia river. Its head is large and round, its eyes full 
and mild. I often saw it swimming after our canoe, pre- 
senting to view its head, neck, and shoulders, appearing in 
some degree, like the mastiff dog. Its hair is of various 
colors, generally a dappled gray. It rarely goes far from 
its most natural element, water ; but is sometimes seen bask- 
ing upon rocks on the shore, and this is the most favora- 
ble opportunity for killing it ; for its motions are so quick 
in the water, that it will submerge at the flash of the ri- 
fle, and if killed in the water it sinks, and is difficult to be 
obtained. 

The racoon is somewhat numerous in parts of this coun- 
try, more especially towards the ocean. I could not dis- 
cover any difference in their appearance and habits from 
those in the United States. 

The badger inhabits this country, and is found on the 
plains west of the great chain of mountains. Having given 
a short description of this animal, page 62, when passing 
through the parts where it was seen, it is not necessary in 
this place to make any further remarks. 

The weasel, the polecat, the marmot, the mink and musk- 
rat, are common, though not numerous in this country, and 



206 ANIMALS. 

not differing from those on the eastern part of this continent, 
they do not need description. 

The prairie dog. briefly described on page 63, is found 
both on the east and the west sides of the mountains. It is 
about fourteen inches long, and is rather heavily formed, 
and is undoubtedly a distinct species of animal. It has re- 
ceived its name from a barking sound, like that of a very 
small dog, which it utters when any danger is apprehended. 
It is covered with a rich, dark brown fur. They live in 
communities and burrow in the ground, and their villages 
often extend over some miles of territory, which is so per- 
forated as to endanger both horse and rider, when passing 
over them. Some one or more are selected for sentinels, 
and are seated upon the small mounds formed by excavating 
their dwellings, and while the principal part of their com- 
munity are busy in procuring food, these sentinels are on 
the look-out, and as soon as danger threatens, they give the 
alarm by a shrill bark, when all instantly fly to their sub- 
terranean habitations, for safety. 

There is a small species of the marmol, of which I have 
seen no description in any work on natural history, which 
is probably peculiar to this country. It is called by the 
Nez Perces, eluet : is five inches long from the tip of its 
nose, exclusive of its tail, which is two in length — its body 
is one inch and a third in diameter, the color is brown, 
beautifully intermixed with small white spots upon its back ; 
the under parts of its body are of a dull white. It has eight 
long hairs projecting from the nose, on each side, and two 
over each eye. Its habits resemble those belonging to its 
genus. It is remarkably nimble in its movements. The 
Indians esteem its flesh a luxury. 

The wolverine is said to inhabit these western regions, 



ANIMALS. 207 

and I saw one in the Salmon river mountains, which my 
Indians killed. The animal differed in several particulars 
from the description given by Richardson. It was one foot 
nine inches from its nose to its tail ; its body was not large 
in proportion to the length, short legs, small eyes and ears : 
the neck short, and as large as the head, and its mouth 
shaped like that of the dog. Its color was uniformly a 
dark brown, nearly black ; and its fur was more than an 
inch long and coarse. I had no opportunity of observing 
its habits. 

The hedgehog is common in all parts of the Oregon Ter- 
ritory, does not differ from those found in other parts of 
America, and for its quills, is held in high estimation by 
the Indians. It is interesting to see with how much inge- 
nuity, and in how many various forms, the Indians manufac- 
ture these quills into ornamental work, such as moccasons, 
belts, and various other articles. 

There are three kinds of squirrels — two of which I have 
already described. The third is the gray, which differs 
from those in the United States in being larger and its color 
more beautifully distinct. I saw many of their skins made 
into robes and worn by the Indians about the Cascades. 

Of the feline, or cat kind, there are the panther, the long- 
tailed tiger cat, the common wild cat, and the lynx. The 
panther is rarely seen, and the difference of climate and 
country produce no change in its ferociousness and other 
habits, from those found in other parts of America. The 
long-tailed tiger cat is more common, very large, and of a 
dull reddish color. Also the common wild cat is often 
seen. It is much smaller, its tail is short and its color 
is like the above named. I can only name the lynx, as 
they did not come under my observation. It is in the 



208 f ANIMALS. 

lower, wooded country they are found, and the Indians say 
they are numerous. 

There are five different species of wolves ; the common 
gray wolf, the black, blue, white, and the small prairie wolf. 
The common gray wolf is the same as those found in the 
United States, and has all their common habits. The black 
wolf, I did not see, but as described by Mr. Ermitinger, a 
gentleman belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, is larger 
than the gray and more noble in its appearance, and is the 
strongest of the wolf kind. Those which the same gentle- 
man called the blue wolf, are rarely seen, as also the white, 
and so far as their habits are known, they do not materi- 
ally differ from others. The small prairie wolf is the most 
common, and bears the greatest resemblance to the dog, 
and has been called the wild dog. It differs from the dog 
in all the peculiarities of the wolf kind as much as the 
others do. It is as uniform in its color, size, and habits. 
They are of a dull reddish gray, never particolored ; the 
hair is always long, blended with brown fur at its roots, 
and like other wolves they are always prowling and cow- 
ardly. They are more numerous than the other kinds, and 
in considerable numbers follow the caravans to feed upon 
the offals. Although we frequently heard them howl and 
bark around our encampments, yet they never disturbed 
our rest. 

Much has been said about the immense number of wolves 
beyond the Rocky Mountains, but I did not find them so 
numerous as I expected. I do not make this assertion 
solely from the fact that I saw or heard only a few, but 
from the testimony of those whose long residence in this 
country entitles them to credit. It is the traveler who 
never saw the country he describes, or the lover of the 



ANIMALS. 209 

marvelous, or he who does not expect soon to be followed 
in his route through dreary and uninhabited wilds, who 
sees, and minutely relates, adventures with the reptiles and 
monsters of the desert. 

The fox, which is generally dispersed through the world, 
is found here in three different kinds ; the red, gray, and 
silver. They do not differ from those found east of the 
mountains. The silver gray fox is scarce, and highly 
esteemed, and takes the highest rank among the furs of 
commerce. Its color is dark, sometimes nearly black, the 
ends of the hairs tipped with white, and in addition to the 
uncommonly fine texture, the fur presents a beautiful glossy 
appearance. 

Martins are not abundant ; some are found about the 
head waters of the Columbia in woody mountains, but they 
are more numerous and of superior quality farther north. 

The inoffensive, timorous hare, in three different species, 
abounds in all parts of this country. Its natural instinct 
for self-preservation, its remarkably prominent eye, its large 
active ear, and its soft fur, are its characteristics in this, as 
in other regions. The three species are, the large common 
hare, which is generally known ; the small chief hare with 
large round ears ; and a very small species, only five or six 
inches long, with pointed ears. If the first named differs 
in any particular from those in the United States, it is in its 
manner of running, and its speed. Its bound is not regu- 
lar, but its motions are an alternate running and leaping 
at an almost incredible distance, and with such swiftness 
that I frequently mistook it, at first view, for the prairie 
hen, which I supposed was flying near the surface of the 
ground. Its flesh, when used for food, is tender and of a 

pleasant flavor, 

19 



210 ANIMALS. 

The only dress which many of the Indians have to pro- 
tect them from the cold, is made of the skins of these ani- 
mals, patched together into a scanty robe. 

There are four varieties of bears, though it is supposed 
there are only two distinct species. These are the white, 
grizzly, brown, and black. The white bear is ferocious and 
powerful, but their numbers are so small in the region of 
the Oregon country, that they are not an object of dread. 
But the grizzly bear is far more numerous, more formidable, 
and larger, some of them weighing six or eight hundred 
pounds. Their teeth are formed for strength, and their 
claws are equally terrific, measuring four or five inches ; 
and their feet, which are astonishingly large, exclusive of 
the claws, measuring not far from ten inches long, and five 
inches wide. There are some even larger. The shades 
of their color vary from a very light gray to a dark brown, 
always retaining the grizzly characteristic. Among a mul- 
titude of their skins which I saw, there were some beauti- 
fully dappled, and as large as buffalo robes. These were 
held in high estimation. Their hair and fur is longer, finer, 
and more abundant than of any other species. They de- 
pend more upon their strength than speed for taking their 
prey, and therefore generally lurk in willows or other 
thickets, and suddenly seize upon any animal which may 
be passing near. The mountain men tell as many won- 
derful stories about their encounters with these prodigies of 
strength and ferocity, as some mountain travelers tell us 
about constant battles with the Blackfeet Indians, and star- 
vation, and eating dogs. Now I may be considered defi- 
cient in a. flexible and fruitful imagination, if I do not enter- 
tain my readers with one bear story, after having traveled 
thousands of miles over prairies, and mountains, through 



ANIMALS. 211 

valleys, ravines, and amongst caves, chasms and deserts. 
But as I did not myself have any wonderful encounters, I 
must borrow from a gentleman of established good charac- 
ter, belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, who gave me 
an account of a case which he witnessed. He and a num- 
ber of others were traveling in canoes up the Athabasca 
river, and one morning one of their hunters shot upon the 
shore a large cub of a grizzly bear, which they took on 
board a canoe, and of which they made their supper on 
encamping for the night. While seated around their fire 
in conversation, the supposed mother of the slain cub ap- 
proached, sprang across the circle and over the fire, seized 
the hunter who had shot the cub, threw him across her 
shoulder, and made off with him. They all laid hold of 
their rifles and pursued, but feared to fire lest they should 
injure their companion. But he" requested them to fire, 
which one of them did and wounded the bear. She then 
dropped the first offender, and laid hold of the last in like 
manner as the first, but more roughly, and accelerated her 
departure. There was no time to be lost, and several fired 
at the same time, and brought her to the ground. The last 
man was badly wounded but recovered. The "great med- 
icine" or mystery in this case, I shall not attempt to ex- 
plain, but let every one account for it in his own way. 

The brown bear is less ferocious, more solitary, and not 
highly esteemed either for food or for its skin. The black 
bear is somewhat similar in its habits to the brown, but lives 
more upon vegetable food, and is more in estimation for its 
pure black, well-coated skin. 

I close with the buffalo, which is of the bovine genus, and 
is the largest and the most important for food and covering 
of any of the animals in our country. I need not in this 



*212 - ANIMALS. 

place go into so long description, as otherwise would be im- 
portant, having already spoken of them as I was passing 
through their range of country. After having seen thous- 
ands and ten thousands of them, and having had months of 
time to examine their forms and habits, I do not think they 
should be classed with the buffalo or bison of the eastern 
continent. Not with the buffalo, if historians have given a 
correct description of those on that continent. Th? flesh 
of those is said to be " black, hard, and very unpalatable ; 
their hides impenetrable, making soft and smooth leather — 
their race is so fierce and formidable, that there is no meth- 
od of escaping their pursuit but by climbing up some im- 
mense tree ; for a moderate tree would be broken down by 
them, and many travelers have instantly been gored to death 
by them and trampled to pieces under their feet." It is 
said " their voice is a hideous loud bellow." But none of 
these things are true of the buffalo of our country. 

If a true account has been given of the bison of the east- 
ern continent, our buffalo differ from them in several mate- 
rial traits of character and habits. Those of the eastern 
continent, are said to have " small heads, with horns so wide 
spread, that three men can sit between them — that their 
eyes are small, red and fiery — that they have a hump upon 
their backs like a camel, and which is preferred to be eat- 
en for its delicacy — that they are fierce and vindictive, so 
that men have to fly to trees for safety — that the bulls and 
cows live in separate bands." These things do not corres- 
pond with the buffalo or bison of our western prairies. 

The buffalos or bisons of our country are generally about 
as large as our domestic neat cattle, and the long, shaggy, 
woolly hair which covers profusely their head, neck, and 
shoulders, gives them an imposing appearance, at a distance 



-ANIMALS. 213 

something like the lion. Probably there is not any animal 
in the world, that presents an appearance so formidable 
and terrific, as the buffalo bull, when excited and determin- 
ed upon resistance. 

Their color is a dark brown, when they are in the best 
condition for robes, which is from November until Janua- 
ry. As the season advances, their woolly fur increases in 
length and assumes a pale color; but after shedding their 
coat, their fur is very short and nearly black. In many 
particulars they resemble our horned cattle ; they are clo- 
ven footed, chew the cud, and select the same kind of food. 
Their flesh is in appearance and taste much like beef, but 
of superior flavor, and remarkably easy of digestion. Their 
heads are formed like the ox, perhaps a little more round 
and broad, and when running, they carry them rather low. 
Their horns, ears, and eyes, as seen through their shaggy 
hair, appear small, and when cleared from their covering, 
they are not large. Their legs and feet are small and trim, 
the fore legs covered with the long hair of the shoulders 
as low down as the knee. Though their figure is clumsy 
in appearance, yet they run swiftly and for a long time 
without greatly slackening their speed ; and in ascending 
steep hills or mountains they more than equal the best hor- 
ses. They unite in herds, and when feeding, scatter over 
a large space, but when fleeing from danger, they collect 
into dense columns, and having once laid their course, are 
not easily diverted from it, whatever may oppose ; and in- 
deed it cannot be done with safety to themselves ; for should 
the foremost halt, or turn directly from their course, the 
dense mass in the rear rushing on would overthrow and de- 
stroy them. They can change their direction only by taking 

a circuitous course. Their sense of smelling is very acute, 
19* 



214 ANIMALS. 

and they perceive the hunter, when he is on the windward 
side, at a great distance, the alarm is taken, and when any 
of them manifest fear, they are thrown into confusion until 
some of the cows, from the instinct of fear, take the lead to 
flee from the pursuer, and then all follow at the top of their 
speed. So far are they from being a fierce and revengeful 
animal, that they are very shy and timid ; and in no case 
did I see them offer to make an attack, except in self de- 
fense when wounded and closely pursued, and then they 
always sought the first opportunity to escape. When they 
run they lean alternately from one side to the other. The 
herds are composed promiscuously of bulls and cows, ex- 
cept some of the old bulls, which are often found by them- 
selves in the rear or in advance of the main bands. Some- 
times an old blind one is seen alone and separated from all 
others ; and it was amusing to see their consternation when 
they apprehend the approach of danger. The natural in- 
stincts of fear and prudence lead them to fly alternately in 
every possible direction for safety. I was pleased to find 
our most thoughtless young men respect their age and pity 
their calamity ; for in no instance did I see any abuse offer- 
ed them. They are fond of rolling upon the ground like 
horses, which is not practiced by our domestic cattle. 
This is so much their diversion, that large places are found 
without grass and considerably excavated. The use of 
their skins for robes, and the woolly fur, with which they 
are covered, are so universally known, that a description is 
entirely unnecessary. Another peculiarity which belongs 
to them is, that they never raise their voice above a low 
bellow ; in no instance were we disturbed by their lowing, 
even when surrounded by thousands, and in one of our en- 
campments, it was supposed there were five thousand near. 



ANIMALS. 2 15 

It has been said they do not visit any of the districts formed 
of primitive rocks. This is said without reason, for I saw 
them as frequently in those districts, in proportion to their 
extent, as where other formations existed. It is also said 
that as they recede from the east they are extending west. 
This is also incorrect ; for, as I have before said, their lim- 
its are becoming more and more circumscribed." And if 
they should continue to diminish for twenty years to come, 
as they have during the last twenty, they will become al- 
most extinct. 

It is unpleasant to contemplate the period, when this no- 
ble animal will be seen no more, and will be known only 
in history and seen only upon canvass. Thousands and 
hundreds of thousands are slain yearly, not for food, but for 
robes, to gratify the luxury of civilized men, as is seen in 
almost every vehicle for business or pleasure. 



216 FISH. 



CHAPTER XV. 

Fish — description of salmon — salmon fishery — ornithology —dendrol- 
ogy — shrubbery — nutritive roots — geography — mountains — valleys 
— plains — forests— rivers — soil — seasons, 

I pass to a brief notice of the fish found in the waters of 
the Columbia. Their number is great, but their variety is 
small. The salmon, sturgeon, anchovy, rock cod, and trout 
are all that came under my particular observation. Shad 
have not been found in these western waters. The stur- 
geon of good quality and in large numbers, commence as- 
cending the rivers in the fore part of April, and furnish food 
to the suffering Indians. I say suffering, for before the 
opening of the spring, their stock of provisions is consumed, 
and they are seen searching for roots and any thing which 
will sustain life ; and though I do not feel authorized to 
say what others have said, that in the latter part of the win- 
ter and beginning of spring, they die with starvation in great 
numbers, yet they are brought to extreme want, and look 
forward, with great solicitude, to the time when the sturgeon 
shall come into the river. A small fish, like the anchovy, 
about six inches long, very fat and well flavored, come into 
the river in great numbers about the same time or a little 
before the sturgeon. The Indians obtain large quantities of 
oil from them by putting them into a netting strainer and 
exposing them to gentle heat. 

The rock codfish were not known to inhabit the waters 



FISH. 2 IT 

about the mouth of the Columbia, until the present year. 
They are very fine and easily caught, 

The salmon is far the most numerous and valuable fish 
found in these waters, and is of excellent flavor. It is well 
ascertained that there are not less than six different species 
or varieties of the true salmon that ascend these waters, 
commencing about the twentieth of April. Their muscular 
power is exceedingly great, which is manifested in passing 
the falls and rapids which would seem insuperable. They 
are never known to return, but are constantly pressing their 
way upwards, so that it is not uncommon to find them in 
the small branches of the rivers near the very sources. 
We found them in September near the- Rocky Mountains, 
where they are said to be as late as November and Decem- 
ber. I saw some with parts of their heads worn to the bone 
and the skin worn from various parts of their bodies, which 
appears to be the result of efforts to ascend until they per- 
ish. Late in the season, great numbers are found dead, 
furnishing food for crows, vultures, eagles, foxes and 
wolves — and even Indians ; for I have seen them drive 
away the crows and appropriate the remnants to them- 
selves. When the salmon become much emaciated, the 
flesh loses its rich redness, and it is seen in the skin, which 
gives the fish a beautiful appearance ; but when in this 
state it is hardly edible. It is worthy of notice, that the 
salmon has its preferences of water, selecting some branch- 
es of the Columbia river and passing by others; and those 
taken in some of the tributary streams are far better than 
those taken in others. While those which ascend the riv- 
ers never return, the young are seen in September descend- 
ing on their way to the ocean, in immense numbers. It is 
believed these return the fourth year after their descent ; 



218 FISHERY. 

but this may be only conjecture. It is difficult to estimate 
how many salmon might be taken in these rivers, if proper 
measures were pursued ; and also what would be the re- 
sults upon the numbers which would continue to enter and 
ascend. I think without doubt a plan might be devised 
and adopted to carry on a salmon fishery in this river to 
good advantage and profit. The experiment was made by 
a company from the United States, which failed, for it con- 
tained the elements of its own overthrow. The company 
sent out large quantities of rum, probably calculating on 
the fact that the Indians are fond of ardent spirits, and if 
they should gratify this appetite, they should enlist them in 
their favor, and as Indians will do anything for rum, they 
would catch and sell fish to them. Whatever the object of 
the company might have been in sending and dealing out 
so much rum, the Indians were highly pleased with receiv- 
ing it in pay for their salmon. But when they had thus 
obtained it they would become intoxicated and disqualified 
for labor, and more time was wasted in drunkenness, than 
employed in fishing. Besides, the salmon were often suf- 
fered to lie in the hot sun until they were much injured, if 
not wholly spoiled. The result was, that the company, as 
I was informed, obtained only about four hundred barrels 
of salmon, and made a losing voyage ; and the superintend- 
ent of Fort Vancouver told me, that when the company 
abandoned their business, they stored many barrels of rum 
at his fort. My information was not wholly derived from 
those who had been in the employment of that company, 
and gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Company, but in part 
from the Indians, who often spoke to me upon the subject 
by way of praise. They would say, " close, Mas lum" sig- 
nifying, good, plenty of rum. 



ORNITHOLOGY. 219 

The birds of Oregon are not as numerous as those which 
inhabit civilized countries, probably because they have not 
access to the grain and fruit of cultivated fields, and the 
woods and groves are more widely dispersed. But they 
are sufficiently numerous to employ an ornithologist profit- 
ably, for a great length of time in collecting and preserving 
specimens. This region is particularly interesting from 
the fact, that in this as in other departments of natural sci- 
ence, it has hitherto been an unexplored field — no compe- 
tent scientific person having visited this country to classify 
the different genera and species. Mr. J. K. Tovvnsend, of 
Philadelphia, an ornithologist, has spent two years in ex- 
amining scientifically this field, and will probably give to 
the public the result of his labors. I am indebted to him 
for assistance in the following summary. 

The largest part of the feathered race are migratory, 
and are seen only a part of the year ; there are many, how- 
ever, that reside here during the whole year. Among these 
are the majestic white-headed eagle, and the golden eagle, 
and three or four species of hawks, two species of jay, the 
magpie, Corvus pica, and thousands of ravens and crows ; 
several species of small sparrows, and two or three species 
of grouse, the common partridge of the United States, and 
the dusky grouse of the Rocky Mountains ; and also an in- 
teresting species of the dipper or water ousel. The habits 
of this bird are very curious and peculiar, particularly that 
of descending to the bottom of ponds and swiftly running 
streams, and there in search of small shell-fish, remaining 
under water, for at least two minutes, during which time 
it will course about upon the pebbly bottom, with as much 
apparent ease and satisfaction, as if upon dry land. The 
red-winged black-bird and the robin continue through the 



220 ORNITHOLOGY. 

year. The notes of the latter are heard even in the chill 
of the winter, though in feeble strains. 

As the autumn advances, the number of swans, geese, 
and ducks multiply. I have already mentioned these wa- 
ter fowl. The black cormorant is common upon the Co- 
lumbia river, and there are other species of the same genus, 
seen about the shores of the Cape, which do not ascend the 
rivers. Among these is the violet green cormorant, the 
most splendid of all the known species of cormorants. The 
loon, or great northern diver, is very plentiful in this river. 
Gulls, terns, auks, and petrels, in great numbers, visit this 
river to seek shelter from the violent storms which agitate 
the ocean during the winter. 

The spring, with rising vegetation and opening flowers, 
brings its hosts of lovely feathered tribes, which remain for 
different periods of time ; many of them continue only a 
few weeks, and then retire to other parts for nidification. 
There are, however, great numbers that remain through 
the summer, and their delightful songs add to the charms 
of a fine morning of April and May. Among these are 
hundreds of warblers, wrens, titmice and nuthatches. Of 
the warblers there are eleven species, six of which are 
new ; the other five are common to the States. Several of 
the species are but transient visitors, but most of them re- 
main through the season. Of the wrens there are six spe- 
cies ; three of the titmice, and two of the nuthatches. And 
in the train follow the thrushes, of which there are seven 
species, two of which are new ; of these Wilson's thrush is 
pre-eminent in sweetness of song. The fly catchers num- 
ber eight species, three of which are new ; and there are 
thirteen species of the finches, three of which are new. 
These are a large and musical band, among which are 



DENDROLOGY. 221 

several of the finest songsters known in the world. In no 
instance do we find more richness and delicacy of plumage, 
with the most sweet melody of voice, than in a new species 
of large bullfinch, which visits this section of country in the 
spring. If these were domesticated, they would form a 
most valuable addition to any aviary. There are eight 
species of woodpeckers, four of which are new ; and of the 
swallow tribe there are five species, one of which is new. 
and is the most beautiful of the family, characterized by a 
splendid changeable green plumage on the head and back, 
while the other parts are purple and white. About the 
middle of March, the splendid little Nootka humming bird 
makes his appearance, coming so suddenly that you won- 
der from whence he came, as the fact of his performing a 
long migration of weeks, with his delicate little wings, over 
a cold and fiowerless country, or across the sea, seems in- 
credible. The neck of this beautiful bird presents fine va- 
riations of color ; now it is ruby red, with a metallic lustre : 
turn it, and the tints vary from purple to violet and crimson, 
according as the light falls upon it. 

I pass over the mention of many genera, and still more 
numerous species of the different birds of this region, as it 
is not my design to attempt a history of them, but only to 
give a succinct sketch, that some idea may be formed of the 
ornithological treasures of this interesting country. 

Having frequently made mention of the trees and shrub- 
bery west of the great mountains, I shall in this place only 
enumerate the principal, describing a few. I have said 
there are three species of fir, and that they constitute far 
the greatest part of the forest trees, and are very large. 
The three kinds are the red, yellow and white. They dif- 
fer not only in the color of the wood, but also in their foliage. 

20 



222 * DENDROLOGY. 

The foliage of the red is scattered on all sides of the branch- 
lets in the same form as those found in the United States ; 
the yellow only on the upper side, or the upper half of the 
twigs ; the white is oppositely pinnated. The balsam is 
alike in the three different species, found in blisters upon 
the bark in the same form as in other countries. 

White pine is not native in the lower country, nor far 
west of the main chain of the Rocky Mountains ; a few 
pitch are found in the same region with the white. Nor- 
way and yellow pine are native farther west, but not below 
the Cascades of the Columbia. The new species, which I 
have called the elastic pine, is far the most numerous, but 
I did not see any of these as far west as Walla Walla. 

The cedar is the common species, grows very large and 
tall, and is the best of the forest trees for various mechani- 
cal uses. The yew is also found among the evergreens, 
though it is scarce. The tamarisk is found in small sec- 
tions of the country. The white oak of good quality, and 
often large, is a common tree of the forest, and also the 
black, rough-barked oak grows in some of the mountainous 
parts. In an excursion down the rich prairies below Fort 
Vancouver, where there are trees scattered about like shade 
trees upon a well cultivated farm, I measured a white oak, 
which was eight feet in diameter, continued large about 
thirty feet high, and then branched out immensely wide, 
under which Mr. T. and myself, with our horses, found an 
excellent shelter during a shower of rain. There are two 
kinds of ash, the common white ash and the broad leafed. 
The latter is very hard. There is also alder, which I have 
mentioned as growing very large, and on dry ground as well 
as on that which is low and swampy. 

There are three species of poplar, the common aspen, the 



SHRUBBERY. 223 

cotton, and balm. The first is common in various parts of 
the United States, and is well known ; the second is common- 
ly called cotton- wood, skirting rivers and streams as in the" 
western States ; the third is the Populus balsamifera, often 
called the balm of Gilead. Its distinguishing properties 
are ovate leaves, and a bitter balsam in a glutinous state 
found in the small twigs, but mostly in the buds. This last 
species in some places spreads over large sections of bottom- 
land, where the soil is uncommonly good. White maple is 
found, but only in small quantities. Willows of various 
species are common in all parts of the country. There is 
a tree in the lower country which grows much in the form 
of the laurel or bay tree, but much larger — the bark is 
smooth and of a red bay color, its leaves are ovate. It has 
been called the strawberry tree, but I do not know with what 
propriety. There are no walnut or hickory trees westrof 
the great mountains, nor chestnut of any species, or hard 
or sugar maple, or beach, linden or bass-wood, black cherry, 
cucumber, white wood, elms, or any kind of birch, except 
a species of black birch which grows small ; nor are there 
any of the species of locusts, hackberry, or buckeye. I 
might lengthen out the catalogue of negatives, but the above 
observations are sufficient to give a general view of the for- 
est trees of the country. 

The varieties of shrubbery and plants are so numerous, 
that their examination would employ the botanist many 
months. I shall only sketch a few of those which are scatter- 
ed over the prairies and through the forests. Among tKese 
are several varieties of the thorn-bush, many of which are 
large and fruitful. Those bearing the red apple, present, 
when they are ripe, a very beautiful appearance. There is 
one species peculiar to the country west of the mountains, the 



224 PLANTS. 

fruit of which is black and of a delightfully sweet taste, but 
not generally dispersed through the country. It is princi- 
pally native about the Blue Mountains, the Walla Walla 
and Ummatilla rivers. The choke cherry is common to all 
parts of the country, and its fruit is very grateful where ani- 
mal food is principally depended upon for subsistence. The 
salalberry is a sweet and pleasant fruit, of a dark purple 
color, oblong, and about the size of a grape. The ser- 
viceberry is about the size of a small thorn apple, black 
when fully ripe, and pleasantly sweet like the whortleber- 
ry ; and the pambina is a bush cranberry. The varieties 
of the gooseberry are many — the common prickly, which 
grows very large on a thorny bush — the small white, which 
is smooth and very sweet — the large smooth purple, and 
the smooth yellow, which are also of a fine flavor. All of 
these attain to a good maturity, and tho'se growing on the 
prairies are very superior. There are three varieties of 
the currant, the pale red, the yellow, which is well tasted, 
and the black. Though these are a pleasant acid, yet they 
are not so prolific and desirable as those which grow under 
the hand of cultivation. The beautiful shrub Symphoria 
racemosa, called the snowberry, which is found in some of 
our gardens, grows here wild and in great abundance. 

Besides the common raspberries, there is a new species 
which grows in the forests, the berry of which is three times 
as large as the common, is a very delicate rich yellow, but 
the flavor is less agreeable. There is a new species of 
sweet elder which I have already described. The climbing 
honeysuckle is among the first ornaments of nature. 

The sweet flowering pea grows spontaneously, and in 
some places embellishes large patches of ground. In some 
small sections red clover is found, differing, however, from 



PLANTS. . 225 

the kind cultivated by our farmers, but not less sweet and 
beautiful ; white clover is found in the upper and moun- 
tainous parts. Strawberries are indigenous, and their fla- 
vor is more delicious than any I have tasted in other coun- 
tries. 

Sun-flowers are common, but do not grow large ; also a 
species of broom-corn, is found in many places of the bot- 
tom-lands of the Columbia and other streams. To these 
may be added a wild grain somewhat resembling barley, 
or rye. Wild flax I have mentioned and described on 
page 91. 

Among the nutritive roots, I have mentioned the wappa- 
too and the cammas. The wappatoo, is the sagittaria, or 
arrow head, and is found only in the valley of the Colum- 
bia below the Cascades. The root is bulbous, and becomes 
soft by roasting, forming a nourishing and agreeable food, 
is much used by the Indians, and is an article of trade. 
It grows in shallow lakes, and in marshes which are cov- 
ered with water. The Indian women wade in search of 
this root, feel it out in the mud and disengage it with their 
feet, when it rises to the surface of the water and is secured. 
The cammas, a tunicated root, in the form of an onion, is 
of great importance to the Indians and grows in moist 
rich ground. It is roasted, pounded and made into loaves, 
and dried, and has a taste resembling licorice. The cow. 
ish, or biscuit root, grows on dry land, somewhat larger 
than a walnut, tastes like a sweet' potato,- is prepared in 
the same manner for food as the cammas, and is a toler- 
able substitute for bread. To these may be added the 
racine am6re, or bitter root, which grows on dry ground, 
is fusiform, and though not pleasant to the taste, is very 

conducive to health ; also the common onion, and another 

20* 



226 GEOGRAPHY. 

characterized by its beautiful red flower, which often grows* 
upon patches of volcanic scoria, where no other vegetation 
is seen. 

Although a description of the Oregon Territory has been 
necessarily interwoven in the narrative, yet a condensed ac- 
count of its geography may with propriety be given here. 
In comparing the country west with that east of the moun- 
tains, especially the great valley of the Mississippi, we are 
impressed very powerfully with the strong contrast which 
their distinguishing features present. The valley of the 
Mississippi may be called the garden of the world — every 
part abounding in rich soil inviting cultivation. We seldom 
see any barren or rocky wastes, any far extended swamps 
or marshes — no frozen mountains. Destitute of prominent 
land-marks to catch the eye of the traveler, he sees in the 
wide distance before him only the almost horizontal lines 
of level or rolling meadow. No one points him to the 
peaks of dim mountains and tells him that the range di- 
vides two sister states, or separates two noble rivers. He 
sees no clouds resting on the shoulders of lofty Butes and 
blending their neutral tint with the hazy blue of the land- 
scape before him — nor Tetons rearing their heads into the 
region of perpetual snow — and day after day he pursues 
his journey without any thing to create in his bosom emo - 
tions of the grand and the sublime, unless it be the vastness 
of the expanse. 

Beyond the Rocky Mountains, nature appears to have 
studied variety on the largest scale. Towering mountains 
and widely extended prairies, rich valleys and barren 
plains ; and large rivers with rapids, cataracts and falls, 
present a great diversity of prospect. The whole country 
is so mountainous, that there is not an elevation from which 



VALLEYS PLAINS. 227 

a person cannot see some of the immense ranges which 
intersect its different parts. On an elevation a short dis- 
tance from Fort Vancouver, five isolated conical mountains, 
from ten to fifteen thousand feet high, whose tops are cov- 
ered with perpetual snow, may be seen rising in the sur- 
rounding valley. There are three general ranges, west of 
the rocky chain of mountains, running in northern and 
southern directions. The first above the Falls of the Co- 
lumbia river ; the second at and below the Cascades ; the 
third towards and along the shores of the Pacific. From 
each of these, branches extend in different directions. Be- 
sides these there are others which are large and high, 
such as the Blue Mountains south of Walla Walla — the 
Salmon river mountains between the Salmon and the Coos- 
coots-ke rivers ; and also in the regions of Okanagan and 
Colvile. 

Between these mountains are wide-spread valleys and 
plains. The largest and most fertile valley is included be- 
tween Deer Island on the west, to within twelve miles of 
the Cascades, and is about fifty-five miles wide, and extend- 
ing north and south to a greater extent than I had the means 
of definitely ascertaining ; probably from Pugets sound on 
the north, to the Umbiqua river on the south. The Willa- 
mette river and a section of the Columbia are included in 
this valley. The valley south of the Walla Walla, called 
the Grand Round, is said to excel in fertility. To these 
may be added Pierre's Hole and the adjacent conntry ; 
also Racine Amere, east of the Salmon river mountains. 
On Mill river, which unites with the Columbia at Colvile, 
from the south, through a valley of more than fifty miles, 
there are rich bottom lands. While these are open and 
ready for cultivation, the hills on both sides of the valley 



228 FORESTS — RIVERS. 

are covered with woods. Other fertile sections of consid- 
erable magnitude are dispersed over different parts of the 
country. To these may be subjoined extensive plains, most 
of which are prairies well covered with grass. The whole 
region of country west of Salmon river mountains, the 
Spokein woods, Okanagan, and quite to the range of moun- 
tains which cross the Columbia at the Fall's, is a vast 
prairie covered with grass, and the soil is generally good. 
Another large plain, which is said to be very barren, lies 
off to the south and south-west of Lewis' or Snake river, 
including the Shoshones' country ; and travelers who have 
passed through, have pronounced the interior of America 
a great barren desert ; but this is drawing a conclusion 
far too broad from premises so limited. So far as I have 
had opportunity for observation, I should feel warranted in 
saying, that while some parts of Oregon are barren, large 
portions are well adapted to grazing ; and others, though 
less extensive, are adapted to both tillage and grazing. 

Upon the subject of forests, I would only observe, that a 
large proportion of the country west of the mountains is 
destitute, while some parts are well supplied. I have al- 
ready mentioned the lower country, from below the Falls 
of the Columbia to the ocean, as being well wooded, and 
densely in many parts, especially near the ocean. The 
mountains north of the Salmon river, and the country about 
the Spokein river, and so on still farther north, are well 
furnished with forests, and in some other sections there are 
partial supplies. 

The country in general is well watered, being intersec- 
ted with lakes, and by many large rivers and their tributa- 
ry streams. This might be inferred from the fact that there 
are so many mountains, upon the sides and at the bases of 



RIVERS. 229 

which are multitudes of the finest springs. No country 
furnishes water more pure and of such crystal clearness. 
As the spring and summer heat commences, the snows of 
the mountains melt, and begin to swell the rivers in the be- 
ginning of May, and the freshet continues to increase until 
June, when it is the greatest, and overflows large sections 
of the low lands of the valleys, which have the appearance 
of inland seas. While the rivers of this country are nu- 
merous, and several of them are large, yet inland naviga- 
tion will be attended with difficulties, not only from the ma- 
ny falls and rapids, but from the labor and expense neces- 
sary to construct canals through the immensely hard ba- 
saltic rock formation. The Columbia has three large falls 
in the distance of seven hundred miles ; the Cascades, one 
hundred and thirty miles from the ocean at the head of tide 
water ; the Falls of the Columbia, forty miles above the 
Cascades ; and the Kettle Falls, five hundred and thirty 
miles above the Falls of the Columbia. There are many 
rapids, but the Nine-mile Rapids, thirty miles above Walla 
Walla, are the most embarrassing. The other rivers are 
still more obstructed with Falls and rapids, except the 
Willamette, wnich has only one fall at the head of its tide 
water, thirty miles above its junction with the Columbia. 
The obstruction to a canal around this, is far less than 
around the above named falls ; and when constructed, the 
navigation may be extended fifty miles farther into the 
country. While such is the condition of this country in 
respect to its internal navigation and commerce, the inge- 
nuity of man in our day, has provided something which 
can be most advantageously applied as a remedy. I mean 
rail roads. In making observations, with reference to this 
very subject, I was interested to see the wisdom and benev- 



230 THE SEASONS. 

olence of the Creator, in providing passes through those 
stupendous ranges of mountains, which generally run from 
north to south, and I thought how easily the whole terri- 
tory might be traversed in this way ; and the large pen 
tagonal basaltic columns are ready at hand to facilitate 
the work. No country in the world furnishes better oppor- 
tunities for water power to be applied to manufacturing 
purposes ; almost every river and stream having falls, cas- 
cades and rapids. 

The climate is far more temperate and warm west of 
the Rocky Mountains, than east in the same latitude, there 
being at least ten degrees difference of latitude, as may 
be seen by the subjoined meteorological table. There 
were only three days in the whole winter of my residence 
in the country, that the thermometer sunk as low as 22° 
Farenheit, at Fort Vancouver ; and there were only 
two mornings in the whole month of March when white 
frost was seen. Snow does not fall deep excepting upon 
the mountains ; in the valleys it rarely continues more than 
a few days, or at the farthest only a few weeks ; and by 
the latter part of February or the first of March, ploughing 
and sowing are commenced. And not only is the climate 
uncommonly delightful, but it is also generally healthy, 
and there are scarcely any prevailing diseases, except the 
fever and ague in the lower country, which, as has been 
stated, commenced in 1829; and the opthalmy, which is 
very general among the Indians of the plains. It is wor- 
thy of notice, that thunder and lightning are seldom wit- 
nessed west of the great mountains, but in the valley of the 
Mississippi, they are very frequent and unusually heavy. 

The seasons are divided into two, the rainy in the winter, 
commencing in November, and terminating in May ; the 



THE SEASONS. 231, 

dry in the summer, which is entirely destitute of rain, and 
during which time the atmosphere is remarkably serene, 
while the daily prairie winds relieve the heat of the sun, 
and the season is most delightful. The entire destitution of 
rain, showers, and dew, during summer, does not exclude 
fertility ; nor is it peculiar to this country, for the same is 
true of the whole Pacific coast west of the Andes, and also 
of the Sandwich and Society Islands — yet by various meth- 
ods of irrigation the soil is rendered productive. In the 
country which I am describing, the winter being so mild, 
the grain sown in the fall and spring advances beyond in- 
jury before the drouth becomes severe, and the grass attains 
its growth and dries into hay upon the ground ; and there 
being no moisture to decompose it, retains its nutritive 
properties. 

This territory is, notwithstanding, well supplied with wa- 
ter ; for the benevolent wisdom of God has placed the moun- 
tains, covered with perpetual snows, just where they are 
needed, and where the heat of spring and summer so far 
melts these vast reservoirs, as to fill the rivers and streams, 
and the summer freshet continues for many weeks, 



232 INDIANS OF THE PLAINS. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Character and condition of the Indians — Indians of the plains — their 
persons — dress — wealth — habits — physical character— manufactures 
— their religion — wars — vices — moral disposition — superstitions — 
medicine men. 

As it was the principal object of my tour to ascertain the 
character and condition of the Indians beyond the Rocky 
Mountains, their numbers, and the prospects of establishing 
the gospel among them, it will not only be proper but im- 
portant to give a full and connected description of them in 
these respects. In doing this, while I have availed myself 
of information collected from men of intelligence and in- 
tegrity, I have confined my statements to those things which 
have been corroborated by, or came under my own ob- 
servations ; feeling it a duty to avoid the many fabulous 
accounts which have been given of Indian character and 
customs. Romance may please and excite admiration, 
fiction may charm, but only truth can instruct. 

I will first describe the Indians of the plains. These 
live in the upper country from the falls of the Columbia to 
the Rocky Mountains, and are called the Indians of the 
plains, because a large proportion of their country is prairie 
land. The principal tribes are the Nez Perces, Cayuses, 
Walla Wallas, Bonax, Shoshones, Spokeins, Flatheads, 
Cceur d'Alene, Ponderas, Cootanies, Kettlefalls, Okanagans, 
and Carriers. These do not include probably more than 
one half of those east of the Falls, but of others I have ob- 



COSTUME. 233 

tained but little definite knowledge. They all resemble 
each other in general characteristics. In their persons the 
men are tall, the women are of common stature, and both 
are well formed. While there is a strong natural as well 
as moral resemblance among all Indians, the complexion of 
these is a little fairer than other Indians. Their hair and 
eyes are black, their cheek bones high, and very frequent- 
ly they have aquiline noses. Their hands, feet, and ankles, 
are small and well formed ; and their movements are easy, 
if not graceful. They wear their hair long, part it upon 
their forehead, and let it hang in tresses on each side, or 
down behind. 

There is a great resemblance in the dress of different tribes, 
which generally consists of a shirt, worn over long, close 
leggins, with moccasons for the feet. These are of dressed 
leather made of the skins of deer, antelope, mountain goat 
and sheep ; and over these they wear a blanket or a buffalo 
robe. The borders of their garments are ornamented with 
long fringes. They are fond of ornaments 3- and their heads 
and garments are sometimes decorated with feathers, beads, 
Tt?uttons, and porcupine quills ; these last are colored red, 
yellow, blue, and black, and worked with great skill and 
variety of design. They appear to have less of the propen- 
sity to adorn themselves with painting, than the Indians east 
of the mountains ; but not unfrequently vermilion, mixed 
with red clay, is used not only upon their faces, but upon 
their hair. The dress of the women does not vary much from 
that of the men, excepting, that instead of the shirt, they 
have what we may call a frock coming down to the ankles. 
Many of them wear a large cape made of dressed skins, 
often highly ornamented with large oblong beads of blue, 

red, purple, and white, arranged in curved lines covering 

21 



234 WEALTH. 

the whole. Some of the daughters of the chiefs, when 
clothed in their clean, white dresses of antelope skins, with 
their fully ornamented capes coming down to the waist, and 
mounted upon spirited steeds, going at full speed, their or- 
naments glittering in the sun-beams, make an appearance 
that would not lose in comparison with equestrian ladies 
of the east. Their horses are not less finely caparisoned 
with blue and scarlet trimmings about their heads, breasts, 
and loins, hung with little brass bells. 

While a want of cleanliness is a characteristic of all hea- 
then, the Indians of the plains are less reprehensible than 
others, and are far more neat than those of the lower coun- 
try towards the Pacific. It is not to be understood that 
there are not those among them who are poor, suffering from 
the want of food and clothing. 

Their wealth consists in their horses, and their conse- 
quence depends in a great degree upon the number they 
possess, some owning several hundreds ; and that family 
is poor whose ^umbers are not sufficient for every man, 
woman and child to be mounted, when they are traveling 
from place to place ; and also to carry all their effects. In 
these respects they are far better supplied than any tribes 
I saw east of the mountains. While their horses are their 
wealth, they derive but little from them for the support of 
themselves and families ; for they do not employ them to 
cultivate the earth ; and the market for them is so low, that 
they command but a small price. A good horse will not sell 
for more than enough to purchase a blanket, or a few small 
articles of merchandize. For subsistence, they necessarily 
depend upon hunting and fishing, and gathering roots and 
berries. Their mode of cooking is plain and simple. Most 
of their food is roasted, and they excel in roasting fish. The 



HABITS. 235 

process is to build a small fire in the centre of their lodge, 
to fix the fish upon a stick two or three feet long, and place 
one end in the ground so as to bring the fish partly over the 
fire, and then by a slow process it is most thoroughly roast- 
ed without scorching, or scarcely changing the color. The 
principal art consists in taking time, and our best cooks 
might improve by following their mode.. 

The habits of Indians are said to be indolent. As a gen- 
eral remark it may be true, but I saw but very little to con- 
firm its truth among the Indians of the plains ; for I rarely 
saw any of these Indians not engaged in some object of 
pursuit ; not the most productive perhaps, but such as elicit- 
ed their attention. While I believe that the resemblance, 
both physical and moral, of all the different nations and 
tribes of Indians, spread over large portions of the conti- 
nent of America, is greater than is seen in any people of 
any other country of equal extent ; yet if it is true, that as 
a general fact, as some authors have said, " they are mo- 
rose and gloomy in their countenances ; sullen, or baccha- 
nalian in their dispositions ; that they are rarely so joyful 
as to laugh unless excited by ardent spirits ; that they are 
taciturn and never indulge in mirth ; that they are obtuse 
in sympathy, and destitute of social affections ; that in proud 
disdain they turn away from whatever would excite curios- 
ity ; that no common motives or endearments excite them 
to action ;" if these things are true, then the Indians of Or- 
egon are an exception to the general fact. In all the above 
named particulars, I saw no special difference between 
them and other nations. As a part of the human family, 
they have the same natural propensities and the same so- 
cial affections. They are cheerful and often gay, socia- 
ble, kind and affectionate ; and anxious to receive instruc- 



"236 MANUFACTURES. 

lion in whatever may conduce to their happiness here or 
hereafter. It is worse than idle to speak of " physical in- 
sensibility inwrought into the animal nature of the Indians, 
so that their bodies approximate to the insensibility of 
horses' hoofs." The influence of remarks of this kind is to 
produce, in the bosoms of all who read them, the same in- 
sensibility that is charged upon the native character of the 
Indians. To represent their characters and their restora- 
tion to the common feelings of humanity so hopeless, is 
to steel the heart of even Christianity itself, if it were pos- 
sible, against all sympathy, and to paralize all exertions 
and effort to save them from the twofold destruction to 
which they doom them, temporal and eternal. Is this the 
reason, that Christians are sitting in such supineness over 
their condition, and that the heart-thrilling appeals for 
teachers to enlighten them are disregarded ? Is this the 
reason, that while the philanthropy of the United States' 
citizens towards them is so widely blazoned, those who 
are sent to teach them the arts of civilized life, are sit- 
ting quietly on the borders in governmental pay, while the 
Indians are roaming still over the prairies in search of 
uncertain and precarious game ? I forbear to tell the 
whole story. 

They have but few manufactures, and those are the most 
plain and simple, not extending much beyond dressing the 
skins of animals, and making them into clothing ; making 
bows and arrows and some few articles of furniture. In 
dressing skins they never make any use of bark or tannin. 
Their process is to remove the hair and flesh from the skins 
by scraping them with a hard stone or wood, or when it 
can be obtained, a piece of iron hoop ; and then besmearing 
them with the brains of some animal, they smoke them 



MANUFACTURES. 237 

thoroughly and rub them until they are soft ; and after this 
bleach them with pure white clay. Their mode of smoking 
them is to excavate a small place in the ground, about a 
foot deep, and over this to construct a fixture in the form of 
a lodge, a few feet wide at the base and brought to a point 
at the top. Then they build a small fire in the centre, and 
place the skins around upon the frame work, so as to make 
the enclosure almost smoke tight. The process occupies 
about one day. Their mode of dressing buffalo robes is 
different. They stretch the skin upon the ground, flesh 
side up, fastening it down with pins around the border, 
and then with an instrument formed something like a coop- 
er's adz, made of stone, or wood overlaid with a piece of 
iron, brought to a blunt edge like the currier's knife, they 
clear from it all remaining flesh, and let it thoroughly dry. 
After this, with the same instrument, they work upon it with 
a pounding, hewing stroke, until they have brought it to a 
suitable thickness and rendered it soft and white, as our 
buffalo robes are when brought into market. It is a work 
of great labor, and is performed by the -women. We little 
think: how much toil- it costs a woman to prepare one of 
these robes, and then how little is paid for it by the pur- 
chaser ; a pound of tobacco or a bunch of beads, is as much 
as the Indian generally receives. 

Their bows are made of the most elastic wood, strength- 
ened with the tendons of animals glued upon the back side, 
and the string is made of the same substance. Their ar- 
rows are made of heavy wood, with one end tipped with a 
sharp stone or pointed iron, and the other pinnated with a 
feather. While the first is to pierce, the latter is to govern 
the direction. Their bows and arrows perform astonishing 

execution, and they manage them with great dexterity, 

21* 



238 MANUFACTURES. 

Most of the cooking utensils, which they now use, are 
obtained from traders, and do not often extend beyond a 
brass kettle, tin pail, and a very few knives. They have 
bowls which they manufacture very ingeniously from the 
horns of buffalo ; and sometimes, those that are larger and 
more solid, from the horns of the big horn mountain sheep. 
They have spoons of very good structure made of buffalo 
horns ; also various kinds of baskets of rude workmanship. 
Their saddles are rude, somewhat resembling the Spanish 
saddle, having a high knob forward, and rising high on the 
back part ; generally sitting uneasily upon the horse's 
back. Their bridles consist of a rope well made of the 
hair, or shag of the buffalo, eight or ten feet long, fastened 
in the centre to the under jaw of the horse, and the ends 
are brought over the neck for reins. The lasso, which is 
used for catching horses and some kinds of wild animals. 
is a long rope with a large noose at one end, and the other 
end is held firmly in the hand ; the whole is coiled, and 
when the distance permits it to be thrown, it is usually so 
dexterously done, as to bring the noose over the animal's 
head. When mounted, they often have a long leather thong. 
or a rope, fastened upon the horse's neck, which trails upon 
the ground, and is frequently suffered to remain when the 
horse is turned loose, for the convenience of more easily 
matching him again. 

Their canoes, before they obtained iron hatchets of the 
traders were, with great labor and patience, made with 
hatchets of stone ; and even now, cost them no small effort. 
A canoe of good construction is valued as high as one or 
two good horses. Their fishing nets are another article 
which is well constructed, formed of wild flax ; and in 
every particular like our scoop nets. 



RELIGION — 'BELIEF. 239 

As regards the religion of the Indians. I have already- 
stated that they believe in one God, in the immortality of 
the soul, and in future rewards and punishments. But 
while these are the prominent points of their belief, definite 
ideas of a religious nature appear to be extremely limited, 
both in number and in comprehensiveness. As much as 
this, however, appears to be true. They believe in one 
Great Spirit, who has created all things, governs all impor- 
tant events, who is the author of all good, and the only ob- 
ject of religious homage. They believe he may be dis- 
pleased with them for their bad conduct, and in his dis- 
pleasure bring calamities upon them. They also believe in 
an evil spirit, whom they call cinim keneki meclwt cinmo- 
cimo : that is, the black chief below, who is the author of 
all the evils which befall them, undeserved as a punish- 
ment from the Great Spirit above. They believe that the 
soul enters the future world with a similar form, and m 
circumstances like those under which it existed in this life, 
They believe that in a future state, the happiness of the 
good consists in an abundance and enjoyment of those 
things which they value here, that their present sources of 
happiness will be carried to perfection ; and that the pun- 
ishment of the bad will consist in entire exclusion from 
every source of happiness, and in finding all causes 0;f mis- 
ery here, greatly multiplied hereafter. Thus their ideas 
of future happiness and misery are found to vary according 
to their different situations and employments in life. It is 
difficult, if not impossible, to ascertain any thing of their 
religious belief beyond these general notions. The number 
of words and terms in their language expressive of abstract 
and spiritual ideas is very small, so that those who wish to 
instruct them in these subjects, are compelled to do it by 



240 WAR. 

means of illustrations and circumlocutions, and the intro- 
duction of words from foreign languages. Besides, con- 
scious of their ignorance, they are, for the most part, un- 
willing to expose it, by revealing the little knowledge which 
they possess. Indeed, wherever a feeling of ignorance up- 
on any subject prevails, we find that all endeavors to elicit 
the true amount of knowledge, are repelled or evaded. 
Even men of talents, with us, who converse fluently upon 
most subjects, are often silent when religious subjects are 
introduced. 

I am far from believing the many long and strange tra- 
ditions, with which we are often entertained. It is more 
than probable, that they are in most instances the gratui- 
tous offerings of designing and artful traders and hunters to 
that curiosity, which is ever awake and attentive to sub- 
jects of this description. The Indians themselves would 
often be as much surprised at the rehersal of these tradi- 
tions, as those are for whose amusement they are fabricated. 
My own opinion is confirmed by that of several gentlemen 
of integrity and veracity, who stand at the head of the Hud- 
son Bay Company, who have long been resident in the In- 
dian country, and have become extensively acquainted with 
their languages. 

The Indians west of the great chain of mountains, have 
no wars among themselves, and appear to be averse to 
them, and do not enter into battle except in self-defense, 
and then only in the last extremity. Their only wars are 
with the Blackfeet Indians, whose country is along the east 
border of the Rocky Mountains, . and who are constantly 
roving about in war parties, on both sides, in quest of plun- 
der. When the Indians on the west meet with any of these 
parties, they avoid an encounter if possible, but if compelled 



WAR VICES. 241 

to fight, they show a firm, undaunted, unconquerable spirit, 
and rush upon their enemies with the greatest impetuosity ; 
and it is said that one Nez Perce, or Flathead warrior, is a 
match for three Blackfeet. The only advantage which the 
latter have over the former consists in their numbers, there 
being more than twenty thousand of the Blackfeet Indians. 
When an enemy is discovered, every horse is driven into 
camp, and the women take charge of them, while every 
man seizes his weapons of war, whatever they may be, 
mounts his horse, and waits firm and undismayed to see if 
hostilities must ensue. If a battle cannot be avoided, they 
rush forward to meet their foes, throwing themselves flat 
upon their horses as they draw near, and fire, and wheel, 
and reload, and again rush full speed to the second encoun- 
ter. This is continued until victory is decided, which is as 
often by the failure of ammunition, as by the loss of men. 
Very frequently, when the Blackfeet see white men with 
the Nez Perces or Flatheads, they decline a battle, though 
far superior in numbers, knowing that the white men can 
furnish a large supply of ammunition ; and in such cases 
they will raise a white flag, and come in to smoke the pipe 
of peace. The Nez Perce or Flathead chief, on such an 
occasion, will say " we accept your offer to smoke the pipe 
of peace, but it is not in ignorance that your heart is war, 
and your hand blood, but we love peace. You give us the 
pipe, but blood always follows." 

But these Indians are not without their vices. Gambling 
is one of the most prominent, and is a ruling passion which 
they will gratify to the last extremity. It is much prac- 
ticed in running horses and foot races by men, women and 
children, and they have games of chance played with sticks 
or bones. When I told the Nez Perces that gambling is 



242 GOOD MORALS. 

wrong, and a violation of the tenth commandment ; for it 
is coveting the property of another, and taking it without 
an equivalent, as much as stealing ; they said they did not 
know it before, but now they know God forbids it they will 
do so no more. Theft is generally supposed to be inbred in 
the Indians, but I was pleased to discover that the tribes of 
the plains held it in abhorrence, and would punish it severe- 
ly should it occur. The Shoshones are said to be addicted 
to this habit in some degree. Drunkenness is a stranger vice 
among these nations, their remove from the sources of this 
evil being their security. It is not to be supposed that their 
virtue, any more than that of other tribes, would be invul- 
nerable if exposed to temptation, for this habit, like their 
proverbial love for finery and ornament, is acquired by 
the facilities for indulgence which are thrown in their way. 
The trader goes far into the interior with his packs of 
beads, buttons, paints, &c. to exchange for furs, and teach- 
es these ignorant people to set the same value on his articles, 
that their furs are intrinsically worth — but who supposes that 
they would not know the comparative worth of more useful 
goods, if they were offered them ?* 

The moral disposition of these Indians is very commend- 
able, certainly as much as that of any people that can be 
named. They are kind to strangers, and remarkably so to 
each other. While among them I saw no contentions, and 
heard no angry words from one to another. They manifest 
an uncommon desire to be instructed that they may obey 
and fulfil all moral obligations. Harmony and peace pre- 
vail in all their domestic concerns. But when they have 



* An attempt was made not long since, by an United States citizen, 
to construct a distillery on the Willamette river, but for want of suit- 
able materials he failed in his object. 



SUPERSTITIONS. 



243 



any difficult subject, which they know not how to dispose of, 
they go to their chiefs, and if it involves any important prin- 
ciple, the chiefs bring the case to any white man, who may 
be among them, to obtain his opinion, which is generally fol- 
lowed. They are scrupulously honest in all their dealings, 
and lying is scarcely known. They say they fear to sin 
against the Great Spirit, and therefore, have but one heart, 
and their tongue is straight and not forked. And so cor- 
rectly does the law written upon their hearts accord with 
the written law of God, that every infraction of the seventh 
command of the decalogue is punished with severity. 

I have witnessed but few things among them indicative of 
superstition. The practice of the Shoshones of cutting them- 
selves for the dead, I have already mentioned. The Carri- 
ers burn their dead. When a person dies, all the relations 
must be assembled, which often occupies many days ; and 
if a husband is deceased, the wife must lay her head upon 
the bosom of her husband every night, to show her affection 
for him ; and when the funeral pile is constructed, the corpse 
laid upon it, and the fire enkindled, during the burning of 
the body, she must frequently put her hands through the 
flame and lay them upon his bosom, to show her continued 
affection. Their first chief lost his wife. He was asked if 
he would show the affection for her, which was required of 
others. He thought on account of his chieftainship he might 
be excused. The people were urgent, and he consented, 
and so great was the pain which he endured, that he was 
willing the practice should be ameliorated, and it is hoped 
it will soon be abolished. » 

They have no unlucky days, but as a substitute for the 
white man's Friday, they have a portentous howling of a 
large wolf, which they call the medicine wolf. If they hear 



244 MEDICINE MEN. 

this when traveling, sadness is at once visible in their 
countenances, for it is considered as foreboding some ca- 
lamity near. 

Among their superstitions may be classed their mode of 
curing diseases. They have what are called medicine* men, 
who make no pretensions to any knowledge of diseases or 
skill in medicine ; but they have a bag in which are deposited 
various relics. The patient is stretched upon the ground ; 
a number of persons encircle him and sing the medicine 
song. The medicine man enters the circle and commences 
his magical incantations by holding the medicine bag over 
him, which is to operate as a charm ; he uses many ges- 
tures, grimaces, and inarticulate sounds ; pats or kneads 
the patient with his hands, beginning very softly, and grad- 
ually increasing to a considerable degree of severity ; blows 
into his ears, and practices other like ceremonies. By this 
process the patient is often much fatigued, and thrown into a 
free perspiration, and his imagination is much excited. When 
the friction has been sufficiently employed, the imagination 
well wrought upon, and the medicine bag has invisibly im- 
parted its virtues, the medicine man presents some trifling 
article, such as a small bone, a stick, a pebble, and says 
he has taken it from the body of the patient, and that it was 
the cause of the disease; or he gives a heavy puff upward, 
and says the disease has come out of the patient and gone 
upward, and then asks him if he does not feel better. The 
patient says yes ; for he certainly feels better in being reliev- 
ed from the process. And often the relief is permanent ; for 
the friction may have been beneficial, and the imagination 
often performs wonders. The medicine man stands respon- 

* Their word which we render medicine, as used by Indians, signi- 
fies any thing mysterious. 



STEAM BATH. 245 

sible for the life of his patient, and if the patient dies, not 
unfrequently his own life is taken by some of the relatives 
of the deceased. He makes a heavy charge for his servi- 
ces, often a horse, and why should he not ? for who in such 
cases would endanger his life without being well paid ? In 
some parts of the country, but more especially in the lower 
country, the lives of medicine men are short, and it would 
be supposed this would deter others from entering into the 
profession. But the love of fame and wealth is powerful 
among heathen as well as among civilized communities. 
Undoubtedly the medicine men, when they begin their pro- 
fession, know that they are practicing deception, but by hab- 
itual deceit, by the confidence others place in their skill, 
and by the effects produced through the medium of the im- 
agination, they finally believe in the efficacy of their own 
enchantments, and that they are consequential men. 

I have seen no " root doctors" in any tribe east or west 
of the mountains. The Indians, so far as I have had an 
opportunity of ascertaining, have but few diseases, and for 
the cure of these, they use but little medicine ; nor do they 
profess to have any knowledge of remedies beyond a few 
specifics. * 

The warm bath is used both by sick and healthy persons 

in the following manner. They construct a steam bath in 

the form of an oblong oven, two or three feet high, about 

six feet long, made of willow branches, each end inserted 

into the ground, forming an arch, which is covered with 

grass and mud, or more generally with skins. In this they 

place a number of hot stones, upon which they pour water. 

The person who is to go through the process, enters and is 

enclosed nearly air tight, and remains until a very profuse 

perspiration is produced, and often until nearly suffocated. 

22 



246 music. 

He then comes out and plunges at once into cold water, 
and no regard is paid to the season of the year, whether 
summer or winter. 

They are wholly destitute of the means of obtaining an 
education, and therefore are ignorant of all the sciences. 
In things with which they are conversant, such as appertain 
to hunting, war, and their limited domestic concerns, they 
manifest observation, skill, and intellect ; but beyond these 
their knowledge is very limited. They necessarily compute 
by numbers, but their arithmetic is entirely mental. It is 
an interesting fact, that of four different languages, which 
I examined, the mode of counting is by tens. 

The Klicatat nation count with different words up to ten, 
LaVs, one ; ?ieep , t, two ; and so to ten ; then they add ivap- 
pena to JaWs ; as latis wappena, eleven ; neepH wappena, 
twelve ; neepH tit, twenty ; and in like manner to one hun- 
dred, and so on to a thousand by hundreds. In the Nez 
Perce language, nox is one, lapeet, two, metait, three, &c. 
After ten they repeat the radical numbers with the addition, 
tit, as noxtit, eleven ; laaptit, twenty ; metaptit, thirty. This 
may be a sufficient specimen for the four languages, as the 
other two proceed in the same manner. 

They count their years by snows ; as, maika elaix, snows 
six, that is, six years ; and months by moons, and days by 
sleeps ; pinemeek pe-e-Iep, sleeps four, (four days.) It is not 
common that they know their exact age ; nor are they very 
accurate in chronology. 

They are very fond of singing, and generally have flexi- 
ble and sweet-toned voices. Most of their singing is with- 
out words, excepting upon some special occasions. They 
use hi, ah, in constant repetition, as we use fa, sol, la ; and 
instead of several different parts harmonizing, they only 



MUSIC. 



247 



take eights, one above another, never exceeding three. 
They are conscious of the inferiority of their tunes to 
ours, and wished to be instructed in this department of 
knowledge. In this land of moral desolations, it was 
cheering to hear even the most simple strains of melody 
and harmony. 



248 INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

The Indians of the lower country. 

The Indians of the lower country are those between the 
shores of the Pacific and the Falls of the Columbia river, 
and from Pugets Sound to Upper California. The principal 
nations are the Chenooks, the Klicatats, the Callapooahs, 
and the Umbaquas. These nations are divided into a great 
number of tribes, which have their respective chiefs, yet 
each nation has its principal chief, who is head over all the 
several tribes, and has a general superintending control. 
Their persons are rather below a middle stature, and not 
generally as well formed as the Indians of the plains or up- 
per country. The women are uncouth, and from a com- 
bination of causes appear old at an early age. Among 
these causes the habit of painting, in which they indulge, 
destroys the smooth and healthy appearance of the skin. 

These Indians appear to have less sensibility, both phys- 
ical and moral, than those of the upper country. Their 
dependence for subsistence being mostly confined to fishing 
and fowling, they are not so well supplied with clothing as 
the upper Indians, who hunt the buffalo, the elk, the ante- 
lope and other game. The lower Indians obtain some 
game, and clothing from the posts of the Hudson Bay Com- 
pany. I have often seen them going about, half naked, 
when the thermometer ranged between thirty and forty 
degrees, and their children barefooted and barelegged in 
the snow ; and yet when exposed to fatigue, they cannot 



INDIANS OP THE LOWER COUNTRY. s 249^ 

endure the intensity of the season as well as civilized people. 
I have noticed this, when I have had them employed in con- 
veying me any considerable distance in a canoe. Their 
taste and smelling are obtuse, rendered so by their filthy 
habits and contaminated food. But they are quick to catch 
correctly a distant sound, and remarkably keen-sighted, 
acquired by their habits of closely and carefully watching 
for game. These nations, from their mode of subsistence, 
being more stationary than those of the plains, have more 
durable and comfortable habitations, which are built of split 
plank, after the manner of Wanaxka's, near the falls of the 
Willamette, which I have described. Some of them indulge 
the fancy of making their doors like the face of a man, the 
mouth being the place of entrance. 

The lower Indians do not dress as well", nor with as good 
taste, as the upper. Their robes are much shorter, and are 
made of inferior materials ; such as deer skins with the hair 
on, and skins of hares and of squirrels. I saw many women 
of the poorer class, dressed in a short petticoat or skirt, 
made of cedar bark, or a species of strong grass twisted 
into strands, one end of which is secured in a girdle or band 
around the waist, while the other is suspended, knotted and 
fringed. These are a substitute for cloth, which they are 
too poor to obtain. The nations near the ocean, who have 
intercourse with sailors, and access to ardent spirits, are as 
degraded as those on our frontiers, and from- the same causes. 
By their communication with those who furnish them with 
the means of intoxication, and who have introduced kindred 
vices, they have become indolent and extremely filthy in their 
habits, and more debased than the beasts of the earth. How 
perfectly neat are the deer and the antelope ; how industri- 
ous the beaver and the bee ; how cleanly is the plumage 
22* 



250 INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 

of the bird ; how well adapted to repose are their habita- 
tions ; in a word, how different are all their habits, from 
those of fallen, polluted man. It is not the want of rational 
,)Owers, but their abuse by sin which has thus degraded 
him, and nothing but Christianity can bring him back to 
God, and the comforts and decencies of life. 

The want of moral instruction, the influence of bad ex- 
amples, and unrestrained licentiousness, have brought the 
lower Indians into a state of wretchedness, which will be en- 
x tailed upon future generations, and which nothing but the 
healing power of the gospel can ever eradicate. There 
are some exceptions, but not enough to save these remnants 
of once populous nations, if benevolence and humanity do 
not soon break their slumbers. It is to be hoped the mis- 
sionaries now in the field, by the blessing of God, will in- 
terpose a barrier to these sweeping desolations. 

In their religious belief, they do not materially differ from 
the upper Indians. While they believe in one Great Spirit, 
they in addition believe in subordinate spirits, or invisible 
agencies, to whom they ascribe much the same power as 
has been ascribed to witchcraft. We had a specimen of 
this, when the May Dacre was passing down the river in 
October. On the north side of the Columbia, near the con- 
fluence of the Cowalitz, there are some dark recesses in 
the basaltic rocks. An Indian chief on board warned Capt. 
L. not to approach those dark places; for they were the 
residence of bad spirits who would destroy the ship and all 
on board. Capt. L. purposely passed near the place; and 
the Indian was astonished that we escaped unhurt, and con- 
cluded there must have been some great " medicine" in the 
ship which defended us. They believe in the immortality 
of the soul, and that in the future state we shall have the 



INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 251 

same wants as in this life. Under the influence of this be- 
lief, the wife of Calpo, an influential chief of the Chenook 
village near Cape Disappointment, on losing a daughter in 
the year 1829, killed two female slaves to attend her to the 
world of spirits, and for the particular purpose of rowing 
her canoe to the far off happy regions of the south, where 
they locate their imaginary elysium. She deposited her 
daughter, with the two slain females by her side in a canoe, 
with articles of clothing and domestic implements. She 
was the daughter of Concomly, and a woman of distinguished 
talents and respectability, a firm friend of white men, and 
had more than once saved them from death. How dark was 
the mind of this talented woman, and how differently would 
she have conducted under the influence of divine revelation ! 
These Indians never mention the name of their relatives 
after they are dead. 

It is only in the lower country of the Oregon Territory, 
and along the coast that slavery exists. It was formerly 
practiced in the upper country, but was long since abolished. 
The Walla Walla tribe are descended from slaves formerly 
owned and liberated by the Nez Perce Indians. They per- 
mitted, as I have stated above, their slaves to reside and to 
intermarry in their families, and reasoning on the princi- 
ples of natural justice, they concluded that it was not right 
to hold in slavery their own descendants, and liberated them , 
and they are now a respectable tribe. 

Gambling is also practiced among the lower Indians, and 
carried to perfection. After they have lost every thing 
they possess, they will put themselves at stake ; first a hand, 
and if unsuccessful, the other ; after this an arm, and in the 
same manner, piece by piece, until all is lost except the head, 
and at last their head ; and if they lose this, they go into 



252 INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 

perpetual slavery. If civilized men will gamble, it is desi- 
rable they should carry gaming to the same perfection, for 
then they would cease to be pests in society ; and however 
different may be our sentiments upon the subject of slavery, 
in this we should generally be agreed, that such slaves 
would not deserve much commiseration. The Indians, how- 
ever, do not set their souls at the hazard of the game, as 
civilized gamblers do, when they imprecate the eternal 
vengeance of God upon themselves if they are not success- 
ful. The Indian gambles away his inalienable rights for 
time only. 

It is an universal practice to indulge in smoking, but they 
do it in a dignified manner. They use but little tobacco, 
and with it they mix freely a plant which renders the fume 
less offensive. It is a social luxury, and for its enjoyment 
they form a circle, using only one pipe. The principal 
chief begins by drawing three whiffs, the first of which 
he sends upward, and then passes the pips to the next per- 
son in dignity, and in like manner it passes around until it 
comes to the first chief again. He then draws four whiffs, 
the last of which he blows through his nose in two columns, 
in circling ascent, like a double-fiued chimney. While 
thus employed, some topic of business is discussed, or some 
exploit in the chase, or some story of the battle-field, is re- 
lated ; and the whole is conducted with gravity. Their 
pipes are variously constructed, and of different materials. 
Some of thern are wrought with much labor and ingenuity 
of an argillaceous stone, of very fine texture, of a blue black 
color, found at the north of Queen Charlotte's Island. It is 
the same kind of stone except in color, as that found upon 
the head waters of the Missouri, which is brick red. These 
stones, when first taken out of the quarries, are soft and 



INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 253 

easily worked with a knife, but on being exposed to the air, 
become hard, and are susceptible of a very good polish. 

The Indians in the lower country are more indolent than 
in the upper ; and the common motives for industry operate 
reversely from those in civilized communities. The more 
they can get for their labor, the less they will do ; the more 
they can get for an article in sale, the less they will bring 
into market. Their wants are but few, and when these 
are supplied, they will do no more. They have no dispo- 
sition to hoard up treasures, nor any enlarged plans to exe- 
cute, requiring expense and labor. If they have any par- 
ticular present want to supply, they will do what is suffi- 
cient to satisfy it, and make no further effort until urged by 
a returning necessity. To make them industrious and prov- 
ident, you must induce them to set a higher estimate upon 
the comforts of life, and show them that they are attainable, 
and that there is an increase of happiness growing out of 
industry ; and all this must be learned by experience, for 
abstract reasoning and theories are of no avail. An Indian 
may be taken abroad and instructed, and convinced of the 
advantages of civilization, but if sent back to his country 
alone, he will become discouraged, and return to his former 
habits. Missionaries, and practical farmers, and artisans, 
must go among them, and make it the business of their 
lives to do them good, and identify their own interests with 
theirs. Charging them with indolence, and insensibility, 
and cruelty, will never make them wiser or better. He is 
the true philanthropist, who, instead of passing by on the 
other side, goes to them, and does all in his power to raise 
them from their degradation, and bring them to God and to 
heaven. 

The Indians of the lower country, although less anxious 



254 INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 

to be instructed in the things of religion, than those of the 
upper country, express a readiness to receive instructors. 
I have not found among them, nor any Indians beyond the 
influence of frontier settlements, any thing like what has 
been stated to have taken place in other sections of our 
country : that they will listen to statements made by mis- 
sionaries, and give their assent to what is said as very good ; 
and then state their own theories of religion, expecting the 
same courteous assent in return. Neither have I seen any 
disposition manifested, to say that the Christian religion is 
good for white men, but as red men differ, they need a dif- 
ferent religion and mode of life. They have not yet been in- 
stigated by infidels to say such things. They are conscious 
of their ignorance of God and salvation, and of the various 
arts and sciences. While an indifference and apathy char- 
acterize some, which is discouraging, yet I know of no in- 
superable obstacles to their improvement. 

While gratitude is a general characteristic of Indians, 
they have in some cases their peculiar way of expressing 
it. An Indian had a son laboring for a long time under a 
lingering and dangerous complaint. Their medicine men 
had done all they could for him, but without success. The 
father brought his son to the hospital at Fort Vancouver, 
and earnestly desired to have him treated with care and 
with the best medical attendance. The sick son was re- 
ceived, and in about six months was restored to health. 
When his father came to take him home, he remarked to 
Dr. McL. " My son is a good boy, he has been with you a 
long time, and I think you must love him ; and now as he is 
about to leave you, will you not give him a blanket and 
shirt, and as many other small things as you think will be 
good ? We shall always love you." 



INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 255 

The lower Indians " make their medicine," in some par- 
ticulars, differently from those farther east. Their professed 
objects are to obtain present relief, if not a radical cure ; 
to make his exit more easy if the patient dies, and that his 
soul may be rendered capable of performing its journey to 
its far distant and happy country, and also to assuage the 
sorrow of surviving relatives. The process is simple, and 
occupies five or six hours. The patient is laid upon a bed 
of mats and blankets, sometimes a little elevated, and sur- 
rounded by a frame work. Two " medicine men" place 
themselves upon this frame, and commence a chant in low 
long-drawn tones, each holding a wand in his hand, three 
or four feet long, with which they beat upon the frame, 
keeping time with their tune. They gradually increase 
the loudness and the movement of their medicine song, with 
a correspondent use of their wand, until the noise becomes 
almost deafening, and undoubtedly often hurries the patient 
out of the world. During this time the near relations affect 
indifference to the condition of the sick person, lest their 
anxiety should counteract the influence of the charm, and 
they are generally employed about their common business, 
the women in making mats, baskets, and moccasons ; and 
the men loitering about, smoking, or conversing upon com- 
mon subjects. In some cases, especially if their confidence 
in the medicine man is small, they manifest much affliction 
and concern ; and in all cases after the person dies, they 
make great lamentation. 

I have already mentioned the practice of the lower na- 
tions of flattening their heads and piercing their noses. But 
another reported custom, of having pieces of sea-horse's 
tusks, or oval pieces of wood an inch and a half long and an 
inch wide, inserted into a hole in their upper lip, made for 



256 INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 

the purpose, is not correct in regard to any of the Indians 
in this section of country. Captain Beechy mentions it as 
a common practice from Norton's Island and northward ; 
which was noticed by Deshnow, as long ago as 1648, that 
this ornament was worn by men and women about Prince 
William's sound, and which custom, Captain B. says, is 
common the whole distance along the western shores of 
America, as far as California. I saw some specimens of 
this ornament, or rather deformity, which were worn by 
the natives at Millbank Sound. 

The wealth of the lower Indians is estimated by the num- 
ber of their wives, slaves, and canoes. Every Indian of any 
distinction takes as many wives as he is able to support, 
and his wealth is supposed to accord with the number. 
They are quite destitute of horses, and their almost only 
mode of traveling is in canoes ; for the forests are so dense 
that they are nearly impenetrable, and they do not construct 
any roads. As the upper Indians excel in horsemanship, 
so these excel in the management of canoes, which are un- 
commonly well made, and of various sizes, from twelve to 
thirty feet long ; the largest will carry as much as a good 
bateau, and are generally made of the fir tree. The 
bow and stern are raised high, so as to meet and ward off 
the boisterous waves, and the bow is sometimes decorated 
with figures of animals, and the upper edge of the canoe is 
ornamented with shells. Slaves are employed in propelling 
the canoes, but not exclusively ; for often the chiefs will 
perform their part of the labor, and the women are equally 
expert with the men. 

Their manufactures do not widely differ from those of the 
upper country, with the addition of hats and baskets of skil- 
ful workmanship, made of grass of superior quality, equal 



INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 257 

to the Leghorn. The native hats are a flaring cone. Their 
baskets are worked so closely as to hold water, and are 
often used for pails. Some of them are- interwoven with 
various colors and devices, fancifully representing men, 
horses, and flowers. 

The government of the Indian nations is in the hands of 
chiefs, whose office is hereditary, or obtained by some spe- 
cial merit. Their only power is influence ; and this in 
proportion to their wisdom, benevolence, and courage. 
They do not exercise authority by command, but influence 
by persuasion, stating what in their judgment they believe 
to be right and for the greatest good of their tribe or nation, 
or of any family or community. The chiefs have no pow- 
er of levying taxes, and they are so much in the habit of 
contributing their own property for individual or public 
good, that they are not generally wealthy. Their influence 
however is great ; for they rarely express an opinion or de- 
sire, which is not readily assented to and followed. Any 
unreasonable dissent is subdued by the common voice of 
the people. Probably there is no government upon earth 
where there is so much personal and political freedom, and 
at the same time so little anarchy ; and I can unhesitatingly 
say, that I have nowhere witnessed so much subordination, 
peace, friendship, and confidence as exists among the Indi- 
ans, in the Oregon Territory. The day may be rued, when 
their order and harmony shall be interrupted by any instru- 
mentality whatever. , 

There are exceptions, however, to the general fact of the 
good conduct of the chiefs and the respect which is given 
them. Cazenove, the first chief of the Chenook nationals 
one. He was a great warrior, and before the desolating 

sickness, which commenced in the year 1829, could bring 

23 



258 INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 

a thousand warriors into action. He is a man of talents, 
and his personal appearance is noble, and ought to represent 
a nature kind and generous ; but such is his character, that 
his influence is retained among his people more by fear 
than by affection. I saw him often, and several times at 
my room, while at Fort Vancouver. On Tuesday, Februa- 
ry 2d, I attended the funeral of his only son, the heir to his 
chieftainship, a young man who had lingered under a pro- 
tracted disease. Cazenove departed from the long estab- 
lished custom of his nation and fathers of depositing the 
dead in canoes, and had him buried in the cemetery of the 
Fort, in the decent manner of civilized people. He had the 
coffin made large for the purpose of putting into it clothing, 
blankets, and such other articles, as he supposed necessary 
for the comfort of his son in the world to which he was 
gone. Every thing connected with the ceremony of the 
interment was conducted with great propriety. I was not 
at the time furnished with an interpreter, but addressed 
those present who understood English. Cazenove expressed 
his satisfaction that an address was given, considering it a 
token of respect for his son ; and appeared solemn in his 
affliction, indulging tears only, and not any loud lamenta- 
tions. Had he conducted with equal propriety subsequently, 
he would have been worthy of commendation. But when 
he returned to his dwelling that evening, he attempted to 
kill the mother of this deceased son, who was the daughter 
of Concomly, and formerly the wife of Mr. McDougal. 
The chiefs say, that they and their sons are too great to 
die of themselves, and although they may be sick, and de- 
cline, and die, as others do, yet some person, or some evil 
spirit instigated by some one, is the invisible cause of their 
death ; and therefore when a chief, or chief's son dids, the 



INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 259 

supposed author of the deed must be killed. Cazenove, on 
this occasion, fixed on the mother of this son as the victim 
of his rage, notwithstanding she had been most assiduous in 
her attention to him, during his protracted sickness. Of 
his several wives, she was the most beloved, and his mis- 
guided mind led him to believe, that the greatei the sacri- 
fice, the greater the manifestation of his attachment to his 
son, and the more propitiatory to his departed spirit. She 
fled into the woods, and the next morning, when the gates 
were opened, came into this fort and implored protection. 
She was secreted here several days, until her friends at 
Chenook Bay heard of her situation, and came and secretly 
took her away. Some days after this, a woman was found 
killed by the hand of violence, and it was supposed to have 
been done by Cazenove or some one in his employ,. 



260 CONVERSATION WITH AN INDIAN, 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

Conversation with an intelligent Indian — meeting with Indians-— 
early and mild season — La Dalles Indians — their anxiety to receive 
the gospel — Nootka humming bird — number and location of the 
Indians in the lower country — Indians of the north— the agitated 
question — solitariness. 

A very intelligent and influential Indian from the Cas- 
cades called at my room, on the 8th of February, to en- 
quire about God. I endeavored to obtain from him his own 
system of religion. He said, he believed there is a God, 
and he supposed he made all things, but he did not know 
any thing more about him. I questioned him in regard to 
his belief of a future state, and what he expected would be- 
come of him when he died. He said he did not know. He 
supposed that he should have an existence after death, but 
did not know what it would be ; and wished me to tell him. 
I endeavored to enlighten his mind, and to unfold to him 
the great fundamental truths of God and eternity, and the 
way to be saved. He listened with attention, and appeared 
sober. He told me the Indians were growing better ; that 
they did not kill each other in wars as in times past; that 
they did not rob and steal as heretofore. I told him that 
was good, but to be saved they must repent and receive the 
Savior by faith, as the only hope for sinners. So benighted 
are the minds of these heathen, and so barren their lan- 
guage upon spiritual and invisible subjects, that I had to 
use such illustrations as I judged best adapted to convey 



LA DALLES INDIANS. 261 

truth to his mind, and I doubt not that he received some 
knowledge. 

The next day he called again, and wished me to take his 
children and teach them how to read and write, and to wor- 
ship God. I endeavored to explain to him the object of my 
tour, and that when I returned, I would use my influence to 
have others come and live among them. But he wanted 
me to continue with them and instruct them. And when I 
told him I must go, and endeavor to get several to come and 
teach in different tribes, he wished to know how many 
sleeps it would take me to go, and how many sleeps before 
others would come. I told him it would be a great number. 
He wished to know if it would be moons. I answered in 
the affirmative, and told him it would be at least two snows. 
He paused and looked sorrowful. His very look affected 
me ; he arose and went out. 

Sabbath, 14th. I attended service as usual in English. 
There were many Indians from the La Dalles who wished 
to know if they might be present. We told them there 
would not be sufficient room in the hall, but a few of their 
chiefs might attend, and after the English service I would 
meet with them ; which I accordingly did in the afternoon. 

They were punctual at the hour, and came in single file, 

the first-chief leading the way. When I prayed with them, 

they all kneeled down except two or three, and these were 

reprimanded by the chief for impropriety of conduct. As 

on other similar occasions, I endeavored to instruct them in 

the first principles of our revealed religion, to which they 

gave strict attention. The first chief, at the close of service 

wished to speak ; and on receiving permission, spoke a short 

time to his people, and then told me he had prayed much to 

the Great Spirit, and found his heart was no better, but 

23* 



262 EARLY SPRING. 

worse. He said, a white man gave them a flag, and told 
them to set it up on a pole, on Sundays, and meet and pray, 
sing their songs, and dance around the pole bearing the flag ; 
and that they had done so a long time. He wished to 
know if this was right.* I told him it was right to meet and 
pray, and sing, and talk about God, but to dance on the 
Sabbath was very wrong, and would offend God. I added 
farther, that they needed some person to teach them the 
right way to worship God and to be saved. He was affect- 
ed, and kneeled down and with tears in his eyes said, if you 
must go away, do send us some one to teach us the right 
way to serve God. We will now throw away what the man 
said to us about dancing. We will go to our people and 
tell them what you have said, and worship God as you have 
taught us. I never felt so much like weeping over the 
heathen, as on this occasion ; to see this poor benighted 
Indian chief upon his knees, with tears in his eyes pleading 
for some one to come and teach them the way to heaven. 
What a spectacle ! 

March 1st. We have many indications of the presence 
of spring. The mildness of the climate, and the soft tem- 
perature of the season west of the mountains, render it one 
of the most delightful portions of our continent. The wide 
and sudden extremes of heat and cold, to which the east- 
ern portions are subject, are almost unknown here, and 
while this is more agreeable, it is also more favorable to 
health. Those who have the charge of the farming estab- 
lishment at this place, have commenced sowing thus early 

* The reason assigned for including dancing in the services of the 
holy Sabbath, was the fear, that singing and praying without dancing, 
would not interest the Indians ; and to include it would not be so 
great a departure from their common practices, as to excite aversion 
to worship. 



MILD CLIMATE. 263 

their spring crops ; and the gardener is preparing his ground 
for the seeds. The grass in the yard begins to assume its 
beautiful, fresh green. The robin and blackbird have con- 
tinued here through the winter, and now, with some others 
of their feathered brethren, resume their cheerful warb- 
lings in the fields and groves. During the winter, the ther- 
mometer has not fallen below 22° Fahrenheit, and to this 
point only three days. At this date, it stood at sunrise, at 
.37° ; at noon, 46° ; and at sunset, at 44°. The rains through 
the winter have been less constant and heavy than I antici- 
pated ; and snow has fallen only ten days, sometimes in 
trifling quantities, and at no one time over the depth of six 
inches, and has remained on the ground only a few days. 
Some have supposed, that the genial climate of the Oregon 
Territory is attributable to the proximity of the great Pa- 
cific, shedding the influence of its soft winds far into the in- 
terior. But the fact is, that almost the only winds through 
the winter are easterly winds, consequently coming directly 
from the regions of perpetual snow. 

A number of the La Dalles Indians arrived to-day, who 
reside eighty miles distant. One of their chiefs stated to 
my friend Mr. T. that they had changed their mode of 
worship ; that they do not now dance on the Sabbath, as 
they used to do, but they meet and sing, and pray ; and 
that since they have been better acquainted with the way 
to worship God, He hears their prayers, and that now, 
when they and their wives and children are hungry, they 
pray for deer, and go out to hunt, and God sends them 
deer to satisfy their wants. It was interesting to know 
that they were disposed to practice, as well as listen to 
what is taught them. 

Sabbath, 13th. Besides the usual service in the hall in 



264 THE NOOTKA HUMMING BIRD. 

English, I met the Indians from the La Dalles, and endeav- 
ored to exhibit to them the great truths of the Bible. They 
listened with deep interest to what I said, and then enquired 
whether they might expect, after I should go away, that 
some one would come and teach them. I could not promise, 
but replied that I hoped it would not be more than two 
snows, before some one would be sent. They enquired if 
after one or two sleeps, I would let them come to my room 
and hear more about God. I agreed to meet them on 
Tuesday afternoon, and addressed them several succeeding 
times before their departure. 

It seems apparent to any observing Christian, that the 
present is the favorable time for the introduction of the 
gospel and civilization among the natives of this wide inte- 
rior. Soon the cupidity and avarice of men will make ag- 
gressions here, and the deadly influence of frontier vices 
will interpose a barrier to the religion which they now are 
so anxious to embrace and practice. Every circumstance 
combines to point out the time when this work should begin, 
and one of the most important is that these Indians are en- 
listed in favor of white men, and feel that their condition, in 
all respects, for this world, as well as the coming one, is 
better than their own. A well-established Christian influ- 
ence among these tribes, would surely be respected by those 
who otherwise would invade their rights, and deprive them 
of a home as dear to them as our own is to us.~ 

March 24th. The season is progressing in delightful 
mildness. Flowering shrubbery and plants are beginning 
to send forth their fragrance ; and the Nootka humming 
bird has arrived, and is seen darting from bush to bush, 
feeding upon the open flowers. This most splendid species 
is not known east of the mountains. The whole of the up- 



THE INDIAN NATIONS. 265 

per part of the body is rufous, the head greenish, the throat 
cupreous and metalloidal crimson, varying according to the 
incidence of light. The throat of this species resembles 
that of the common, except, that it is even more gorgeous 
in its colors, and in presenting the metallic feathers, forms 
a broad ruff in the inferior part of the neck, instead of being 
wholly a component part of the plumage. The swallows 
made their appearance on the 12th, and a new species of 
blue bird of uncommonly beautiful plumage, arrived on the 
14th. The swan, several species of geese, and the sand 
hill crane, are passing to the north for incubation. Their 
screaming notes are constantly heard, and in the night are 
not the most favorable to repose. 

Before leaving the lower country, it will be proper to 
present, in a connected view, the best information I have 
been able to obtain of the several nations, their locations, 
and numbers. There are several tribes, about whom my 
knowledge is too limited to make any definite statements. 
Among them are those about Pugets Sound, and the upper 
part of the Cowalitz ; also the Chiltz Indians, north of the 
mouth of the Columbia and Chealis rivers. And although 
I have seen many of the Klicatat nation, who reside at the 
north of the Cascades, yet I have not been able to learn of 
them any thing more definite, than that they are a large 
nation. The Chenook nation resides along upon the Co- 
lumbia river, from the Cascades to its confluence with the 
ocean, and though once numerous and powerful, now num- 
bers not more than fifteen hundred, or two thousand.* 



* My method of computing the number of persons in a nation, was 
to ascertain the number of their lodges, which usually contain but one 
family, and allowing five persons to constitute a family, which is a 
moderate estimate, the number of the nation is obtained : so that, by 



266 THE INDIAN NATIONS. 

The Calapooah nation are located south of the Chenooks, 
upon the Willamette river and its branches. They are di- 
vided into seventeen different tribes, under their respective 
chiefs, and number about eight thousand seven hundred and 
eighty persons, who speak the same language, radically, 
with only a little difference in dialect. They are scattered 
over a territory of two hundred miles north and south, and 
sixty east and west. Their country is uncommonly good. 

South of the Calapooah is the Umbaqua nation, residing 
in a valley of the same name. They are divided into six 
tribes ; the Sconta, Chalula, Palakahu, Quattamya, and 
Chasta. Their number is about seven thousand. South of 
this nation and north of California, there was a very power- 
ful nation called the Kincla, which before the year 1829, 
numbered four thousand warriors. But if they have been 
swept away by sickness, as the other nations of the lower 
country have, it is probable their whole number of men, 
women and children, would not now amount to more than 
eight thousand. 

Near the mouth of the Columbia, along the coast, are the 
Killamooks, who are numerous, but their numbers I could 
not ascertain. South of these, and at the mouth of the Um- 
baqua river, there are the Saliutla, and two other tribes, 
supposed to number 2000 persons. 

This estimate of the Indians, in the lower country, makes 
the number of those known, to be about twenty -five thou- 
sand. This is probably a low estimate. It may safely be 
concluded, from facts now collected, that there are, between 
the 42° and 47° north latitute, in what we term the lower 



this method of computation, the following estimate of Indians in and 
ahout the Oregon Territory, is not over-rated, but below the real num- 
ber. 



DUELING. 267 

country, as many as twenty -five thousand more, making 
fifty thousand, who probably at the present moment would 
gladly receive teachers. 

Gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Company gave the follow- 
ing statements of the numbers of Indians north of Pugets 
sound ; viz. at Millbank Sound, three tribes, numbering two 
thousand one hundred and eighty- six. At Hygana Harbor 
five tribes or bands, amounting to two thousand ninety-two. 
At Queen Charlottes Island, eleven tribes, numbering eight 
thousand six hundred persons. About Hanaga and Chat- 
ham Straits, there are nine tribes, containing six thousand 
one hundred and sixty persons. Making the whole number 
of inhabitants, at and about these places, between the 47° 
and 55° of north latitude, nineteen thousand thirty-eight. 
At Queen Charlottes Island there is a field of much promise 
for a missionary station, where the necessaries of life could 
be easily obtained, and for that high northern latitude, the 
climate is very mild. 

Their summer and winter residences are built of split 
plank, similar to those of the Chenooks. It is said they are 
well supplied with fish, fowl, oil, berries, and potatoes of 
superior quality and in great abundance ; and wild meat is 
sometimes obtained. Their dress is much the same as 
what has already been described. Polygamy prevails, and 
also slavery. They do not treat their slaves with as much 
kindness as the Indians in the lower country of the Oregon 
Territory treat theirs. When they kill their slaves, the 
loss of property is the only thing they regard. Sometimes 
when one chief becomes offended with another, instead of 
challenging him to a duel, he goes home and kills a num- 
ber of slaves, and challenges the other to kill as many. 
The challenged person, if he can, kills as many or more, 



268 THE M'KENZIE RIVER INDIANS. 

and notifies the challenger of the number ; and thus they 
proceed until one or the other gains the victory ; and the 
one who yields in this mode of combat ceases to be a gen- 
tleman. " The point of honor" with these barbarous gentry 
is fixed higher than in our Christian country, for here the 
life of one satisfies the powerful principle, but there, blood 
must flow profusely to quench the noble fire of high-minded 
revenge. They are not unfrequently engaged in wars, 
which are often very bloody. They are much addicted to 
gambling, and dancing ; and it is said they excel in sing- 
ing. The country is mountainous, and is generally covered 
with dense forests, consisting mostly of fir. 

On and about McKenzie river there are six tribes of In- 
dians, making a population of about four thousand two 
hundred and seventy-five. The climate is very cold and 
unpleasant ; but uninviting as it is, the Hudson Bay Com- 
pany have found men who are willing to reside there in suf- 
ficient numbers to make six establishments, for the purpose 
of obtaining the peltries which the Indians collect. Their 
principal establishment, which is Fort Simpson, is on the 
upper part of the river and is a place of much resort for 
the Indians. 



March 26th. Rode down once more to the lower plains, 
as they are called, and was delighted with the freshness of 
the wheat fields, which are beginning to wave in the gentle 
breezes, and the forest trees are beginning to show their 
leaves, and the plants their flowers. The sea fowl, which 
through the winter covered these fields, are gone to their 
summer residences, and the little feathered tribes are tuning 
their notes, so full of melody. 



THE AGITATED QUESTION. 269 

The question, to whom does this country belong, has 
been, and is becoming still more a question of general in- 
terest, both in Great Britain and the United States. The 
aboriginal population claim it as their own, and say, they 
merely permit white men to reside among them. Before 
the first discovery of the noble river, which in itself and 
its branches waters almost the whole territory, these na« 
tives had undisputed possession. But their claim is labori- 
ously, extensively, and practically denied ; for authorities, 
both of written law, and the opinion of living judges and 
expositors of law, sanction the principle that " unsettled 
habitation is not true and legal possession, and that nations 
who inhabit fertile countries and disdain or refuse to culti- 
vate them, deserve to be extirpated. 55 It is made, then, a 
question of enquiry, whose claim to this region is best es- 
tablished 1 Our government claim exclusive dominion 
against any foreign power, of all the country lying between 
the 42nd and 49th degrees of north latitude, by treaties with 
nations who claim possessions contiguous, and who have 
relinquished their claims to the country included in the 
above parallels of latitude, except Great Britain ; by the 
discovery of the principal river by Capt. Gray of the ship 
Columbia, the 14th of May, 1792 ; and by interior explor- 
ation. Great Britain claims the Columbia river for her 
southern boundary, by right of discovery. Capt. Brough- 
ton, of the ship Chatham, having ascended the river with 
two boats, as far as where Fort Vancouver is now situated, 
took possession of the river and country in the name of his 
Britannic Majesty, on the 31st of October, 1792. Capt. 
Broughton was associated with Capt. Vancouver of the ship 
Discovery, on a voyage of discovery in the north Pacific, and 

around the world. The possession was taken in his Bri- 

24 



270 THE QUESTION. 

tannic Majesty's name in due form. A friendly old chief, 
who did not understand a word of their language, nor they 
a word of his, was invited to join in the ceremonj', and to 
drink his Majesty's health. Captain Broughton says the chief 
appeared much pleased with the transaction. But it may 
be a subject of enquiry, with which the old friendly chief 
was best pleased, with the rum he drank On the occasion, 
or with the ceremony which was so full of import. And 
farther, did the chief, by partaking of his Majesty's rum and 
joining in the ceremony, cede all this country to be the bo- 
na Jide property of a foreign nation ? Still Great Britain 
" does not set up any claim of exclusive jurisdiction or sov- 
ereignty therein, and denies the claim of the United States 
to any such sovereign jurisdiction," but professes to claim 
for its subjects the right of joint occupancy, indefinitely de- 
ferring the settlement of the question of exclusive dominion. 
But these intricate questions, so often asked, I leave to 
learned diplomatists to decide, after confessing that I am 
not able to discover why the nations who have, from time 
immemorial, occupied this country, and who, like other na- 
tions, have their territorial limits tolerably well denned 
among themselves, should not still possess the domain which . 
our common Creator and Benefactor has kindly given them. 
It is a subject of increasing regret to every true friend of 
humanity, that unless the rapacious and acquisitive spirit, 
which urges, our nation to appropriate these western territo. 
ries, shall be restrained by the providence of God, these In- 
dian nations will be compelled to yield their lands, their 
rights, and their lives to the merciless invaders of their 
country. Is there such rectitude in power, and such virtue 
in civilization, as to prove that the bounties of divine provi- 
dence were never designed to be permanently possessed by 



REFLECTIONS. 271 

the defenseless and untaught, and that they are inevitably 
doomed to extinction by the hands of enlightened and pow- 
erful men ? The history of the past, and the operation of 
present causes, show that as soon as the Indians shall be 
induced to sell and cede the best portions of their country, 
there being no farther west to which they can be removed, 
the Indian race must expire, and in vain will the voice of 
humanity enquire, what has become of the aborigines of this 
country. 

The time has arrived when I expect to resume the work 
of further exploration. The weeks and months which I 
have spent here have fled rapidly away, while I have been 
feebly endeavoring during the winter to benefit the people 
of the fort, and the Indians ; and to embrace all the oppor- 
tunities that should present, to collect information in those 
particulars which pertain to the direct object of my tour. 
I shall wander for a length of time, yet future, among the 
wild scenes of nature, which have so gratified and delighted 
me in traversing the wilderness of forest and prairie ; but 
my heart looks back to a variety of interesting scenes of 
civilized life and cultivated society in my own far distant 
land, and I ardently desire to see the wide region before me 
brought under the same beauty and cultivation. All the 
social affections of our nature strongly desire the happiness, 
which refined and Christian society and its concomitant 
blessings can alone give. A feeling of solitariness, and of 
desolation comes over the mind as you stand on the banks 
of the noble Columbia, and perhaps for weeks, it may be 
for months, no whitened sail becomes visible to the gaze of 
your watching eye. At length a ship enters its waters, and 
the Indians hasten fifty miles to tell you that the white 
man's great canoe, with its three upright sticks, is on its 



272 LIBERALITY. 

way, to bring a new supply of blankets, beads, and tobacco. 
The most unimportant incidents become interesting events, 
where so much monotony exists. 

Monday, 11th April. Having made arrangements to 
leave this place on the 14th, I called upon the chief clerk 
for my bill. He said the Company felt a pleasure in gra- 
tuitously conferring all they have done, for the benefit of 
the object in which I am engaged. In justice to my own 
feelings, and in gratitude to the honorable Company, I 
would bear testimony to their uniform politeness and gene- 
rosity ; and while I do this, I would express my anxiety 
for their salvation, and that they may be rewarded in spir- 
itual blessings. In addition to the civilities I had received 
as a guest, I had drawn upon their store for clothing, for 
goods to pay my Indians, whom I had employed to convey 
me in canoes in my various journeyings, hundreds of miles ; 
to pay my guides and interpreters ; and upon their provis- 
ion store for the support of these men while in my employ. 



DEPASTURE FOR THE UPPER COUNTRY, 273 



CHAPTER XIX. 

Departure for the upper country — American hunters — geology at the 
Cascades — Indian honesty — escape in a dangerous gale — the Falls 
a favorable location for a missionary station — tender sympathy — 
famished Indians— arrival at Walla Walla — interesting meeting of 
Indians — opportunity to give them religious instruction — a walk — 
the nutritious quality of prairie grass. 

April 14th. Having exchanged farewells with the gen- 
tlemen of the fort, whose kindness I shall ever remember, I 
took passage in a canoe of an Indian chief belonging to the 
La Dalles. Our company consisted of the chief and his 
daughter, another Indian who took the bow, a half-blood 
named Baptiste who took the stern, and two white men, 
who, with the chief, helped to propel the canoe, making 
seven persons. These, with the baggage of several hun- 
dred weight, loaded the frail craft so heavily, that its sides 
were only about seven inches above water. This, upon a 
river averaging about a mile in width, with many rapids, 
and subject to winds, was not a pleasant undertaking. But 
at this season of the year, when the Indians are about to 
commence fishing, another canoe could not be obtained. 

We proceeded up the river about twelve miles, to what 

are called the upper plains on the north' side of the river, 

and encamped. This is a rich and beautiful prairie of some 

mires in circumference, and J at this early part of the spring 

was covered with a coat of fresh green grass five or six 

inches high. A little back from the river, there is a beau- 

24* 



274 



THE CASCADES. 



tiful lake, the resort of water fowl, which' are seen exhibit- 
mg their unsullied plumage ; and in the rear are forests of 
fir, whither the deer, which crop the grass of the prairie, flee, 
when they see men ascend the river's bank. A gathering 
storm rendered the night dark, cold, and dreary ; for as yet 
no friendly habitations are reared upon these fertile fields 
for the resort and comfort of man. 

The rain continuing with some wind, we did not decamp 
on the morning of the 15th, until a late hour; after which 
we passed up into the mountainous part of the country be- 
low the Cascades, and encamped near the high Pillar rock 
which I have mentioned. Soon after leaving our encamp- 
ment this morning, we met Captain W. with a small com- 
pany of men in two canoes lashed together, on their way to 
Fort William upon Wappatoo Island. They were wet with 
the rain of the morning ; and their meagre countenances 
and tattered garments did not speak much in favor of the 
happiness of mountain life, or indicate that they had found 
the hunter's elysium. But they were in good spirits and 
passed merrily on their way. 

The basaltic rocks which wall up the shores, in some 
places two and three hundred feet perpendicular, and in this 
place for miles, do not lose in interest by review. For more 
than half a mile the columnar basalt presented the regular 
pentagons. Near these, where the shore was inaccessible, 
we found a deer almost exhausted with swimming in the 
cold water. Its helpless condition and its mild, large black 
eye, excited by fear, pleaded for the exercise of humanity ; 
but our men, instead of rendering it that assistance which it 
needed, shot it, and stained the pure water of the river 
with its blood. I could not help feeling a sympathy for this 
poor, beautiful animal. 



INDIAN HONESTY. 275 

While the men, on the morning of the 16th, were engaged 
in taking the canoe up the rapids and the Cascades, I-' walked 
five miles, sometimes along the shore of the river, and some- 
times climbing over precipices ; and so laborious was the 
task to get the canoe above all the rapids and falls, that it 
occupied most of the day, giving me time for examining the 
scenery around. Almost every variety of volcanic pro- 
duction was seen, but basalt and amygdaloid predominated. 
Large quantities of petrified wood were scattered along the 
shores, some of which preserved its natural appearance ; 
but the large blocks, when broken, presented the appear- 
ance of mineral coal. The scenery around is grand ; yet 
such was the misty state of the atmosphere about the tops 
of the mountains, which were at this time covered with snow, 
and the dullness accompanying, that the enjoyment was 
less than it would have been under other circumstances. 
After having finished the portage by the Cascades, we 
launched out upon the gentle current above, and proceeding 
up the river two miles, encamped upon the north side. 
Several Indians came to our encampment and manifested a 
kind and sociable disposition. They told us that Captain 
W. the day before, in cordelling his canoes down the Cas- 
cades, had lost one, and with it baggage, of which they had 
found some articles, which they would deliver to him when he 
shouldagain pass this way. The Indians are coming in from 
their winter retreats, and are engaged in catching sturgeon. 

The 17th being the Sabbath, we did not remove. It was 
a rainy day, and in the forenoon the rain came down in 
torrents, which is common about these mountains through 
the rainy season of the year. We were not able to make a 
fire for preparing food, until after twelve o'clock, when the 
storm began to abate. 



276 DANGEROUS GALE. 

On Monday the weather was more pleasant, and we made 
very good progress up the river, through a country of di- 
versified, scenery. Though less mountainous than about 
the Cascades, yet here were mountains of interesting forms ; 
one was almost a perfect cone, a thousand feet high, rising 
at an angle of 45 degrees, beautifully smooth and covered 
with grass. We passed, a few miles above this a bluff 
presenting a perpendicular semicircle, with fissures reg- 
ularly radiating from the centre of the diameter. In dif- 
ferent places there were red hills of the color of well-burnt 
brick. We encamped on the north side of the river, upon 
a pleasant spot just above a small Indian village, where we 
found a good supply of dry wood, which added to our com- 
fort and convenience. 

A wind which blew very fresh through the night, abated 
on the morning of the 19th, and we proceeded' on our way 
with a gentle breeze, before which we spread a sail made 
of a blanket. The wind continued to increase until the 
middle of the day, which rendered navigation rather danger- 
ous. We came to a large bend in the river, and to save the 
distance of coasting around, the men who rowed wished to 
pass over to the south side of the river, which was here 
more than a mile wide. This seemed a dangerous experi- 
ment, because the wind and waves were too high for our 
deep-laden canoe ; but as they were anxious to save labor, 
I did not persist in my objections. We had not passed 
more than halfway across, before the increasing wind raised 
waves which rolled and broke three times as high as our 
canoe, and threatened to overwhelm us. At length the men 
were not able to keep the canoe headed across the waves, 
and it turned sideways to them. It seemed that nothing 
short of a miraculous providence could save us. But by 



EXTRAORDINARY ESCAPE. 277 

much exertion and some abatement of the wind, we again 
got the canoe upon our course, and obliquely across the 
waves, and safely arrived at the south shore. But our 
greatest danger was yet before us. After coasting a few 
miles along the south shore, we came to a promontory call- 
ed Cape Horn, a name given it on account of the dangers 
of passing. It is of volcanic formation, rising, as I after- 
wards found by measurement, two hundred feet perpendic- 
ular upon the water's edge, extending about a mile in lengthy 
and the lower part projecting several hundred feet into the 
river. The wind had so far lulled, that we did not appre- 
hend any danger in passing it, but when we had doubled 
the Cape, the wind drew around and increased to a gale. 
The foaming, breaking waves ran high, and we could not 
return against the wind, and to go forward against the cur- 
rent was to add to the danger of being filled, or dashed 
against shoreless rocks. Such was the force of the wind, 
and such the efforts of the men to keep the canoe across the 
waves and away from the rocks, that in the same instant of 
time, the bowman and steersman both broke their paddles, 
and the sail was torn away from the left fastening, and 
whirled over to the righf side of the canoe. It seemed 
that all hope was gone. There were only three paddles re- 
maining, two of which were immediately put it into the 
hands of the steersman and bowman. It was impossible to 
return, and to make progress against the current with only 
such means, appeared equally impracticable. A watery 
grave seemed inevitable ; but by the protecting mercy of 
God, when the waves broke, it was just without the canoe. 
It was necessary to our safety to be collected and fearless, 
and we cleared the sail, and gave orders as though no dan- 
ger was near. Contrary to our highest expectations, we 



278 LA DALLES. 

continued to make headway up the river, assisted probably 
by one of those large eddies, which abound in this river, 
until we came to a bay with a sandy shore, where we safe- 
ly moored our frail barque, and waited until the winds and 
weather became more favorable. 

After the wind had somewhat abated, Indians came to us 
from the opposite shore, of whom we bought paddles, and 
being again equipped for our voyage, we proceeded up the 
river to the La Dalles, and as fkr through them as we could 
safely go. Here" we landed and encamped on the north 
shore, and a number of Indians soon came to us, whom we 
engaged to carry us with horses, to the navigable water 
above the Falls. Near this was a very large eddy, where, 
two years previously, nine men were drowned. Their 
bateau was drawn into it and capsized, and only one man 
escaped, which he effected by clinging to a bag containing 
some empty kegs. He was carried a few miles down the 
river, and then taken up by Indians who were passing in a 
canoe. 

The 20th was occupied in passing the La Dalles and the 
Falls, above whichwe encamped. This place affords a fa- 
vorable location/or missionaries. The Indians resort here 
in large numbers for fishing, and remain usually through 
the summer, and some of them through the year. An in- 
tercourse would be always open with surrounding tribes, 
and facilities would be at hand both to disseminate the 
truths of the gospel, and to obtain the means of comfortable 
subsistence. 

As soon as we were encamped, the Indians, who are here 
in great numbers preparing for fishing, came around us and 
their first enquiry was for pi pi, (tobacco.) I am much dis- 
gusted with this noxious plant, and am resolved no longer 



CALL AT AN INDIAN LODGE. 279 

to consider it necessary to conciliate the Indians by smo- 
king the friendly pipe. If an Indian is suffering with hun- 
ger and nakedness, his first request is for tobacco. As we 
had parted with the Indians who came with us from Fort 
Vancouver, we here engaged two others to assist us as far 
as Walla Walla. 

On the 21st, we took a bateau which we found here, and 
progressed slowly up the river against the current and fre- 
quent rapids. On the morning of the 22d, while encamped, 
and the men were making preparation for breakfast, I ram- 
bled into a little village in the neighborhood, and called at 
a lodge, whose inmates consisted of an aged woman, a 
younger one, and four little girls. I addressed them in the 
Chenook language, but they did not understand me. Being 
tolerably familiar with the language of signs, I enquired 
whose were those children. The younger woman signified 
that three of them were hers, but the eldest was an orphan, 
whom she had adopted for her own ; and in the most pa- 
thetic manner she proceeded to relate her history, but little 
of which was intelligible. The aged matron sitting on the 
ground of her movable lodge, with her head reclining upon 
her hand, occasionally introduced a few sentences to aid 
the narration ; and so sad and affecting was the whole ac- 
cent and sound of their voices, that I freely sympathized 
with them, and nodded my assent to all they said. I re- 
gretted the necessity which compelled me to leave them 
without being able to point them to Him, who is touched 
with the feelings of our infirmities, and who binds up the 
broken in heart. I thought, as I walked slowly back to my 
breakfast, how little of the savage character was exhibited 
by these females, and on the contrary, how these amiable 
sensibilities would have done honor to any civilized society, 



280 FAMISHED INDIANS. 

Our encampment on the 24th, was on the south side of 
the river, at a place of great resort for the Indians, but they 
had not come in from their winter retreat. There were 
many canoes drawn up at a short distance from the shore, 
and left without any apprehensions of their being stolen, 
showing the confidence the Indians have in each other's 
honesty. They do not need guards, nor bolts and bars, 
and prisons. 

To secure ourselves from a strong, cold wind, we selected 
a place densely covered with wild broom corn of last year's 
growth yet standing, and in the rear of willows which here 
skirted the shore of the river. Two Indians came to our 
encampment, who were as miserable objects as I have seen. 
They were not more than half covered with tattered skins 
of rabbits patched together ; and were emaciated with star- 
vation. To relieve the sufferings of such objects of pity, 
the traveler needs to carry with him a store of clothing and 
provisions. It is distressing to see them, without having 
the means of furnishing them substantial relief. 

On the 25th, we made slow progress against the strong 
current with our poorly manned bateau, and failing of arri- 
ving at Walla Walla as we had hoped, encamped under 
the high basaltic rocks, where we found a small spot of soil 
furnishing some wood. The next morning we arrived at 
the fort, where I met at the landing a number of Nez Perce 
Indians waiting my arrival. I felt much satisfaction in 
seeing them, and in witnessing their tokens of affection. It 
was like meeting old friends ; and there appeared to be so 
much unfeigned pleasure in the reception they gavo me, 
that it inspired the hope, that the disposition they express 
to learn the way of salvation is based on a foundation more 
permanent than novelty. I had told a band of the Cayuse 



FULFILMENT OF PROMISE. 281 

Indians, on my way down the river last October, that I would 
meet them here in the spring, and inform them about God 
and the way to worship him. Many of them were here, 
ready to attend to the fulfilment of my promise, and un- 
doubtedly my arrival at the appointed time, confirmed their 
confidence. 

As the season is yet early, I judged it expedient to con- 
tinue here a week or two, and improve such opportunities 
as might offer for instructing the Indians residing near this 
place, and those who might come from more remote places ; 
making the best use of such facilities as can be obtained, 
without waiting for the thorough knowledge of their lan- 
guage, which the prudence of some persons would consider 
indispensable to the commencement of teaching them the 
way of eternal life. Their anxious curiosity to know what 
the religion of the Bible is, cannot be kept awake while its 
gratification is postponed. The danger that delay will re- 
sult in indifference or disgust, is as great as that an early 
attempt to impart instruction may be connected with imper- 
fections. 

During my continuance in this place, I preached on the 
Sabbath morning to the white people belonging to the fort, 
and in the afternoon to the Indians of the Cayuse, Walla 
Walla, and Nez Perce tribes. They always gave good at- 
tention, and some appeared to be much interested. An in- 
stance of opposition to the truths of the gospel occurred 
here, proving the truth of the scriptures, that the Savior 
is set for the fall and rising of those who hear. A chief 
of the Cayuses, who several times came to hear, disliked 
what was said about a plurality of wives. He said he would 
not part with any of his ; for he had always lived in sin, 

and was going to the place of burning, and it was too late 

25 



282 A WALK GRAND SCENERY. 

for him, now he was getting old, to repent and be saved ; 
and as he must go to that place, he would go in all his sins, 
and would not alter his life. Those who are familiar with 
the various methods to which sinners resort, to avoid the 
convictions of truth and conscience, may see in his deep ha- 
tred to holiness, that the operation of sin is the same in 
every unsanctified heart. This is the only instance of open 
opposition, that I witnessed among the Indians ; nor does 
it characterize the Cay use tribe. They very much resem- 
ble the Nez Perces in their peaceable disposition, and desire 
to be instructed, and present in connection with the Walla 
Wallas, a promising field of missionary labor. 

May 3d. I walked down to the passage of the Colum- 
bia through the basaltic mountain, two miles below the fort, 
to take a more particular view of the scenery, than can be 
obtained in a hasty passage on the river. I ascended the 
mountain, from the top of which I had a fine prospect of the 
country around, opening in every direction as far as the eye 
could reach. All parts were covered with the fresh green 
of spring vegetation. Very few forests were to be seen in 
any direction, excepting upon the Blue Mountains at the 
south, and these, instead of the fresh hues presented by for- 
ests at this season, were softened by the distance to a hazy 
blue. Even at this distance, the perpetual snows of Mount 
Hood, could be distinguished at the west ; and at the north- 
west Mount Rainier near Pugets Sound ; and at the north 
and the east various parts of scattered mountains. After 
some time employed in looking around upon the vast ex- 
panse, I approached the perpendicular walls, between which 
the Columbia descends, which are about three hundred feet 
high, as I ascertained by the number of seconds occupied in 
the descent of large stones, projected from the brink of the 



PRAIRIE GRASS. 283 

precipice, which I distinctly heard when they struck upon the 
shore below. I found a great variety of scoria and lava, 
the latter varying much in color and density, some of it suf- 
ficiently porous and light to swim upon water. Two thirds 
of the way down this deep channel, are two high eminences 
called the Pillars, to which, by a circuitous route, I de- 
scended. They stand upon conical bases, eighty or a hun- 
dred feet high above the river ; and above these bases rise 
nearly a hundred feet perpendicular. They are indeed re* 
markable ; but there are so many singular formations in 
this volcanic country, that curiosities become common. I 
returned, though much fatigued with my long walk over 
prairies, precipices, and mountains, yet gratified with the 
examination of the works of nature. 

My horses and mule, which I had left with the Nez Perce" 
Indians, were kept in their country, one hundred and thirty 
miles east of this place, and were in April brought into this 
neighborhood. To-day, May 5th, they were caught and 
brought to the fort. I was surprised to End them in fine 
order, with new coats, and in high spirits. They had run 
out on the prairies without any shelter from the storms, and 
with no food, except what the remains of the previous sum- 
mer's growth afforded, together with the early grass of spring. 
Who would have supposed, considering their worn down 
condition, when- I left them in October, that with no other 
fare they would have fattened during the winter. This 
fact shows the superior mildness of the climate, and the nu- 
tritive quality of prairie grass, even after dried up with the 
summer drouth. Another evidence of the truth of this re- 
mark may be seen in the condition of the cattle kept at this 
fort. With nothing more to feed upon than what they find 
upon the prairies, they are now not only in good order, but 



284 HIGH WIND. 

some of them are actually fat, and in as good condition for 
market, as oxen driven from the stalls of New England. 

I rode to-day with Mr. P. ten miles up the river to the 
confluence of the Lewis, or as it is called, the Nez Perce* 
river, with the Columbia. They are both noble streams ; 
the Columbia is nearly three-fourths of a mile, and the 
Nez Perce a half mile wide. The prospect around is de- 
lightful ; the soil is good, as is evidenced by the fresh verdure 
which is springing up luxuriantly, at this early season. A 
large band of horses belonging to a Walla Walla chief, are 
feeding here. It is a curious fact, that the Indian horses 
do not often stray from the place where they are left ; habit, 
however produced, is as good a safeguard as inclosurcs. 
Along upon the shores of the river, I found specimens of 
calcedony and cornelian. 

The sixth Mas a very warm day, the thermometer stand- 
ing at noon, at 84°. Distant thunder was heard, which is 
an unfrequent occurrence west of the great mountains. 
Towards and through the night the wind blew very strongly, 
and shook the bastion which I occupied, so that it seemed 
as if it would be prostrated to the earth ; but such wind in 
this particular section of country is common. 

During the time of my continuance here, I had more 
frequent opportunities to address the Indians, and in greater 
numbers, than I had anticipated. From the promise that 
the word of God shall not return void, but shall accomplish 
that whereunto it is sent, may not the hope be indulged, that 
some good fruits will be the result of these labors. The 
Walla Walla tribe, though the descendents of emancipated 
slaves, are not inferior to other tribes, and are treated with 
the same respect. 



JOURNEY TO THE NEZ PERCE COUNTRY. 285 



CHAPTER XX. 

Journey to the Nez Perce" country — funeral of a child — natural see- 
nery — worship on the Sabbath — return to Walla Walla — industry of 
the Indians- -battle ground — practice of smoking — journey to Col- 
vile. 

In company with several Nez Perce Indians who had 
come down from their own country to escort me, I com- 
menced my journey on the ninth, and pursued the same 
route by which I came last autumn. Nothing eventful 
marked our way, and we arrived at the Snake or Lewis 
river, the evening of the eleventh, where we found several 
lodges of the Nez Perces, who gave us a very cordial re- 
ception, and a warm-hearted shake of the hand, the com- 
mon expression of Indian friendship. The night of our ar- 
rival a little girl, about six or seven years of age, died, and 
on the morning of the twelfth they buried her. Every thing 
relating to the burial was conducted with great propriety. 
The grave was only about two feet deep ; for they have no 
spades, and a sharpened stick was used to loosen the earth, 
and this was removed with the hands ; and with their hands 
they filled up the grave after the body was deposited in it. 
A mat was laid in the grave, then the body wrapped in its 
blanket, with the child's drinking cup and spoon made of 
horn ; then a mat of rushes spread over the whole, and filled 
up, as above described. In this instance they had prepared 
a cross to set up at the grave, most probably having been 

told to do so by some Iroquois Indians, a few of whom I saw 
25* 



286 NATURAL SCENERY. 

west of the mountains, not in the capacity of teachers, but 
as trappers in the employ of the fur companies. One grave 
in the same village had a cross standing over it, which, to- 
gether with this, were the only relics of the kind I saw, du- 
ring my travels in the country. But as I viewed a cross 
of wood of no avail, to benefit either the dead or the living, 
and far more likely to operate as a salvo to a guilty con- 
science, or a stepping-stone to idolatry, than to be understood 
in its spiritual sense to refer to a crucifixion of our sins, I 
took this, which the Indians had prepared, and broke it in 
pieces. I then told them that we place a stone at the head 
and foot of the grave, only to mark the place ; and without 
a murmur, they cheerfully acquiesced, and adopted our 
custom. 

As we proceeded up the river to the confluence of the 
Coos-coots-ke, on account of the high water, we had to pass 
over the huge precipices of basalt, at the foot of which we 
traveled down last fall, and which I have mentioned. We 
were compelled often to approach very near the brink, where 
it seemed as if we were almost suspended over the dizzy depth 
of three hundred feet. We arrived at the Coos-coots-ke early 
in the afternoon of the third day after leaving Walla Walla, 
making the distance about 120 miles. The whole country 
had put on the loveliness of spring, and divested itself of 
the dreariness of winter, and the grandeur of the mountain 
scenery appeared to rise before me with new freshness and 
delight. The Indians are assembling in great numbers 
from different and distant parts of the country, to enquire 
about the religion that is to guide them to God and heaven ; 
and which they also think has power to elevate them in the 
scale of society in this world, and place them on a level 
with intelligent as well as Christian white men. 



THE OPHTHALMY. 287 

On the north of the confluence of these two rivers, and 
down the Nez Perce river, the country is diversified with 
hills and mountains of a great variety of forms, from five 
hundred to two thousand feet high. The volcanic and ar- 
gillaceous strata are generally horizontal, but in some places 
thrown into various degrees of inclination, from horizontal 
to perpendicular ; in other places curved or waving. They 
have all the regularity of works of art, raised up by human 
skill ; and why should not the power and skill of an Omnip- 
otent hand be acknowledged in these stupendous works ? 

After having been several months where the Indians of 
the lower country came daily under my observation, the 
contrast between them and these with whom I am now, is 
very noticeable. The former are more servile and abject, 
both in their manners and spirit ; while the latter are truly 
dignified and respectable in their manners and general ap- 
pearance, far less enslaved to their appetites, or to those 
vices whose inevitable tendency is to degrade. They know 
enough to set some estimate upon character, and have much 
of the proud independence of freemen ; and are desirous of 
possessing a consequence in the estimation of other people, 
and for this reason, wish to be taught, and they receive any 
instruction with remarkable docility. 

Saturday, May 14th. Very many of the natives are 
coming in for the purpose of keeping the Sabbath with me ; 
but as I have little prospect of the arrival of my interpreter, 
I shall probably be left to commiserate their anxiety, while 
it will be out of my power to do them good. 

I have frequent applications to prescribe for the ophthal- 
my, with which the people are much afflicted, and which I 
should think is a prevalent endemic. Calomel, applied in 
about the quantity of one grain to each eye, once in twenty- 



293 WORSHIP ON THE SABBATH. 

four hours, I found to be an efficacious remedy. No inju- 
rious effects were known to have occurred from its use, and 
in most cases it was successful. 

The Nez Perces have been celebrated for their skill and 
bravery in war. This they have mentioned to me, but say 
they now are afraid to go to war ; for they no longer be- 
lieve that all who fall in battle go to a happy country. 
They now believe that the only way to be happy here or 
hereafter, is by knowing and doing what God requires. 
They have learned enough to fear the consequences of dying 
unforgiven, but not sufficient to embrace the hopes and 
consolations of the gospel. I have been interested to see 
the reasonings of their minds, and the result of their reflec- 
tions, amidst the dimness of so imperfect a knowledge as 
they yet possess. It demonstrates that they are not indif- 
ferent to what they hear, and that their minds are inquisi- 
tive, and capable of thought and investigation. They have 
obtained light sufficient, to show how great is the darkness 
in which they have been enveloped ; and it is to be hoped, 
that these efforts to enlighten themwill be followed by those 
still more efficient, until that meridian day foretold in proph- 
ecy, shall fully come, and these heathen be given to the Sa- 
vior with all the remote ends of the earth for a possession. 

Sabbath, 15th. The interpreter I had been expecting did 
not arrive, and consequently much of what I wished to say 
to these hundreds of Indians, could not be communicated 
for the want of a medium. I felt distressed for them. They 
desired to celebrate the Sabbath after a Christian manner. 
When the chiefs came and enquired what they should do, I 
told them to collect the people into an assembly and spend 
the hours of this sacred day in prayer and singing, and in 
conversation on those things about which I formerly in- 



RETURN TO WALLA WALLA. 289 

structed them. They did so, and it was truly affecting to 
see their apparent reverence, order and devotion, while I 
could not but know that their knowledge was limited indeed. 
The voice of their singing echoed from the hills and vales, 
and I could not but hope, that the time will not be greatly 
future, when they will sing with the spirit and with the un- 
derstanding. As a proof that they have acquired some 
correct ideas of spiritual worship, in distinction from the 
employment of mere outward forms, Kentuc, the Indian 
who attended me so faithfully on my outward route, came 
to me, anxious to describe the different manner in which he 
regarded the worship of the two chiefs, Charlie and Teu- 
tacus. He said Charlie prayed with his lips, but Teutacus 
prayed with his heart. Confession of sin appears to occupy 
much of his prayers, and if there is one among this multi- 
tude, who it may be hoped, has been everlastingly benefited 
by the gospel, I believe it is this man. 

Monday, 16th. I had hitherto been somewhat undecided 
what course to pursue in my future movements ; but came 
to the conclusion to proceed to the place of Rendezvous, and 
join the returning caravan, provided I could go by the way 
of the Grand Round, and to the south-west of the Snake 
river, and explore a part of the country which I had not 
passed through the preceding autumn. But the Indians 
chose to take the retired route of the Salmon river moun- 
tains, to avoid danger from hostile Indians, as it was well 
ascertained that there was a party of Blackfeet warriors 
ranging the territory west of the great mountains. I wish- 
ed to explore the north-east branch of the Columbia, which 
runs through an important part of the country, and upon 
which, and its branches, many considerable tribes reside. 

To return by the way my company would travel, and by 



290 INDIAN INDUSTRY. 

which I came, would be to leave the object of my tour only 
partially accomplished ; and after canvassing the subject 
as deliberately as I could, 1 concluded to return to Walla 
Walla, procure guides and assistants, and go up the Co- 
lumbia as far as Col vile, which is the highest post of the 
Hudson Bay Company, about seven hundred miles, by the 
traveled route, from the Pacific ocean. I informed the In- 
dians of my determination, who, though they evidently pre- 
ferred that I should accompany them, acquiesced in the 
decision, and showed more kindness than I had expected. 
They readily appointed Haminilpilt, one of their young 
chiefs, to attend me on my return down the river. After 
writing several letters, to forward to the United States from 
Rendezvous, we turned our faces to our proposed destina- 
tion, and at night arrived at the village on the Nez Peree 
river, where we had encamped on the eleventh. 

At this place I was peculiarly gratified to notice the in- 
dustry of these people. Some were engaged in catching 
fish, and gave me some excellent salmon ; the women and 
children were early out on horseback to procure the cowish 
root, which they often manufacture into bread ; and when 
we left, only a few old persons and very young children re- 
mained in their village. Five or six miles from this village, 
up a small branch of this river, we passed a spot, which 
some few years ago, was a battle-field between the Nez 
Perce s and some other nation, whose name I could not with 
certainty ascertain, but probably it was the Bonax, Tuelca. 
The ground was judiciously chosen by the invading party, 
which was just back of a point of land coming down near 
the stream of water, leaving only a narrow pass, around 
which they opened a fire, while the Nez Perces, not expec- 
ting the approach of a foe, were taken by surprise, and fif- 



PRACTICE OF SMOKING. 291 

teen or twenty of their number were killed. The very spot 
where each individual fell, is now designated by heaps of 
stones raised three and four feet high. 

The country over which we passed to-day, a distance of 
forty miles, was uncommonly pleasant, diversified with hills 
and valleys and covered with its self-provided carpet of 
lovely green. Several Indians came on after us and travel- 
ed in company. Near night we encamped in a rich valley, 
through which a considerable stream of water runs to the 
north. Before it was dark, a number more whom I recog- 
nized as former acquaintances, overtook us, apparently re- 
luctant to separate from our company. I conversed with 
them about the practice so universal among the men, of 
using tobacco for smoking, a very expensive indulgence, for 
which they pay almost as much as for their whole list of 
comforts besides. In reply to my arguments to dissuade 
them from its use, they said, "white men smoke." I ad- 
mitted the truth, but told them that all white men are not 
wise in every thing they do; that they have some practices 
which are not good. The Nez Perces call tobacco, smoke, 
and remarked, " we are better then than white men ; for 
they eat smoke" — meaning tobacco— "we do not eat smoke." 
This to be sure was an argument of much shrewdness, and 
wholly unanswerable. Such is their attachment to this 
stupefying vegetable, that to obtain it, they will part with 
the last article of food or clothing, or even take down the 
poles which uphold their dwellings, and sell them for fuel. 
In this view I regarded it as a vice, from which they should 
be rescued if practicable. 

The 18th we continued our journey, and rode forty-five 
miles over a more fertile tract than we passed yesterday, 
and better supplied w r ith wood. On the upper part of the 



292 RICH SOIL. 

Walla Walla river is a delightful situation for a missionary 
establishment, having many advantages not found for some 
distance around. It is not, however, so central for either 
the Nez Perces, Cayuses, or Walla Wallas, as would be de- 
sirable, yet a mission located on this fertile field would 
draw around an interesting settlement, who would cultivate 
the soil, and be instructed. How easily might the plough 
go through these valleys, and what rich and abundant har- 
vests might be gathered by the hand of industry. But even 
now the spontaneous productions of these vast plains, inclu- 
ding millions of acres, are so profuse, that not the fiftieth 
part becomes the food of organic life. In some places bands 
of Indian horses are seen ; the timid deer, the hare, the 
wary marmot, and the swift gazelle. But these, with other 
animals, consume so small a proportion, that these wide 
fields are comparatively unoccupied. 

We experienced a long detention on the morning of the 
19th, in consequence of our horses wandering into a ravine, 
to which retreat we could not easily trace them. They did 
not, however, violate their rule, of making our encampment, 
for the time being, their home. We rode twenty-two miles 
and arrived at Walla Walla. Most of the remainder of the 
week was occupied in necessary arrangements for my north- 
east tour, and in writing letters to friends. Mr. P. assisted in 
obtaining Indian guides, and designated two French voya- 
geurs to be my assistants ; one of whom could speak some 
English. I concluded to take horses, and go up through the 
Spokein country, leaving the great bend of the Columbia to 
the left some fifty or sixty miles, and on our return to take the 
river. This would give me a more extended observation of 
the country, of the tribes who inhabit it, and of their condition 
in regard to prospects of establishing teachers among them. 



JOURNEY TO COLVILE. 293 

On Sabbath, the 22d, we had worship as usual, and 
the following day commenced the journey for Colvile. Our 
course was in an easterly direction forty miles, and at night 
we found a new place to lay our heads for rest, in a valley, 
presenting all the appearance of the farmer's grass fields, 
ready for the mower's hand, and from which he expects to 
receive a future gain. But the natives, not appreciating 
these sources of profit, neglect them altogether, and gather 
only a scanty living from a few esculent roots, which grow 
spontaneously in the waste. 



26 



294 PALOOSE INDIANS. 



CHAPTER XXI. 

Paloose Indians— Pavilion river — extraordinary observation— lost on 
the prairie — Indian principle — Spokein woods and country — Indian 
ferry — Spokein valley — granite — volcanic curiosities— fertile valley 
— worship with the Spokeins — Mill river valley — arrival at Fort 
Colvile — description of the place ; leave Colvile for Fort Okanagan 
— a mountain of marble — Grand Coule, or old bed of the Columbia 
— Okanagan described — Long rapids — arrive at Walla Walla. 

The morning of the 24th, we took a more northerly course, 
and after traveling five hours over a somewhat high but 
diversified country, descended into a fertile valley, through 
which flowed a small tributary of the Snake river. Here 
we found a village of Paloose Indians who are a band of the 
Nez Perces. We hired them to assist us in crossing the 
river, which here is a half mile wide, and has a rapid cur- 
rent. We had only a small canoe, which the strength of 
the current carried more than a half mile down the river 
before we could gain the opposite shore. Three times we 
had to encounter the stream, before every thing was safely 
over ; and the horses made a strong effort to swim to the 
opposite shore. This, together with refitting, employed sev- 
eral hours. We traveled up the Pavilion river, which comes 
from the high lands that divide the waters of this and the 
Spokein river. This river is walled up with basalt, gener- 
ally high and perpendicular, in various windings and forms, 
for the distance of fifteen or twenty miles. In some places 
the walls are spread out so widely as to enclose large spaces 
of rich interval ; in other places so closing upon the river 



EXTRAORDINARY EXCAVATION. 295 

as to leave only space sufficient for it to pass. The night 
was cold, the thermometer standing on the morning of the 
25th, at 34° • 

We pursued our way over hills and valleys of an entire 
prairie, until we came to the south part of the Spokein 
country. Near the summit level which divides the waters 
of the Snake and Spokein rivers, there is an interesting ex- 
cavation, walled within by basaltic rocks. The pillars are 
regular pentagons from two to four feet in diameter, in sec- 
tions of various lengths, standing erect and closely joined, 
making a wall from fifty to one hundred feet high. The 
excavated enclosure, though not in a regular form, is yet 
nearly entire, containing fifty or more acres. On the out- 
side of this wall, the earth is as high as the pillars, and 
gradually slopes off in hills and dales. By what agency 
was this excavation formed ? There is no appearance, as 
in many other places, of volcanic craters, unless it is itself 
a crater, and there are no signs of the action of water. 
May it not have been a subsidence ? 1 passed through it 
leisurely, and surveyed with admiration these huge crys- 
tals, of dark materials truly, but showing not the less for 
that circumstance, that certain laws govern the mineral 
world, as well as the animal or vegetable. 

We passed to-day several small villages of the Nez 
Perce and Spokein nations. They all manifested a per- 
fectly friendly disposition, but appeared to be poor, evident- 
ly in want of a comfortable subsistence. We stopped for 
the night, after a ride of fifty miles, near one of these vil- 
lages of Spokeins. Their language differs almost entirely 
from that of any tribe or nation I have yet seen. One of 
my Indian guides was sufficiently acquainted with it to 
inform them of the object of my tour through their coun- 



296 LOST ON THE PRAIRIE. 

try, with which they were not only satisfied, but apparently 
interested. 

We took an early departure on the morning of the 26th, 
but traveled only a few hours before my Indian guides lost 
the trail and the course they should pursue. Becoming 
confident that they were not right, I alighted and set my 
pocket compass, and discovered that instead of a north-east 
direction, they were going west. Enquiring of them if they 
knew where to find our trail again, one of them, a young chief, 
putting his hand to his head, and with gestures expressing 
the confusion of his mind, answered, loaiitu en soko, " I do not 
know." Our situation was rather embarrassing. We had 
very injudiciously left our rifles behind, and were at about 
an equal distance from Walla Walla and Colvile, on a wide- 
ly extended prairie, with provisions adequate to our wants 
only for two days, and no probable means for obtaining 
more until we should arrive at the fort ; to be lost under 
these circumstances was very unpleasant. The point of a 
high mountain we had passed was in view, and we might 
retrace our path, and therefore I was determined not to lose 
sight of this land-mark, until we should find the trail lead- 
ing to the Spokein river. While my guides went off in 
search of it, I could hardly fail to find even in our circum- 
stances, some amusement in the apathy of my two French- 
men. They are so confiding in Indian skill to find their 
way through any country, as by intuition, that they will sing 
or go to sleep with the same heedless indifference when lost 
in a wide wilderness, as when launched upon the waters of 
a well known river, or performing the duties of the fort. 
They appear wholly unconscious of danger on the approach 
of hunger and starvation, until long after the last morsel is 
consumed, and never borrow from futurity to add to the evils 



SPOKEIN RIVER. 297 

that afflict them to-day. On this occasion these men spent 
the time of our detention in calm repose. After some time 
our guides returned and told me they had found some Spo- 
kein Indians about a mile distant, who were traveling to- 
wards the south, but had stopped to refresh their horses. 
We proceeded to the place, and I engaged one of them to 
assist us in finding the way to the main trail, or to the Spo- 
kein river. He was a tall, intelligent looking man. He 
mounted his horse, and set off with such speed, that, jaded 
as our horses were, it was with difficulty we could keep up 
with him. After going at this rate more than an hour, he 
stopped, and pointed us to a lake, and said we should find 
the great trail on the east side. Lest we should again lose 
our way, I was anxious to have him conduct us to their vil- 
lage on the river, but could not prevail upon him to go* any 
farther, although I offered him a large compensation. His 
only, and unvarying answer was, that he had done for us 
all that was needed, and why should he perform any un- 
necessary labor for us- and take pay. It appeared to be a 
principle with him;, that it would be wrong for him to take 
pay for what we did not need. I was astonished at the hon- 
esty of this- heathen, and his steadfast adherence to it, when 
I remembered how many there are in civilized lands, who 
to be well paid, would lengthen a service to an unnecessary 
extent, and artfully deceive you to- make you believe it very 
important. For his faithfulness and honesty I not only paid 
him on the spot to his satisfaction, but afterwards sent him 
a present of powder and balls, articles highly valued. 

Without any farther difficulty, we arrived at the Spokein 
river, at four o'clock, P. M. A few miles after we left the 
lake, we entered the Spokein woods which are very exten- 
sive, consisting of yellow pitch and elastic pine, some hem- 

26* 



298 SPOKEIN VALLEY. 

loc, spruce and fir, together with various shrubbery. These 
are the woods in which Ross Cox was lost, about the cir- 
cumstances of which he gives a very interesting description, 
but which, so far as I have yet had an opportunity to judge, 
contains far more fiction than truth. But his multitude of 
growling bears, and howling wolves, and alarming rattle- 
snakes, of which I have seen only one, may yet come out 
from their lurking places in hostile array. 

When we came to the river which is about thirty rods 
wide, we hallooed a long time for the Indian who keeps a 
canoe ferry, but without success. At length two women 
came to the river, and with uncommonly pleasant voices, 
together with the language of signs, the latter of which 
only I could understand, informed us that the ferryman was 
gone upon a short hunt, would return in the evening, and 
the next morning at sun two hours high, he would come 
and take us over. I never heard voices more expressive of 
kindness. I requested them to paddle the canoe over to us, 
and my men would perform the labor of ferrying over our 
baggage. They declined on account of the rapidity and 
strength of the current, the river being in full freshet. 
Therefore we had to encamp and wait for the morning. 

This is a very pleasant, open valley, though not exten- 
sively wide. The North-west Company had a trading post 
here, one bastion of which is still standing. These woods 
present a fine range for the ornithologist. The magpie is 
seen in great numbers, flying from tree to tree, vociferating 
its chattering notes. Also thrushes, warblers, and wrens 
are numerous, cheering those otherwise solitary wilds with 
their delightful songs, grateful to the weary traveler. Their 
carols appear to be designed to animate each other in their 
intervals of labor, while constructing their habitations so 



SPOKEIN VALLEY. 299 

admirably adapted for their tender offspring ; on an exam- 
ination of which, the most infidel philosopher must be as- 
tonished, and be constrained to acknowledge, that God has 
manifested himself in supplying, instead of reason, a myste- 
rious, unerring instinct, always sufficient for the end to be 
accomplished. 

On the 27th, about the time in the morning mentioned by 
the two women, the Indian ferryman came, and crossed the 
river in his canoe. His appearance, together with that of 
his canoe, reminded me of JSneas' ferryman, who carried 
him over the Stygian lake. 

"Canites inculta jacet ; 
Sordidus ex humeris nodo dependet amictus, 
Cceruleam advertit cymbam, ripaeque propinquat." 

After the river, we crossed the valley of level alluvial 
soil, where it is about a mile and a quarter wide, and the 
east side especially is very fertile. Here the principal vil- 
lage of the Spokeins is located, and one of their number has 
commenced the cultivation of a small field or garden, 
which he has planted with potatoes, peas, and beans, and 
some other vegetables ; all of which were flourishing, and 
were the first I had seen springing up under Indian industry 
west of the mountains. Our ferryman conducted us through 
the valley to the foot of the mountain on the east, and point- 
ed out the trail we should pursue. As we wound- our way 
up the mountain, I looked down into the valley we had 
crossed, and which stretches along the winding river, and 
drew in my imagination a picture of what it will be, when 
this people are brought under the influence of Christianity 
and civilization. This section of country presents less 
appearance of volcanic operation , and in several places I 



300 VOLCANIC CURIOSITIES. 

found granite in its natural form and position, resembling 
that found in the Eastern States. When we had arrived at 
the summit of this mountain, we came to a sandy plain, sev- 
eral miles wide, covered with yellow pine forming an open 
forest. Over parts of this plain were scattered volcanic 
eruptions of singular formation. Hundreds of regular cones 
of various magnitudes, from those of only a few feet in di- 
ameter and height, to those a hundred in diameter and sixty 
feet high. They all had the same appearance, differing 
only in magnitude, and were composed of broken granite, 
in angular pieces, from those that were very small, to six 
or eight inches in diameter, and on the outside were nearly 
black, as if colored with rising smoke. They had more 
the appearance of being broken by manual labor, and piled 
up for future use in constructing roads or wharves, than the 
result of internal fires, and yet no other cause but the latter 
can be assigned. The sandy plain around them was un- 
disturbed, and large pine trees were growing about them as 
in other places. At the south of these were large rocks of 
granite, and in juxtaposition a basaltic dyke extending a 
hundred rods or more. 

After passing this plain, we descended and came again 
to the Spokein river, which makes a bend around to the 
north-east. In this place the valley is less extensive, and 
the mountains are more precipitous. We again ascended the 
mountain, upon which granite and mica slate prevail, with- 
out any volcanic appearances. From this we descended into 
a rich valley, which was covered with a luxuriant growth 
of grass, though but just springing up. This valley has the 
appearance of having been a lake filled up with mountain 
deposits. In the centre is a small lake, from which pro- 
ceeds a rivulet passing out at the south-west. Leaving 



ANXIETY OF THE SPOKEINS. 301 

this place, we wound around a mountain in a northerly di- 
rection, down a valley less fertile, but more extensive, and 
at four in the afternoon came to a stream of water, coming 
from the mountains at the east, where our guides said we 
must stop for the night. 

Near evening, several companies of Spokein and some 
Nez Perce Indians came riding full speed into the place of 
our encampment, and turned out their horses with ours in 
the half wood and prairie. The Spokeins, who had seen 
me on my way, and had learned who I was, sent informa- 
tion out to the various hunting parties, that a minister was 
passing through their country, and as it was the first time 
one was ever among them, they wished to see him and hear 
what he had to say to them. They brought with them a 
good interpreter, a young man of their nation, who had been 
in the school at the Red river settlement near lake Winne- 
peg, on the east side of the mountain, and had obtained a 
very good knowledge of English. We had public worship 
that evening in the Spokein and Nez Perce languages. 
One of the Nez Perces, a chief who understood the Spokein 
language, collected his people, a little to the left of the Spo- 
keins, and translated the discourse as it was delivered, into 
the language of his people, without any interruption to the 
service. This was a plan of their own devising. All the 
circumstances combined were to me unusually interesting. 
Providences above my control had delayed me three several 
times, and thus given them an opportunity to collect their 
people and overtake me. Some of them had pursued my 
path a day and a half, and were unwilling to return, being 
resolved to accompany me to Col vile. These benighted 
Indians manifested the same solicitude to hear the gospel 
that others had done before. And as a most affecting proof 



302 MILL RIVER VALLEY. 

that the impressions then made on their minds were not 
momentary, they went home and erected in their village a 
church, constructed of rude materials surely, but designed, 
as they said, to furnish a place, that when the next mission- 
ary should arrive, he might stop and teach them.* 

The morning of the 28th was cloudy and some rain fell, 
but this did not prevent our early departure ; for it was ne- 
cessary to be on our way, as my men had the evening before 
consumed their entire stock of provisions, and, whatever 
might occur, we could procure no more until we should 
reach Col vile. We could not obtain any game, for being 
advised by the superintendent at Walla Walla not to en- 
cumber ourselves with rifles, we had unwisely left them 
behind. After traveling a few miles in an easterly direc- 
tion we came to a very fertile valley, well adapted to culti- 
vation, extending north and south, at least fifty miles, and of 
various extent in width, from a half mile to two miles. The 
valley is an open prairie well supplied with grass, and even 
in this high latitude of 48°, cattle could do well through the 
whole year, without the labor of cutting hay. The hills on 
each side are covered with woods. As we proceeded down 
this valley, we came to villages of Indians who understood 
the Spokein language, but belonged to another tribe, prob- 
ably to the Coeur d'Alene. Near their principal village 
we came to Mill river, which was in full freshet. They had 
no canoes, and we found difficulty in getting my baggage 
across. But the Nez Perce chief took part of it upon his 
shoulder, mounted his horse, and swam over, and crossed 

* The name of this nation is generally written Spokan, sometimes 
Spokane. I called them Spokans, but they corrected my pronuncia- 
tion, and said Spokein, and this they repeated several times, until I 
was convinced that to give their name a correct pronunciation it 
should be written Spokein. 



FORT COLVILE. 303 

and re-crossed until all was upon the other side. I then 
crossed upon a pole, which was not the most desirable meth- 
od, but still it was preferable to a cold bathing on horseback. 
After pursuing our course a few miles farther, I divided my 
remaining stock of eatables with my destitute French and 
Indian attendants, anticipating our next meal at the time 
when, after a long day's industrious travel, we should find 
ourselves safely at Colvile. 

Towards the lower part of the valley, through which we 
were passing, the land is remarkably fertile. A missionary 
located here, would have easy access to the Spokein, Sap- 
well, Sintou-tou-oulish, Kettle falls, Lake, Cceur d'Alene, 
and Pondera Indians. I know not of so important a field 
within two hundred miles, presenting the natural advanta- 
ges of mild climate, good soil, and forests. 

We arrived at Fort Colvile late in the afternoon, after a 
weary journey of sixty miles. The situation of this fort is 
on an elevated spot, about fifty rods from the river, sur- 
rounded by an alluvial plain of rich soil, and opening in 
every direction an extended prospect of mountain scenery ; 
and a half mile below are Kettle falls, above which the 
river spreads out widely, and moves slowly, but just above 
the precipice it contracts into a narrow channel, and dis- 
appears from the view of the spectator at the fort, until 
seen winding its w T ay among rocks below. This establish- 
ment is built for defense and is well stoccaded, but so friend- 
ly have the natives always been, that no wars have ever 
occurred among them. It is occupied by some half dozen 
men with Indian families, and is well supplied with the 
useful animals and fowls common to farming establish- 
ments. The winter and summer grains, together with gar- 
den vegetables, are cultivated with success and in profusion. 



304 WORSHIP AT THE FORT. 

This place does not suffer with summer drouth, like many 
other parts of this country, as rains are of frequent occur- 
rence ; the seasons here are not so distinctly divided, as on 
the lower parts of the Columbia, into wet and dry. 

I was much disappointed in not finding Mr. McDonald, 
the superintendent of the fort, at home. He had left a few 
days before with a brigade for Fort Vancouver ; but the 
kindest attention was paid me by those who had the charge 
of the fort. I found here an old man, who thirty years be- 
fore accompanied Lewis and Clarke across the continent, 
and had for several years past taken up his residence here. 
He is in the employ of the fur company, and acts as inter- 
preter to the neighboring Indians. 

On Sabbath the 29th, the people of the fort who under- 
stood English, assembled, and we worshiped the God of 
our lives, who had protected us hitherto, and from differ- 
ent nations had collected us in a little group in this re- 
gion of the world. The Indians too came about me and 
expressed great anxiety to be taught the revealed will of 
God. They endeavored to make me understand what their 
former traditionary belief and practices had been, and to 
let me know, that what they had learned from me was rea- 
sonable and satisfactory to them, and that they wished to 
know all that related to so important and momentous a sub- 
ject. But our medium of communication was inadequate 
to a full disclosure of that most interesting truth, that God 
so loved the world that he gave his only Son to die for its 
redemption. 

Wherever I have met with the natives of this distant re- 
gion they have invariably, with earnestness and importuni- 
ty, asked the gift of the gospel from the hands of Christians. 
But how little of the faith, and love, and liberality of the 



JOURNEY DOWN THE COLUMBIA. 305 

church is invested in the most profitable of all enterprises, 
the conversion of the world . Should some one propose the 
construction of a rail road from the Atlantic to the Pacific, 
and demonstrate the practicability of the measure, and show 
that nature has interposed no effectual barrier, and that it 
would concentrate not only the whole internal, but also the 
China trade, and the stock would produce annually a rich 
dividend, how soon would Christians engage in it. 

Monday the 30th of May, we commenced our journey 
down the Columbia. The brigade having taken all the 
boats from this place on their late passage to Fort Vancou- 
ver, we were compelled to take horses for Okanagan. I 
changed my guides for two others ; one a Spokein, and the 
other a Paloose ; retaining my two voyageurs. As we left 
Fort Colvile we had a fine view of Kettle falls. The Co- 
lumbia was in its freshet, and as it rolled down in a broken 
cataract the distance of one hundred feet, it v/as a sub- 
lime spectacle. The whole scenery as we proceeded down 
the river was marked by variety, wildness, and romantic 
grandeur, as if the hand of nature, in decking these remote 
regions, had consulted for her own amusement some of her 
most playful and tasteful fancies. The mountains around 
are constructed on a scale of magnificence, presenting al- 
most all the varieties of elevation, precipice, and forest. 
This is the country, which, by.more than one of my prede- 
cessors in travel, has been celebrated as the abode of wolves, 
bears, and rattle-snakes, to an extent that renders it almost 
impenetrable, by ordinary courage ; but we found no indi- 
cations of the presence of these animals before this even- 
ing, when the distant barking of a prairie wolf, for once 
interrupted the universal silence by which we were sur- 
rounded. 

27 



806 LOCATION OF MARBLE. 

After a few hours' ride, on the morning of the 31st, we 
re-crossed the Spokein river just above its entrance into the 
Columbia. This large valley is capable of supporting a 
much more numerous population than now obtain a subsist- 
ence by hunting and fishing. The Indians residing here 
afforded us, very cheerfully, all the assistance we needed in 
ferrying the river. In the neighborhood of this place I dis- 
covered a mountain of rich and very beautiful saccharine 
marble, situated on the south side of the Columbia river ; 
some sections are pure white, while others are beautifully 
clouded with blue and brown. It effervesced freely with 
sulphuric acid. This will in time become very valuable, 
for being upon navigable waters, it can be transported into 
various countries. Several miles below this marble loca- 
tion, I was interested with the juxtaposition of granite and 
basalt. It was on an elevated piece of land one hundred 
and fifty feet above the river. Near the river there were 
large quantities of solid granite in its natural position, with- 
out any appearance of having undergone an igneous in- 
fluence, and near by to the left was a stupendous dyke of 
basalt rising two hundred feet, presenting the appearance of 
having been thrown up by several successive volcanic erup- 
tions; the earth on the back side gradually rising to a 
mountain. 

At this place we left the river, to save traversing a great 
bend, and took a westerly course, expecting to reach it 
again before night. We pursued our way over an elevated 
prairie, destitute of wood and water. It became evident 
that night would overtake us before we could reach the river, 
unless we should urge forward with all the speed that hu- 
manity for our horses would permit. Before five o'clock 
we came near the great gulf walled up with basalt, which as 



GRAND COULE . 307 

We supposed, embosomed the deep-flowing Columbia. Our 
next object was to find a place where we could descend to 
its shores. After ranging along two or three miles, we 
found a descent by a ravine ; but to our disappointment 
discovered that it was the Grand Coule, which was un- 
doubtedly the former channel of the river. With consider- 
able difficulty we wound our way into it, and found it well 
covered with grass, and by searching, obtained a small 
supply of water. This quondam channel of the river is 
nearly a mile wide, with a level bottom, and studded with 
islands. Its sides are lined, as the river itself is in many 
places, with volcanic rocks, two and three hundred feet per- 
pendicular. This Coule separates to the left from the pres- 
ent channel of the Columbia, about one hundred miles be- 
low Colvile, and is about one hundred miles in length, when 
it again unites with the river. The volcanic appearances 
are exhibited here as in other places, furnishing evidences 
of eruptions at different periods of time. A peculiarity in 
this instance was a stratum of yellow earth, eight or ten 
feet in thickness between the strata of basalt. Those who 
have traveled through the whole length of the Coule, rep- 
resent it as having the same general features throughout, 
while the whole distance of the river around to the place 
where it again unites, as I know from personal observation, 
has not the peculiarity of a deep channel, cut through the 
rocks. 

We left the Grand Coule early on the morning of the 1st 
of June, and with difficulty ascended the western bank. 
Before noon my guides lost the way to Okanagan, and wan- 
dered far out upon the wide prairie where there was no 
water. Losing my confidence in their- knowledge of the 
country, except on some frequented routes, I directed my 



308 FORT OK AN AG AN. 

course by my compass to the north-west for the river ; and 
perceiving a snow-topped mountain in the distance, I con- 
cluded the river must lie between it and ourselves, and 
accordingly made it my landmark. Pursuing this direc- 
tion a few hours with rapid speed, we came to a slope 
which gradually narrowed into a ravine, and introduced 
us at length to a spring of water. Our thirsty horses rush- 
ed into it, and it was with difficulty we could control their 
excess in drinking. We followed this ravine, the water of 
which continually gained accessions until it became a 
large stream, with a rich valley of alluvial bottom, and 
united its waters with the Columbia, a few miles above Fort 
Okanagan, the place of our destination. 

Fort Okanagan is situated on the north side of the Co- 
lumbia, above the confluence of the Okanagan river, from 
which, and from the Indians residing in its vicinity, the 
fort takes its name. It was first built by Mr. David Stu- 
art, a partner of the American Fur Company, in 1811^ 
There is an open space of considerable extent around ; the 
soil is of an inferior quality, hard and gravelly, but produ- 
cing grass to supply the cattle and horses belonging to the 
station. A few fertile spots of alluvial soil are found in the 
vicinity. The Columbia does not appear to have contin- 
ued so long in its present channel, since leaving the Grand 
Coule, as to form those extensive alluvial bottoms, which 
exist in many other parts of its course. After leaving the 
Spokein woods there is very little forest to supply timber 
for fuel, fencing or building. They are dependent on flood- 
wood which descends the river for their ordinary fuel, and 
the freshets generally furnish a large supply. Not far dis- 
tant, at the north there are snow-topped mountains, yet the 
country here is not remarkably mountainous. At this place 



OKANAGAN INDIANS. 309 

1 had an opportunity to see some of the Okanagan tribe. 
Their personal appearance is less noble than the Spokeins, 
but they are not less peaceable, friendly and honest in their 
dispositions. This is evident from the fact that the charge 
of the fort in the absence of Capt. Ogden, the superintend- 
ent, was committed temporarily to a Frenchman, and sev- 
eral of the Indians. This tribe with the Shooshaps number 
about two thousand persons. They are much employed in 
the salmon fishery, and large quantities are prepared by 
drying for the winter's use. Their country does not abound 
in game, and hunting occupies but little of their time. The 
climate here, as in other parts of the Oregon Territory, is 
very mild and salubrious. 

Wishing to pursue my way down the river, I hired two 
Indians to assist my two Frenchmen in navigating a bateau 
which we obtained at this place ; and committed our horses 
to my Indian guides to take them across the country to 
Walla Walla. My confidence in the honesty of these men 
was without any suspicion, and I could trust them with our 
six horses, saddles and bridles, to go on any enterprise with- 
in their capacity to accomplish. They have so much self- 
respect, that they would not on any account commit a 
crime, which would expel them from their people, induce 
them to seek concealment, or abridge their liberties as free- 
men. 

We embarked in our boat, June 2d, to perform a voyage 
of four" hundred miles, with the river in full freshet ; and its 
strong current increased by high water, secured to us a ve- 
locity beyond the ordinary. We passed several rapids, and 
dashed over the breaking surges, where the least misman- 
agement would have caused inevitable submersion without 

any prospect of escape. But my voyageurs showed by 

27* 



310 PETRIFIED TREE. 

their adroitness at the oar, that they were upon their favor- 
ite element, and their gayety and songs began to revive, on 
being relieved from the rough, and to them unpleasant jour- 
ney on horseback, over hills and down ravines, and through 
forests. The elasticity of their native character was al- 
most immediately apparent, and we glided on with celerity, 
making a voyage of one hundred miles before it was neces- 
sary to seek our safety for the night on shore. The coun- 
try through which we passed to-day was rather mountain- 
ous. I saw many locations of granite in its natural state, 
but as we proceeded, volcanic operations began to appear, 
and the granite exhibited the effects of intense heat, until 
it wholly disappeared, and breccia, amygdaloid, basalt, and 
lava took its place. In the afternoon we passed a perpen- 
dicular section of rock, two hundred and fifty feet high ; 
half way to the top of which, a petrified tree of considera- 
ble magnitude is suspended. It appears to be retained in its 
place by having its roots inserted in the crevices of the rocks, 
between the layers of different eruptions. How it procured 
its elevated situation is quite a mystery. It could not have 
vegetated there, unless at the time of its growth, it was sup- 
ported by a surface upon which to rise ; and taking the pres- 
ent condition of the rocks, it could not be deposited there 
by any floods of the river, and certainly it could not in such 
case, intertwine its roots in the crevices of the rocks. Gen- 
tlemen of the Hudson Bay Company, and others who navi- 
gate this river, have amused themselves by shooting off 
pieces with their rifles, and they assured me it was wholly 
a petrifaction. Our encampment this evening was a few 
miles above the Long Rapids, which extend nine miles. 

On the 3d, as we approached the Long Rapids about fifty 
miles above Walla Walla, they presented the appearance of 



LONG RAPIDS. 311 

waves rolling under a strong breeze of wind, and their dis- 
tant murmur broke upon the stillness of the morning. To 
pass them without fear, is an undertaking which requires 
courage and self-possession ; but knowing that these inland 
navigators are experienced in all the dangers of boating 
excursions, I had but little drawback upon the pleasure I 
anticipated in a swift descent over them. With much care 
and exertion of my men we safely outrode them, a distance 
of nine miles, in forty minutes. It is this variety of falls, 
cascades, and rapids^ together with the ever-varying scene- 
ry of nature's wildest and grandest forms, that keeps the 
mind from wearying, and awakens almost perpetually some 
new emotions and energies, while performing a voyage of 
several hundred miles in open bateaux or light canoes. Not 
unfrequently in the stillness and solitude of the river, when 
it assumed its more placid features, such a sense of security 
is enjoyed, that a resort to books, to assist in a profitable 
disposition of time, is pleasant. 

My voyageurs called my attention to a red lurid aspect 
of the atmosphere in the south, and said we should have a 
strong wind from that quarter. Their prognostication was 
soon realized. The gale did not last long, and the only 
remarkable feature was, that when it subsided, it was al- 
most instantaneously. 

Through the distance of about one hundred miles, which 
we passed to-day, the country is level and destitute of wood. 
I observed a bank of clay in layers of diversified struc- 
ture, such as I have often noticed. The different sections 
were of various colors ; some dusky red, some yellow, and 
blue, and others white, making an upright elevation of one 
hundred feet or more. 

Salmon are ascending the river in great numbers, and 



312 ARRIVAL AT WALLA WALLA. 

groups of Indians are scattered along pursuing the employ- 
ment of catching them. Wherever we passed them, they 
came off in their canoes, bringing salmon to sell, some of 
which were roasted in the best manner, and served up on 
broad pieces of bark, which answered a good purpose in 
the absence of plates ; and often large leaves of plants were 
spread neatly upon the bark. Upon these we dined, with- 
out bread, vegetables, or salt. My voyageitrs found suffi- 
cient employment in the gratification of their appetites, to 
interrupt for a while their anecdote and song. We arrived 
at Walla Walla at evening, just in season to find shelter 
from one of the most violent thunder storms, accompanied 
with wind, which I have witnessed in this country. Such 
storms are of rare occurrence west of the mountains. 



SNAKE INDIANS. 313 



CHAPTER XXII. 

A summary of the Indians of the Upper country — names of the tribes, 
their locations and numbers — leave Walla Walla for Fort Vancou- 
ver — swift passage down the river — run the Falls — Cascades — dan. 
gerous eddy — -arrive at Vancouver — steam-boat excursion. 

Having traveled over the most important parts of the 
upper country, and collected the facts of its physical condi- 
tion, together with the location, character, and condition 
of the most numerous tribes of Indians ; before leaving 
this section of the territory west of the Rocky Mountains, 
it may be proper to give a connected summary of these par- 
ticulars. On the south part of the Oregon Territory, ad- 
joining Upper California, are located the Shoshones or 
Snake Indians. I was not able to gain knowledge of their 
definite numbers, but the general estimate is that they are 
more than ten thousand. Their country is decidedly the 
most barren, west of the mountains ; most parts being cov- 
ered with scoria and other volcanic productions. These 
Indians are poor, and as indicative of their condition and 
their resources, they are called Snake Indians, and Root 
diggers. Some of them go to the mountains and hunt buf- 
falo, and they very generally resort to the river in the sea- 
son of fishing. They have a tolerable supply of horses. 
When they go to Rendezvous they make a great display, 
advancing on horseback, dressed in their most fantastic 
manner, exhibiting all their ornaments of feathers, beads, 
wolf-tails, teeth and claws of animals, arranged according 



314 INDIANS — DIFFERENT TRIBES. 

to their notions of good taste. The warriors are armed, 
hideously painted, and those who have been wounded in bat- 
tle are very fond of showing their scars. After coursing 
around and through the camp of Rendezvous for some time, 
they dismount and go through the ceremony of shaking 
hands. I had also an opportunity of seeing many of these 
and the Utaws at Rendezvous. The country of the Utaws 
is situated to the east and south-east of the Shoshones, 
about the Salt Lake and on the head waters of the Colora- 
do river, which empties into the gulf of California. They 
number nearly four thousand persons, and appear to be a 
mild and peaceable people, honest, kind, and hospitable to 
strangers, and affectionate among themselves. They live 
by hunting, fishing, and gathering roots and berries. Their 
dress is plain, and their manners are unassuming. Their 
country being in latitude about 41°, has a fine climate, and 
good soil. 

Proceeding north, we come to the country of the Nez 
Perce's, which has many fertile parts adapted to tillage, and 
is throughout a fine grazing country. They number about 
two thousand five hundred ; but they have already been 
often mentioned. 

The Cayuses are situated to the west of the Nez Perce's, 
and very much resemble them in person, dress, habits, and 
morals. They are equally peaceable, honest, and hospita- 
ble to strangers. They number more than two thousand 
persons. Their wealth consist in horses, which are unusu- 
ally fine and numerous ; it being no uncommon thing for 
one man to own several hundred. Their country, especial- 
ly that about the Grand Round, is uncommonly fertile, pro- 
ducing spontaneously cammas in great abundance, upon 
which, with fish and some game, they principally subsist. 



INDIANS DIFFERENT TRIBES. 315 

They express the same anxiety to be instructed as the Nez 
Perces and Flatheads. 

The Walla Walla Indians inhabit the country about the 
river of the same name, and range some distance below, 
along the Columbia river. The number of persons in this 
tribe is about five hundred. In their character, employ- 
ments, and moral habits, they do not materially differ from 
the last named tribes. 

The Paloose tribe are properly a part of the Nez Perces, 
and in all respects are like them. Their residence is along 
the Nez Perce river and up the Pavilion. They number 
about three hundred. The four last named tribes speak the 
same language with a little dialectical difference. 

North-east of the Palooses are the Spokein nation. They 
number about eight hundred persons, besides some small 
tribes adjoining them who might be counted a part of their 
nation. I have so fully described them that it is unneces- 
sary to enlarge upon their character. Their country is 
much diversified with mountains and valleys, prairie and 
woods, and a large part is of primitive formation, and some 
parts are very fertile. They denominate themselves the 
children of the sun, which in their language is Spokein. 
Their main dependence for subsistence is upon fishing and 
hunting, together with gathering roots and berries. I have 
stated that a commencement is made in agriculture, which 
it is to be hoped will be generally adopted, so that their pres- 
ent precarious mode of living may give plac3 to that which 
will be substantial. They have many horses, but not so 
numerous as their neighbors farther south. 

East of these are the Cceur d'Alene Indians, whose num- 
bers are about seven hundred, and who are characterized 
by civility, honesty, and kindness. Their country is more 



316 INDIANS — A CHIEF'S ANECDOTE. 

open than that of the Spokeins, and equally, if not better 
adapted to agriculture. 

The country of the Flatheads is still farther east and 
south-east, and extends to the Rocky Mountains. They 
are a very interesting tribe ; dignified in their persons, no- 
ble, frank, and generous in their dispositions, and have al- 
ways shown a firm attachment to white men. They num- 
ber about eight hundred persons, and live a wandering life. 
For subsistence they follow the buffalo upon the head wa- 
ters of Clarke and Salmon rivers, and often pass over to the 
head waters of the Missouri. They have become a small 
tribe by constant wars with the Blackfeet Indians, though 
they themselves are not of a ferocious or hostile disposition. 
Being averse to war, they wish to settle upon their lands, 
and are only waiting to be instructed in the arts of civili- 
zation, and in Christianity. 

Their country is mountainous, but intersected with plea- 
sant, fertile valleys, large portions of which are prairie. 
The mountains are cold, but in the valleys the climate is 
mild. 

An anecdote was related by a chief of this nation, which 
illustrates their native character, and the propensity of In- 
dians to imitation. He said the first white men he saw, 
was when he was young. It was summer. He said, 
" These are a new people, they look cold, their faces are 
white and red ; go make a large fire, and I will ask them 
to come and warm them." In a short time his people had 
made a fire, and brought new buffalo robes. The white 
men came into his lodge, and he wrapped them in the robes 
and seated them by the fire that they might be warm. 
The robes slipped off; he replaced them. Soon the white 
men made signs to smoke their pipe. The chief thought 



INDIANS DIFFERENT TRIBES. 317 

they asked for food, and brought them meat. The white 
men gave him the pipe, and he and his people smoked, 
" and after this they loved smoke, and they loved the white 
men, and said they were good." 

The Ponderas are so like the Flatheads in person, man- 
ners, and character, that a particular description of them 
may be passed over They number about two thousand 
two hundred, and live on the north of Clarke's river, and 
on a lake which takes its name from the tribe. Their 
country has many fertile parts, and would soon be put un- 
der cultivation, if they could obtain instructors to teach 
them agriculture and to impart to them a knowledge of those 
things which are necessary to constitute a happy and pros- 
perous community. Their language is the same as the 
Spokeins' and Flatheads'. The Cootanies inhabit a section 
of country to the north of the Ponderas along M'Gillivray's 
river, and are represented as an uncommonly interesting 
people. They speak a language distinct from all the tribes 
about them, open and sonorous, and free from gutterals, 
which are common in the language of the surrounding tribes. 
They are neat in their persons and lodges, candid and hon- 
est, and kind to each other. I could not ascertain their num- 
bers, but probably they are not over a thousand. 

There are several other tribes of Indians, whose countries 
are situated upon the waters of the north-east branch of the 
Columbia river, resembling each other so nearly in their 
customs, morals, manners, and mode of living, that it is un- 
necessary to go into a separate and particular description 
of each. I will mention the names, locations, and number 
of some of the principal tribes. North of the Cootanies are 
the Carriers, whose number is estimated to be four thousand. 

South of these are the Lake Indians, so named from their 

28 



318 DESCEND THE RIVER. 

place of residence, which is about the Arrow Lakes. They 
are about five hundred in number. At the south, and about 
Colvile, are the Kettle Falls Indians, who number five hun- 
dred and sixty. West of these are the Sinpauelish, one 
thousand in number ; and below these are the Shooshaps, 
having a population of five hundred and seventy-five. At 
the west and north-west, next in order are the Okanagans, 
numbering one thousand and fifty. To the north and west are 
several tribes, about whom I obtained no definite informa- 
tion. Between Okanagan and the Long Rapids are detach- 
ments of Indians, who appear poor, and wanting in that man- 
ly and active spirit, which characterizes the tribes above 
named. South of the Long Rapids, to the confluence of 
Lewis' river with the Columbia, are the Yookoomans, a 
more active people, numbering about, seven hundred. The 
whole number of the above named Indians is thirty-two 
thousand five hundred and eighty-five. This is probably a 
low estimate, and in the number, the Falls and La Dalles 
Indians are not included, nor many other numerous tribes 
residing at the north and south of the Falls of the Colum- 
bia, whose numbers, I could not with certainty ascertain. 
We might more than double this number, and probably still 
come below the population of the upper country. 

The Indians to whom our horses were entrusted, came 
in safely, as I expected. After resting on the Sabbath, 
we renewed, on Monday the 6th, our voyage down the 
river, having Fort Vancouver for our next destination. 
We exchanged the bateau for a large canoe, retaining 
the men who attended me from Okanagan. Assisted by 
the high water, we made rapid progress until three in the 
afternoon, when a strong head wind compelled us to take 
to the land for the remainder of the day, having gone 



RUN THE FALLS OP THE COLUMBIA. 319 

seventy-five miles. The Indians as usual came to us in 
their friendly manner, offering us salmon, and asking for 
tobacco, which they esteem more highly than either gold 
or silver. They have been accustomed to traffic in this 
commodity, until they expect it of every passing traveler. 

The morning of the 7th was more calm, and we got un- 
der way at an early hour, but with the rising day the wind 
again increased to such a degree, that we were obliged to 
suspend our voyage. After a strenuous endeavor to effect 
a landing on the north, we were at length, without the power 
of controlling our canoe, and in much danger, driven across 
to the opposite shore, where we succeeded in landing, and 
here for the first time in all my travels, I found it impossi- 
ble to pitch my tent, such being the strength of the wind, 
that it would have been carried away. The canoe was 
drawn upon the shore, and wrapping myself in my blank- 
ets and buffalo robes, I laid me down in safety by the side 
of the canoe. We had here, as at all our other landing 
places, the usual friendly visit from the neighboring Indians. 

The following day we were able to resume our journey, 
and passed the rapids, which in the tempest of yesterday 
looked so forbidding. A little caution on the part of my 
experienced Frenchmen in regard to the numerous islands 
and eddies, enabled us to effect the passage in perfect safety. 
In a short time we approached the falls of the Columbia, 
which, in low water, are twenty feet perpendicular, follow- 
ed by raging rapids below. Bousheau, my steersman, pro- 
posed to run the falls, saying that there was no danger in 
full freshet, and that it would save a portage. We were 
then passing a section of the river where the banks were 
walled up with basalt ; and while I was revolving in my 
mind the chances of safety, I had concluded, that when 



320 LA DALLES. 

we should come to the great basin above the falls, I would 
be set on shore ; but when we came to the basin, the water 
of the river, rushing from the mural shores, formed impass- 
able breakers on the right and on the left, and onward 
we must go, let consequences be what they would. We 
kept near the middle of the river, which was free from 
breakers, though not from high surges. Soon, with ama- 
zing velocity, we were over the cataract of the mighty wa- 
ters, and made our way into a bay at the head of the first 
portage of the La Dalles. The accumulation of water from 
these stupendous mountains above, was so great, that the 
narrow channel of the La Dalles, studded with basaltic 
islands, so obstructed the passage of the river, that the falls 
were almost lost in the depth. 

Such were the eddies and surging of the water among 
the rocky islands in the narrow broken channel of the La 
Dalles, that we had to make three portages. Our canoe 
was so large that twenty Indians were not too many to 
carry it safely. Their mode of carrying is to invert it upon 
their heads and shoulders, and then it is with difficulty and 
danger that they pass the steep and rocky ravines. When 
we came to the last portage, the Indians were not willing 
to take hold again unless we would pay them in powder 
and balls ; and although their demands were reasonable, 
yet my stores were not adequate to meet them, and they 
would not perform the labor without the required articles. I 
engaged Sopelay, and another influential chief, to induce 
their men to perform the labor of making this last portage, 
and promised that I would send them the demand from 
Fort Vancouver, and for their security I would give them a 
talking paper. They stated to their people my proposal, and 
were about to succeed, when TilkT, the first chief, who had 



DANGEROUS WHIRLPOOL. 321 

become familiar with an American trader, laughed at their 
credulity. Sopelay, however, stated to the people, that he 
had seen me at the fort, and that he heard me teach the In- 
dians good things, and did not believe I would deceive them. 
He prevailed, and the men took hold of the work ; and in 
/bur hours from passing the falls we were beyond the raging 
water, where we made our morning repast upon very fine 
salmon. 

Our passage during the remainder of the day was pleas- 
ant ; we passed Cape Horn without difficulty, and landed for 
the night twelve miles above the Cascades. In this high 
state of the water, very few of the trees of the submerged 
forest were to be seen. 

On the morning of the 9th, we passed the Cascades by 
hiring Indians to cordelle the canoe down them, exclusive of 
one short portage, the distance of two miles to the great 
basin, or rather the great whirlpool below. This labor is 
attended with some danger, and cases, though not numerous, 
have occurred of the loss of lives and property. As I walk- 
ed along the shores, and over precipices, I saw the wrecks 
of several canoes and bateaux strewed upon the rocks. We 
embarked upon the great basin, at the lower part of which 
we passed into a rapid, where the main current took a dia- 
gonal course from the north towards the south shore. On 
both sides of this current there were heavy breakers, and as 
the only course of safety, we took the middle. We had not 
proceeded far before a large whirlpool, with a deep, devour- 
ing vortex, formed almost directly before us, and as we were 
going forward very swiftly, it seemed impossible to avoid its 
circling current. I said to my steersman, bear a little to 
the right. " O don't speak here," was his reply. As we 

approached the vortex, it filled after the manner of smaller 

28* 



322 A FIELD FOR NATURALISTS, 

eddies, and we soon felt the influence of its waters rolling 
out from the centre, and all our strength was required to 
resist them, lest we should be thrown upon the breakers. 
We passed with the rapidity of the wind, and in a short time 
were upon the smooth surface of the tide waters below. 

The sensations excited in descending these Cascades are 
of that peculiar character, which are best understood by ex- 
perience. The sensation of fear is no sooner awakened than 
it subsides before the power and magnificence of the rolling 
surges, the circling vortices, and the roaring breakers. Let 
those whose dormant energies, either of body or mind, need 
arousing, try the navigation of the Columbia in high water, 
and their powers will be invigorated for almost any future 
enterprise. Such is the fascinating power, I had almost said 
magic of these scenes, that those who are accustomed to be 
employed upon these waters, though far away from home 
and kindred, become attached to this mode of life, and are 
reluctant to abandon it for any other. Each time the scene- 
ry of these interesting Cascades is beheld, new wonders 
unfold themselves. Niagara itself, if we except its unbroken 
fall of one hundred and fifty feet, cannot bear a comparison 
with the superior style of nature's works here. Nor are 
these things created merely to attract our momentary admi- 
ration. Science in very many of its departments, may find 
subjects for investigation. 

While the ornithologist listens to the songsters of the for- 
ests, and in these enchanting solitudes follows them with his 
eye, as they dart from bough to bough ; he regards with ad- 
miration the noble and majestic white headed eagle, as he 
takes his favorite perch upon the loftiest heights of some 
needle-pointed rock, or the summit of some leafless tree, or 
as he darts from thence upon his prey ; or his attentioa may 



A FIELD FOR NATURALISTS. 323 

be arrested by the daring fish-hawk in his rapid descent up- 
on the finny tribe. An amusing occurrence took place in 
my view. A fish-hawk seized upon a fish of such magni- 
tude, that the contest for a long time was doubtful, as the 
splashing water indicated, which should exchange its native 
element. The resistance was so great, that a disengage- 
ment was deemed the best policy. 

Here also the botanist, while he forbears to ascend the 
lofty mountains, which" for him present an aspect of too 
much dreariness, may retire into the narrow receding val- 
leys, or wind his way over sunny hills in search of new 
genera of plants, or at least new species, with which to im- 
mortalize his name, and add to the stores of his favorite 
science. 

The geologist, while he admires the stupendous monu- 
ments of volcanic operations before him, may also find 
much to interest him in examining more minute formations. 
Along the rugged shores are scattered specimens of calce- 
dony, jasper, agate, and cornelian. He may examine the 
cellules of the immense masses of amygdaloid ; the colum- 
nar basalt and the mountains shooting up their denticulated 
forms and needle-points. His attention will be drawn to the 
examination of the lava, breccia, and trachyte ; and he will 
be interested in finding many dendrolites. When he looks 
at the deep channel through which the Columbia river finds 
its onward way to the Pacific ocean, if he doubts the agen- 
cy of God in forming the courses of the rivers, he may in- 
dulge his imagination in computing how long it has taken 
this river to wear down the immensely hard basalt a thou- 
sand feet; and having ascertained how long it takes to 
wear any given depth, he may then make his mathematical 
conclusions how long the process has been going on. But if 



324 ARRIVAL AT THE FORT. 

he is a Christian philosopher, while he admits second caus* 
es, he may look up to the first great Cause, and admire and 
adore; and not regarding baseless theories, may exclaim, 
" How wonderful are thy works, in wisdom hast thou made 
them all." 

As we passed out of the mountain country about the Cas- 
cades, we found the wide valley below so inundated, as to 
present the appearance of an inland sea. I arrived safely 
at the fort, found my friends well, and exchanged cordial 
congratulations. 

Sabbath, June 12th, I preached to the people of the fort, 
and in the evening had a third service, in which as hereto- 
fore, an opportunity was given to those present, to propose 
questions on any subject of religion about which they wished 
information. I was particularly gratified to find, that du- 
ring my absence, public worship had been maintained, and 
an effort nad been made to bring the French Canadians to 
attend upon religious instruction. They are assembled 
twice on the Sabbath, and a portion of scripture and a ser- 
mon in French, are read to them by Dr. McLaughlin. 

I was favored with an opportunity to send to Sopelay the 
promised powder and balls, by Capt. Black, a gentleman of 
the Company, who in a few days was to leave Vancouver 
for his station- north of Fort Okanagan. 

On the 14th, we took a water excursion in the steam-boat 
Beaver, Capt. Home, down the Columbia to the confluence 
of the western branch of the Multnomah ; up this river into 
the Willamette, and then into the middle branch of the 
Multnomah, and through it into the Columbia, and back to 
the fort. All the low lands were overflowed with the annual 
freshet, and presented the appearance of an immense bay, 
extending far into the country. The day was pleasant and . 



NAVIGABLE WATERS. 325 

our company cheerful. The novelty of a steam-boat on the 
Columbia, awakened a train of prospective reflections upon 
the probable changes which would take place in these re- 
mote regions, in a very few years. It was wholly an un- 
thought of thing when I first contemplated this enterprise, 
that I should find here this forerunner of commerce and bu- 
siness. The gayety which prevailed was often suspended, 
while we conversed of coming days, when with civilized 
men, all the rapid improvements in the arts of life, should 
be introduced over this new world, and when cities and vil- 
lages shall spring up on the west, as they are springing up 
on the east of the great mountains, and a new empire shall 
be added to the kingdoms of the earth. 

The Columbia is the only river of magnitude in the Ore- 
gon Territory, and this is navigable for ships but one hun- 
dred and thirty miles to the Cascades ; and it is the only 
one which affords a harbor for large ships on the coast, from 
California to the 49° of north latitude. For bateaux and 
various other light craft, the Columbia and its branches are 
navigable a thousand miles. The internal navigation could 
not be much improved, unless at great expense, by canals 
around the rapids and falls, which are so numerous that 
ascending the river is now difficult. Still a considerable 
interior trade is carried on by means of these waters, and 
the ingenuity of men on the west, when it shall be more 
extensively populated, will contrive facilities, as on the east, 
for greatly improving the intercourse of remote and differ- 
ent portions of this territory. 



326 GEOLOGY. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

Geology. 

Having remarked on the features of the country through 
which I passed, as I proceeded, I shall now give a more 
connected and summary view of facts, the result of my ob- 
servations in relation to the geology of that hitherto unex- 
plored region. m In remarking, however, on the observed 
facts, it cannot be expected that I should be able to give a 
complete view of the geology of so extensive a territory ; it 
being greater than the whole of the United States east of 
the Alleghany Mountains. The complexity, too, must be 
considered, of plainly marked phenomena, resulting from 
long continued igneous action, where both ancient and com- 
paratively recent products are so blended, that time and 
much experience alone can resolve appearances, at first 
view inexplicable. Let the reader also add to this the cir- 
cumstances under which the author was compelled to note 
the data of his conclusions. He regrets that in his brief 
stay in a country, where many years are requisite fully 
to investigate all its interesting phenomena, and in a field 
so rich, he could' make but few measurements, and only 
judge in most cases by approximate modes. As to the strict 
scientific accuracy of his statements, he deems it no more 
than just to say, that while he doubts not that the facts he 
details are worthy the attention of scientific men, and are 
correct in re, so that perfect reliance may be placed on 
them,, yet he feels himself to have wanted that almost intu- 



GEOLOGY. 327 

itive knowledge, which he alone possesses who has long 
been a field-laborer. 

With these considerations the author presents the result 
of his observations, hoping the reader may find much that 
is valuable respecting these regions of the setting sun, re- 
plete as they are with interest, arising from grandeur both 
of scenery, and of developements of the modes and effects of 
the operations of the great geological agents ; especially of 
that element, which in time past has wrought such chan- 
ges, and is yet gradually and more unperceivedly produ- 
cing them ; where it has played all its frantic freaks, and 
then quietly left this spot with so few superimposed materi- 
als, that well developed phenomena may be leisurely ex- 
amined. ~ 

My design is first to give a general view of the rocks of 
Oregon — then state a few facts in the form of remarks or 
descriptions — and then add a brief catalogue of minerals 
found in this Territory. 

After leaving the great secondary valley of the Missis- 
sippi, near the Black Hills, which are a range of lesser 
mountains, east of the Rocky Mountains, the geologist be- 
gins to find rocks of the Carboniferous Group, obscurely 
manifest beneath the deep soil, and anthracite coal in loose 
fragments on the banks of streams running into the Platte. 
Among and beyond the Black Hills, the carboniferous strata 
are clearly seen, the coal " cropping out" and presenting 
precisely the same features as did the Wilksbarre beds in 
Pennsylvania, w,hen I saw them before they were worked. 
Here, for several days, we rode over rocks, interspersed 
now and then with anthracite, and having marks of the 
presence of iron, as is usual in regular coal deposits. 
Passing this, the geologist next reaches another group, 



328 GEOLOGY. 

either the upper secondary, or more recent rocks, lying at 
the foot of the Rocky Mountains. I was inclined to believe, 
from the fact that 1 was apparently geologically rising, as 
well as really ascending above the level of the ocean, that 
they were the latter. Red Shale, or sandstone, I found in 
what are termed the Red Butes. Perhaps this is New Red 
Sandstone. 

Reaching the Rocky Mountains, which are a continuation 
of the Andes, depressed in Mexico, Granite becomes abun- 
dant, and other primary rocks, extending to an unknown dis- 
tance north and south, and more than a hundred miles east 
and west. This section, mostly covered with perpetual 
snow, affords ample space for the study of glacial geologi- 
cal action, a subject now eliciting much attention. The 
valley through which we passed, remarkably indicates the 
overruling hand of Providence, in providing an easy pass, 
where no serious obstacle presents itself to the construction 
of a rail-road. This and other valleys would undoubtedly, 
with facilities for observation, give equal opportunities to 
discover the formation of this vast chain, as has been done 
in regard to the great rocky ranges of the Eastern Con- 
tinent. 

Advancing westward, and emerging from the Rocky 
Mountains, there is found immediately at their base Secon- 
dary Rocks ; but as we approach the borders of one of the 
great volcanic furnaces of the world, they are much bro- 
ken and tilted up, presenting some singular phenomena, 
which I have mentioned in the journal, such as the forma- 
tion of narrow ridges with the strata at different angles. In 
some places these dyke-like ridges are nearly regular in 
size and distance, as though cracked by an upheaving force, 
and the fissures filled afterwards with earth ; and in other 



GEOLOGY. 329 

places existing in wedge-form masses, interspersed between 
other rocks, and having other varieties of dislocation. The 
lithological character of the tract, over which we rode for 
two days, corresponds with that of the new red sandstone 
of the valley of the Connecticut. There are deposits both 
of the red and slaty colored strata — and their depth seems 
to be quite great, as is evinced by bluffs. But, as I observed 
no organic remains, my inclination to believe that these 
rocks are the new red sandstone, is founded only on their 
mineral character, and the fact, a very important one, that 
they appear directly to underlay the saliferous rocks, or to 
lie immediately above them. Should these rocks, which 
are quite extensive, prove to be new red sandstone, it adds 
no little to the interest of the geology of a country so rich 
in other respects. Perhaps, as red rocks of the same kind 
lie on each side of the Rocky Mountains, it may be proved 
hereafter, that the range was elevated through a deposit of 
shale or new red sandstone. 

Directly after leaving the red sandstone, and passing a 
belt of volcanic operations, which also are found among the 
red and slaty rocks just described, (as will be seen by ref- 
erence to the Trois Tetons, the Butes, and other conical 
mountains, as exhibited on the map,) Saliferous Rocks 
are seen. Here is Native Salt, Chloride of Sodium, and 
red, green, brown, and white strata of indurated marl, 
agreeing in character with the geological features of the 
Boehnia and Wieliezka mines of Poland. These rocks 
also occupy quite a tract of country, as we were sever- 
al days in passing them, and they seemed to reach both 
north and south of the locality of rock salt, as is proved 
by the existence of the great Salt Lake at the south ; 

and travelers assert that native rock salt is found to 

29 



330 GEOLOGY. 

the north, and especially far to the south, near the Rocky 
Mountain range.* 

We have now arrived at Oregon proper, and find it a vast 
amphitheatre of volcanic operations, where are exhibited in 
unexcelled magnificence, variety, and distinctness, the pro- 
ductions of several periods. 

The Greenstone, found in connexion with the new red 
sandstone and saline rocks, undoubtedly belongs to the 
same period as that of other countries. 

The Columnar Basalt, corresponding as it does with other 
similar eruptions in the eastern world, is probably cotempo- 
raneous with them. The same identity of time may be 
traced in regard to the trachyte, obsidian, clinkstone or 
phonolite, and other products, after allowing for difference 
of circumstances of pressure, and rapidity of refrigeration. 
Recent eruptions also have taken place. 

The traces of igneous action, commencing near the 
Rocky Mountains, or mountains adjacent to them, in the sec- 
ondary rocks are evinced by the disturbed state of these 
rocks, as already described, and grow more and more evi- 
dent until almost the whole region exhibits volcanic pro- 
ducts. In other places, the Primary of the Rocky Moun- 
tains, or mountains west of this range, first begins to be 
cracked and injected with dykes, then farther west termi- 
nates in the vast volcanic fields of upper and lower Oregon. 

It is in vain to attempt fully to describe the volcanic op- 
erations here presented. Mountains of amygdaloid, the 
cavities of which are mostly vacant ; volcanic conglomer- 
ate, detritus, columnar basalt, and disintegrated lava, every 
where abound, together with other less frequent produc- 

* See Ures' Geology, page 373, and Professor Rogers' Report to the 
British Geological Association. 



GEOLOGY. 331 

tions ; obsidian, clinkstone, pitchstone, and minerals found 
in the cavities of amygdaloid. The tops of hills and moun- 
tains are sometimes spread out into horizontal plains, others 
terminate in conical peaks, or are rounded like domes. 
Escarpments are frequently presented like that in the plate 
heading this chapter. Regular craters, presenting them- 
selves in the forms of cones and concave depressions, are 
often found in plains, or capping the summits of mountains ; 
most of them, however, are more or less obscured by the 
lapse of time, but still as marked as the extinct craters of 
the Sandwich Islands. The marked volcanic agency, man- 
ifesting itself in these and similar products, and completely 
occupying most of the country which we have termed upper 
and lower Oregon, continues to be evident until lost in the 
waters of the Pacific. In some places the Primary rocks 
seem again to be found on the western coast. Near the 
mouth of the Columbia I noticed a few Tertiary rocks lying 
in situ, and obtained a few shells belonging to this deposit. 
Whether there is on the North West Coast a regular Terti- 
ary basin, partly on shore, and the remainder under the 
ocean, remains to be determined. Queen Charlottes Island 
on the north is, at least in part, primary. Primary rocks 
rise in various parts of the country, and are like islands in 
the vast volcanic field. Such are the Salmon river moun- 
tains, and the granite and carbonate of lime near the Spo- 
kein river, and other places. 

We have thus glanced at the rocks of Oregon as we pass 
westward. In relation to their extent in a northerly and 
southerly direction, I am unable to say much. There is 
evidence that igneous action has extended from Queen 
Charlottes Island to California. I have already remarked 
on the extent of the Saliferous rocks. That they extend 



332 GEOLOGY. 

from north of the locality where I found native salt, south 
into Mexico, appears quite certain. 

Having remarked thus much in general terms, I will 
proceed to give a few facts without much order, some, if 
not all of which, might have been included in my descrip- 
tion of the great changes in the rocks. 

The plate at the head of this chapter demands a more 
definite explanation than has been given in former editions. 
It substantially describes frequent escarpments of volcanic 
rocks, such as are found in nearly every part of Oregon . 

The place designed to be represented by it,, is below the 
junction of the Coos-coots-ke with the Lewis river. With 
some variations it is applicable to a mural escarpment sev- 
eral miles below the Cascades on the Columbia. Similar 
mural escarpments are found in the Spokein country, and at 
the Grand Coule, or ancient bed of the Columbia. The 
needle-points on the right of the plate are found most dis- 
tinctly marked, about and just below the Cascades, though 
they occur at numerous other places. Indeed this is not an 
unfrequent form of basalt west of the Rocky Mountains. 

The first strata marked in the plate above what is intend- 
ed for the shore of the river, is irregular massive amygda- 
loid. In some localities similar to that from which the plate 
is taken, there is found a conglomerate underlaying this 
strata. The next or second strata of the plate, is volcanic 
breccia or conglomerate, composed of detritus, and angular 
fragments mixed with earthy matter, and is perhaps what 
some call volcanic tufa. This brecciated layer is more or 
less hard and compact, varying however very much in dif- 
ferent localities, and is in all cases only a few feet thick. 
The third strata is columnar basalt, regularly crystalized 
in pentagons about two feet in diameter. In other places 



GEOLOGY. 333 

they vary in size from one to four or more feet in diameter. 
It is in all the localities where I noticed it, closely jointed, 
with the convex surface upwards, like the basalt of the Gi- 
ant's Causeway. The fourth is a brecciated layer. The 
fifth on the left, is columnar basalt, and on the right, amyg- 
daloid in juxtaposition with the basalt. The sixth is a brec- 
ciated layer. The seventh and uppermost is a semi-crys- 
talized basalt on the left, and needle-pointed basalt on the 
right. The semi-crystalized basalt very nearly resembles 
the Palisades on the Hudson River, and the greenstone of 
East and West Rocks at New Haven, and the more distinct 
crystals found in Mt. Tom and Mt. Holyoke. For the latter 
see Hitchcock's Geo. 1st ed. page 73. 

In a description of bluffs and banks of rivers, where 
there are mural escarpments similar to that from which the 
plate is taken, I have numbered from ten to twenty strata of 
amygdaloid, basalt, and brecciated layers, which appear to 
have been thrown up in different periods, through craters, 
fissures or chasms, rising m succession one above another. 
In some locations the lowest formation is pudding stone ; on 
this amygdaloid, varying in thickness from a few feet to 
twenty or thirty ; and then above this a stratum of angular 
fragments- of basalt and. amygdaloid, frequently intermixed 
with lava, which I have termed the brecciated layer. This 
strata generally appears to have been exposed for a period 
to atmospheric agencies, until in some degree decomposed, 
and upon this the alternating strata as described above, in- 
dicating so many different eruptions ; the whole series rising 
from fifty to several hundred feet. The brecciated layers 
are only a few feet in depth, and appear to have been for a 
long - period the surface, after which a new eruption has 

again overspread the whole. In one section of the high 

29* 



334 GEOLOGY. 

walls of the Grand Coule, far up the sides, instead of the 
breccia is presented a depth of yellow earth of six or eight 
feet, and above this several strata of basalt and amygdaloid, 
as above described, in like manner exhibiting proof that this 
section for a long time constituted the surface. Thus it 
appears that the internal fires have had long intervals of re- 
pose, and then have again sent forth their volcanic sub- 
stances. The probability is, that they were thus in opera- 
tion for centuries, but with a few exceptions, have ceased 
for centuries past, so that time has been given for atmos- 
pheric agencies to decompose the volcanic productions, suf- 
ficiently to form a soil covering most parts of the country. 
The enquiry naturally arises, whether it may not be on ac- 
count of the great internal fires of this country, that the 
temperature is so much warmer on the west side of the 
mountains than on the east ; for it is an interesting fact, that 
the eastern side of North America, in given parallels of 
latitude, is the coldest, while the western in the same par- 
allels, is the warmest part of the world. And may not this 
arise from the comparative recency, as well as extent and 
depth of the volcanic operations, which have pervaded this 
whole region of the setting sun.* The length of time, during 
which immense masses of lava and other volcanic matter 
retain heat, is well known, and needs no remark. May 
not the climate thus be affected in Oregon ? 

Among other localities of columnar basalt, the columns 
of which are regular crystalized pentagons, a distinguish - 



* By reference to the annexed meteorological table it will be seen, 
from observations taken between the 45th and 46th degrees of north 
latitude, that in the winter of 1835 — 6, the greatest cold was but 10° 
below the freezing point, and this for three mornings only — and du- 
ring the month of March, there were but two mornings in which there 
was any frost. 



GEOLOGY. 335 

ed one is on the high lands dividing the waters of the Snake 
and Spokein rivers. The formations of this locality have 
many interesting characteristics, as described on page 295. 
Another below the Cascades of the Columbia, where the 
regular pentagonal columns wall up the north side for the 
distance of half a mile. Here are also found all the va- 
rieties of volcanic productions ; — volcanic peaks, as diver- 
sified in their forms as they are numerous, being conical, 
denticulated, and needle-pointed ; varying in magnitudes, 
and rising one above another from ten feet to fifteen hun- 
dred feet. These occur almost entirely upon the south 
side of the river. There are also numerous islands of 
basalt in the Columbia river and its branches, eleva- 
ted, often much above high freshet water. These are nu- 
merous in the La Dalles, and in the ancient bed of the 
Columbia, or Grand Coule. These Islands are the same 
in form and substance as the dykes which exist in vari- 
ous parts of the country. There is something similar to 
these Needles in what I have termed the Pillars, where 
one or two such needles occur alone, and rise some hun- 
dred feet. They are basalt, and so hard and compara- 
tively smooth, that I can account in no other way for their 
production, than that they are dykes, which have been 
injected into soft rock, or soil, which has since been re- 
moved by other agencies. The most remarkable in- 
stance of this is the Pillar Rock at the lower part of the 
rapids, below the Cascades, at the head of the tide water 
of the Columbia. It is about five hundred feet high ; and 
is perpendicular on the river side, and nearly so on the 
other sides ; and is wholly isolated upon a narrow strip 
of bottom land, with a small base, and in its appearance 
resembles a vast monument. Another such needle is found 



336 GEOLOGY. 

in the river near the mouth of the Columbia, and standing 
alone it makes a very conspicuous object. 

Another result of volcanic agency is seen in the Primary 
rocks, in which are cracks or fissures, through which gas- 
eous products have escaped, without forming a crater, and 
indeed without ejecting any igneous solid matter. One lo- 
cality of this kind presents a result somewhat peculiar. It 
is on elevated land near the Spokein river, where there are 
hundreds of regular cones, varying from a few feet in diam- 
eter and height, to a hundred or more in diameter at their 
base, and fifty or sixty feet high. They are made up of 
angular fragments of granite, from an inch to six or eight 
-inches in size, and stand on a sandy plain now sparsely 
covered with yellow pine, apparently disturbed only at the 
places where these cones have broken through it. At a 
short distance south is granite in situ. Near these cones 
there is a large dyke, visible a hundred rods or more, the 
only other evidence of a disturbing force. These piles of 
fragments seem to have been made by the escape of steam 
or gas ; for they appear as if smoked by a fire from within 
the cones. The Salmon river mountains afford another 
example similar to this. An irregular circular space of 
a hundred acres or more, is covered with immense quan- 
tities of granite broken into cubical and angular frag- 
ments, as though prepared for Macadamizing the future 
turnpikes of Oregon. 

These mountains, though mere islands of granite and 
mica slate in the great volcanic field, are quite extensive, 
and in addition to the breaking up of the granite by ig- 
neous forces, they are also perforated by vents or chim- 
neys, through which lava has escaped. One of the highest 
points of the mountains which lay in my route was of this 



GEOLOGY. 337 

sort. It is a granite mountain, with the top capped by a 
volcanic cone, rising like an immense pyramid. The 
passage in some places of granite into basalt, is easily 
traced, and the first igneous appearance is not a change 
of the structure, but multiplied fractures increase until 
you find the granite broken into large fragments ; and 
these diminishing in size, until they disappear in the dis- 
tinct characteristics of volcanic agency, in which it is 
changed into a substance resembling trachyte, if it has not 
become trachyte itself, while in situ. Smaller sections of 
granite are scattered over the country in forms of less di- 
mensions, protruding from the earth ; but these are of some- 
what rare occurrence. 

We have said that recent igneous action has taken place . 
A well authenticated instance occurred in August 1831. 
There was at this time at Fort Vancouver and vicinity, an 
uncommonly dark day, which was thought to have been 
caused by an eruption of a volcano. The whole day was 
nearly as dark as night, except a slight red, lurid appear- 
ance, which was perceptible until near night. Lighted can- 
dles were necessary through the day. The atmosphere was 
filled with ashes, which were very light, like the white ashes 
of wood ; all having the appearance of being produced by 
great fires, and yet none were known to have been in any 
part of the whole region around. The day was perfectly 
calm, without any wind. For a few days after, the fires 
out of doors were noticed to burn with a bluish flame, as 
though mixed with sulphur. There were no earthquakes. 
By observations which were made after the atmosphere be- 
came clear, it was thought the pure, white, perpetual snow 
upon Mount St. Helens was discolored, presenting a brown 
appearance, and therefore it was concluded, that there had 



338 GEOLOGY. 

been upon it a slight eruption.* The Indians say they have 
seen fires in the chasms of Mount Hood. TilkT, the first 
chief of the La Dalles Indians, who is a man of more than 
ordinary talents, said he had frequently seen fires in the fis- 
sures of rocks in the last named mountain. f 

Though I have improved every opportunity which has 
been presented to make observations, and have also made 
many enquiries of men who have traveled extensively and 
for a long time in different parts of this country, some of 
whom are men of science, yet no evidence of fossil remains 
have been noticed, with the exception of a very few speci- 
mens. I saw a small shell, a Turritella, which was found in 
a mountain south of Mount Hood, in the Callapooa country. 
Also a few miles up the Columbia river, on the south shore 
of the bay, I found some very large petrified bivalve shells, 
embedded in calcarious sandstone of the Tertiary formation. 
The largest specimens which I took, measure, longitudinal- 
ly, four and a half inches from the hinge, and transversely, 
five. They are very perfect, beautifully scalloped, and 
have all the lustre of living shells. 

Since the channel of the Columbia, in many parts, is 
walled up on its sides, and studded with islands of basaltic 
rocks, rising in perpendicular height from twenty to four 
hundred feet ; the question forces itself upon the mind, what 
agency formed the channel of the Columbia and other rivers 
in this country, flowing through ridges and mountains of 
hard basalt ? Undoubtedly the action of water has worn 
the rock very considerably and effected changes, but per- 

* This was the opinion of Doct. Gardner, a distinguished naturalist, 
from England, who was present at the time. 

t Since the publication of the above in other editions, I have been 
credibly informed that lava was ejected at that time from Mount St. 
Helen. 



GEOLOGY. 339 

haps by no principle of its action can it be supposed, that it 
has produced so long and so deep a channel, as the one 
through which the river flows, and through such solid rock 
formations, differing but little from irOn in hardness. That 
the channel of rivers owe their existence to other causes 
than the action of water, is no new idea. Indeed very 
many are now described as formed otherwise. In relation 
to the channels of the Connecticut river and its branches, 
see Prof. Hitchcock's Geo. page 167, 1st edit. While I 
believe that Providence operates by means, yet I doubt not 
there are phenomena which are, and ever may remain unre- 
solved. While conversing in relation to the channel of the 
Columbia with some literary gentlemen, who had frequent- 
ly passed up and down this river, after several theories were 
proposed, none of which could bear the test even of proba- 
bility, one of them remarked, he had been reminded of his 
boyish sports, when he had dammed up water, and then with 
his finger drawn a channel through . the sand for the water 
to run ; so it seemed to him that God had drawn a channel 
for the Columbia. 

If we do not keep in view the overruling hand of God as 
a landmark in our investigations, but look to nature, at 
work in her great laboratory, the earth, as our only guide 
to teach us precisely how the earth was formed, we shall, 
at least, be in danger of wandering into mazes from which 
we shall not be able easily to extricate ourselves. 

The condition of the country on the western side of the 
Rocky Mountains differing in almost every particular from 
that on the eastern side, may render the common assump- 
tion doubtful, that different genera and species of plants and 
animals, designate distinct formations and distinct periods 
of time, in which such formations took place. And if it 



340 GEOLOGY. 

was known to be true, that the same genera and species of 
animals and plants had their existence in the same period 
of time, in all countries of the same climate, or in corres- 
ponding latitudes, then the age of different formations might 
be better known by fossil remains. But it is a fact, that 
the genera and species of animals and plants may differ 
widely and materially in the same country, age, and lat- 
itude. This is now the case in North America, on the east 
and west sides of the Rocky Mountains ; which gives us a 
view and shows what may be the truth in relation to re- 
gions of the earth, perhaps regarded as belonging to differ- 
ent periods, though in fact contemporaneous. Yet in all 
such cases marks of isochronism, or the. want of it, doubt- 
less could be found, and with proper care would convince 
the experienced geologist of their diversity or identity in 
time. 

Compare the two sides of North America as they now 
are, and notice the difference which exists in animals and 
productions. Let now the whole of the northern part of 
this continent be submerged, and after a long time be again 
elevated to its present position, and let future generations 
examine its fossil remains, and by the rules very general- 
ly laid down, would they not conclude that the section on 
the east side, and that on the west side of the mountains, 
indicate two different periods of submersion, and that there 
was a long intermediate period of tranquility between them ? 
Would not the different genera and species of vegetables 
and animals lead to this conclusion ? Would they not, from 
the evident difference of temperature of climate in the 
same latitudes on the east and on the west, conclude, (if there 
was not a careful search made for other marks to show 
disparity or identity of time, ) that the western section was 



GEOLOGY. 341 

submerged, at a period when the earth was much warmer 
than at a period when the eastern section was submerged ? 
This would be a rational and legitimate conclusion from 
the rule that in strata of the same class, dissimilar organic 
remains belong to a different period of time, and were de- 
posited under a different condition of the globe. And the 
gigantic balsam firs found in the west and not found in the 
east, would as clearly prove a different climate in the same 
latitude, and therefore a different period of submersion, as 
the gigantic ferns prove a different temperature of the earth, 
and. of course a different period of time, in which they were 
deposited. 

On the west side, the enormous balsam firs, measuring 
from five to eight feet in diameter, and between one and two 
hundred feet in height, would be found so numerous as to 
constitute whole forests ; and also the alder of various di- 
ameters, from the small to those of one foot, and proportion- 
ably tall ; and the rush varying from four to ten feet long, 
and proportionably large. While the fir, the alder, and 
rush, would be found on the east side, they would be mere 
dwarfs in comparison with those on the west, and also very 
sparse. And many genera of trees and plants would be 
found on one side, which would not be found on the other. 
On the west there would be no walnut, chestnut, sugar ma- 
ple, elm, and many other kind of trees. And of animals, 
there would not be found any of the present fossils of the 
east ; nor the ox, the ass, the swine, nor common sheep — the 
buffalo would be found east and in the mountains, but not 
numerous beyond. To what strange conclusions, without 
great care and close examination, should we come, if such 
data simply were received ! If such is now the difference 

of vegetables and animals, between the country on the east, 

30 



842 GEOLOGY. 

and the country on the west of our continent, and in the 
same latitude, may not mistakes be made in regard to diffe- 
rent formations, and different periods of time in which they 
have taken place. Especially when periods are so remote, 
and the tninute exploration of the earth confined to so small 
limits. 

No doubts need be indulged, but that such advances may 
and will be made in the science of geology, that it will be- 
come one of the strong corroborating evidences of the inspi- 
ration of the scriptures, without departing from the obvious 
meaning of any part of the inspired language. The books 
of nature, of providence, and of revelation harmonize ; and 
it is owing to our darkened and limited understandings, and 
the imperfections of our knowledge, that we have any diffi- 
culty in seeing their harmony ; and the more correct knowl- 
edge we gain of them, the more we shall see and admire 
their coincidence. 

Far the greatest part of the soil of Oregon is formed from 
decomposed lava and other like substances, reduced by at- 
mospheric agencies, which forms a -fine rich black mold. 
Some parts, however, are in a different condition ; such as 
the great desert of the Shoshones or Snake country, which 
lies between two ranges of mountains, and extends three 
hundred or more miles in a southeasterly direction, with 
an average width of about one hundred miles. This desert, 
occupying as it does so many square miles, is to a great 
extent covered with scoria and other volcanic matter, which 
from their nature renders it a barren region. Other tracts 
of country are argillaceous. In several localities, escarp- 
ments of clay, diversified in structure, are presented. The 
layers are from a few inches, to twenty feet in thickness. 
Their colors are dusky red, brown, blue, green, yellow, 



GEOLOGY. 343 

and in some instances pure white, and not unfrequently 
more or less indurated. Still, other tracts are calcarious ; 
and some parts, especially near the Rocky Mountains, are 
covered with a silicious sand, mixed with volcanic detritus ; 
while few, and only few parts of the country afford vegeta- 
ble mold. 

By reference to- the map between Okanagan and Walla 
Walla, the dotted line, as will be seen, describes the Grand 
Coule. By some cause, probably volcanic, the Columbia 
has been turned from its ancient bed, and made to take a 
new and more circuitous course. The old channel has isl- 
ands rising above what was once the level of the water : 
and as previously mentioned, high mural escarpments are 
found on its sides. 

Another fact worthy to be mentioned, is the subsidence on 
the Columbia. • It is twenty or more miles long, and about 
a mile wide. See page 142. 

What I suppose to be another subsidence occurs on the 
summit level which divides the waters of the Snake and 
Spokein rivers. See page 295. 

Rivers are found which disappear and again reappear 
from under volcanic products, which is no new phenomena 
in other volcanic countries. Two such rivers are put down 
on the map south of Henry's Fork. 

Limestone does not abound here : indeed it is questiona- 
ble whether it exists except in very detached and small 
quantities. One location of magnesian limestone, I observ- 
ed in the neighborhood of the Sulphur Spring, which I have 
already described. The lime used at Fort Vancouver, is 
made of rock coral, imported for ballast in vessels return- 
ing from the Sandwich Islands. In the vicinity of the Sul- 
phur Spring was a quantity, though not very extensive, of 



844 GEOLOGY. 

gypsum. The only marble I noticed was a mountain situ- 
ated a short distance below the confluence of the Spokein 
with the Columbia. In parts which I examined, I discover- 
ed it to be saccharine white, and variegated blue. A spe- 
cimen of the first I have preserved. Situated as it is on a 
navigable river, it will most probably become in time a 
source of wealth. 

In the region of Pierre's Hole, and still farther west, there 
is clinkstone of marked and distinctive character, in great 
abundance, and in the same vicinity obsidian in large quan- 
tities. From the dark color of this, and also of basalt gen- 
erally, I detected the presence of augite. Obsidian is found 
in very many places throughout the country ; and towards 
the ocean in small quantities it is a resinous white. 

Lava is abundant in many places, in all the varieties of 
color in which it is usually found, sometimes dusky red, 
yellowish, gray, and black, of different degrees of hardness 
and gravity, some being compact, some cellular, and often 
so light as to float upon water. Trachyte is also found 
among the varieties of lava. 

Most of the varieties of the precious stones, such as cal- 
cedony, agate, jasper, and cornelian, are found in diffe- 
rent sections of the country, but more frequently upon the 
shores of the Columbia, Willamette, and the large branches 
of these rivers. While they vary in size, forms, and colors, 
many of them are very pure and beautiful, and might be 
improved to great brilliancy in the hands of the artist. Por- 
phyry of different textures and quality is frequently met with, 
some of which resembles the precious stones in fineness. 

I saw no anthracite coal after leaving the region of the 
Black Hills on the east of the mountains ; bituminous coal, 
of which I saw a quantity, is obtained from a locality 



GEOLOGY. 345 

near Pugets Sound, and brought for use to Fort Vancou- 
ver. 

It is an interesting fact, that Mineral Rock Salt exists in 
its native state, in a section of mountains on the south side 
of the Salmon river, before entering the Salmon river moun- 
tains. It crops out from the side of a mountain, a little 
above the base. I saw the mine and examined specimens of 
it, and took of it for future use. It is pure and white, and 
contains less of the water of crystalization than common 
salt. The geological formations in the immediate vicinity, 
so nearly resemble those described in the neighborhood of 
the mineral salt mines of Poland, as to induce the belief that 
it exists in great abundance. It was peculiarly grateful to 
me in the circumstances in which I was placed, and the best 
testimony I can give to the quality is, that I. found it very 
useful when compelled to subsist on game. 

Salt is also found in a crystalized state upon the shores of 
the great Salt Lake, the waters of which are so strongly 
impregnated, that-large quantities are deposited. How wise 
and kind is the disposition of the products of nature, and 
how well adapted to the wants of all his creatures has the 
hand of a beneficent Father distributed his blessings ; and 
here, at so great a remove from all the facilities of com- 
merce, He has laid up in store one of the most necessary 
and important articles of domestic use. 

But few Mineral Springs have as yet been' discovered. 
The most remarkable are, the Soda fountain on Bear river, 
about forty-five miles north of Salt Lake, remarkable for the 
quantity of carbonic acid gas which is evolved, but not hav- 
ing been analyzed, its particular mineral properties are not 
ascertained, and the general remark only can be made, that 
it greatly, resembles the Saratoga waters ; — the Sulphur 

ao* 



846 GEOLOGY. 

Spring to the south of the Trois Tetons, on a branch of Hen- 
ry's fork, around which large quantities of pure sulphur are 
deposited, and from which sulphureted hydrogen escapes, 
and its annoying properties are perceptible more than eighty 
rods distant ; — and the hot springs in the great range of the 
Rocky Mountains, some of which are said to furnish the 
mountain men a convenient place to boil their food. 

Sulphate of magnesia, (epsom salts,) purely native, exists- 
in immense quantities in and on both sides of the mountains. 
Lakes or pools, which the heat of summer principally evap- 
orates, abound in this region, exhibiting crystalized salts in 
great quantities. Spicular crystals of the same salt shoot 
up on the surface of the ground, and effloresce to such a 
degree as to present the appearance of fields whitened with 
snow. 

No indications of Metalic Ores have yet been noticed in 
any part of Oregon Territory ; and probably when metals 
are found, they will not be in their oxyds, but reduced by 
the intense heat of the volcanoes to their massive state, 



GENERAL REMARKS. 347 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

General remarks— passage in the steam-ship Beaver down the river — 
take passage on board the barque Columbia — detention in Chenook 
bay— great cave— Codfish, the first ever taken in this bay. 

Having explored the most important parts of this terri- 
tory, and gained all the information within my reach, as to 
the several objects proposed in my instructions from the 
Board of Foreign Missions ; and especially having ascer- 
tained to my entire satisfaction two most prominent facts, 
namely, the entire practicability of penetrating with safety 
to any and every portion of the vast interior, and the dispo- 
sition of the natives in regard to my mission among them, 
it remained that the most feasible and expeditious mode of 
returning should next be consulted. I could expect to ac- 
quire but little additional knowledge in traversing the route 
to Rendezvous ; and the necessary delay of several months, 
it seemed could be avoided by a return by water. The 
Hudson Bay Company were about to send a ship to the 
Sandwich Islands, in which I was kindly offered a gra- 
tuitous passage. On the other hand, my friendship with 
gentlemen of this establishment, my regard for the spiritual 
welfare of the benighted men, for whose good, I had for 
many a weary day pursued my object over mountains and 
plains, hills and valleys, through all the vicissitudes of cli- 
mate and weather ; and especially a desire to see in this 
whitened field, the returning laborers I expected, and to be 



348 REFLECTIONS. 

able to give them personally, instead of by letter, the result 
of my collected information^ as a guide to them in their in- 
cipient labors ; all these held me riveted to the spot, and un- 
decided as to my course. At length after consultation with 
my most judicious friends, I concluded to take passage in 
the barque Columbia for Oahu, in the hope that an early 
opportunity would present to return to the United States. 

In taking leave of this country and the work in which f 
have so long been engaged, a train of reflections crowds 
upon my mind. The future condition of this noble race of 
men, is a subject of interesting enquiry to many others as 
well as to myself. Whether the Indians are to pass away 
before the increasing power and numbers of white men, or 
whether enlightened and improved by their philanthropy, 
they shall arise in the scale of intellectual and moral ex- 
istence, is a problem which time alone can solve. I entered 
on the work of exploring this field with no bias or precon- 
ceived opinion, and from critical and personal observation, 
I hesitate not to say that I can see no reason existing in the 
nature of things, or in their present condition, which ne- 
cessarily dooms the race to annihilation on the one hand, or 
on the other, necessarily makes them objects of apprehen- 
sion, as the future hordes who shall in coming time, like the 
northern barbarians of Roman days] be reserved as the 
scourge of an overgrown and decaying republic. If to do 
good be an object worthy of humanity or religion, I see not 
why a consistent and persevering attempt to raise a race of 
freemen from their depression, and to place them in the 
rank of intelligent men, be not an undertaking fraught with 
as much promise and encouragement, as it was in earlier 
days to elevate our ancestors. In favor of this opinion, we 
have the docility of the Indians in every thing pertaining 



REFLECTIONS. 349 

to their improvement ; in the sprightliness of their youth 
and children ; and in the amiableness of their native tern- 
pers and dispositions. I take nothing of this upon testimony. 
In all my intercourse with them, I saw with only one ex- 
ception, no angry or malevolent passions in exercise in their 
little communities. 

I tremble for the consequences, when I reflect on the 
wrongs inflicted upon this race of men. Able pens have 
portrayed in vivid colors, their injuries and abuses, and hu- 
manity has wept. Were but the one hundredth part spread 
out to view, we should recoil at the sight. The life of an 
Indian, in the estimation of our border and refugee men 
who visit their country, is nothing worth. Theirs is a 
land where white men regard no law ; but superior cun- 
ning and superior force bear rule. It was related to me 
that Captain S. an English officer in half pay, while trav- 
eling through the Indian country, lost a horse which he 
highly valued, and believing it to be stolen by an Indian, 
offered five hundred dollars for his head. One of a law- 
less band, a half Indian who was present, went in pursuit, 
and returned with the head of the person charged with 
the theft, and demanded his reward^ To make out the 
sum Captain S. gave him two horses, calling each 8250. 
Thus ended the affair. Mr. Wyeth, in a memoir, em- 
bodied in a Report of a Committee of Congress, on the 
Oregon question, says, " The preponderance of bad char- 
acter is so great amongst traders and their people, that 
crime carries with it little or no shame. I have heard it 
related among white American trappers, as a good joke, 
that a trapper who had said he would shoot any Indian, 
whom he could catch stealing his traps, was seen one morn- 
ing to kill one ; and, on being asked if the Indian had sto- 



350 DEPARTURE FOR SANDWICH ISLANDS. 

len his traps, he answered " No, but he looked as if he was 
going to." These are only specimens. 

I have been much pleased to notice among the benevolent 
operations of the present day, the formation of a society in 
England, which I regard as among not the least benevolent, 
viz : "An Aborigines Protection Society," from whose " Plan 
and Objects," I quote, as expressing very fully my own sen- 
timents. " Among these tribes, our imported diseases pro- 
duce frightful ravages, our ardent spirits deprave and con- 
sume their population, our unjust laws exclude them from 
enjoying that first element of well-ordered societies, judicial 
protection, as well as from the possibility of a timely incor- 
poration with colonial communities ; while, in addition to 
all these evils, our neglect of suitable means and methods 
of improvement, prevents that adoption of civilized manners 
and customs to which they are inclined. It is impossible 
for us as men, patriots, philanthropists, or Christians, to be- 
hold without anxiety, the ruin of the people whom we are 
accessary in supplanting, unless our future modes of colo- 
nization be directed with greater humanity and wisdom than 
in times past." 

On the 18th of June, according to previous arrangements, 
I took passage in the steam-ship Beaver for Fort George, 
to join the barque Columbia for the Sandwich Islands. As 
the Beaver was commencing her first voyage upon the 
Pacific, under the power of steam, destined for the north- 
west coast, the people of the fort, and those residing around, 
assembled upon the shore of the Columbia, and as she moved 
majestically from her anchorage, they saluted us with cheers, 
which were reciprocated by all on board, and they responded, 
" A happy voyage, a prosperous voyage." The ship an- 
chored at night a little above Tongue Point ; and the next 



GREAT CAVE. 351 

day, after being detained upon a sand bar, from which the 
tide after awhile set us free, we arrived at Fort George. 
The next day, the 20th, with my friend Mr. Finlayson, and 
a few others I took a ramble on the shores below. The ver- 
dure of the trees and plants, the red indigenous clover in full 
sweetness in the desert, and the mildness of the season, all 
combined to make the scene enchanting. It was on the shore 
of this bay where I collected the large bivalve shell petri- 
factions, embedded in calcarious sandstone of the Tertiary 
formation, as described in the chapter foregoing. No vol- 
canic appearances were visible in the immediate vicinity. 

On the 21st, I embarked on board the Columbia, and 
we dropped down to the Chenook Bay, and anchored just 
above Cape Disappointment. Here, for the want of favor- 
able wind and tide, we were detained until the 28th. While 
we continued here, I made several excursions on shore ; as- 
cended the cape, which is probably about four hundred'feet 
high, and from which a fine prospect of the Pacific and its 
shores is presented as far as the eye can reach. The shore 
is generally bold and rocky, furnishing no other harbor 
near. The country around is rocky and densely covered 
with forests, and the scenery is wild. Near the shore, on 
the west end of the cape, a large cave extends into the vol- 
canic rocks the distance of one hundred and fifty feet. We 
penetrated into its gloomy recesses, and from the bones of 
animals strewed around within, we concluded it must be 
the retreat of some of those beasts of prey which inhabit 
these forests and coasts. 

About the cape, at different places, grow the large or- 
ange-yellow raspberries, of a new species, upon shrubbery 
which often grows to the height of twenty feet, and more 
generally in the forests than in the open places, but equally 



352 CODFISH. 

fruitful. They are more inviting to the eye than agreea- 
ble to the taste. 

While we were detained here, our men belonging to the 
Columbia caught a large number of codfish. In taste and 
appearance, they very much resemble those taken upon the 
banks of Newfoundland, excepting they are a little shorter. 
This is the first time they were known to exist in these wa- 
ters ; the Indians knew nothing of them before, and they 
eagerly took those we did not need. 



VOYAGE TO OAHT7. 353 



CHAPTER XXV. 

Departure for the Sandwich Islands — Arrival at the Islands— worship 
in the native church— description of Oahu— the Pari— the valley 
of Manoa — description of Honolulu— of Waititi — heathen temple 
— Eva--Waialua— Keneohe — mountains -salt lake — natural pro- 
ductions — animals— government-tea party of the royal family — 
dinner to the officers of the Peacock and Enterprise— decrease of 
population— unfair negotiations — foreign residents — charity school 
— seamen's chapel— burying place of the royal family — missiona- 
ry success. 

On the 25th, the bar being smooth, with only a light wind, 
though ahead, and the tide favoring, the Beaver weighed 
anchor and put out to sea for her northern voyage. She 
went over the bar finely, and could have towed us over, 
but it being her first experiment, it was not thought ad- 
visable. 

On Tuesday the 28th, the wind and tide were favorable 
for passing the bar, and we set sail at half past three in the 
afternoon. There was a heavy rolling sea ; and every man 
was at his post, one on each side of the ship constantly throw, 
ing the lead to take the sounding. Four fathoms and a half 
was the least, and this was little enough considering the 
heavy swell. The bar has a very bold termination; for 
we passed from seven fathoms to no sounding, where the 
sea presented its dark blue. The land receded, and in a 
few hours disappeared : and nothing was to be seen but one 
wide expanse of ocean. Our voyage to Oahu,* Sandwich 



* Pronounced Wauhoo. 
31 



354 ARRIVAL AT 0AHT7. 

Islands, was attended with nothing remarkable, except- 
ing that it was performed in much shorter time than usual, 
being only sixteen days from the time we left the Colum- 
bia river, to our anchoring in the roads of Honolulu. We 
took our direct course, and kept it without any variation, 
and with a few exceptions without shortening a sail, the 
distance of two thousand five hundred miles. An almost 
entire uniformity marked our progress, and excepting the 
common alternations of day and night, sunshine and clouds, 
nothing interrupted the monotony of the scene. 

On the morning of the 14th of July, land was announced. 
The islands of Ranai and Morakai were near, and as we 
passed them, we had a near view of the latter. It is not 
so mountainous as most others of the group, and presented 
rather a sterile aspect. We soon after made Oahu, and 
passed on the east side around Diamond Hill to the harbor 
of Honolulu on the south. This harbor is the best and 
almost the only good one in any of the groups of the Poly- 
nesian Islands. The entrance is somewhat intricate, and 
an experienced pilot is required to take ships in safely. 
Within the coral reefs the water is sufficiently deep for 
ships of almost any magnitude ; and this, with the long 
extended roads without the reefs which afford good anchor- 
age, renders the port desirable, and the island, in a com- 
mercial point of view, the most important of any in this part 
of the Pacific ocean. 

We went on shore, two o'clock in the afternoon, and I 
was invited by Rev. H. Bingham to his house, where I met 
several of the other missionaries, and felt much rejoiced 
to behold again a Christian community. 

The heat of a vertical sun was very oppressive and ener- 
vating, and was it not for the refreshing effects of the daily 



PUBLIC WORSHIP — THE PARI. 355 

north-east trade winds, it would be insupportable to a north- 
ern constitution. 

On Sabbath 17th, I attended worship in the native church, 
and heard Rev. Mr. Bingham preach in the Hawaiian lan- 
guage to a very large assembly of natives, probably two 
thousand five hundred, who gave very good attention. They 
were all decently dressed ; while some of them were in the 
European mode, the most of them were dressed in their na- 
tive costume, and made a good appearance. Their conduct 
and attention were very becoming, and many listened with 
deep interest. Madam Kinau, the queen regent, and the 
royal family, were present ; and although it was easy to 
distinguish them from the common people, yet they made 
no ostentatious display of royalty. Their dress was rich, 
but plain, and they paid sober attention to the worship of 
God. The performance of the singers was good, but there 
was not that melody in their voices which characterizes- the 
Indians. 

The house of worship is large and commodious, one hun- 
dred and ninety feet long and sixty-two feet wide, built in 
the native style, with the roof and sides covered with thatch. 

Oahu is the most northern of the Sandwich Islands, situa- 
ted in north latitude 21° 18' and in west longitude 158° 
38'. Its greatest length is forty-five miles from Koka on 
the south-east to Kakana on the north-west. The greatest 
portion of the island is on the north-east of this line. Its 
greatest breadth is twenty-eight miles from Kahuku on the 
north to Laeloa (Barber's Point) on the south ; about four- 
fifths of the island is on the east of this line. The island 
is very mountainous ; the highest eminence is called Hona- 
huanui, and is a little over four thousand feet. The Pari, 
at the upper end of the valley of Nuuanu x north of Hono- 



356 DECISIVE BATTLE. 

lulu, may be counted among the curiosities of the island ; 
principally on account of its being a part of the main 
road, or rather the only one to Keneohe. It is one thou- 
sand one hundred and forty feet above the level of the sea, 
and six hundred feet nearly perpendicular. This is to be 
clambered up and down in passing from Honolulu to Kene- 
hoe, and to a stranger it is a fearful undertaking, as it is 
necessary to have a native to assist in putting your feet into 
the crevices of the rocks. And yet the natives pass up and 
down with their calabashes of poi, and their loads of mel- 
ons, fish, and other commodities, without any difficulty more 
than fatigue. 

Some years ago, in a war between Tamehameha and the 
king of Oahu, the final battle was fought here which decided 
the fate of the island. The king of Oahu made a desperate 
struggle ; and one part of his routed army, numbering more 
than three hundred, were pursued to this precipice, forced 
down, and almost all were dashed to pieces. 

On each side of this pass, needle-pointed mountains rise 
up two thousand feet, forming a narrow chasm, through 
which the north-east trade winds rush with great violence. 
Before you, at the north, you have a very pleasing view of 
the fertile valley of Kolou ; and beyond is a fine prospect 
of the bay and wide spread ocean. The valley between the 
Pari and Honolulu is seven miles long ; the upper part of 
which is. narrow and very picturesque. Interesting cas- 
cades are seen dashing down the almost perpendicular 
mountains, and the whole scenery is covered with fresh 
foliage. This was almost the only place where the cool and 
invigorating breezes gave me relief from the oppressive heat. 
The lower part of the valley is wide, and covered to a great 
extent with taro patches. 



VALLEY OF MANOA. 357 

Taro is a bulbous plant of the genus arum, and is planted 
in hills upon patches of ground, so formed as to be partially- 
flooded with water, somewhat after the manner of rice cul- 
tivation. In eight or ten months after setting the plants, 
they are fit for use. To prepare it for food, it is always ne- 
cessary to roast it, to take out the pungency which is common 
to this genus, as found in the wild turnep. It is frequently 
eaten for bread with no other preparation except roasting ; 
or it is converted into poi by pulverising and making it into 
a stiff paste. The natives prefer the poi after it has under- 
gone the acetic fermentation. 

East of this valley is another called Manoa, about five 
miles in length, running north from Diamond Hill. It is 
well watered by streams descending from the mountains, 
formed by showers of rain which frequently fall upon them, 
and which sometimes extend to the valleys and plains. Its 
fertile soil' is well cultivated with sweet potatoes, taro, and 
melons. At the upper end, Kaahumanu, the late queen re- 
gent, who died in 1832, had a house built for retirement 
from the bustle of Honolulu, and for devotion, near a beau- 
tiful cool grove of olxia and kukui* trees, on an eminence 
commanding a view of the valley below. Near this dwell- 
ing, she caused a house to be built for the accommodation 
of the missionaries, when they should wish for rest, and to 
be refreshed with the invigorating air of the mountains. 
The evidences of her Christian character were convincing. 

o 

Her piety was active. She traveled through all the islands, 
from time to time, to see that the people attended upon the 
means of religious instruction, and the schools ; and to rec- 



* The kukui tree bears a nut as large as a black walnut, a string of 
which is used for candles, and hence the tree is called the candle tree. 

31* 



358 HONOLULU". 

ommend'the religion of the Bible to all classes of her sub- 
jects. Her example, as well as her authority, was power- 
ful in suppressing intemperance, and the many vices which 
threatened the ruin of her country. Her influence was felt 
not only by her own people, but also by foreigners who re- 
sorted to these islands. 

When I visited this spot of remembrances, the buildings 
were far gone to decay ; but not the cherished regard of her 
piety and philanthropy. This spot presented a very plea- 
sing view of the high and precipitous mountains around on 
every side, excepting the south, which is open and exhibits 
to view the grandeur of the rolling ocean. The many cas- 
cades around upon the mountain sides added to the interest 
of the scenery. Among the variety of shrubbery, we found 
the coffee tree with its fruit in various stages of maturity ; 
the arrow root ; and the brake fern, growing, in many in- 
stances, to the height of twenty feet. From a bulb, near 
the root, is taken what the natives call hapuu, a silky down, 
which makes excellent beds and cushions. 

Honolulu is situated on the south side of the island, on a 
bay of the same name, and is the capital, and business place 
of all the islands. The land around, and on which the vil- 
lage is located is a dry barren, excepting on the north and 
north-west, which is moist and cultivated with taro patches,, 
with some cocoa trees interspersed. The buildings gener- 
ally are in the native style, thatched ; many are built with 
doia walls after the Spanish manner on the coast of Mexico 
and Peru, that is, with large sun-burnt bricks made about 
two feet long, eighteen inches wideband ten inches thick. 
The clay is mixed with cut straw to strengthen them, after 
the manner of the ancient Egyptians. Their enclosures 
are often built in. the same manner. There are several 



OLD HEATHEN TEMPLE. 359 

good buildings made of rock coral in English style, some of 
which are spacious and well finished. The village contains 
about nine thousand inhabitants, three hundred of whom are 
English and Americans. Most of the commercial business 
and trade are carried on by foreigners, to a large amount, 
increased by the resort of whale ships, in the fall and 
spring, for repairs and fresh supplies, particularly vegeta- 
bles; it is .the place where all other shipping touch which 
navigate this ocean from Europe and America, in the Chi- 
nese and East India trade. This place is constantly grow- 
ing in importance, and must continue to do so from its local 
advantages. 

Four miles south-east of Honolulu is the pleasant native 
village of Waititi, situated on the bay of the same name. 
It contains five or six hundred inhabitants, is situated in a 
beautiful grove of cocoa trees, which adds very much to its 
appearance and comfort. This place ; if its cultivation was 
proportioned to the richness of the soil, might be made one 
of the most delightful spots on the island. 

The only road, or any thing that deserves the name of a 
road in this island, is between this place and Honolulu. 

About two miles east of this village are the remains of an 
old heathen temple, in which human sacrifices were offered ; 
a part of the walls of the enclosure are still standing. Va- 
rious methods were employed to obtain victims. One of 
which was to lay a tabu upon all the people in the whole 
region around, that no one for a certain period of time 
should go out of their dwellings, or make any fire in them, 
upon pain of death. If any violated the tabu, they were 
apprehended and sacrificed to their idols. If none violated 
the tabu, and they were unsuccessful in obtaining victims, 
an expedient was adopted to decoy the people from their 



360 HEATHEN PRIEST— EVA. 

dwellings, by sending out men in a canoe, to range along 
between the coral reef and the shore, and to feign distress, 
and if any were decoyed out for their relief, they were ap- 
prehended and carried to the temple and offered in sacrifice. 

It is a pleasing consideration, that the benign influence 
of the gospel has dispelled these bloody and cruel supersti- 
tions of heathenism. I had an opportunity of seeing an 
old man who had been a high priest in these bloody rites. 
He has no hope that he is interested in the salvation of the 
gospel, but he said it is maitai, (good,) and that the Christian 
religion is so firmly established in these islands, that their 
ancient idolatry can never again be revived. He saluted 
me with many alohas. Mr. Bingham gave him some ac- 
count of my journey across the Rocky Mountains and the 
object. He replied that it was good; and that God was with 
me and preserved me. He said in their former religion, 
they were all ignorant — all was darkness, entire darkness, 
but now the light shines. He said that when Captain Van- 
couver visited these islands in the reign of Tamaha, he urged 
the king to renounce idolatry, and the king promised he 
would, when Christians would send from' the land of light 
a minister to teach them in the right way. They waited 
until their king died without knowing the right way, and no 
one came' until Mr. Bingham and his associates, in the year 
1820. This old heathen priest gave up his religion and his 
honors, took Mr. B. by the hand on his first arrival, and 
called him brother, and has ever since been friendly to the 
missionaries. His wife, whom I also saw, hopes that she 
has experienced the saving power of the gospel. 

Fourteen miles west of Honolulu is Eva,* a village of con. 

* Pronounced Ava. 



KENEOHE. 361 

siderable magnitude, but not very compact. It is situated 
on Pearl river, at the head of a large lagoon extending sev- 
eral miles inland, and is surrounded with a fertile valley 
reaching twelve miles north, which is two-thirds of the dis- 
tance to Waialua. The highest elevation between these 
places is about four hundred feet, and is intersected in va- 
rious parts with deep ravines. Eva is the station which 
Rev. Artemus Bishop and wife occupy, whose prospects of 
usefulness are encouraging. When I was there, the na- 
tives were engaged in building a substantial and commodi- 
ous house of worship, and appeared to take deep interest in 
the effort. 

In the north-west part of the island, is the village of 
Waialua, where Rev. John S. Emerson and wife are sta- 
tioned. The village is situated upon a wide spread bay, 
which would furnish an excellent harbor for any shipping, 
if there was sufficient water upon the bar at the entrance. 
The valley around is large and fertile, capable of being 
made very productive. On a Sabbath which I spent here, 
eight natives, six men and two women, were received into 
the communion of the church, who appeared very intelli- 
gent and serious, and conducted with as much propriety as 
is seen in the most civilized parts of the world. I felt a 
satisfaction in joining with these redeemed heathen in the 
ordinance of the Lord's supper. Every part of divine ser- 
vice was conducted with Christian decorum. I was par- 
ticularly pleased with the appearance of the native deacon, 
who was dignified in his person, dressed in good taste, and 
very devotional in his behavior. 

The only, remaining village of any considerable impor- 
tance is Keneohe, where Rev. Benjamin W. Parker and 
wife are stationed. This village is in the fertile valley of 



362 MOUNTAINS. 

Kolou, near the shore of a pleasant bay, which would af- 
ford an excellent harbor if there was sufficient water at the 
entrance over the coral bar. This village is about four 
miles north of the Pari, and is the most cool and refreshing 
retreat I found upon the island. The basaltic mountain on 
the south, three thousand feet high, and on the north side 
nearly vertical, and the north-east trade winds give a tem- 
perate atmosphere, not found in any other part of the island 
sufficiently low for a village. 

The greatest part of the island is mountainous, though 
but two ranges are of considerable magnitude. The lar- 
gest, Koanahumanui, is on the east side, and runs parallel 
with the ocean, and its highest point is four thousand feet 
above the level of the sea. This range of mountains is di- 
versified with cones, acute points, and prairies. At the great 
Pari, the upper end of Nuuanu, the main chain turns to the 
west, and terminates towards Waialua. The north side 
of the range, west of the Pari, is very precipitous, having 
many spurs projecting to the north, including deep, pit-like 
ravines. The other range is on the west part of the island, 
called Kaala, running north and south, separating Waianae 
on the west, from the valley of Eva on the east. The high- 
est point is three thousand eight hundred and fifty feet. 
There are many conical hills of different magnitudes in va- 
rious parts of the island, which were evidently ancient cra- 
ters ; one six miles south-east of Honolulu, called Diamond 
Hill ; and another a short distance north of Honolulu, called 
Fort Hill. They are open and concave at the top, with 
high walls, reeded down the sides, which appear to have 
been formed by streams of lava, and by the action of water, 
cutting ravines. There is an abundance of lava and other 
volcanic productions about these hills. 



GEOLOGY. 363 

The Salt Lake, four miles west of Honolulu, is of the cra- 
te ric form. It is a great curiosity, as well as a source of 
trade. It has undoubtedly a connection by some subterra- 
neous passage with the ocean, near which it is situated. 
Its depth is not known, being nearly filled with excellent 
cryslalized salt, which appears to be inexhaustible, and is 
taken out in large quantities for use and exportation. The 
lake appears as if filled with ice, a little sunken below 
the surface of the water. 

The geological formations of this island, and all the others 
in the Pacific which I saw, and concerning which I ob- 
tained information, are volcanic and coraline to a great 
extent. Some have supposed that these islands have been 
thrown up in the first place by internal fires, and then en- 
larged by coraline additions. But there is too much argil- 
laceous soil to favor the opinion ; and to say the least, the 
supposition is without conclusive evidence. Much of the 
soil is formed of disintegrated and decomposed lava. The 
reefs lying off from the shores, and in some places immedi- 
ately upon them, are coraline. The corals are divided into 
ancient and modern, the latter still increasing. Between 
these formations is a volcanic deposit. The ancient corals 
are found in many places forming the surface of the plains, 
elevated some six or eight feet above the present level of the 
ocean. As the zoophytes, which form coral, never work 
above water, it is evident that these islands have been ele- 
vated by some subterranean or submarine power, or the 
ocean is subsiding ; and as this recession of the ocean is seen 
in various parts of the world, in nearly, if not the same de- 
gree, is it not probable that the waters of the ocean are 
gradually diminishing ? Of the modern corals there are 
many species, from the rock, to the most beautiful kinds 



364 PRODUCTIONS. 

resembling trees and plants, and of various colors. The 
volcanic formations do not differ materially from those in 
Oregon Territory. Cellular lava is very common, often 
bordering upon pumice, and of various colors ; brick red, 
ash colored, orange yellow, and green. No primitive 
rocks are found, nor any silicious sand ; the sand upon the 
shores being formed either of disintegrated lava, scoria, 
or coral ; but more generally a combination of these three 
products. 

While I shall not attempt a minute enumeration of the 
productions of these islands, the following are some of the 
principal. The cocoa tree, bread fruit, coa tree, which fur- 
nishes lumber nearly equal to mahogany ; hybiscus, candle 
nut tree, mulberry, fig, cotton shrub, which grows spontane- 
ously and produces cotton of very fine quality ; coffee tree, 
grape vines, oranges, lemons, limes, pine apples, melons of 
superior quality, squashes, sugar cane, arrow root ; indigo 
plant, which grows finely without any care ; the guava, its 
fruit resembling mandrakes, but not agreeable to the taste 
of those not accustomed to it ; taro, sweet and common 
potatoes, and bananas. There are many ferns of extraor- 
dinary size ; and the cactus opuntia, familiarly known as the 
prickly pear, growing to the height of six or eight feet, 
is planted in hedge-rows for enclosures. All the most su- 
perb tropical flowering plants luxuriate in these islands, 
among which we find the oriental lilac, eight different spe- 
cies of mimosa, the pride of Barbadoes, several varieties of 
convolvulus, and mirabilis, the passiflora or passion flower, 
roses, the Spanish pink, Mexican pea, and many other beau- 
tiful genera. Also garden vegetables of various kinds. 

These islands when discovered by Capt. Cook, contained 
but very few animals, and most of those now found upon 



ANIMALS GOVERNMENT. 365 

them have since been introduced from the Mexican coast. 
There are now, horses, mules, neat cattle, goats, hogs, dogs, 
fowls. The birds which have their residence here, though 
not numerous, are of most beautiful plumage, and the favor- 
ite head ornament of the women, is made of the golden 
colored feathers of a native bird. The crow and raven, 
which are common in almost all parts of the world, have 
not found their way here. There are very few reptiles, be- 
sides the green lizard, which is very common, and in the 
days of the idolatry of the Islanders, was worshiped, and 
such is the influence of superstition, that they can hardly 
dismiss all feelings of reverence for this insignificant rep- 
tile. If one comes into their dwellings, they choose to let 
it take its own departure rather than molest it. Snakes are 
unknown, and the scorpion and centiped have, within a very 
few years, been brought here in vessels. The musquetoe 
was not known until recently, though now they are numer- 
ous and very annoying. 

The government of these islands is absolute and heredi- 
tary, administered by the king, queen, and chiefs, whose 
will is the supreme law; the common people are a nation of 
slaves. The lands belong to the government, and are leased 
to the people at high rents, and even then they have no 
security that they shall enjoy the avails of their labor ; for 
besides the stipulated rents, the government make any addi- 
tional demands they please, and the people are taught to 
obey without complaining. The king secures his house and 
person by life guards. Very frequently on a Saturday 
morning, the queen regent, attended by her train of female 
companions and servants in equestrian style, visits her gar- 
den some two miles east from Honolulu. Their appearance 

is fine, and they are well skilled in horsemanship. Her ordi- 

32 



866 TEA PARTY. 

nary mode of riding is in a small, low-wheel carriage drawn 
by twenty servants. The persons of the chiefs are remark- 
able for their extraordinary size, towering quite above the 
height of the common people, and in corpulency preserving 
corresponding dimensions. The Sandwich Islanders, or 
Kanakas, as the common people are called, have less activ- 
ity of body and mind than the Indians of our continent, and 
yet a phrenologist would say that their intellectual powers 
are well developed. In their present political condition, 
they are not expected to be otherwise than indolent and im- 
provident. In their dress, mode of living, and habitations 
generally, they have made but little advance upon the days 
of heathenism ; some in the interior, especially, wearing lit- 
tle more clothing than their maro, and having their dwell- 
ings in caverns in volcanic rocks. The chiefs, and some 
of the people, have good houses, dress in good fashion, and 
live comfortably. 

The king, queen regent, and chiefs, gave a tea party, to 
which with a few others I had the honor to be invited. 
They were dressed richly and in good taste ; the table was 
splendidly arrayed with silver plate and china ; the enter- 
tainment was both judiciously and tastefully arranged and 
prepared, and all the etiquette and ceremony of such occa- 
sions were observed. The conversation was cheerful and 
intelligent, without frivolity, and nothing occurred embar- 
rassing to any one. At a suitable early hour, we were in- 
vited into a well-furnished saloon, where, after a perform- 
ance of music, both vocal and instrumental, the queen pro- 
posed that prayer should conclude our agreeable visit ; after 
which the company retired. I have seen but few parties 
in Christian America conducted more on the principles of 
rationality and religion. 



DECREASE OF POPULATION. 367 

An entertainment, however, is sometimes transacted in a 
different style by some of our countrymen and other for- 
eigners in these islands. A dog-feast, as it is here called, 
was given by foreign resident gentlemen, on the 20th of 
Sept. at the country seat of the American consul, in honor 
of the officers of the American squadron, the Peacock and 
Enterprise, then in the harbor of Honolulu. I extract from 
the account published in the Sandwich Island Gazette as 
described at the time. " Food in native style was bounti- 
fully served up — baked dog was among the dishes, and it 
was not to be despised. Songs, toasts, cheers, bumpers, and 
speeches all came in their turn. Among the toasts were, 

• Commodore our Commodore. ,' Commodore's reply, 

1 May you all live a thousand years, and may we always 
meet here.' Doctor of the United States ship Pea- 
cock. < Population and prosperity to the Sandwich Islands, 
and an end to all oppressive tabus.' The party separated 
teeming with good spirits." 

The population of these islands has been decreasing ever 
since an acquaintance has been had with them. Captain 
Cook estimated the people at 400,000. The present popu- 
lation is about 110,000. A variety of causes have conspi- 
red to bring about this declension ; and yet no one so prom- 
inent above the rest, as wholly to satisfy enquiry. It is 
acknowledged by all observers, and has become evident to 
the government itself, that a change of things in the inter- 
nal structure of their national affairs, is necessary to the 
prosperity of the people. During my stay at Oahu, the 
heads of the nation had frequent meetings to discuss the 
subject of reform and improvement, and to adopt some new 
mode of administration which will give to the people the 
privileges of freemen, and thereby stimulate them to indus- 



368 UNJUST NEGOTIATIONS. 

try. To effect this, the lands must be distributed among 
the people, a more equal mode of taxation must be adopted, 
industry must be encouraged, and progressive prosperity 
will follow in the train.* 

The perpetuity of the independence of this nation, and 
with it their existence, is very problematical. A disposi- 
tion to possess these islands, has evidently been manifested 
by foreign powers. Whether the paw of the Lion, or the 
talons of the Eagle, shall first make them its prey, or wheth- 
er they shall be mutual checks upon each other, and thus 
prolong the life of this feeble nation, is not known. The 
manner in which the king and chiefs are often treated by 
the officers of foreign nations, the insults they often meet 
with, would not pass with impunity from a more powerful 
people. In fair and honorable negotiations, regard is had 
to mutual rights, but here foreigners assume the style of 
dictation ; " You shall, and you shall not." Assertions are 
made of things existing in the laws and practices of Eng- 
land and America, which neither government would toler- 
ate. Lord Russel, the commander of the Acteon, a British 
man of war, obtained the signature to a certain instrument, 
by assuring the Hawaiian government that, if they refused 
any longer to sign it, he would order all the English ves- 
sels to leave the harbor, and request all the American 
shipping to withdraw ; and then bring his armed ship be- 
fore their fort, and batter down the walls, and prostrate 
their village. The king signed the instrument, and then, 
together with the queen and chiefs, like some other people 
who feel their feebleness before a mightier nation, had only 



:ze 



* Since my visit at these islands, the government has been re-organ- 
and formed upon the system of free governments. 



FOREIGN RESIDENTS. 3bV 

trie poor resort of a public remonstrance. They according- 
ly sent a remonstrance to the king of Great Britain, in 
which they say, that " on account of their urging us so 
strongly ; on account of said commanders assuring us that 
their communication was from the king ; and on account of 
their making preparation to fire upon us — therefore we gave 
our assent to the writing, without our being willing to- give 
our real approbation ; for we were not pleased with it." 
They feel incompetent to contend with naval strength, and 
therefore submit to indignities from which their feelings re- 
volt. Why cannot the principles of justice and equity 
govern the intercourse of men with men, where they are so 
well understood, and the painful necessity be spared of in- 
nocence and helplessness supplicating that protection which 
God designed should be enjoyed by all his children. 

Much has been said of the character of the foreign res- 
idents, and of the counteracting influence they exert upon 
the labors of the missionaries in this field. The cause of 
their bitterness and opposition is well understood, and lest 
my own observations should seem partial to the missiona- 
ries, and invidious towards those who oppose them^ Twill 
embrace all I have to say on the subject in a quotation 
from a work published by Mr. J. N. Reynolds of the voy- 
age of the Potomac, an American man of war. He cer- 
tainly cannot be accused of partiality to the missionaries 
who reside on these islands, for his remarks on them are 
somewhat acrimonious, but in regard to the foreign resi- 
dents, he says, " they are generally devoid of all religious 
principle, and practice the greatest frauds upon the natives 
in their dealings with them ; which tends to corrupt their 
morals, and to preclude all hopes of fairness in trade among 

them. It cannot be denied, and no one can regret it more 

32* 



370 CHARITY SCHOOL. 

than we do, that this whole population, generally speafc 
ing, are of the lowest order ; among whom every thing, 
like the decent restraint which civilized society imposes upon 
its members, is at war with their vicious propensities, and 
of course resisted by them to the extent of their power." 
He farther adds, " let us be distinctly understood in the 
remarks we have made in reference to the foreign resi- 
dents and missionaries on this island. As to the question, 
which party is on the side of virtue and good order, there 
can be but one opinion, where there is not even room for 
comparison." I have been in communities where vice has 
been unblushingly indulged, but I have never witnessed 
direct enmity to every thing morally good, in so much bit- 
terness and power, as in Oahu. 

Most of the foreign residents have native wives, and 
manifest a regard for the education of their children, and 
send some of them'to other countries for this purpose ; but 
for most of them a charity school has been established, and 
for its support a call is made upon the commanders and 
officers of vessels who come into this port ; and they have 
even sent to England and America for charitable aid. 
Though some poor are taught here, yet I know not why the 
benevolent should help, by way of charity, the consuls and 
rich merchants in Oahu. 

I visited the seamen's chapel and preached several times 
for Rev. Mr. Diell. While there are often several hundred 
seamen in the port of Honolulu, there are frequently very 
few attendants on the regular services of the chapel. Rev. 
Mr. Diell, their worthy chaplain, is however indefatigable in 
his labors through the week, visiting sailors on ship board, 
and wherever he can find them, endeavoring to promote their 
spiritual good. Some conversions have crowned his efforts. 



MISSIONARY SUCCESS. 371 

On the occasion of the funeral of an infant of the Prin- 
cess, whose husband is Leleiohoku, alias Wm. Pitt, I visited 
the burial place of the kings and royal family. This is a 
stone building of rock coral, of the common size and struc- 
ture of the houses of the village, and situated amongst them, 
having nothing particularly distinguishable except an out- 
ward signal, by which is understood the number and rank 
of the dead within. They are encased first in lead, secured 
from the admission of air, and then deposited in coffins of 
elegant workmanship, covered with rich silk velvet, or 
crimson damask, and ornamented with silver or brass plate. 
Here sleep the remains of Rihoriho, and Kamehamalu, who 
died on a visit to England, and several others lying in state ; 
and in the same tomb, are interred a number of other mem- 
bers of the royal family. 

The missionaries of the American Board of Commission- 
ers for Foreign Missions in these islands, have done much 
to elevate the character of the population, by teaching and 
preaching the truths of Christianity ; by schools, where the 
first rudiments of education are taught ; by the press, and a 
translation of the entire bible ; they have exerted a salutary 
influence upon the morals of the whole nation, and raised a 
monument to the power and excellence of the gospel of Jesus 
Christ. They have also laid, instrumentally, a broad foun- 
dation for the political, and social, and religious improve- 
ment of that people, unless thwarted by the interference 
and opposition of foreigners, and for the future and unend- 
ing happiness of many redeemed souls in the world to come. 
I had frequent opportunities of witnessing the effect of their 
labors in the evidences of the .moral renovation of these once 
idolaters, and of meeting with them in their great congre- 
gation on the Sabbath. 



372 HOMEWARD BOUND. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

Departure from Oahu in ship Phoenix for the United States — call at 
the Society Islands — brief description of Tahiti and Eimeo — severe 
gales of wind— Magellanic clouds— Martin Vass Island — Trinidad 
— arrival at New London. 

From July to November, no vessel departed from the 
Sandwich Islands direct for ,the United States, and after 
being detained about five months, waiting an opportunity to 
return, I engaged a passage in the Phoenix, Allyn, from 
New London, and embarked December 17th. The ship was 
built for the China trade, of four hundred and ten tons, 
manned with twenty-eight persons, besides five passengers. 
The pilot boat left us well out at sea, at nine in the morning ; 
our course south-west. On the morning of the 21st, we en- 
countered a strong wind, which in the afternoon had in- 
creased so much, that we were compelled to put two reefs 
in the top-sails ; and a squall split our jib and sprung our 
foremast. I had no opportunity or disposition to enjoy the 
grandeur of the rolling ocean, being confined to the cabin 
by sea sickness. Our ship was engaged in the whaling 
business, and I was furnished, for once, with an opportuni- 
ty of seeing the experiment of taking a whale. The thing 
has often been described, but the novelty of the manoeu- 
vre interested me. The experienced and skillful whale- 
men dispose of the dangerous process, with the tactics of 
their profession, in a manner much beyond my conceptions 
before witnessing it; and the monster of the deep, though 



TETT7AR0A. 373 

mighty in his strength, is made to submit to inferior power, 
and to contribute largely to illuminate our evenings at 
home. When the whale is brought along side of the ship, 
the whalemen dissever the head from the body, and hoist 
it on deck, and while some are employed in perforating the 
scull, and with a bucket taking out the sperm, others make 
a spiral incision in the oily portion, beginning where the 
head was taken off, and by rope and hook suspended by a 
pulley twenty feet up the mainmast, draw up the oily part 
which cleaves from the flesh, while the body of the whale 
revolves in the water; and this process is continued until all 
that is valuable is secured. There are said to be thirty 
thousand men employed in this business in the Pacific, while 
only about four hundred are engaged in diffusing the light 
of life through the dark places of the earth. 

January 12th, 1837. Through the whole of to-day we 
had strong gales from N. N. E. Our top-sails were close 
reefed — split our main- top-sail. Headed to the E. close on 
the wind. Very bad sea — not able to take any observation 
of our latitude or longitude. These gales continued on the 
13th until almost every sail was taken in, and we lay to on 
the wind. The last part of the day was more moderate, 
and we headed south. By observation taken to-day, our 
latitude was 14° 47' south. 

Sabbath, 15th. The winds subsided, and the weather was 
warm. In the morning we came near Tetuaroa, a small 
island of the Society group. It is low, the highest parts ri- 
sing but a few feet above the level of the sea, is thinly in- 
habited, and adorned with large and beautiful groves of the 
cocoa tree extending even to the water's edge. The fresh 
verdure of this island, in all the luxuriance of perpetual 
summer, was a delightful contrast to the constant view of the 



374 TAHITI. 

water for nearly a month, and I felt as though these gems of 
the ocean were scattered here to refresh the tired voyager, 
and bring to his mind the recollection of his own dear home. 
Like all the islands of this ocean which I have seen, it is sur- 
rounded with coral reefs, lying off at a little distance from 
the shore, and upon which the sea constantly breaks. In the 
afternoon we approached the harbor of Papeeti, at the island 
of Tahiti. The pilot came off to us, and made an effort to 
get the ship in, but did not succeed, the wind being too light, 
and we had to bear off for the night. The prospect as it 
lay spread out before us was a combination of all that was 
beautiful in nature. Nor am I alone in the impression 
which this little "Queen of the ocean" makes upon a stran- 
ger. Others have described it with all the vividness which 
its romantic and delightful scenery inspires. The harbor 
forms a gentle curve, and in the foreground, on a level tract 
were scattered neat cottages, built of thatch, or wood, plas- 
tered and whitewashed with coral lime, situated together with 
the church, in the midst of bread-fruit, cocoa, and orange 
groves. The back ground of the enchanting picture was 
filled up with hills and valleys, and streams dashing their 
way down the ravines, and then meandering through the 
rich vale below, to the ocean, while the outline terminated 
in steep and lofty mountains. But not the least interesting 
were the marks which the Christian religion and its attend- 
ant, civilization, have made. Here was a church, and to 
know that this people had lately been rescued from pagan- 
ism, and all the hideous forms of idolatrous worship, raised 
in my heart emotions of pleasure and gratitude, which not 
even nature's fairest forms had power to awaken. An im- 
mortal spirit elevated from the dust, and raised to heaven, a 
monument of the Savior's grace — what can equal it ? 



CHRISTIANITY AND CIVILIZATION. 375 

Monday morning, the 16th, we passed safely into the 
harbor, where we found the Daniel Webster, Pierson, from 
Sag Harbor ; on board of which were Rev. W. Richards 
and family, passengers for the United States. 

We continued in this port four days, during which time 
I made several excursions about the island, and became 
acquainted with the English missionaries, of whose success- 
ful labors I had often heard and read ; the Rev. Messrs. 
Wilson, Pritchard, and Darling, and their families. They 
appear happy in their work, and devoted to it. The 
Christian religion is the only religion acknowledged in 
these islands, and its influence is universally apparent. As 
the conversion of multitudes in the first ages of Christiani- 
ty, has ever been considered as furnishing evidence of the 
truth of the gospel, so the " moral miracle" of the conver- 
sion of the islands of the sea, in our own day, is calculated, 
with all its attendant circumstances, to confirm our faith, 
as well as to encourage us in prosecuting still farther those 
benevolent designs, which render the deserts, both natural- 
ly and morally, the garden of the Lord. Besides preach- 
ing on the Sabbath, the missionaries have religious service 
on other days of the week. At sun- rise every morn- 
ing they have a public prayer meeting. They are doing 
much by their schools and the press ; and most of the peo- 
ple can read. The performances of the natives in vocal 
music pleased me, their voices being very soft and musical, 
though less cultivated than those of the Sandwich Islanders. 
Their personal appearance, complexion, language, and 
dress are much the same as the natives of those islands. 
Their advances in the arts and in agriculture, are less than 
might be expected of them, but in a climate where so many 
rich fruits vegetate spontaneously, the necessity of cultiva- 



376 GOVERNMENT. 

tion is less imperious. While the harbor is not as good as 
that of Oahu, less is done by way of wharfing, or other- 
wise to facilitate business, or to aid in repairing the ship- 
ping which visit this island. A good public road has been 
commenced to extend around the island, on which convicts, 
instead of being imprisoned, were employed, but it is now 
neglected, and all the bridges are broken down. 

The government here is much the same as that of the 
Sandwich Islands, but is in some respects more free and sys- 
tematized. Their judiciary is well organized, and justice 
is tolerably well_ administered. Their legislative body is 
composed of the queen, governors, chiefs, and two represen- 
tatives from each district of the islands of Tahiti and Eimeo ; 
the laws when framed are canvassed by the people, and if 
approved, receive the queen's signature. The young queen 
Pomare is of very prepossessing appearance, possesses tal- 
ents, and decision of character ; but her views of civilization 
are not so enlarged as those of Madam Kinau. 

The American consul at these islands, resides at Papee- 
ti ; he is a Dutchman, and as he informed me, a native and 
citizen of Antwerp. His English is hardly intelligible, and 
his knowledge of the duties of his office is yet to be ac- 
quired. 

The islands of Tahiti and Eimeo, like the other large 
islands of the Pacific, are volcanic and coraline. They 
are mountainous, and many of the mountains are high and 
steep, and many of the valleys are deep and narrow, extend- 
ing far into the interior. To a considerable extent the soil 
is rich and productive ; oranges and all other tropical fruits 
being abundant, and requiring little labor or care. Such is 
the indolence of the inhabitants that they cultivate little be- 
sides sugar cane and a few vegetables. These islands are 



CLEANLINESS OF THE ISLANDERS. 377 

well supplied with forests, in which are several kinds of 
wood equal in value to mahogany for cabinet work. The 
heat for the most part of the year is so oppressive, that 
though many things are very pleasant, yet these islands come 
short of the paradise which some journalists have described. 

These, like the other islands of the Pacific, have been di- 
minishing in populousness. Various causes, such as the in- 
troduction of foreign diseases, infanticide, human sacrifices, 
the means furnished by commerce of rendering wars de- 
structive to human life, and the introduction of ardent spirits, 
have all contributed to this end. It is estimated that only 
about twelve thousand people inhabit the two islands of Ta- 
hiti and Eimeo, and about forty thousand both the Georgian 
and Society group. The introduction of the Christian re- 
ligion has banished many causes of their decline. 

The cleanliness of the islanders is a subject worthy of re- 
mark. Their practice of frequent ablutions and sea bath- 
ing, to which they are induced by the climate, and of which 
they are fond, including all descriptions of persons, and even 
children, is highly conducive to health, and promotes a taste 
for neatness in their persons not common to heathen nations. 

Wednesday, 18th, I accompanied Mr. Pritchard in his 

pastoral labors, about seven miles, on horseback, where he 

preached to a congregation in a village in which the queen 

has her residence. Queen Pomare was present, and an 

interesting audience appeared to listen as if they were 

hearing the word to obey it. After the meeting, we pursued 

our ride about seven miles farther, to Rev. Mr. Wilson's at 

Point Venus, a lovely spot, situated in orange and banana 

groves. Our way thither was around the base of hills and 

mountains which approached near the beach in precipices, 

and where the opening through the coral reefs permitted the 

33 



378 PUBLIC FEASTS. 

sea to break on the shore with a noise like thunder, so that 
we had to watch the opportunity afforded by the receding 
waves to pass these points. Any horses, but those accus- 
tomed to the sight, would have denied us a safe passage. 
With these dear missionaries I partook of a cheerful dish of 
tea, while we talked of the interests of the kingdom of our 
common Redeemer, and of the time when fellow laborers 
from every part of our lost world, and from their different 
spheres of agency, when their work here is done, shall be 
gathered to their Father's home in heaven. 

In the evening we returned to Mr. Pritchard's, on my part 
delighted with so refreshing an interview. 

During my short stay, the queen and royal family of a 
neighboring island, paid a visit of friendship to Tahiti. 
This afforded me a very desirable opportunity of remarking 
the manners and customs of the people. A public feast 
was given in honor of the royal visitants ; and the day was 
ushered in by firing rusty guns, of which they have a very 
few. The morning until ten o'clock was occupied in col- 
lecting together their cocoanuts, bananas, baked hogs, &c. 
Many were out to purchase calico scarfs of two or three 
yards in length to wear in the procession. A very large pro- 
cession formed, the women taking the lead, and the men fol- 
lowing in order. A female with an infant in her arms led 
the van. This was explained to me as done in honor of 
mothers ; for here, as well as at the Sandwich Islands, wo- 
men are regarded as in all respects on a par with men. All 
were well attired in European style, their heads adorned 
tastefully with garlands of most beautiful tropical flowers, 
with which their sea-girt isle abounds in profusion. After 
taking, in single file, a long and circuitous march, they ar- 
rived at their feasting bower, under a grove of cocoanut, 



PREPARING FOR SEA. 379 

bread-fruit, and orange trees, where near the centre, with 
an infant, sat the royal visitor; and as they passed, each 
Tahitian threw down at her feet their scarfs or some other 
present. It was the pleasure of the queen, however, not 
long to retain all these tokens of honor, for she seemed happy 
in generously giving them to others. After the procession 
had passed in respectful review, next came the refreshments, 
which were placed, some on the ground, others suspended 
on boughs of trees, which were taken and shared in little 
circles seated upon the grass, evidently enjoying the social 
interview. This is considered one of their most joyful holi^ 
days, and was managed without noise, confusion, or any 
apparent infraction of the rules of propriety. It must be 
recollected that this is a temperance island ; all traffic in 
ardent spirits being prohibited by law. 

In taking leave of these islands, I would not fail to men- 
tion the kind hospitality of Rev. G. Pritchard and family r 
and the satisfaction I had in seeing the other missionaries, 
and witnessing the interesting fruits of their labors under 
the blessing of God. 

Our stay at Tahiti was employed by the ship's crew in 
disposing of our poor sulphureted water from the Sandwich 
Islands, and in re-supplying themselves from the pure moun- 
tain streams of this island, and in " vegetating the ship" as 
they phrase it ; that is, by collecting quantities, which are 
purchased of the natives, of oranges, bananas, sweet pota- 
toes, limes, cocoanuts in abundance, bread-fruit, yams, and 
squashes. Here I collected for my cabinet, some choice 
specimens of coral and shells of the ocean, which the na- 
tives dive to obtain, and sell to the ships which enter this 
port. 

On the morning of Saturday 21st January, we left the 



380 MAN OVERBOARD. 

harbor of Tahiti with a light wind, and as we sailed around 
Eimeo, its mountains, with their densely wooded tops and 
precipitous sides, appeared in full prospect. On this island 
there is a high school for the children of the missionary 
families of the several islands. 

We proceeded with a favorable wind until the 30th, when 
our latitude was 30° 27' south, and longitude 153° 10' west. 
I was here much gratified to witness the interesting phe- 
nomenon of a water-spout. It first became visible to us 
about half a mile distant as it arose, and at that distance 
we had no apprehensions of danger from it, and yet it was 
sufficiently near to give a distinct view. It commenced in 
a small, dark, and nearly perpendicular column, enlarging 
its diameter as it rose, until it reached the region of the 
clouds, when apparently feeling the influence of the wind, 
it passed obliquely to the south-west. It continued in view 
some time, but as we were proceeding on our course, it grad- 
ually disappeared. 

On the 4th of February, fresh breezes from the north- 
west took the place of the south-east trade-winds, and our 
course was laid E. S. E. 

On the 5th we had strong gales from the west. Put two 
reefs in the top-sails, and took in the mizzen-top-sail, aftd 
handed the main-sail. The sea was very heavy. On the 
9th the wind was more moderate ; and while engaged in 
spearing porpoises, one of the men fell overboard from 4;he 
bow, and went directly under the ship, and came up under 
her stern. The life buoy was thrown over to him, but 
being an indifferent swimmer he was long in his efforts 
to seize it. By lowering the boat and rounding about the 
ship, he was recovered on board much exhausted, and almost 
overcome with the cold. Hundreds are daily, by a great 



HEAVY GALE. 381 

variety of occurrences, taken from the world, and the cer- 
tain knowledge awakens but feeble sensations in our bosoms ; 
but a solitary case of individual danger and suffering which 
we witness, arouses all our anxieties and sympathies, and 
we are grateful when relieved by the safety of the suf- 
ferer. 

On the 16th and 17th, the gale was tremendous. We 
were in latitude about 47° south, and 120° west longitude. 
With nearly every sail taken in, we could only run before 
the wind, which was from the north-west, and the waves were 
constantly breaking over our bulwarks. Such was the 
roaring of the wind and breaking waves, that it was diffi- 
cult for the orders of the captain to be heard, upon his loud- 
est Voice, from midship, forward or aft. The wind blew 
tons of water into the air and scattered it into ten thou- 
sand sprays. I never had such evidence of the power of 
wind and water, nor of the admirable manner the ship could 
live in such a gale. She would roll upon the waves, and 
plunge, and rise again upon the mountain billows. The 
whole scene was fraught with magnificence, terror, and 
grandeur. It was a great favor that we had a courageous 
and experienced captain ; and a sober, active, and obe- 
dient crew ; and above all the protection of Heaven. Two 
men were constantly at the wheel, selected from our best 
steersmen. We shipped a great quantity of water, and 
on the night of tlie 17th, the fore deck had scarcely at 
any time, less than a foot, or two feet of water, the waves 
breaking over faster than the water could pass through 
the scuppers. Two pumps were at work a large portion 
of the time to keep the ship clear, so much water was con- 
stantly finding its way down the closed hatches and other 

leakages of the deck. The two men at each pump la- 

33* 



382 THE TERN AND ALBATROSS. 

bored so forcibly, that it was necessary to be relieved by 
others every three minutes. I reflected on the condition of 
those who were not prepared for death,. and that even to 
a Christian a quiet death-bed would be preferable to leav- 
ing the world in such a scene of confusion. But we were 
spared in great kindness, and the following morning the wind 
began to abate. Captain Allyn, who had been into most of 
the principal seas, and around both of the great Capes, 
said he never saw, except in a typhoon which he encounter- 
ed on the Japan coast, any gale which equalled this. 

The gales continued with frequent squalls of hail and 
rain until the 28th, when we found we were driven to the 
59° of south latitude, and 77° west longitude. This was 
farther south of Cape Horn than we wished to go. The 
weather was cold and thick, the thermometer ranging be- 
tween 41° and 47° for several days. On the 1st of March 
we saw for the first time after leaving Tahiti, a sail to the 
windward heading south-west, but were unable to speak 
her. It was very pleasant to find our latitude lessening in 
our homeward course, though we were not up with the Cape 
until the third of March. During the gales, and especially 
in stormy weather, our vessel was very frequently visited 
by a bird which navigators call the Noddy, and which is 
easily taken with the hand. It is of the Tern genus, twelve 
inches long, slenderly formed ; its plumage is a dark sooty 
brown, excepting the top of its head which is dusky white. 
The Albatross also was constantly flying about us, regard- 
less of wind and waves. Our men caught several of them 
with a hook, the heads of which, when standing upon the 
deck, were four feet high ; their aler measurement was ten 
feet. Although they are generally of a brown color, yet in 
the region of Cape Horn, they vary from a mixture of brown 



MAGELLANIC CLOUDS. 383 

and white, to an almost entire white. They are the largest 
class of the feathered race,. 

We had for a long time an opportunity of observing the 
Magellanic ciouds ; which are three in number, two lumin- 
ous and one black ; about thirty degrees distant from each 
other, and fixed in their relative situations as are the fixed 
stars. Although I had noticed them, supposing them to be 
clouds, and wondering how an illuminated cloud should be 
seen at all times of the night, and preserve its position with 
an outline so well defined and so plainly marked, yet my 
mind was not wholly satisfied respecting them, until the 
mate of the ship, who had seen them in previous voyages, 
and' who possessed considerable astronomical knowledge, 
pointed out to me some of their characteristics. The weath- 
er in these high southern latitudes being so uniformly thick 
and cloudy, prevented our observing them so early, or care- 
fully as we might otherwise have done. They were distinct- 
ly visible for weeks, keeping their relative situation, and 
their altitude above the southern horizon lessening to the 
beholder, according as his latitude diminished while he pro- 
ceeded north. The forms of each are about five degrees in 
diameter. The luminous ones undoubtedly are formed by 
clusters of stars, so numerous and contiguous, and so dis- 
tant as only to give a glimmering light like luminous clouds, 
which gives them their name ; and the black one is very 
probably the entire absence of all light. I gazed at these, 
night after night, with wonder and admiration. It seemed 
to me, that looking at the dark one, was looking beyond 
created nature into infinite space. 

Gales occurred occasionally after we doubled Cape Horn, 
but most of the time was pleasant and the winds favorable, 
until the 27th of March in south latitude 23° 27', and west 



384 



FUNERAL AT SEA. 



longitude 28° 34', the wind came around to the north, and 
continued to blow from a northerly direction for ten days, 
which retarded our progress, and carried us off our course 
to the east, until we were brought into 26° west longitude, 
where we changed our course west by north. On the first 
of April, we spoke an East Indiaman. She was a very 
large, fine-looking ship, of about eight hundred tons, well 
filled with men, women, and children, who probably were 
passengers for New Holland. This was the first ship we 
had spoken after the Spartan, near the line on the other 
side of the continent. It is difficult to imagine how pleas- 
ant it is to see and speak a ship after having been months 
at sea. A few hours after, we saw another East Indiaman, 
but did not speak her. By falling in with these ships, we 
found we were so near Africa, that we were in the track of 
ships from Europe to the Cape of Good Hope. 

The same day we buried one of the seamen in the great 
deep. He was a man who in early life was trained up in 
the care of pious parents, but whose after life was marked 
by vices, which in their consequences led : to a comparative- 
ly early death. It was a solemn scene when we committed 
his remains to the water grave. The colors were raised 
half mast, the whole ship's company collected around ; the 
body, with weights attached, was laid upon a plank at the 
gang-way ; and we paused to dwell for a moment on death 
and the dread scenes beyond. I addressed them in a few 
remarks suggested by the occasion, and after a prayer, the 
plank was gently moved over the side of the ship, and the 
dead disappeared to be seen no more. 

On the 2d, we made Martin Vass Islands, which are five 
in number, composed wholly of volcanic rocks, without any 
soil ; some of them are cones, shooting up four or five hun- 



MARTIN VASS AND TRINIDAD ISLANDS. 385 

dred feet. Two are very small and needle pointed. They 
are all so precipitous, and the sea constantly breaking 
against them, that there is no landing. Their forms are 
fantastical ; one of them having the appearance of a forti- 
fication with bastions, about which are needle points resem- 
bling men on guard. They are in 20° 31' south latitude, 
and 28° 38' west longitude. By changing our course more 
westerly we made Trinidad, off against St. Roque. which is 
an island of considerable size, and in latitude 20° 28', and 
longitude 29° 5'. Near evening we were fifteen miles from 
it, and wishing to land in the morning, we took in sail and 
lay off for the night. Some Portuguese once settled upon 
it, but it is so difficult of access, that they abandoned it, and 
it is now without any inhabitants. 

On the morning of the 3d, we ran down to within three 
miles of the island, and manned three boats to go on shore ; 
but finding no place free from breakers, gave up the at- 
tempt, caught a few fish near the shores, and after being 
much annoyed with flies which came off to us, we returned 
to the ship, and with a favorable breeze pursued our course. 
This island is also volcanic, has an iron-bound shore, and 
is mountainous, the highest part of which is about fifteen 
hundred, or two thousand feet. It is a place of resort for 
multitudes of birds and sea fowl, some of which are large. 
I had an opportunity to see, but not to examine, the man-of- 
war hawk. They are numerous here, and while they are 
handsome, they are also ravenous, always taking their prey 
upon the wing. There were many of the perfectly silky 
white species of the Tern, which hovered over us with great 
tameness, as though they wished to form an acquaintance 
with us, not suspecting any hostility. 

Most of our nights as well as days for a long time were 



386 



EVENINGS AT SEA. 



clear, and the stars were seen with remarkable brightness. 
What has been described by others of evenings at sea, in 
the southern hemisphere, I had an opportunity of observing 
with admiration. The richest colors of red, orange, and 
yellow, are spread over the western sky after the setting 
sun, and often over the whole concave of heaven. No pen- 
cil of art can imitate the tints and hues which blend in soft- 
ness over this scene of beauty. Nature's pencil only can 
lay on these delicate shades, and add to them the brilliancy, 
ever varying, of so much richness and splendor. 

In the deep seas we did not see many fish ; of the few 
which came under our observation, the dorado, or as com- 
monly called, the dolphin, and the pilot fish excelled in the 
beauty of their colors. The former, when taken upon deck, 
constantly changed its colors from the bright purple to the 
gold, the bluish green, and the silver white, and these spread- 
ing out into vanishing shades. The pilot fish is equally 
beautiful, but is singular in the choice of company and em- 
ployment ; always being found with the shark, and conduct- 
ing him to his prey, from which it derives its name. 

The flying fish is a curiosity, furnished with powers for 
occupying both air and water, but finds no friend in either ; x 
pursued by the porpoise, or the dolphin, or some other fish, 
it swims with all speed until it can no longer escape its de- 
structive enemy, and then takes to flight in the air, where 
the albatross and the man-of-war hawk hover to make it 
their prey. In its flight it often falls upon the decks of 
ships, where man shows it no mercy. 

On the 19th of April we passed the equator. For a few 
days we had calms or only light winds with showers. The 
heat was very intense, and to be becalmed under these cir- 
cumstances is more to be dreaded than gales. But we 



LAND DESCRIED. 387 

were much favored, and soon found ourselves in north lat- 
itude, and it was with sensations of delight that I again be- 
held the North star, though but just above the horizon. I 
hailed it as the harbinger of good, and an indication that I 
was fast approaching my long desired home and friends. 

All objects at sea are considered worthy of notice, and 
the gulf weed, which was seen in great abundance before 
we came to the gulf-stream, was observed with no small 
interest. It is an aquatic plant of a peculiar light green 
color, and floats upon the surface of the water. . We en- 
tered and passed the stream on the 14th of May, in 36° 37' 
north latitude ; and though a rough sea is generally expec- 
ted here, yet we had a very pleasant time. The current 
is at the rate of three miles an hour, and the temperature 
seven degrees warmer than the adjacent water. 

On the 17th of May, at three in the afternoon, we were 
cheered with the cry from the man at the mast head, "Land 
hof ahead" It proved to be Block Island. We came in 
sight of the light-house in the evening, but too late to at- 
tempt to get into the harbor before morning, and therefore 
lay off for the night. In the morning we found ourselves 
among various shipping bound to different ports. We pass- 
ed Montauk Point and drew near to New London, where 
the sight of the city, the shipping in the harbor, the country 
around, and the islands dressed in green, were most grateful, 
especially to one so long conversant with heathen countries 
and a wide expanse of ocean. Passed up the Thames to 
the city, and I rejoiced to land once more upon Christian 
and civilized shores, my native land, my country ! In 
taking leave of the Phoenix, I felt it due to the captain and 
crew to say, that I received from them every kind attention 
I could wish, and it being a temperance ship, I did not hear a 



388 ARRIVAL AT HOME. 

profane word from any while on board. We had public 
worship, during the voyage on the Sabbath, and the word of 
God was blessed, as there was reason to believe, to the 
saving conversion of some souls. I found kind friends in 
New London, and after arranging my business, directed my 
way to Ithaca, where I arrived on the 23d of May, after an 
absence of more than two years and two months, and having 
accomplished a journey of twenty-eight thousand miles. 



I have in several places made mention of the superior 
mildness of the climate west of the Rocky Mountains, and 
that the seasons are divided into the wet and dry ; the rainy 
season commencing about the first of November, and the 
dry about the first of May. The following Meteorological 
Table, which was taken with care, will give a general spe- 
cimen. 



METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 



389 



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34 



390 METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 



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METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 391 



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-a 


H3 


*3 


S 


o 













I * III 

5 o o o > 







^3 




























£ 








o 




a 




























-a 








o 

s 




*-> 
<» 

o 

s 












o 

c 










*ed 
■73 


P 

o 




o 
o 






13 


















c 


13 




t^ 


>, 


S 
cd 


o 


>, 


o 


t>i 


>, 


bfl 




cd 


■£ 




r! 


r^" 




o 


J3 




5 


T3 


o 




B 


t3 



T3 

E3 


g 


fcc 


o 


bo 


o 


^3 


"O 


T3 


n3 


'-* 




a 


O 




o 




o 


O 


S 


-* 


o 


^ 


a 










cd 


!-i 


"^ 


o 


O 


n 




CJ 


!-, 


o 


o._ 




■m 


© 


00 


o 


no 


Q 


"* 


f^ 


o 


© 


co 


on 


CI 


CO 


m 


to 


o 


C35 


^ 


•<* 


t* 


"* 


CO 


^' 


c-o 


^ 


^ 


CO 


co 


""* 


co 


PS 


CO 


CO 


CO 


CO 


"* 


CO 


r* 


CO 



COOCOCQrHlOOOCO^i-lCNfCOGOlOOCOOO'^UO 



00"^COCOC?C^05C?"*000000?C=>1000»OC©OCO 
^■^eOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCO'^COCOCOCOCOCO^CO 



xn 



392 



METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 



* 


o 


a! 




ti 

V 


0) 

S 


g 

CJ 




13 


(U 

s 


13 




>> 




>^ 








■o 




3 
O 


s 

o 





rt 










72 


o 


CJ 



d 5 -5 « 3 

si..* I * J Ills 

— .2 _2 n ^ _9 « o a> Or3 <u<u o § "** £? 

o'o'oci'o'o'o w^ t- 



M3 



s 





09 

s 










d 














XI 
3 
Cd 






•xi 


ti 


go 






& 


>, 






3 


d 
id 










>-, 






d 


B 
ed 


T3 

JO 

13 


s 


(J 






'-■3 


Vl 




^3 




(^ 








T3 


*0 


•j 




TO 


^3 


^ 


M 








3 




3 


3 


Bd 


Bj 


ri 


■d 


3 


3 


ed 


r! 


a 


3 


3 


ed 






































o 


























































o 


u 


C3 


CJ 


u 


o 


CJ 


CJ 


o 


CJ 


CJ 


CJ 


-*-> 


O 




qp 


I— 


no 


to 


o 




o 


0> 


S3 




Ifl 


n» 


<«# 


f^ 


(—5 




ro 


in 


d 


O 


CO 


CO 


CO 


CO 


<* 




tJ< 


CO 


CJ 


CO 


CJ 


od 


CO 


co 


<* 


«# 


CO 


■^ 


■<* 


"* 


5 

on 


1—1 


9 


<* 


ifl 




tfj 


LO 


T— | 


c? 




T— 1 


ro 


-+ 


co 


w 





<* 


"** 


to 


co 


-# 


CO 


■^ 




CO 


CO 


CO 


CO 


co 


CO 


CJ 


CO 


oi 


CO 


«* 


-* 


■>* 


Tj« 





"* 


OR 


f— 1 


CO 




rH 


CO 


c> 


co 


T* 


(?) 


CJ 


CO 


i—i 


1—1 


r-> 


lO 


c? 


to 


eo 


co 


CO 


CO 


CO 




CO 


CO 


CJ 


CJ 


cj 


CJ 


C! 


CO 


CO 


co 


TO 


co 


CO 


c* 


to 


£■ 


ro 


o 


C^> 


O 


i-H 


05 


CO 


•if 


o 


to 


r^ 


no 


o» 


o 


1—4 


c> 


CO 


^ 


CI 


S4 


CJ 


91 


co 








































w 






































GQ 


« 












CO 














09 





METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 









fcJO bX) 



\ . 5 S "13 :3 <* 

i >» "a 'c o "2 >» 

5 nS o O i— 5 *< 

> > O 



•a '3 £ m -S § I 

« e S -S „ ^ -S j m T ~ Q <? a £ ^ •» 

1 .S ■ £ ' s s f sg s § 1 .9 g « S ■ 1 b g I B 

O rt ~ ., O c 5 O >-; £ rt ^. a) o <2 a -=• _, S 

w*-,rtcJw53.^3a20-iSt.o^*j'^j>o cJoa 



oo 



o p3 



-S » . s £» 



■s : 3 'S >» ^5 3" 

c .S ~ a '3 -3 *3 | § . -§ < -° 

1 . "5 § § * § § § § 1 8" | t £ I 

c3c333s3c3Dri=i53c3*j3 S3 





cr> 


^ 
# 






«3 


CO 


-H- 

co 


C5 

CO 


CO 




^ 

^f 




to 

ITS 


«a 


CO 


to 


OO 


o 


00 





5* 






i— 1 


oo 


CO 


CO 


en 




lO 




so 


00 

o 


o 

UO 




to 


«3 






1 


o 


©3 


00 
CO 


to 

CO 


CO 


GO 


CO 

CO 


S«5 


CO 






to 

UO 


to 
uo 


to 


o 


to 


© 


to 



»OtOl-»OOC5COf-tC^CO"*lOtOt^OOCSO^| 
rHi-H.-H>-)r-l<M<M<MO*(MOlC*C*CM<M00CO 



m 



34* 



394 



METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 






P 

. bX) 
^ "3 



% ^ 

T3 T3 



bJD bJD 
O O 



T3 r3 rQ 

a o o 

>> s s 

•o -43 * 

•2 JJ 



& 
o 

I 

1 
43 

a 

o 



o 

bJD ,>> 



H3 • 



1 





c 

a 

B 


a 

u 
>> 


a 

h 
0) 






<-> 

c 




















E 

i 










J 


5 









IB 




O 

















p 




»=f» 




H 


CO 












0J 

1L, 




m 




to 






j>» 


T3 


13 




"6 




'O 




'3 





(J 
ed 






-a 




@ 


s 






ed 
P- 


(d 


ci 




O 


P 


cd 











>■> 


>-, 


l*i 


rt 


>, 


>, 


>■> 




>, 


>-> 


t-, 


>, 


f>> 




Ed 


^ 




t 




s 


-3 



P 


-a 




T3 

3 




■g 


& 


T3 


p 


p 


p 


P 


O 
1 




T3 
P 


& 












-1 




O 








O 















O 












































^d 


in 













CJ 










w 


u 













VI 


O 


O 


W 






0Q 



DO 



METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 395 



c 






















<D 


*J 














•a 

6 
a 
"3 

Pi 

as 

a 


o 
id 

oa 

03 


G 


>> 

"3 
ri 
G 
Pi 

CO 

G 


G 

Pi 

G 




-G 


G 




-p> 

i 
i 




Gh 

b 

> 

ri 

T2 
O 


rt 

09 

rt 
« 

••a 

^3 


G 
ri 

09 

ri 
o 


G 
ri 

ri 

to 




be 

.s 

'5 
> 

>> 

^3 


bn 

G 

'g 

o 

> 
ca 

'G 


a 

rt 
w 
rt 

U 
% 

M 

ri 
e 


o 


-•4 


ot 


G 


G 




bn 


ri 




a. 










Pi 


w 


S 


3 








n 












G 

Pi 






O 
© 










o 


n 




1 

T3 


S 

.g 




G 
ri 


■4-9 
G 

ri 


£ 


o 
Jjj 


ri 

o_ 


G 


& 


O 

a> 


G 
ri 


ri 


G 
o 


o 

1 


3 
1 


O 




CJ 




w 






O 




















G 


O 




s 


CJ 


ri 

Q 


G 
O 


G 


>-. 


a 


rt 


G 



T3 


'G 


a 


ri 


G 


ri 


ri 




o 


& 


BO. 


Cu 


G-, 


o 


ri 

p. 


> 


o 


o 


3 


s 


SG 


o 


S3 


J 


O 


3 





















ES 
























rt 
























H3 
























<-> 








'ri 












G 




G 
ri 

03 

ri 








T3 

G 
ri 




TS" 


-G 






"G 




0-. 










G 
cd 


G 
ri 






G 
o 


"ri 


G 


G 
"rt 


3 



>-, 


^ 


o, 


ts 


t=~. 


fc» 




o 


Pi 


rt 


p> 


CI 


ta 


HO 


t: ! 


ta 


tJ 


^ 


. 












Q 


G 

rt 






G 


G 

o 


G 


a 


a 


rt 


s 


s 


























£4 


u 


o 


Q 


U 


o 


Pj 


80 


w 


O 


BS 


OB 



he ho ? 



G .tS- G G GO 
•G -S 'G O O G 



o 






























00 


.—) 


-M 


CO 


CO «** 


to 


o en 


c? 


-h 


^ 


CO O 


no oi 


on 


m 


CO 


c-* 


co 


CO 


CO 


CO CO 


CO 


•*# CO 


T* 


-^ 


Tj< rj< 


CO CO 


0Q 


CO 


CO 


o 
en 


i— i 


CO 


CO 


o to 


CO 


rf» -tf 


to 


CO 


m 


00 CJ 


»-l o 


BD 


o 


CO 


Qi 


CO 


CO 


CO 


Tt< CO 


CO 


«* T)H 


Ttf 


?* 


T* 


■«* rj< 


T* ^J< 


CO 


tjl 


CO 





OOKCTtOO^nirJitO 
OJ(MCOCOCOCOCOCOCO 



n^iofo^ooooH'HNn'jjtiowt'OoC) 

CN<M(M<MCJ<M<MC0COPQ 






396 METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 



t 



a 
o 






O 

2 


TS 


Hi 


"A 


"3 


a 

rt 




CD 

C 


a 


B 

9 


o 


3 
Efi 


9 

05 



i -2 -2 % o o 



t^wOoo^tn^-^rtj^SS • w J^ rt £►>- 

bjoo g -g ri ^h g s^^^Sti^^SfliJ^ 



'i 






































s 






































ja 













































































5 


a 




































te 


ri 




































-a 


t- 




fr 














c 


>-, 


















c 


s 

O 

T3 
[7! 


• 

00 

T3 


o 

•A 

PS 














<yj 

rt 
o 

Si 


| 
O 
G3 


n 








3 


9 


























O 












rt 




09 

O 

5 


t>i 




rt 


^ 


'A 


fc-, 


£ 


£, 


a 

ri 


ill 

rt 


s 


^ 






£> 


te, 


>> 


fr 


T3 






T3 


T5 


T3 


T3 


T-i 


B9 






^ 






tj 


r o 




S 


a 




a 


9 


9 


a 


a 


rt 


rt 


s 


9 


rt 


rt 






a 


9 




o 






<~ 







n 






03 


o 






o 


rt 


o 


o 








s 






























*j 


U 


•"" 


a 


CJ 


a 


o 


o 


Pj 


O 


w 





o 


O 


o 


Oh 


o 


o 




-* 


ro 


rr, 


o 


O 


m 


OS 




ca 


CT 


o 


so 


to 


to 


t# 


O? 


CO 


<-> 


C! 


rt 


CO 


CO 


-^ 


T* 


«3 


-^ 


U3 


~ -1 


*# 


•5 


CO 


CO 


rt 


CO 


CO 


CO 


"* 





<-> 


-H 


CO 


CO 


c> 


-* 


r- 


o 


T* 


O? 


on 


Ol 


oo 


c~> 


c? 


to 


art 


CO 


CS( 


CO 


CO 


-^ 


■<* 


<* 


^ 


■«* 


o 


UO 


LO 


"<* 


-^ 


"<* 


-$ 


"tf 


w 


CO 


CO 


^ 





m 


rfi 


r» 


-H 


r- 


o 


rr. 


CO 


o 


CI 


a 


r> 


ep 


to 


m 


{!?> 


CO 


on 


C* 


CO 


CO 


CO 


CO 


co 


■^ 


CO 


"# 


■*# 


CO 


CO 


CO 


©1 


C> 


a 


CO 


G7 


OJ 



mm oa 



METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 397 



























T3 






































3 






































ri 






>. 
















on 






















•"D 
















■a 




















3 
O 
















o 
























































o 


































r, 












a 

ri 








09 

s 

o 
w 






ri 

o 






BO 




3 

T3 


3 
3. 

a 
fs 




13 
3 

u 


ri 

03 

13 




fr 

T3 






































BO 








£ 


TJ 


H3 


i 

o 
o 

S3 






fe 




-3 


3 


£ 


>* 






ja 


g 


n 


fl 






3 


3 














o 


o 








ft 

0) 


3 
B9 


3 




.2 


o 
13 


13 


•~> 




09 

a 


ss 


tn 

O 




12 


ri 

3 


£ 


. 


r 3o 

3 


1 

o 




o 


3 


.5 


.5 


C2 




0) 


s 

o 


.5 
"3 


c 


a 


^3 

fcD 


CJ 


n 
o 


ad 

o 


O 

Si 

^3 




1—1 


" 




so 




«j 










S-l 






~ 






o 





3 3 T3 T3 

rt ri 3 3 

* . . o o 

r o r a r a , -aT3T3 w w 
33333333 

o e s o o "o 5 3 

















0) 
































o 
































^J 
















o 
















13 

o 




tS 












00 




3 












t-t 




s 


3 

3 








ri 

V 


3 

ri 




fan 


W 








a 




c 


T3 








1 


•« 




£ 


3 
ri 






fcJD 


fail 

3 


w 

o 




o 

s 

3 


>l 


V* 




'5 


3 


* 




3 

a 


13 




3 

s 


3 

s 


15 






rt 


>■, 


!>, 


IS 


b 


is 


3 


■fafi 


l 


-a 
3 
O 


3 
O 


'3 
3 
O 




■-« 


3 


3- 


3 


CJ 


o 


CJ 


33 



^ ^ 



cr 






































to 


co 


"-,< 


on 


o 


CO 


on 


(-5 


o> 


a 


CO 


to 


CO 


on 


nn 


o 




Of 


00 


^ 


-<* 


iO 


IQ 


to 


Ui 


to 


to 


CO 


CO 


UO 


^ 


7* 


■<* 


"* 


w 


^< 


»o 


»o 



PHt-t(MCO'>*>o«ot'Ooa>o^-ic^corj<iocoi-oo erj 

.«(( ,-<r-l!-(,_lpHfH»Hr-l!-<i-( 

S «j t» 



398 METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 











a 








































a 




















s 

o 

CO 

1 










o 
43 




















BO 


fr 


fr 










en 

n3 






od 


13 


H3 


1^ 




o 




a 






D 


O 

^3 


2 

o 
"3 




I 

•-a 




13 

a 






3 


r-n 


bn 


1 . 










t-, 








3 




1 


o 






^ 




« 


o 


o 


c 


"3 


c+-. 


ri 


>> 
o 




o 


•9 


T3 

C 


<-> 


+-> 




— 


o 


U 


> 




— i 








•5 g S 73 £ 73 'S o. 









5 
o 






a 




'id 


lx 










O 




ed 
B 












00 


o 

— 


ed 

o 


73 

I 




o 


73 










ed 




0) 

73 




* 




































o 










_C 


1 


m 
a 




rt 



















-(-J 








>. 


^> 


>-, 


tin 


fc*» 


>; 


S3 

to 
B 
ed 


>1 


>1 


>M 


£ 


£ 


t>n 




a 


o 








r-2 


TJ 


13 




-3 


— 


■d 


13 


T3 


'U 










a 


ed 


ed 


a 


s 


a 


-i 


c 


3 


a 


3 


2 




a 


a 


— 


ri 


a 




o 


O 


o 


c 


c 


bO 





O 


o 


o 


o 






















































u 


CJ 


a 


u 


— 


o 


o 


CJ 


o 


o 


o 





o 


o 


t-, 


!~ 


«-. 


a 

en 


r- 


CO 


CO. 


an 


kfl 


r.o 


CO 


-H 


c? 


CO 


t^ 


to 


m 


no 


i M 


CO 


m 


^ 


*# 


o 


«s 


-^ 


-<* 


o 


o 


KJ 


U~J 


kfl 


o 


to 


>o 


^ 


-^ 


lO 


o 


Tf 


*o 


o 
to 


en 


o 


l« 


-* 


eo 


T# 


TP 


r? 


en 


O 


i-o 


CO 


c? 


^ 


o 


o 


CO 


CD 


-eji 


CO 


EO 


U3 


U3 


co 


CD 


CO 


eq 


w 


CO 


CO 


lO 


LO 


«a 


eo 


CO 


«a 


U? 



OtO^iflMOOrfCOtDrjlOO 



o--tc>?cO'*(Mcoi^ooc7jcoi-tS»-iC^co^ir3tor^ 



METEOEOLOGICAL TABLE. 399 










^j R* 
























R 

•3 












R =-" 




































3 o 
























TJ 












to c— ; 














no 


& 

T3 








s 

zn 


. 






t» 

a 

a 
2 


B 

S-. 
C 

o 


^ 'So 

« S 

R* J3 

5 .g 

O rf 


CO 

•- 

O 
> 


a 

* 

o 


a 


jj 


a 
'5 


R 
O 


b 


o 

Cm 

c 

05 

O 

s 


R 

o 


ed 


ad 

09 


R 
o 

'o 

bfl 

c 
*>> 


1 

_2 
C 




-a 
R 
o 

© 




la 


OQ »-, 


CO 


DO 


o 






o 


** 


— 


a, 


o 


q=i 


Cd 


a 


so 






r-. r-J 



ed 



c 



I -I 1 " § I -I § -I -I & o I S 8 1 I § 

o g S -3 -s S-322 >o g o aa§ S 



s 



o 

00 if5 M t)i O O 
T* ^ ^ "3« ■"* "3< 



400 



METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 



bJD - 

n s 

o 5 



s s 



o ,-5 ,-=; 



fl 
►» 






O i 



b a 



r^ ^J O 



S 3 



H o o 



-a 

c 

09 

2 









b S a 

> M £ 



TD r O H3 






<£> © © t~ i- O CO iO 



© t^ © 

u >o (O 



o 

© (M tH 
© Ci © 


•^ 


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00 O O H W « -* 



03 



LANGUAGES. 



401 



VOCABULARY OF INDIAN LANGUAGES. 



Several gentlemen of erudition, who have professedly in- 
vestigated the languages of the American Indians, have giv- 
en it as their opinion, that they are all traceable to four 
roots. But I am confident, from the opportunities I have 
had to examine the languages of many different nations, that 
the opinion is entirely unfounded. The following vocabu- 
laries are given as specimens of difference in the languages 
of four nations in Oregon. The languages of other nations 
are equally distinct. 





NEZ PERCE LANGUAGE. 


glish. 


Indian. 


God, 


hemakis Tota 


Spirit, 


koonapa. 


Father, 


tota. 


Man, 


hama. 


Woman, 


iat. 


Mother, 


peka. 


Child, 


meaits. 


Brother, 


uskeep. 


Sister. 


axsip. 


Husband, 


hama. 


Wife, 


waipna. 


I, 


en. 


Thou, 


em. 



35 



402 





NEZ PERCE. 


He, 


emim. 


She, 


aiat. 


It, 


ke. 


They, 


elahne tetokan. 


People, 


tetokan. 


Heaven, 


accompenaka. 


Earth, 


waitush. 


Water, 


coos. 


Fire, 


aula. 


Snow, 


maika. 


Rain, 


waikit. 


Wood, 


haitsu. 


Grass, 


pax. 


Hell or bad spirit, 


koonapa kapseish 


Horse, 


shecum. 


White Bear, 


hahats. 


Black Bear, 


eakat. 


Beaver, 


taxpull. 


Otter, 


collas. 


Deer, 


enishnim. 


Moose, 


taissheep. 


Buffalo, 


cocoil. 


Wolf, 


siyah. 


Salmon, 


natso. 


Trout, 


wowalthum. 


Gun, 


temoon. 


Powder, 


popokes. 


Ball, 


saip. 


Stone, 


pishwa. 


What is that ? 


etu ke. 


Who is that ? 


eshe ke. 


There, 


koone. 





NEZ PERCE. 


Here, 


kene 


Where, 


mene. 


When, 


mowwa. 


How many ? 


moits. 


None, 


sTou. 


All, 


oekalla. 


Plenty, 


elahne. 


Near by, 


keemta. 


Great way off,. 


wyat. 


This road. 


iskit* 


Stop, 


collo. 


Go, 


coetuc, 


Run, 


willaikit. 


Go fast, 


haum teets* 


Stop here, 


collo kene. 


Encamp, 


wispeix. 


Sleep, 


penemeeko. 


Eat, 


hipsh. 


I hear, 


en amachish. 


You hear, 


em amachish. 


I understand, 


en amacus. 


Come, 


c5me. 


I know, 


en soko. 


You know,. 


em soko. 


He knows, 


emim soko. 


They know, 


tetokan soko. 


T do not know,. 


waiitu en soko 


Talk, 


tumtein. 


Ride, 


wyatcus. 


Wait,. 


coats. 


Swim, 


shuway. 


Love, 


aitou. . 



403 



404 





NEZ PERCE. 


Hate, 


waiitu aitou. 


Kill, 


wapseou. 


Alive, 


waikus. 


Make, 


ainees. 


Take, 


enip. 


Carry, 


enip coeta. 


Give, 


enahanim. 


Pay, 


tumaitcus. 


Make fire, 


ailix. 


Worship, 


tolla poosa. 


Smoke, 


keieta 


Sun, moon, 


hasumtooks. 


Prairie, 


paix. 


Mountain, 


mashum. 


Friend, 


sextua. 


Chief, 


meohot. 


Nez Perce, 


numepo. 


Flathead, 


sailep. 


Black foot, 


quasne. 


Bonnax, 


tuelca. 


American, 


sueapo. 


Indian, 


tete teluit. 


Frenchman, 


allima. 


Head, 


hooshus. 


Hair, 


hookoo. 


Arm, 


artum. 


Leg, 


waiu. 


Foot, 


akooa. 


Cloth, 


tahea. 


Saddle, 


supen sapoos 


Pack, 


supen saps. 


Beads, 


collowin. 



NEZ PERCE — KLICATAT. 



405 



Good, 

Bad, 

No, 

Yes, 

Great, 

Small, 

Sick, 

Well, 

To-day, 

Yesterday, 

Once more, 

White, 

Black, 

Red, 

Vermilion, 

Paint, 

1 nox. 

2 lapeet. 

3 metait. 

4 peelep. 

5 pahut. 

6 elaix. 

7 quoenapt. 

8 wemuttut. 

9 quoies. 

VOCABULARY OF THE 
COUNTRY 

English. 
God, 

Evil spirit, 
Sun, 
Moon, 



tois. 

kapseis. 

waiitu. 

ai. 

hemakis. 

coots. 

comitsa. 

penamina. 

tax. 

watish. 

nox emaka. 

hihi. 

cinmo cimmeo. 

ilpelp. 

ailish. 

penasuet. 

10 poetumpt. 

11 nox tit. 

12 lapeet tit. 
20 laap tit. 
30 metaip tit. 
40 pelap tit. 
50 pahap tit. 

100 pooetap tit. 

KLICATAT NATION WHO INHABIT THE 
NORTH OF THE CASCADES. 

Indian. 
Meyoh. 
melah. 
an. 
ulhigh'. 



406 





KLICATAT. 


Stars, 


kashlo. 


Fire, 


lokkowouks. 


Earth, 


te 'tsum. 


Water, 


chow wass. 


Stone, 


'p's swah. 


Wood, 


il quas. 


House, 


enneet. 


Bread, 


shappleel. 


Fish. 


t'kuinnat. 


Deer, 


owinnat. 


Bird, 


'hat 'hot. 


Cow, 


moos moos stun. 


Horse, 


kosee. 


Dog, 


kosikkosee. 


Boat, 


quassas. 


Man, 


,wince. 


Woman, 


iyet. 


Girl, 


p'teeniks. 


Boy, 


ass wan. 


Fingers, 


pahhahtopat. 


Foot, 


wattekas. 


Toe, 


owhunghe. 


Tongue, 


melleese. 


Ear, 


misshu (plu.) pesahmisshu 


Mouth, 


mettolla'hhow. 


Lip, 


um, (plu.) pesah um. 


Black, 


chemook. 


White, 


pillas. 


Green, 


lahm't. 


Yellow, 


penahkunnootowass. 


Red, 


klutsah. 


Good, 


seyah. 





KLICATAT. 


Bad, 


chilooeet. 


High, 


'quaahme. 


Low, 


metee. 


Many 5 


hugh'lak. 


Few, 


millah. 


Little, 


iksiks. 


Who? 


sindewah. 


What? 


sinmisswah. 


Knife, 


hahbittelme. 


Bow, 


toominpas. 


Arrow, 


kiasso. 


Gun, 


toowinpas. 


Sea, 


attackas. 


River, 


wannah 


Lake, 


wattum. 


Mountain, 


'ke'h. 


Hill, 


pussque. 


Valley, 


nkop. 


Plain, . 


tak. 


Here, 


itche. 


There, 


ekkone. 


Near, 


'tsahpah. 


Far off, 


weat'tpah. 


Night. 


e tset. 


Day, 


echoosah. 


Where, 


minnan. 


When, 


mittach. 


I walk, 


inikwenahsah. 


I talk, 


sinewesah. 


None, 


chahow. 


I know, 


assook sah. 


I have known, 


mewe sah sooh sah 



407 



408 



i 


KLICATAT. 


I see, 


enahukheno sah 


I hear, 


innasick sah. 


I taste. 


quatas sah. 


I smell, 


annookse sah. 


I, 


sah. 


Thou, 


imk c . 


He, 


equak. 


She, 


equakiik. 


Head, 


chlamtukh. 


Eye, 


tats'k. 


Back, 


koopkoop. 


Come, 


winnum. 


Go, 


winnak. 


Give, 


annik. 


Large, 


mche. 


Smaller, 


mimche. 


Smallest, 


ooksooks. 


Beauty, 


seeghewah. 


All, 


k'lhweek. 


True, 


chawnumsisk. 


False, 


t'sis. 


Chief, 


kooMtup. 


Common men, 


wallumteen. 


My father, 


hahtootas. 


My mother, 


naheclas. 


Elder brother, 


nahnahnas. 


Younger brother, 


incoks. 


Sister, 


inchats. 


Husband, 


inman. 


Yes, 


deh. 


No, 


waht. 


Beaver, 


wispus. 



KLICATAT CALAPOOA . 



409 



Rabbit, 


sin we. 


Cat, 


wasswass. 


Wolf, 


enahte. 


Bear, 


'hollees. 


Otter, 


nooksi. 


Laziness, 


ilkkah. 


Sleep, 


'tsotah. 


Soft, 


uquatuquat 


Strength, 


h'too. 


Swan, 


wahhalow. 


Goat, 


powyanin. 


Beads, 


k'pput. 


Cold, 


'tsoisah. 


Hard, 


k'ttet'k. 


1 lab's, 


12 neep'twappena, 


2 neep't, 


13 mettaptwappena. 


3 mettapt', 


20 neeptit, 


4 peneep't, 


30 mettaptit, 


5 pahhat, 


40 peneeptit, 


6 pHuhninis, 


50 pahliaptit, 


7 tooskas, 


60 p'tuhninsaptit, 


8 pahhahhemaht, 


70 tooskahslptit, 


9 'csawlawsimkah, 


80 pahhahtusap'tit, 


10 hotem, 


90 'tsaulochsaptit, 


11 lah'swappena, 


100 potemtit. 


VOCABULARY OF THE CALAPOOA NATION. 


God, 


'ntsompate. 


Heaven, 


ahlupklooah. 


Evil Spirit, 


ehwakehe. 


Hell, 


owievenah. 


Sun, 


'npeun. 


Moon, 


'ntope. 



36 



410 





CALAPOOA. 


Stars, 


'ntsalowah. 


Fire, 


ummi. 


Earth, 


umpullo. 


Wind, 


c ntolouh. 


Water, 


'mpahke. 


Wood, 


owattuk. 


Stone, 


'ntaugh. 


Bone, 


'ntsa. 


House, 


ummi*. 


Bread, 


shappleel. 


Fish, 


mtumuak. 


Deer, 


ammoke'. 


Elk, 


'ntokah. 


Bird, 


noknok. 


Horse, 


kuetan. 


Cow, 


moosmoos. 


Dog, 


'n'tul. 


Boat, 


f mpaw. 


Man, 


'noihee. 


Woman, 


ehwahktsut. 


Boy, 


ehwahpyah. 


Girl, 


'mpeena. 


I, 


tsa. 


Thou, 


mah. 


He, 


annoihe. 


She, 


ahwahkkotsut, 


My father, 


hum nee. 


Your father, 


makkan nee. 


My mother, 


sin nee. 


Elder brother, 


tah. 


Sister, 


shetup. 


Husband, 


tahwahke. 



Wife, 


tahwahke. 


Yes, 


aw. 


No, 


kussowe. 


Head, 


unquah. 


Mouth, 


tinte. 


Chin, 


<tlak- 


Teeth, 


tinte. 


Arm, 


t'ntooque. 


Hand, 


t'lakquah. 


Finger, 


taw'nah. 


Foot, 


teuofoh. 


Ear, 


toandunkahtah 


Black, 


mo f . 


White, 


mow'. 


Blue, 


'mpulunk. 


Green, 


pitchish. 


Red, 


'tselow. 


Good, 


misso. 


Bad, 


kaskah. 


High, 


tshamayunk. 


Low, 


wallah. 


Many, 


milloe. 


Few, 


'mponuk. 


Large, 


pellah. 


Small, 


etoo. 


Who, 


me'eh. 


What, 


annikkee. 


Knife, 


'nkamistik. 


Bow, 


unchin. 


Arrow, 


un'owsuk. 


Gun, 


sukwallahlah. 


Sea, 


mullak. 



411 



412 





CALAPOOA. 


River, 


'ntsok. 


Lake, 


wassetnummeke 


Mountain, 


peotahmefook. 


Valley, 


wallah. 


Night, 


mooyoo. 


Day, 


'mpeyon. 


Here, 


m'hash. 


There, 


pie fan. 


Near, 


'mchillah. 


Far off, 


m'lokkio. 


Where, 


mutchoo. 


When, 


tahnondeh. 


To talk, 


tanuk. 


To walk. 


owallowah. 


None, 


mwa. 


I see, 


chats'onhot'n. 


Beaver, 


'nkipeah. 


All, 


teloh. 


Chief, 


'ntsombeek. 


Common men, 


anwoekee. 


Come, 


mahek. 


Go, 


tattea. 


Give, 


mahaque. 


Swan,. 


mow. 


Rabbit, 


umpon. 


Wolf, 


molent. 


Bear, 


'rarao, 


Sleep, 


towi. 


Hard, 


'p'tsakkolloo. 


Soft, 


'mput'l. 


Boil, 


liplip. 


1 towneh, 


10 teeneefeahah, 





CALAPOOA CHENOOK. A 


2 kamah, 


11 teenefeahpetownah, 


3 peshin, 


12 teenefeahpekamah, 


4 tohwah, 


20 keefotenefeah, 


5 wul, 


30 p'shintenefeah, 


6 taffo, 


40 tohwatenefeah, 


7 p'sinmewe 


, 50 wultenefeah, 


8 ke'mewe, 


100 tenefeah, 


9 'quisteh, 


1000 tumpeah. 


VOCABULARY 


OF THE CHENOOK LANGUAGE AS SPOKEN 




ABOUT FORT VANCOUVER. 


God, 


Cannum. 


Heaven, 


coosah. 


Earth, 


iliaha. 


Fire, 


olaptska. 


Water, 


isuck. 


Sea, 


wecoma. 


River, 


ibolt. 


Sun, 


otlah. 


Moon, 


ootleum. 


Evil spirit, 


skokoom. 


Hell, 


skokoom. 


Boat, 


conim. 


Knife, 


opitsah. 


Gun f 


sucwallal. 


Powder, 


poolalla. 


Ball, 


colietan. 


Air, 


kummataz. 


I, 


nika. ! 


'Thou, 


mika. 


He, 


yahkah. 


She, 


yahkah. 


ft or them, 


klaska. 



413 



414 





CHENOOK. 


Chief, 


tie. 


Boy, 


kaskas. 


Girl, 


l'kpho. 


Sister, 


ahts. 


Father, 


tilecummama. 


Mother, 


st'llmama. 


People, 


tilecum. 


Yes, 


ah, or aha. 


No, 


wayick, or wake 


Good, 


close. 


Bad, 


wake close. 

■ 


Very bad, 


mestsa. 


Large, 


hias. 


Small, 


tunas. 


Far, 


sia. 


Little way, 


tunas sia. 


Great way, 


hias sia. 


To go fast, 


clatua hiuc. 


Not fast, 


wake hiuc. 


Black, 


klaait. 


White, 


t'koop. 


Blue, 


spock. 


Red, 


pelpil. 


Green, 


peteish. 


High, 


saghalle. 


Low, 


kekulle. 


Now, 


witka. 


Much, 


oghooway. 


Little, 


tunas. 


Who, 


'tkaksta. 


What, 


ikta. 


Mountain, 


saghalle illaha. 



CHENOOK. 



415 



Valley, 

Where, 

Here, 

Night, 

None, 

Bear, 

Beaver, 

Fox, 

Wolf, 

Deer, 

Horse, .. 

Cow, 

Dog, 

Salmon, 

Bird, 

Speak, 

I speak, 

Thou speakest, 

He speaks, 

They speak, 

Make, 

I make, 

Thou makest, 

He makes, 

They make, 

Come, 

Perhaps, or I do not know- 
Understand, 

I understand, 

Now I understand, 

Sleep, 

I have, or it is with me, 



kekulle illaha. 

can. 

ookook. 

pollakle. 

haloo. 

siano. 

eena. 

tiskowkow. 

leelo. 

moueech. 

kuetan. 

moosmoos. 

kamux. 

quanagh. 

kallakalla. 

wawa. 

nica wawa. 

mica wawa. 

yakka wawa. 

klaska wawa. 

mammook. 

nica mammook. 

mica mammook. 

yakka mammook. 

klaska mammook. 

chawko. 

clunas. 

cumetax. 

nica cumetax. 

alta nica cumetax. 

moosom . 

mitlit nica. 



416 



6 


CHENOOK. 


I walk, 


nica clatuwa. 


Long ago, 


aunacotta. 


See, 


noneneech. 


Eat, 


mucamuc. 


1 eght, 


8 stoghtkin, 


2 moxt, 


9 quiitz, 


3 none, 


10 taughlelum, 


4 'lakit, 


30 moxttaghlelum, 


5 quinum, 


40 'lakittaghlelum, 


6 tohhum, 


100 taughlelum tau 


7 sinnamox, 





The Philologist, by examining the specimens of the lan- 
guages in the foregoing vocabularies, will notice how en- 
tirely distinct they are from each other, and may form his 
own opinions in regard to their origin. The languages of 
other Indian nations are equally distinct. The use of the 
commas, as in 'ke'-h, mountain; 'noihee, man; is designed 
to designate a gutteral sound, wholly inarticulate. 



